Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp
May 15, 2009 at 11:11 PM Post #3,166 of 7,277
I've been reading that the turn-on thump was fairly quiet, and hardly noticeable in some people's amplifiers.
I've been using my ssmh, completed for a couple days and the turn-on/off thump is quite loud. Not enough to damage my headphones, but enough, that it makes me uncomfortable leaving several hundred dollar headphones plugged in.

I'm using 220uf at the output, and 180uf power caps. Is the fact that the output caps are larger than the power caps a problem?
It also seems that it would be near impossible to replace the filter caps without disassembling the entire amp. Could I add another 200uf or so filter cap parallel to c1?
Currently, I'm getting 4 consecutive thumps at turn-on .. the first and third thump louder than the second and fourth.
 
May 15, 2009 at 11:25 PM Post #3,167 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesL /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've been reading that the turn-on thump was fairly quiet, and hardly noticeable in some people's amplifiers.
I've been using my ssmh, completed for a couple days and the turn-on/off thump is quite loud. Not enough to damage my headphones, but enough, that it makes me uncomfortable leaving several hundred dollar headphones plugged in.

I'm using 220uf at the output, and 180uf power caps. Is the fact that the output caps are larger than the power caps a problem?
It also seems that it would be near impossible to replace the filter caps without disassembling the entire amp. Could I add another 200uf or so filter cap parallel to c1?
Currently, I'm getting 4 consecutive thumps at turn-on .. the first and third thump louder than the second and fourth.



There's a couple of things going on here.

First, turn-on thump is unavoidable - but not 4 consecutive ones. What you're experiencing is the turn-on "stutter" caused by the combination of too-small power caps and the switching power supply. Through trial and error, we've found that at least 680uf for the power caps will stop the stutter.

Note, however, that you will still get a single, turn-on thump. There are two divergent schools of thought - most of our headphone amps can easily tolerate several volts of offset with no harm ... or never, ever plug your headphones in before the amp is turned on and the tubes are warmed up.
wink.gif
wink.gif


Second, turn-off thump is almost strictly a function of capacitance in the amp and the connected load. The more capacitance, the greater the turn-off thump. Conversely, the higher the connected load, the less the turn-off thump. Note, however, that turn-off thump is much, much less severe in offset voltage than the turn-on thump.

Finally, yes - you can parallel caps and the capacitance is additive in that case.
 
May 16, 2009 at 11:08 AM Post #3,168 of 7,277
For what it's worth I've never experianced even the slightest thump on power up or down and my primary set of cans are 32 ohm senns. At power on the tubes begin to glow and a just audible hum slowly rises. I followed the bom for the options schematic except I used 1000uF caps for C1, C6 and at 200v they're as tall as the heatsinks. Haven't a clue if this makes the difference or not but it works in my build. I did p2p on perfboard wired with Cat5 cable.

http://bellsouthpwp2.net/k/a/karlet/BigCaps1.jpg
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/k/a/karlet/BigCaps2.jpg -cased up


Larry the Tube Guy says: Getter Done
 
May 17, 2009 at 1:17 AM Post #3,170 of 7,277
Sweet, would you be able to sell these cases, even if I was going to build my own p2p version?
 
May 17, 2009 at 1:31 AM Post #3,171 of 7,277
The idea is to sell them to everyone. I think we may do that first - guarantee that everyone who purchases one will get a board and tubes, for instance ... or something like that ... assuming Hammond's price works out.
 
May 17, 2009 at 2:28 PM Post #3,172 of 7,277
Hello! I'm beginner in electronics, so here are a few appropriate questions:
Is there any good pcb layout available?
I found this one:
SS-1.png

but as I read it wasn't working very well. And it's made from this "upgraded" schematic:
starvi1optionsgr6.jpg

Does it make any difference (good)?

I have already built working p2p SS but it's a very big mess inside the case, weak wiring isolation and problems with grounding.

Do I have to connect all the grounding points to one place that connects to chassis?
 
May 17, 2009 at 6:58 PM Post #3,173 of 7,277
The upgraded schematic is better in a few ways so it's worth doing as it's an evolution over time from the original as new things were discovered to help the amp in more varied circumstances.

The ground. You can take the psu input ground as a base to attach all other ground points to, whether it's the case of just a strip. They should all go to one common ground.
 
May 19, 2009 at 2:19 AM Post #3,176 of 7,277
In case this could help someone with the build:

So when you were saying put 50k input resistors on my starving student, were you referring to doing that with a 10k pot or a 50k pot?

