[Mavwong]

I replace all the coupling cap(stock red one) 4.7uf to blackgate nx series 4.7uf. The wima you refers to is at the tube out right? I replace with mundrof supreme 0.1uf 1200VDC cap (black one, thought I already mention it in my previous reply).

Mav

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtl777 /img/forum/go_quote.gif That sure is [size=medium]LARGE![/size] Did you replace the small red Wima 0.1uF 63V caps? Did you also replace any electrolytics? Please let me know any other caps that you replaced and what brand/series you replaced them with. Thanks!

 

[mtl777]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mavwong /img/forum/go_quote.gif I replace all the coupling cap(stock red one) 0.47uf to blackgate nx series 0.47uf. The wima you refers to is at the tube out right? I replace with mundrof supreme 0.1uf 1200VDC cap (black one, thought I already mention it in my previous reply). Mav

Are you sure the small coupling caps (stock red ones) were 0.47uF? They are 0.1uF in mine, and polyester caps like them are very large if their value is 0.47uF. Are we talking about the same caps (C19, C49, C50, etc.)?

 

[frozenfire]

Thanks TheDuke990.

Just one more question, if I only use it as hp amp, not as preamp, do I get any benefit if change the tube?

I did see some discussion about it. but didn't find an answer


Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDuke990 /img/forum/go_quote.gif @frozenfire: why you don't use his official web site . Maverick Audio - Tube Magic D1 DAC

 

[Mavwong]

Nope, the tube out put was not feed to the internal HP amp. In fact, opamps that is closer to the tube also has nothing to do with HP amp sound.

Mav

Quote:

Originally Posted by frozenfire /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks TheDuke990. Just one more question, if I only use it as hp amp, not as preamp, do I get any benefit if change the tube? I did see some discussion about it. but didn't find an answer

 

[Mavwong]

Those are little square cap. I did not replace them. I was referring to the coupling cap between stages, nicon 4.7uf. (error in my last post which I state it's 0.47uf).

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtl777 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are you sure the small coupling caps (stock red ones) were 0.47uF? They are 0.1uF in mine, and polyester caps like them are very large if their value is 0.47uF. Are we talking about the same caps (C19, C49, C50, etc.)?

 

[Eclecticos]

Hi everyone,
I have had my D1 for about 3 weeks, and have truly enjoyed it. It drives a diy, transformer-coupled 300B SET Amp, powering DIY, MarKen10 (Alpair 10, single-driver, fullrange) speakers.

I replaced the stock tube (NOS from Russia), with a JAN 2C51, which did wonders for the soundstage, bass and clarity. I have a WE 396 that I have been waiting to try: more later on that score.

Frustratingly, today I tried replacing the stock headphone op-amp with the gd-audio "Moon" HDAM. I used the gd-audio extension socket/pigtail to allow placement of the HDAM, forward of the socket, on it's side.

The upshot: no headphone output at all, and a low-level dc-offset click, about once a second. I replaced the stock op-amp, and it is back to normal.

Any thoughts out there on the "Moon" HDAM, of which I have two, and had hoped to place in both op-amp positions?

Thanks to everyone here for steering me to the D1, which I am loving!

Best,

Marcus

 

[ding96]

Hi guys,
I have an ath w5000 on the way, and am looking to purchase a budget dac/amp to pair it. Initial I eyed on the at ha25d, since my main source would be a MacBook pro, I thought I could utilize the optical out.
But after reading through this thread I'm now confused which to buy.
My main concern was that since I'm only going to use the optical in on both dac/amp, what would be the difference between the 24/192 (ha25d) and 24/96 (d1)? And the dac chip and opamp between the two.

 

[sdcloud69]

would this puppy make for a good upgrade from a ZERO Dac? i've got a serious case of upgrade-itus and this looks pretty nice on paper.

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mavwong /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nope, the tube out put was not feed to the internal HP amp. In fact, opamps that is closer to the tube also has nothing to do with HP amp sound. Mav

The opamp close to the tube is the DAC opamp. If you only use line-in then it won't affect the sound but if you use Coaxial, Optical or USB, it does have an affect on the sound.

sdcloud69, Several people say that the Maverick unit is better sounding and build quality than the Zero. I can't really comment since I haven't owned the Zero. I will say that the features are kind of the same, it's mostly a different circuit layout. That and the D1 has a tube pre-amp output. From pure observation, I think it can be said that the Maverick D1 is built better than the Zero just because I haven't heard about anyone that's had issues. If you really want the tube pre-amp output, the Maverick D1 could be a decent upgrade but if you won't use it, then depending on your budget you may want to look elsewhere (as much as I hate to say that).

 

[breakfastchef]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdcloud69 /img/forum/go_quote.gif would this puppy make for a good upgrade from a ZERO Dac? i've got a serious case of upgrade-itus and this looks pretty nice on paper.

I never owned a Zero, so I cannot say if the Maverick is a step up. Based on my experience, though, using a Beresford Dac (similarly priced to the Maverick), the Maverick is among the good, not great, DAC/headphone amps.

The Maverick does provide a tube output that feeds into an amplifier that runs speakers. This feature does allow you to change the sound signature to a more tube-like sound, and can be adjusted by tube rolling. Is it better than a stock CD or digital input?; I say yes.

