[hipster2010]

Quote:

I wanted to get the beyer velour pads, which ones fit the t50rp's again, was it the dt250 or dt990 versions?
 

It's the DT990

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Hi BMF, thanks for the reply, I've been trying to read through some of the data you've compiled for the T50RP mods and I have to tell you I'm a little intimidated but at the same time very impressed with the work you've done.  I wish there was a simple tutorial laying out the steps with pictures for the easiest methods for us non-techy types.  Thanks again.
 
Phill

 
Phill,
 
As you wish. I created a "Simplified and Consolidated Pictorial for DBV #3" and added it to Post Number 1. It's located between Graphs 55 and 56. I hope this makes it easier to follow.

 

[tubes]

Thanks so much, I'll get the T50RPs Tuesday and want to listen to them stock for a while to get a handle on their sound then will start to do your mods so I can hear the changes.

 

[cegli]

Quote:

 
Phill,
 
As you wish. I created a "Simplified and Consolidated Pictorial for DBV #3" and added it to Post Number 1. It's located between Graphs 55 and 56. I hope this makes it easier to follow.

Awesome!  I had been looking at doing DBV #3, and that made it even easier to figure out.  Have all the materials, just waiting for my T50RPs to finish their reship to Canada! 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

"These headphones are too loose and won't stay put." If that's the case, here are 3 "fixes."

 

1. If you make too many tuning cycles, the threads will eventually strip inside "Connector B" - the part that holds the rails to the headband with a single large screw. When this happens the headphones will not stay put and won't clamp at the same pressure as when you originally tuned them. This can occur slowly and you may not notice that the SQ is deteriorating. It can happen suddenly and the headphone falls off your head. There's a work-around using a 1 cm length of plastic coated wire tie - the kind used for closing bread bags.  Fold it in half and place one end inside the compartment. The other side drapes over the outside at the 6 o'clock position.This works pretty well unless the threads are completely gone.
 
 

 
Connector B with a bread tie
 

I think it works better to reposition this bread tie 180 degrees so the outside of the tie is on the opposite side of this Connector B. Plastic covered wire ties work better than those covered with paper.
 
OR
 

2. I'm working on a super glue fix similar to what works great for re-tapping the cup threads. Connector B's thread compartment, however, is much bigger than the cup thread compartments. Cup thread compartments filled/tamped/ with a paperclip/filled with super glue cure in 24 hours. Then drill them out with a 2mm (1/16") drill bit and the tiny screws will self-tap new threads in the remaining super glue that bonded with the compartment walls and floor. This method must be broken down across 3 or 4 days for Connector B. Fill Connector B's thread compartment by only 1/3 every 24 hours. By 96 hours you can drill with a bit no larger than the stock screw or use a tap and die kit to tap new threads. 

 

I have not tried super glue "activator" that accelerates super glue curing. I'm going to order some from Home Depot Online and give it a try. Filling the compartment with super glue by thirds and using the activator between applications may speed the process up so the "fix" is completed within minutes instead of days.

 

NOTE: In order for Connector B to properly seat, flush, with the headband receiver, the new threads must be tapped exactly perpendicular to the horizontal plane.
 
OR
 
3. You can order a new Connector B at fullcompass.com  currently for $5.32 each.
 
 If the link does not work, go the Full Compass web site and search:  [size=1.5em]Fostex[/size][size=1.5em] [/size][size=1.5em]1412000201[/size][size=1.5em] [/size][size=1.5em]CONNECTOR B[/size]
[size=0.8em] OUR PART #  1412000201[/size]
[size=0.8em]  [/size]
[size=small]
 
Connector B is #5 in the list.
 
[/size]

 
 

NOTE: Super glue applied in thirds across 3 days followed by another 24 hours to cure the third application works. I used a 7/64" drill bit in my Dremel on slowest speed and light pressure. The large screw that holds it all together re-tapped new threads and now the headphones are held tightly and don't slip. I ordered the super glue activator and will post results.

 

[FraGGleR]

I also got the wrong cotton sent to me from Rite Aid.  
 
BMF did they give an ETA on when the good stuff will be back in stock (or is it discontinued).  I haven't had a chance to call yet.