Also, I've seen people's upgraded schematics and BOMs that use bypass caps. Are these just caps placed in parallel to the cap that is already there? Like a .22 parallel to c3 and c5, or are they placed befor c3 and c5 and connect to ground? What exactly do these bypass caps do and what capacitors would these be used for?
Essentially, the input resistors push the high gain inherent in the SSMH's tubes into the last portion of resistance represented by the pot. Let's say you use a 10K pot and 40K input resistance. The total resistance seen by the source feeding the amp would be 50K. However, all volume control would occur in the last 10K of that 50K. This is acceptable for almost all loads using the SSMH, because the basic gain provided by the tubes is 19, whereas typical headphone amp gains range from a low of about 2 to a maximum of 11, in the case of a basic CMoy used to power a 300ohm Senn.

Using a 50K pot with a 50K resistor results in a total of 100K seen by the load, but only the last half of the resistance is variable by the pot. Personally - after trying both - I think the 10K and ~40K input resistance is the best combination.

As for bypass capacitors - electrolytics are slow, lack detail, and often sound outright bad when used directly in the signal path. Directly in the signal path, the small film bypass may actually reach down to 1K and below in the frequencies, so that the electrolytic is essentially passing mid-bass and bass, only. It's actually more complicated than this really, because the speed, ESR, etc. all roll into the combination. There's very little data regarding cap bypassing - it's mostly an artistic type thing, learned through experience. Some cap combinations sound awful, others surprisingly good. Wima's are kind of traditional and have a great track record of bypassing caps - in the signal path and without. So, think of them of as kind of a booster on the large electrolytics, allowing them to operate through the entire frequency scale, without coloration and with plenty of speed and sparkle in the highs and smooth mids. Of course, the film cap all by itself would be the best choice, but very few are in sizes of the 470uf or 680uf as used in the SSMH. If you can even find film caps in that rating, they'd probably each be bigger than the entire amp. So, there you are.

P.S. the film bypasses are in parallel - across the leads of the electrolytic, iow.
Also, all my parts get here tomorrow I think!!
Building starts when UPS arrives
L3000.gif


--And if someone could elaborate a little bit on the bypass caps, exactly what are they doing in the circuit, like what parts of the signal and why flow into the bypass caps vs the electrolytics, and how do you determine the value of the bypass caps? Thanks
atsmile.gif
 
May 19, 2009 at 4:05 AM Post #3,177 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by cms5423 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
In case this could help someone with the build:

So when you were saying put 50k input resistors on my starving student, were you referring to doing that with a 10k pot or a 50k pot?

Also, I've seen people's upgraded schematics and BOMs that use bypass caps. Are these just caps placed in parallel to the cap that is already there? Like a .22 parallel to c3 and c5, or are they placed befor c3 and c5 and connect to ground? What exactly do these bypass caps do and what capacitors would these be used for?
Essentially, the input resistors push the high gain inherent in the SSMH's tubes into the last portion of resistance represented by the pot. Let's say you use a 10K pot and 40K input resistance. The total resistance seen by the source feeding the amp would be 50K. However, all volume control would occur in the last 10K of that 50K. This is acceptable for almost all loads using the SSMH, because the basic gain provided by the tubes is 19, whereas typical headphone amp gains range from a low of about 2 to a maximum of 11, in the case of a basic CMoy used to power a 300ohm Senn.

Using a 50K pot with a 50K resistor results in a total of 100K seen by the load, but only the last half of the resistance is variable by the pot. Personally - after trying both - I think the 10K and ~40K input resistance is the best combination.

As for bypass capacitors - electrolytics are slow, lack detail, and often sound outright bad when used directly in the signal path. Directly in the signal path, the small film bypass may actually reach down to 1K and below in the frequencies, so that the electrolytic is essentially passing mid-bass and bass, only. It's actually more complicated than this really, because the speed, ESR, etc. all roll into the combination. There's very little data regarding cap bypassing - it's mostly an artistic type thing, learned through experience. Some cap combinations sound awful, others surprisingly good. Wima's are kind of traditional and have a great track record of bypassing caps - in the signal path and without. So, think of them of as kind of a booster on the large electrolytics, allowing them to operate through the entire frequency scale, without coloration and with plenty of speed and sparkle in the highs and smooth mids. Of course, the film cap all by itself would be the best choice, but very few are in sizes of the 470uf or 680uf as used in the SSMH. If you can even find film caps in that rating, they'd probably each be bigger than the entire amp. So, there you are.

