Maverick Audio DAC/Amp
Jun 30, 2010 at 8:38 PM Post #1,561 of 2,660


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Yeah, I was planning to do the plexiglass mod anyway (all sides), so I'll throw away the extension cables and just directly insert it into the socket. Using a dremel to make space for the HDAMs and I should be good to go. Posting pics during the process.
 

 
You may need to add a socket to act like a booster seat for the HDAM's. The surrounding components might be too tall, just a heads up :)
 
 
Jun 30, 2010 at 10:52 PM Post #1,562 of 2,660


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You may need to add a socket to act like a booster seat for the HDAM's. The surrounding components might be too tall, just a heads up :)
 


 Interesting, any recommendations from your side for the socket? Not pointed at you, but wouldn't it be pretty interesting to put small RAM heatsinks on the LT1364 with adhesive tape to keep the heat worries away? I know that OPAs are relatively small, but you could dremel the perfect size for them. Oh boy, the mod ideas just keep coming in for the D1..
 
Jun 30, 2010 at 11:40 PM Post #1,563 of 2,660


Quote:
 Interesting, any recommendations from your side for the socket? Not pointed at you, but wouldn't it be pretty interesting to put small RAM heatsinks on the LT1364 with adhesive tape to keep the heat worries away? I know that OPAs are relatively small, but you could dremel the perfect size for them. Oh boy, the mod ideas just keep coming in for the D1..


 
I would suggest something like this:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Aries/08-3518-10.jpg
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/297131-8-pin-solder-tail-dip-socket-08-3518-10.html
 
I don't know if 1 or 2 would work but they're cheap enough and if you think of it, the extension leads for HDAM units use 2 sockets plus the socket on the PCB.
 
You're also a little late to the heatsink party :) I did it and I believe another member did as well:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/DSC05413.JPG
 
Don't ask me if there's any benefit. I have no idea. I'm actually skeptical if the heatsink on the DAC (opamp close to the tube) is pulling in heat from the tube. What I did for mine is I cut a heatsink down to size, used a little Arctic Silver 5, then while the whole thing is under compression, I hotglued the heatsink to the opamp. I will say 1 thing positive about the mod; it's a lot easier to pull the opamps out :) Another unnecessary mod would be a heatsink on the outside of the case:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/DSC05421.JPG
 
I feel mine after a while and it gets warm so I know it's doing it's job. Same application method, AS5 and hotglue.
 
Jul 1, 2010 at 3:29 PM Post #1,564 of 2,660
Another way to fix the heat is to take out the tube if your not using it, or put a low power computer fan on top of the unit(one of those super quiet ones).  Set it over one vent as either an exaust or cooling unit.
 
Either should work  well in this situation, since setting it on the cooling side would push outside air in the unit and theoretically push hot air out the other end.  Only problem would be dust bunnies and dirt forming aroudn the components much like an unfiltered computer case.  Exaust would pull out the hot air out without pushing outside dust in.
 
Jul 1, 2010 at 4:22 PM Post #1,567 of 2,660
Thats a great lookin' mod reiserFS! You'll have to post a how-to guide sometime. Hows the heat distribution on it? sp70.
 
Jul 1, 2010 at 6:43 PM Post #1,570 of 2,660
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Thats a great lookin' mod reiserFS! You'll have to post a how-to guide sometime. Hows the heat distribution on it? sp70.

     Sorry for the delay, but I was heading out straight after I've finished the mod. It's a really simple mod that just requires a few screws and a dremel, I'll write up more information tonight. As for the heat, I'm currently testing it, but the initial impressions are way cooler than the stock casing, thanks to the bigger ventilation holes. I know that each hole is different in size a bit, but I'll fix that along with installing the Audio-gd HDAMs.
 
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Very sharp looking. How did you do the sides?

    Measured the sides from the stock casing and exactly cut them according to their size (5,00cm x 16,00 cm). Drilled holes into the casing in order to install the sides with screws, that's literally everything to it.
  I'm sorry for the bad picture quality, but my better camera has just left the house for audio hardware funds *sigh*
 
Edit1: I've been running the Skyline for around two hours and it gets barely warm, continuing to observe - this baby is still dead silent with the new casing by the way.
 
Jul 2, 2010 at 12:00 AM Post #1,572 of 2,660
I like how it preforms with my 650s so far.  Only had them for about a week though.
 
Jul 2, 2010 at 10:05 AM Post #1,573 of 2,660
Alright, I've had the Skyline on for around 6 hours yesterday and it got barely warm and obviously hot over the tube ventilation. The OPA section was slightly warm and much of the additional heat was produced by the big caps, note that this was with around 30 Celsius in my room. One last thing to note is that the metal casing got really hot when compared to the plexiglass mod. I'll write up detailed information and a how-to guide later today.
 
Jul 2, 2010 at 10:21 AM Post #1,574 of 2,660

I received the Bravo after 1 week only :) I
 
Setup is: Cd player -> D1 - Bravo V2 -> DT990~600
 
First impression: Build quality is what you can expect fot its price. Especially the power switch .It sounds way better then the D1 headphone out, even after the opamp change. nice bass (not too much), highs are ok, mids are so so. Don't forget that's with the stock chinese crap tube. Looking forward to listening to the RCA clear top tubes
 
It's not so warm as my main amp and the bass can't be compared at all, but I'm very pleasantly surprised. I might, for some types of music, be going for the Bravo (with the RCAs) and not my main amp . Reason is that after having listened to the Fun Loving Criminals I find myself thinking my amp has too much bass and warmth. I'm in shock, lol.
 
I'll report back after some more listening. To remember for now: For 21€ I paid on ebay, this is nice. See how it sounds this weekend, nnow its Holland - Brasil :D
 
 
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haha i'm also curious about bravo amp! i don't know how well it will perform. factoring into the shipping fees as well as potential tube swapping i do think it will cost me quite a lot too.
 
let me know how does it work with mav d1!
 

 



 
Jul 2, 2010 at 4:00 PM Post #1,575 of 2,660
http://www.mavaudio.com/base/audio-and-hi-fi/tube-magic-a1-hybrid-amplifier-is-almost-ready-for-pre-order/
 
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From left to right: main power switch, volume control knob, audio input select knob, line-in socket, headphone amplifier socket
 

From left to right: analog audio input, tube pre-amp output, right speaker connector, left speaker connector, power voltage switch, power cord socket
 

Two matched 1950’s Tung-Sol military grade tube installed in the A1

 

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