The headphone section is purely digital to analog. To fine tune the Maverick to your personal preference would require rolling opamps. Nothing cast in stone, but you can start with impressions by other Maverick owners to narrow down on several op amps that might fit your headphones.

Overall, the Maverick is a nice, mid-end unit. Nothing spectacular, yet it does improve on the digital inputs you may be feeding to your headphone or speaker systems. I am keeping mine since I probably cannot appreciate the sound difference from a device costing twice as much.

 

[Mavwong]

That opamps has nothing to do with the dac. It is use to drive the solid state preout and also use to feed to input of tube buffer. Try pull out the opamp and u will still get music from the HP Jack.

Quote:

Originally Posted by _Spanky_ /img/forum/go_quote.gif The opamp close to the tube is the DAC opamp. If you only use line-in then it won't affect the sound but if you use Coaxial, Optical or USB, it does have an affect on the sound.

 

[DannyBuoy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eclecticos /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi everyone, I have had my D1 for about 3 weeks, and have truly enjoyed it. It drives a diy, transformer-coupled 300B SET Amp, powering DIY, MarKen10 (Alpair 10, single-driver, fullrange) speakers. I replaced the stock tube (NOS from Russia), with a JAN 2C51, which did wonders for the soundstage, bass and clarity. I have a WE 396 that I have been waiting to try: more later on that score. Frustratingly, today I tried replacing the stock headphone op-amp with the gd-audio "Moon" HDAM. I used the gd-audio extension socket/pigtail to allow placement of the HDAM, forward of the socket, on it's side. The upshot: no headphone output at all, and a low-level dc-offset click, about once a second. I replaced the stock op-amp, and it is back to normal. Any thoughts out there on the "Moon" HDAM, of which I have two, and had hoped to place in both op-amp positions? Thanks to everyone here for steering me to the D1, which I am loving! Best, Marcus

Not sure why that is happening to you. I have the Sun in mine for 2 months now without issues. I am not using the extension, I have it plugged right into the DIP. Of course I had to keep the cover off the D1 to do that, but am planning to cut the cover soon to allow HDAm to stick out. I really like the sound from the HDAM over the three other OpAmps I tried. Can you eliminate the pigtail from the cause by plugging right into the DIP and see if you still get the click?
It may have to do with volatage differences between Sun and Moon as there was concern from Brunson about using his HDAM when I asked him if it would work in the D1 and he asked me to measure the voltage at the OpAmp to make sure it was at least, I don't have the email here but I think he said 4.7 V. Perhaps the Moon requires slightly more voltage to drive than the Sun and it is just below threshold casuing the clicking sound as the circuit's DC offset hits DC. Another possibility is to swap the HDAM out for another one to make sure you do not have a bad capacitor on the HDAM causing the DC click.
Just some troubleshooting thoughts to throw out there. Let me know what you find will you?

 

[DannyBuoy]

Just throwing it out there to hear some opinions from people who like the D1 but have heard better for a bit more money.

I have Denon D5000's with JMoney Pads (mentioned becasue it cuts the SPL a bit since pads move drivers away from ears).

I use the USB In and have not used it as a pre-amp more than just to test it out. I really only use it as a SS HP DAC/AMP.

I find myself wishing the D1 had more reserves to drive the Denons as the sound gets a little distorted and thin on Bass as I pump the volume to my the pressure levels I like when I want to really feel the music. I only have the volume knob at 9 o'clock maybe as high as 10 O'clock when really pumping (with Windows volume bypassed with Direct Sound), and it seems like the D1 just does not have the capacitors or maybe the transformer to drive the HPs adequately without compromise.

What is your opinion on the next level of performance brand/model that I can go to in order to get that fast, deep responsive dynamics I am not getting with the D1?
My budget is upto $500 if I had to but my comfort would be below that if possible. I think I am getting away from Tubes here as I had an EF2 that could not drive the Denons the way I wanted, and the tubes were not fast enough for my liking. That said, I have never tried any WooAudio or other sunstantially powerful tube amp to see if it was "fast" enough for my liking as I listen to fast beat music not classical or aucoustic style music. If anyone thinks there are tube amps in the sub $500 range that have the speed of dynamics that a SS amp has please let me know, otherwise what SS DAC/AMP with USB Input would you reccomend?

Thank-you for your time and any feedback you give.

 

[mtl777]

Quote:

Originally Posted by breakfastchef /img/forum/go_quote.gif I never owned a Zero, so I cannot say if the Maverick is a step up. Based on my experience, though, using a Beresford Dac (similarly priced to the Maverick), the Maverick is among the good, not great, DAC/headphone amps.

Between the Maverick and the Beresford DAC, which one do you prefer in terms of sound quality only (not considering the features)?

 

[Hypnotique]

ok I have something to share

I bought the Maverick Audio amp a month ago.

The unit was faulty..it kept powering off and didn't power up for a while. I brought it back to the shop, they agreed to change it for me, but they said the new unit will take 2 weeks to arrive. I also complained that there was excessive 'graining' on higher volumes (I am using it with Grado 225i) and I couldnt even turn up the volume more than 50%. The shop owner told me he will solve that as well.

So 2 weeks later, I collect the new unit. It works fine, but the amplification power has dramatically been reduced. I can easily go up to 75% volume now. Of course it has solved the 'graining/scratchy' background noise problem but i want to know if I have been cheated in any way? has the shop owner changed any of the tubes or 'weakened' the unit?