P.S. the film bypasses are in parallel - across the leads of the electrolytic, iow.
Also, all my parts get here tomorrow I think!!
Building starts when UPS arrives
L3000.gif


--And if someone could elaborate a little bit on the bypass caps, exactly what are they doing in the circuit, like what parts of the signal and why flow into the bypass caps vs the electrolytics, and how do you determine the value of the bypass caps? Thanks
atsmile.gif



-SIGH- Thanks for posting this, but I would've thought my answer up there was enough.
wink.gif
As I stated, there is no science regarding how bypass caps work. You can attempt to run the corner frequency equation on the output coupling arrangement, for instance, but it's an exercise in futility:

Let's say we have a 300ohm Senn as the load -
0.22uf has a -3dB value at 2411 Hz.
So, you might say that the film cap will pass most of the music to the Senns until it gets to 2KHz and below, then the electrolytic takes over.

However, let's say we have a 32ohm Grado as the load -
0.22uf has a -3dB value at 22,607 Hz.
So, you might say that the film cap is useless for Grado's because it will never predominate below audible frequencies.

Unfortunately, we know this is not true. The speed of the film cap comes into play. It may interact with the music signal much more quickly than the electrolytic, regardless of the cutoff frequency for each cap. However, this is highly variable and depends on the specific film cap and the specific electrolytic. Moreover, there's just as much reason to expect the combination of electrolytic and film cap to act as a single 470.22uf, not as separate caps. Yet, you can put a Black Gate in there (assuming voltage ratings are sufficient) and it will seem as if the Wima never adds anything to the equation.

There is little predictably to any combination except that some bypasses seem to work with more regularity than others. The Wima is one of those. Others may end up sounding lousy. The Wima itself can sound lousy in some scenarios - only trial and error apply.

The same can be said for sizing the bypass. One rule-of-thumb that's sometimes quoted is 10% of the size of the electrolytic. This doesn't hold in the larger sizes, however, otherwise we'd be talking 47uf film caps on the output coupler and those are impractically large and expensive.

So how do we know any of this? Trial and error. In the case of the Starving Student, I can assure you that the latest additions by Dsavitsk have made this into a much better amp. I can specifically state that the BOM as it now stands - SSMH Bill Of Materials
using a combination of the DigiKey and Mouser components sounds better than any other SSMH I've built:
  1. 680uf 63V Panasonic FC's (short size)
  2. 470uf 63V Nichicon KW's as output couplers,
  3. Wima 0.22uf MKP10's as interstage couplers and output bypasses,
  4. 10K Alpha with 39K input resistors,
  5. 220uf 16V Muse ES cathode bypass caps
  6. Vishay-Dale resistors throughout.
This combination will be "chiseled in stone" as far as I'm concerned.
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It's far superior to the other prototype built with Muse FG's on the output and Stackpole carbon film resistors, and 50K pot with 50K input resistors. The other prototype, in turn, is far superior to the standard build with no bypasses, no input resistors, etc.
 
May 19, 2009 at 4:50 AM Post #3,178 of 7,277
BTW, Hammond came back with prices so cheap ... if we only get 50 people to purchase the cases, the total drill and punch price for every hole needed to build this amp will only result in less than $10 over the Mouser cost of the bare case alone (assuming a bit for shipping and Paypal costs). So, we are going to have a Group Buy for the cases if everyone is game. I'll announce the details soon. It will be a one-per person scenario and have a specific cutoff number - so that we can ensure that whoever buys a case gets tubes and a board. There is a 6 week lead time on the cases.

Buttoning this board up into the Hammond case is somewhat similar to a puzzle box, what with the center standoff of the top plate, and attaching the sinks on top with the MOSFETs underneath. Plus, the tube holes, headphone jack, and pot shaft are totally fixed by the PCB. This makes accurate drilling imperative. With the MOSFETs/heat sink situation critical, it also means that it's impossible to build the amp and have it operate without casing it up - no bare PCB and running it in a cardboard box, iow - it'll burn up. All of this means that the case is integral to building the SSMH PCB. So, if we can make this easier with a pre-punched case, all the better.
smily_headphones1.gif
smily_headphones1.gif


If someone thinks this is objectionable, let me know.
 
May 19, 2009 at 5:05 AM Post #3,180 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by royewest /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Sounds like a great plan, Tomb -- really looking forward to the production version coming together. Thanks for keeping with this.


Nice hearing from you again, Roy! Yes, sorry this has gone so slowly, but we're getting very close. The production version I finished recently with that parts spec I listed above is really something special - as good as I've heard anywhere near the price it takes to build one of these. As with most of Pete's stuff - really something special - and Dsavitsk's additions have taken it to a new level.
 

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