Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp
Jan 8, 2010 at 11:02 PM Post #4,441 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by UKToecutter /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hello

My first post on Head-Fi.

Great Project. I've actually read all 296 pages over the last few days (yeah, sad, I know).

Looking forward to the release of another batch of kits by Beezar.

TomB. When I order, can I have Ocean Green LED's please?

:)



Absolutely!! Just remember to note it in the Beezar invoice when the time comes.
wink.gif
 
Jan 9, 2010 at 2:39 AM Post #4,443 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by meme /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Just thought I'd post some pictures of my effort that I made over the Christmas holidays ~

This is my first go at any sort of DIY electronics, it's the Beezar kit in my own enclosure. I must say that it sounds pretty good, very impressed.

So, thanks to tomb & dsavitsk for putting this excellent kit out there!



VERY nice looking! What a clean build! Congratulations !

cheers!
 
Jan 10, 2010 at 8:19 PM Post #4,447 of 7,277
Jan 10, 2010 at 8:24 PM Post #4,448 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by duckbutter /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How does this amp compare in sound to the Hifiman EF2 form head-direct?
Head-Direct.com | YUIN



TomB has mentioned several time (most recently, two pages before this one) that he would prefer not to discuss comparisons between the SSMH and any other amps in this thread - mostly because it could appear to be a biased comparison and we don't want to put down any other amps. You would probably have better luck posting in the Amps sub-forum and telling them what you listen to and asking what the best amp would be for your application.
 
Jan 10, 2010 at 8:33 PM Post #4,449 of 7,277
Would it be possible to use a Pot similar to the one in the AMB mini^3 to act as a volume control and on/off. If so is there an example of exactly what I'd be looking for, I find pots are surprisingly complex!
 
Jan 10, 2010 at 8:49 PM Post #4,450 of 7,277
Yes, you can use a pot with an on/off switch. Of course, it wouldn't fit on the PCB, but if you're doing your own P2P build, go for it! I don't know any quality pots offhand that have an on/off switch besides the ALPS RK097 used in the Mini3, but I'm sure someone will have suggestions.
 
Jan 10, 2010 at 11:00 PM Post #4,451 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Juaquin /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, you can use a pot with an on/off switch. Of course, it wouldn't fit on the PCB, but if you're doing your own P2P build, go for it! I don't know any quality pots offhand that have an on/off switch besides the ALPS RK097 used in the Mini3, but I'm sure someone will have suggestions.


Yeah would indeed be for a P2P build so any recommendations would be fantastic!
 
Jan 11, 2010 at 12:34 AM Post #4,452 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Juaquin /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Quote:

Originally Posted by duckbutter
How does this amp compare in sound to the Hifiman EF2 form head-direct?
Head-Direct.com | YUIN

I was originally saving up to by an EF2, but since discovering this thread was wondering if it would be worth it to save a couple bucks and build one for myself.



TomB has mentioned several time (most recently, two pages before this one) that he would prefer not to discuss comparisons between the SSMH and any other amps in this thread - mostly because it could appear to be a biased comparison and we don't want to put down any other amps. You would probably have better luck posting in the Amps sub-forum and telling them what you listen to and asking what the best amp would be for your application.



Yes, Juaquin is correct. I'm probably unique in applying this discipline, but sorry - that's the way it is. Too many folk take advantage of Pete Millett's good heartedness in sharing designs and take advantage by discounting them. It's something that gets my blood boiling, so the self-imposed policy is more for my protection than anything else.
wink.gif
wink.gif


Let me state this extraordinary claim, though (I'm not making specific comparisons): Everything we build over here in the DIY section is worth 2-3 times as much as any commercial amp - at least, the HeadDirect EF2 included.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jan 11, 2010 at 8:19 AM Post #4,453 of 7,277
Hi everyone

Looking for some basic advice on bench testing my PCB build Starving Student. Put it together over the holidays and its all cased up. But I get no LED lightup. Tubes dont heat up and it seems just plain old dead. Checked the power supply and it is providing 48.2 VDC. Measuring from pin 3 on the mosfet to lid mounting screw ground point I get just milivolts. Measuring from the B+ screw to the mosfet pin 3 I get 48 VDC. Infact measuring from B+ to any traceable destination when looking at the schematic and board layout I measure between 47.7 and 48.2 VDC. Any ideas what I screwed up? I need some pointers to get going on debugging this...

Looking back, I did have trouble getting the LED leads through the holes in the PCB and had to pull them through with pliers. I also torqued down the mosfets before reading that I shouldn't as I could damage the burquist pads. I also got a fancy new Hakko 936 and was experimenting with heat settings especially when soldering the ground connections to try and speed up heating the ground plane but I don't think I would have damaged any parts.

Any pointers greatly appreciated
 
Jan 11, 2010 at 12:02 PM Post #4,454 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by amc /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi everyone

Looking for some basic advice on bench testing my PCB build Starving Student. Put it together over the holidays and its all cased up. But I get no LED lightup. Tubes dont heat up and it seems just plain old dead. Checked the power supply and it is providing 48.2 VDC. Measuring from pin 3 on the mosfet to lid mounting screw ground point I get just milivolts. Measuring from the B+ screw to the mosfet pin 3 I get 48 VDC. Infact measuring from B+ to any traceable destination when looking at the schematic and board layout I measure between 47.7 and 48.2 VDC. Any ideas what I screwed up? I need some pointers to get going on debugging this...

Looking back, I did have trouble getting the LED leads through the holes in the PCB and had to pull them through with pliers. I also torqued down the mosfets before reading that I shouldn't as I could damage the burquist pads. I also got a fancy new Hakko 936 and was experimenting with heat settings especially when soldering the ground connections to try and speed up heating the ground plane but I don't think I would have damaged any parts.

Any pointers greatly appreciated



The LED's are more or less independent of the rest of the circuit and as far as torquing down the MOSFETs - if that were the issue you'd short out the amp and your power supply would go to zero.

We need some clear pics of the PCB.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jan 11, 2010 at 12:32 PM Post #4,455 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The LED's are more or less independent of the rest of the circuit and as far as torquing down the MOSFETs - if that were the issue you'd short out the amp and your power supply would go to zero.

We need some clear pics of the PCB.
smily_headphones1.gif



x2. And from several different angles... Are you sure you did not reverse the connection from the power supply? Off the top of my head, the tip or center of the PSU connector is positive (B+) and the ring goes to ground.

cheers!
 

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