 

[eimis]

Best DIY amp for these?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

I also got the wrong cotton sent to me from Rite Aid.  
 
BMF did they give an ETA on when the good stuff will be back in stock (or is it discontinued).  I haven't had a chance to call yet.

No, they said they don't know. If I hear from them, I'll update this thread. Contact Rite Aid Customer Service and tell them you ordered Rite Aid Item number 0031106 and want a replacement when back in stock. They told me to keep the First Aid Rolled Cotton they sent me.
 
London Drugs (Canada) Absorbent Cotton Roll is probably the closest I've seen, kindly sent to me by two Canadian friends.

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Best DIY amp for these?

These (and my LCD-2's) sound quite good on my Objective 2.  Objective 2 is hard to beat on value.  Less than $100 build, and holds up quite well to much more expensive amps.  Heck, the T50rp's sound good to me out of my Cmoy ($35 build).  I heard my T50rp's out of a $900 amp and really don't think they got any better than with what I have.  

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

No, they said they don't know. If I hear from them, I'll update this thread. Contact Rite Aid Customer Service and tell them you ordered Rite Aid Item number 0031106 and want a replacement when back in stock. They told me to keep the First Aid Rolled Cotton they sent me.
 
London Drugs (Canada) Absorbent Cotton Roll is probably the closest I've seen, kindly sent to me by two Canadian friends.

Ok.  Thanks.  If they let me keep them without charge, I will experiment with it, as even if it isn't ideal, it looks like it will be easier to get even than my unrolled cotton balls.  Now that I have a good reference in my newly acquired LCD-2's, I am going to spend more time fine-tuning the T50rp's.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

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Ok.  Thanks.  If they let me keep them without charge, I will experiment with it, as even if it isn't ideal, it looks like it will be easier to get even than my unrolled cotton balls.  Now that I have a good reference in my newly acquired LCD-2's, I am going to spend more time fine-tuning the T50rp's.

I use my LCD2's as a reference, too, along with other modded headphones whose sound I like.  I have a Dacmini and "had" the O2 +  ODAC for a weekend comparison before I sent them on to my brother.  They performed similarly to one another using my LCD2's and all manner of modded headphones.  I didn't have enough time to do blinded A/B's or try all my test tracks but was convinced that the O2 + ODAC is excellent for the low cost. Got mine from JDSLabs and requested black jacks. Only took another day.
 
As I've previously mentioned, Rite Aid First Aid Rolled Cotton can work. I cut it to size and snipped corners. Then I pulled the dense layers apart as much as possible to make it more "springy."  What's a better word?  LOL  I am convinced, though, that Rite Aid Nat'l Aborbent Cotton is superior.  I spoke with customer service again, today. It's still "out of stock" but they expect some in 2 - 3 weeks.

 

[tubes]

In response to the post using a wire tie to fix the stripped plastic piece I have used a piece of flat toothpick placed in the screw hole which works great unless all the threads are stripped.

 

[FraGGleR]

Does anyone know if the baffle screws are a standard size and can be bought at a hardware store or someplace else?  I haven't stripped any yet, but I feel like I am close to it.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Does anyone know if the baffle screws are a standard size and can be bought at a hardware store or someplace else?  I haven't stripped any yet, but I feel like I am close to it.

 
I've never stripped baffle screws but I've stripped the cup threads into which the baffle screws go many times. I don't see how metal screws would strip before plastic threads. I bet you're about to strip your cup threads, instead.
 
There is a relatively easy fix described in one of my previous posts a few pages back. Basically, you use a 1/16" (2mm) drill bit to drill out the ruined plastic threads. Blow out the plastic debris. Fill each compartment with super glue and stir it around/tamp it down with a paper clip. Repeat until the super glue has filled each compartment to the top. Use liquid super glue, not the gel which won't flow into such tiny spaces.
 
Wait 25 hours. Use the same drill bit. Drill on slow speed, straight down with minimal pressure to the depth of the screw theads. Careful to not drill all the way through the cup! The screws will self-tap new threads good for at least 20 modding cycles. I've done some sets 3 times.

 

[FraGGleR]

I guess I used the wrong word.  I am damaging the tops of the screws to the point where it is hard for the screwdriver to grip it well.