[henree]

http://tamaudio.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_46&product_id=83
I plan to buy a local opa 627. So will the above adaptor be all I need to? I just have to plug the two opa 627's and I am good to go?

 

[HaVoC-28]

 
Quote:

http://tamaudio.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_46&product_id=83
I plan to buy a local opa 627. So will the above adaptor be all I need to? I just have to plug the two opa 627's and I am good to go?

yes that's right ^^ , just be sure to put them in the right way  . Tryed it with my OPA627BP from farnell and it was a clear improvement (but currently using OPA moon instead .)

 

[WestLander]

Quote:

2. Regarding the opamp-swap. It does NOT go both ways, even if it SLOTS both ways. You should clearly see a sort of "dent" on the opamp, and the same type of dent on the socket it's inserted into. So, look at both the replacement opamp and the socket. On one of the sides, there should be a sort of half moon empty, signaling what way is "up" and what way to insert the replacement opamp, EVEN if it correctly slots either way. This is pretty important. I don't really know what can happen if you keep it in the wrong way, but I'm pretty sure you don't want to find out

Mea culpa
 
You are correct, the little "notches" on the opamp should face the back of the m-stage - towards the blue transformer and the rca jacks, that is. 

 

[szanella]

Hey!

I read a few posts back that www.matrixelectronics.net isn't the official matrix website.

Nevertheless, do they deliver it?
 
They've got a good price and is the only company that agreed on shipping by Chinese Air Mail to me (chineses air mail isn't taxed in my country).
 
Should I go for it?
 
Thanks!

 

[PelPix]

The other companies are refusing to ship by it because there's no tracking and it takes like 50 days if you get it at all.

 

[geetarman49]

danger! will robinson, danger!
 
Quote:

Hey!

I read a few posts back that www.matrixelectronics.net isn't the official matrix website.

Nevertheless, do they deliver it?
 
They've got a good price and is the only company that agreed on shipping by Chinese Air Mail to me (chineses air mail isn't taxed in my country).
 
Should I go for it?
 
Thanks!

 

 

[roker]

Has anyone tried using this amp as a preamp for active desktop speakers?
 
I don't know if I'm fully convinced this is the amp for me, but this would be a big plus if it was quiet and stable (balanced, but not as in balanced output/input) when it comes to volume control.

 

[clams]

Quote:

Has anyone tried using this amp as a preamp for active desktop speakers?
 
I don't know if I'm fully convinced this is the amp for me, but this would be a big plus if it was quiet and stable (balanced, but not as in balanced output/input) when it comes to volume control.

Yep. I regularly use them with my Audioengine A2s and they definitely tighten up the bass a good bit and give them way more punch than a speakers that size should have.
 

 

[Monago]

Question! I've removed the input caps, but find the sound *slightly* too harsh. Is there any other way to slightly increase warmth without putting the input caps back in?
 
I don't know if the circuit design would allow this, but what about simply placing the 2 smaller input caps back onto the board?

 

[purrin]

Run a warmer op-amp. Change ~400uf PS caps all around to something warm sounding like Elna Silmics.
 
Putting the small input caps back on won't work. You will just end up with a very hi-pass filter. The small caps are bypass caps to help out the big ones in the high frequencies. Another alternative: find other boutique caps to replace the big blue caps and don't bypass them with small caps.
 
A cheap solution could be the Dayton Audio caps found on parts express. Almost anything is better than those box caps. I forgot the values you need - 1.5uf or 3.0uF? Just make sure it will fit or be prepared to use some creative mounting.
 
Sorry it didn't work out. Hopefully I didn't forget to warn everyone about possible negative consequences of the cap removal / shunt mod.

 

[Mad Max]

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by purrin /img/forum/go_quote.gif

 
...
Sorry it didn't work out. Hopefully I didn't forget to warn everyone about possible negative consequences of the cap removal / shunt mod.

I'm not getting harshness or anything, probably from rolling/bypassing other caps, I think.  I'm not using any silmics either.

 

[Monago]

Quote:

Run a warmer op-amp. Change ~400uf PS caps all around to something warm sounding like Elna Silmics.
 
Putting the small input caps back on won't work. You will just end up with a very hi-pass filter. The small caps are bypass caps to help out the big ones in the high frequencies. Another alternative: find other boutique caps to replace the big blue caps and don't bypass them with small caps.
 
A cheap solution could be the Dayton Audio caps found on parts express. Almost anything is better than those box caps. I forgot the values you need - 1.5uf or 3.0uF? Just make sure it will fit or be prepared to use some creative mounting.
 
Sorry it didn't work out. Hopefully I didn't forget to warn everyone about possible negative consequences of the cap removal / shunt mod.

I appreciate the response, purrin! You did in fact warn about the potential risks of going entirely neutral, so I knew what I was getting myself into. It's better than it was, but I'd prefer just a smidgen more warmth in the sound.
 
I also sincerely appreciate the cap suggestion! I'm about to order a few of those Dayton Audio caps right now (1.5uF). I'll tell you how it turns out once I have them here and mounted.
 
Oh, and just to confirm; I assume these are the caps you were referring to?: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-412

 

[purrin]

Or the high precision ones: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-212
 
At 31mm, they are not horribly big, but some creative mounting may be required. Get some small diameter shrink tubing to shroud the leads if necessary. Some extra alligator clips with small patches of foil attached to the leads of the caps will help dissipate heat while soldering (I don't know how experienced you are with soldering, but I melted quite a few components when I first started out with my too hot radio shack iron.)
 
I generally don't believe in magic caps, but you want to spend a bit more: http://gr-research.com/sonicaps.aspx
 
The fun is trying different things and learning.
 

 

[Monago]

Interesting....
 
So instead of immediately ordering the new caps for my amp, I decided to look toward my source for the issue before coming to any conclusions. I said the amp sounded "harsh" in my initial post, but in fact, my source was the culprit. There was etch and grain in the treble, and I simply assumed 'this must be what neutral sounds like,' when in fact the warmer sound before cap modification was covering my poor source output. After some tinkering, the 'harshness' has completely disappeared, and I'm now hearing the clearest, most transparent sound I've heard in my entire life. It's incredible...
 
To be clear, I do not believe in cables, or any other 'snake oil' solutions for changing sound.
 
Edit: That said, I'd still like the sound to be ever-so-slightly warmer. I'll probably end up throwing in quality input caps relatively soon.

 

[purrin]

Quote:

Interesting....
 
So instead of immediately ordering the new caps for my amp, I decided to look toward my source for the issue before coming to any conclusions. I said the amp sounded "harsh" in my initial post, but in fact, my source was the culprit. There was etch and grain in the treble, and I simply assumed 'this must be what neutral sounds like,' when in fact the warmer sound before cap modification was covering my poor source output. After some tinkering, the 'harshness' has completely disappeared, and I'm now hearing the clearest, most transparent sound I've heard in my entire life. It's incredible...
 
To be clear, I do not believe in cables, or any other 'snake oil' solutions for changing sound.
 
Edit: That said, I'd still like the sound to be ever-so-slightly warmer. I'll probably end up throwing in quality caps relatively soon.

If you have a DMM (if you don't, just pick up something cheap from a Home Depot), check DC voltage at headphone outputs. Just in case your source is putting out any DC. I don't want your headphones dying.
 
As far as cables, since you are now fully armed with a soldering iron, you can make your own $400 headphone cables. Watch the heat though when you solder wire on headphone drivers otherwise you will melt the voice coils. Get a cheap Weller soldering station where you can adjust temperature.
 
This is awesome. You are now one of the few people on the planet who has actually had first-hand experience and knowledge of what caps do to sound quality.