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Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp

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  1. d34dh0r53
    Does anyone happen to know which post number host the modified schematics? Is it worth it? I built an original point to point from Pete's site, but I'm going to build one for my dad and I'm wondering whether I should stick to the 'O' or use the modified schematics?

    thx
     
  2. dsavitsk
    Schematics are at SSMH Overview

    The differences are pretty minor, and on a PTP version can be installed/removed in about 3 minutes.
     
  3. Llama16
    Hey everyone [​IMG]

    As promised, I'll post a pic of the finished product. As I said before it's rather boring because it looks the same anyway [​IMG]. But I'm proud of it. I'd like to thank Tomb and equalizer alot for the help they gave me with this. It's my first real amp I built besides my Cmoy.

    I couldn't wait for taking the pic, I would have liked the afternoon light better in the picture. It's made with some compact camera that's over 5 years old and doesn't like closeups. It'll do.

    [​IMG]

    I'm glad of the color.
    Dries
     
  4. tomb
    Hey now - that pic looks great!! It's pretty difficult to get a good pic that shows the details of the amp, but at the same time shows off the LEDs to good effect. Your pic does both!

    I like the green, too. Blue is most popular, but those ocean green LEDs are really nice for a change of pace and not a color that you see very often.[​IMG]

    Good work!!
     
  5. Llama16
    Thanks for the compliments, I hope I could get myself in a little bit of semi-professional photography someday.

    I just couldn't leave but noticing something amazing about this amp. I was listening to This Was from Jethro Tull and I can't remember the exact song, but I heard the subtle clapping of the valves on the cross flute and his detailed breathing, what a feeling [​IMG]

    But now I'm already looking for a next build ofcourse [​IMG]. I'm learning about the working of tubes (which equalizer recommended me to) and everything is going smoothly. I was suggested the SOHA amp, which I actually have thought about myself. Allthough I haven't got into reading about it thoroughly so I don't know the 'differences in sound'/'advantages' over the SSMH.
    I also considered the PIMETA v2 of Tangent which I have been waiting for, allthough I don't have the courage to get myself into learning about opamps without knowing how the first amplificating component, tubes, work. I also don't feel like a build which just means soldering components on the right pads. Allthough I already have the MINI³ parts partially, because I actually long for a little more advanced portable amp over my Cmoy.

    The chance of making another 'little different' SSMH is very real, as I heard from equalizer that the 12AU7 tubes are almost everywhere available and cheap, and I haven't used any spare parts for this SSMH, so i'll have most of it. I might even 'dare' to get myself in messing around with the capacitor values as I'm reading about them.

    But what are your opinions on this? Any suggestions on a educating/next step amp that isn't yet to complex with maybe an even a little more advanced sound over the SSMH?

    Kind regards,
    Dries
     
  6. tomb
    Sorry, Dries -

    Many of us have definite opinions and suggestions for other amps, but I'd rather keep it out of the SSMH thread. It's kind of counter-productive and will lead to gobs of comparisons with the SSMH, which I don't think is fair to this thread or the amp.

    It's best to create a new thread in the open DIY space and ask that question. Others will feel more free to offer suggestions that way, anyway.[​IMG]
     
  7. th3bl0b
    That looks awesome! Good work! I hope that mine will look remotely like that some time in the future...
     
  8. Llama16
    Thanks alot for the compliment th3bl0b. Enjoy your own build, it's alot of fun to build it, and I wish I could do over mine already [​IMG].

    I'm sorry Tomb, I now recall the same reaction when people asked comparisons before, and I completely agree, the thread would get caught up. I didn't think further then my nose was long, and got a little carried away. My apologies [​IMG].

    I'll be creating the thread as soon as possible, be sure to stop by, I'm curious what you think as well and maybe any suggestions.

    Kind regards,
    Dries
     
  9. tomb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Llama16 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    Thanks alot for the compliment th3bl0b. Enjoy your own build, it's alot of fun to build it, and I wish I could do over mine already [​IMG].

    I'm sorry Tomb, I now recall the same reaction when people asked comparisons before, and I completely agree, the thread would get caught up. I didn't think further then my nose was long, and got a little carried away. My apologies [​IMG].

    I'll be creating the thread as soon as possible, be sure to stop by, I'm curious what you think as well and maybe any suggestions.

    Kind regards,
    Dries




    No problem. There are a lot of good amps out there that you can build. I don't think I will voice opinions in that thread, though - as a MOT, that's not really a good thing to do. You are welcome to PM me, though.[​IMG]
     
  10. simwells
    Trying to work out what parts I want for my build, heat sink wise how much does size matter?! Also when there is an outline dimension listed on a website is this the footprint?

    Also do you think this could all be fitted into an enclosure that's roughly 100mmx60x50mm?

    And finally! How would you go about wiring in LEDs that would be constantly on whilst the unit is? To illuminate the tubes or similar, my electronics knowledge is very limited fine with the practical side and can read schematics but get a bit lost especially having to alter them.
     
  11. tomb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by simwells /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    Trying to work out what parts I want for my build, heat sink wise how much does size matter?!



    It matters a lot - more mass, more exposure to the air, etc.
    Quote:

    Also when there is an outline dimension listed on a website is this the footprint?



    I'm not sure what you mean by this, can you give us an example? Actually, I can't think of any reason that an outline dimension wouldn't be the footprint - assuming that's the part you're using for the base (as in "footprint"). I suppose there could be an outline drawing of the side, but then that wouldn't be a footprint.[​IMG]
    Quote:

    Also do you think this could all be fitted into an enclosure that's roughly 100mmx60x50mm?



    I'd say that's way tight. Most likely, user rds's version that he builds for Whiplash Audio (MiniMillett) is about as small as you can get, point-to-point. I'm sure people can build them smaller if they're really ingenious, but that varies most likely.
    Quote:

    And finally! How would you go about wiring in LEDs that would be constantly on whilst the unit is? To illuminate the tubes or similar, my electronics knowledge is very limited fine with the practical side and can read schematics but get a bit lost especially having to alter them.



    All of the LED wiring that we design and recommend uses the amp power for LED power. I'm not sure how else you'd do it unless you used batteries. Certainly, the LED circuit is independent of the tubes if you wire them using amp power (typical).
     
  12. simwells
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    It matters a lot - more mass, more exposure to the air, etc.



    Well what is the easiest way to work out if a heatsink would be adequate? The thermal resistance?

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    I'm not sure what you mean by this, can you give us an example? Actually, I can't think of any reason that an outline dimension wouldn't be the footprint - assuming that's the part you're using for the base (as in "footprint"). I suppose there could be an outline drawing of the side, but then that wouldn't be a footprint.[​IMG]



    I mean I'm looking at heatsinks that fan outwards and so the footprint that it actually sits on is smaller than the fanned out dimensions.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    I'd say that's way tight. Most likely, user rds's version that he builds for Whiplash Audio (MiniMillett) is about as small as you can get, point-to-point. I'm sure people can build them smaller if they're really ingenious, but that varies most likely.



    Do you have any idea of what you would consider to be roughly the minimum size to be then?
     
  13. SteveC89
    I got my new power supply yesterday and everything seems to be working, but I have a few questions for you.

    My question involves mosfet temp. So I did the 12sr7 build and I ordered the 1.5" heatsinks. I know for this build people recommended the 2" but I didn't see that till later. Anyway, the heatsinks get pretty hot. I put a meat thermometer on the heatsink and it reads between 50-55 degrees Celcius (~125-130 Fahrenheit). Could these temperatures harm the mosfets?

    This is probably silly, but how bright should 12sr7gt glow? I am used to guitar tubes and those things can put out some light, but I was a little disappointed with the little dot of light at the top. Is this about what other people have seen?

    Also, I bought the lighted version of the switch in the original BOM (mouser# 540-RRA32H3BBRLN), but I can't figure out how to make it work. Anyone see what I'm missing here?

    Here are some pics of the finished build (and no, the speaker in there is not hooked up...yet):
    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...0/DSC00435.jpg

    http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...0/DSC00434.jpg
     
  14. the_equalizer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SteveC89 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    I got my new power supply yesterday and everything seems to be working, but I have a few questions for you.

    My question involves mosfet temp. So I did the 12sr7 build and I ordered the 1.5" heatsinks. I know for this build people recommended the 2" but I didn't see that till later. Anyway, the heatsinks get pretty hot. I put a meat thermometer on the heatsink and it reads between 50-55 degrees Celcius (~125-130 Fahrenheit). Could these temperatures harm the mosfets?

    This is probably silly, but how bright should 12sr7gt glow? I am used to guitar tubes and those things can put out some light, but I was a little disappointed with the little dot of light at the top. Is this about what other people have seen?

    Also, I bought the lighted version of the switch in the original BOM (mouser# 540-RRA32H3BBRLN), but I can't figure out how to make it work. Anyone see what I'm missing here?

    Here are some pics of the finished build (and no, the speaker in there is not hooked up...yet):




    Good to hear the new power supply got your amp working! Congratulations!

    Different tubes light up differently, even different makes of the same tube do. I think it was user Juaquin who mentioned that the 19J6 tubes he got had enclosed heaters and barely gave out any light. You could try other 12SR7's to see if those shine a bit more.

    As temperature goes, 55° C won't damage the MOSFETs. I recall reading a post mentioning that 60° C is the maximum temperature that you'd want to have. Remember that with 12 volt heater tube builds (like yours) the MOSFETs get more voltage and thus get hotter than with the 19J6 version. Finally, it is still worth pointing out that the cooler the MOSFETs work the longer they'll live

    cheers !
     
  15. tomb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SteveC89 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
    <snip>

    Also, I bought the lighted version of the switch in the original BOM (mouser# 540-RRA32H3BBRLN), but I can't figure out how to make it work. Anyone see what I'm missing here?




    Unfortunately, according to the data sheet (http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/ro.../RR_Series.pdf), the "L" designates a lamp rated for 125VAC. There's probably not enough voltage in the 48VDC power supply to light it up.
     
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