[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

 
I'm pretty sure the driver just unscrews off the baffle. No need for anything spectacular or treacherous.

 
Curiosity killed my cat, so to speak. I was curious about disassembling a set of T50RP's. I removed the inner screws only to find the driver still firmly attached to the baffle by 4 clips; I think 2 on each side. I tried carefully, I thought, to prize the clips apart, using a small flathead screwdriver, to free the driver from the baffle. I managed only to snap off three of the clips and, on the fourth, my screwdriver slipped and punctured the driver film. I later read someone's post in this thread about a method of removing the driver by twisting the baffle. I have not tried it. 

 

[Pingupenguins]

Quote:

 
Curiosity killed my cat, so to speak. I was curious about disassembling a set of T50RP's. I removed the inner screws only to find the driver still firmly attached to the baffle by 4 clips; I think 2 on each side. I tried carefully, I thought, to prize the clips apart, using a small flathead screwdriver, to free the driver from the baffle. I managed only to snap off three of the clips and, on the fourth, my screwdriver slipped and punctured the driver film. I later read someone's post in this thread about a method of removing the driver by twisting the baffle. I have not tried it. 

Yikes. I'd probably just take the clips out completely since it does screw in place anyway. No need to be redundant. Good luck on trying the twist method! I might get into T50rp mods one day, most likely not however.

 

[Armaegis]

So it wasn't too bad removing the driver. Take out the three baffle earside screws, and on the cupside of the baffle there are only two plastic clips holding it down. Using a screwdriver to carefully pry one side open will let you pop the other one out no problem. Do note however that the plastic clip is weakened by this or might snap off completely (on mine, the plastic has distorted to white and is now wobbly).
 
So now my other dillema, I'm not sure if I can go through with the intended transplant. It will require significant modding of the donor baffle (aka: go nuts with the dremel) as well as trimming off excess plastic on the T50rp driver, and even then I'm not even sure if I can get the whole driver to fit into the cup. I *might* at most have 1mm clearance, or more likely negative clearance unless I dremel some notches into the cup too... But nothing venture nothing gained? hmm...

 

[davidst]

I luv mine! got them here $74 freeship , just click on the see price in cart
 
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/281431-REG/Fostex_T50_RP_T50RP_Studio_Headphones.html

 

[pp312]

As one who's just received the T50RP today, I have 3 observations (call them potentialy changeable opinions), and 3 questions.
 
1, I don't like the sound.
 
2. I find them very uncomfortable.
 
3. There is a poor connection in the right channel that I can't seem to correct.
 
Now the 3 questions:
 
1. What improvement can I expect from burning in? My first impression was of an horrendous ringing, probably from the cup. After a few hours of pink noise I'm less aware of that but still find the FR restricted and the whole sound muffled and just generally poor.
 
2. Would the 840 earcups suggested as a replacement be likely to be any more comfortable?. Do they actually surround the ear or simply crush it like the Fostex?
 
3. How can I remove the connection to the ear cup? I've tried moving it back and forth but it doesn't come out in any position. Anyone know why this connection is so poor (and stubborn)? 
 
To put all this in context, my regular phone is an LCD-2 (Rev1). I love the sound but was curious after all these posts to see whether the Fostex could actually live up to its hype. I can't say I'm disappointed as I didn't know what to expect, but what I've got is far from anything I could actually listen to with pleasure. In fact right now I'm finding it hard to imagine that any amount of burn-in or modification could bring the T50RP to a point of comparison with the LCD-2, as has been suggested.

 

[iDriveFerraris]

T50RP's or Beyerdynamic DT880s? (250 ohm) both will be amped by Fiio E11

 

[micmacmo]

Armaegis, sounds like an interesting project. Care to share what the recipient baffle and cups will be? Open or closed?

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

Armaegis, sounds like an interesting project. Care to share what the recipient baffle and cups will be? Open or closed?

 
I'll put up some pics later... it's semi-closed. Big clue: It has bass vents and also a front baffle port just like the T50rp.

 
edit: for those curious, this was my last crazy transplant... www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554183/

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

... Now the 3 questions:
 
1. What improvement can I expect from burning in? My first impression was of an horrendous ringing, probably from the cup. After a few hours of pink noise I'm less aware of that but still find the FR restricted and the whole sound muffled and just generally poor.
 
2. Would the 840 earcups suggested as a replacement be likely to be any more comfortable?. Do they actually surround the ear or simply crush it like the Fostex?
 
3. How can I remove the connection to the ear cup? I've tried moving it back and forth but it doesn't come out in any position. Anyone know why this connection is so poor (and stubborn)? 
 
To put all this in context, my regular phone is an LCD-2 (Rev1). I love the sound but was curious after all these posts to see whether the Fostex could actually live up to its hype. I can't say I'm disappointed as I didn't know what to expect, but what I've got is far from anything I could actually listen to with pleasure. In fact right now I'm finding it hard to imagine that any amount of burn-in or modification could bring the T50RP to a point of comparison with the LCD-2, as has been suggested.

if you've read all these posts (entire thread), then you should be aware of the incremental mods & measurements thread - see graph #59 & compare against lcd-2 measurements further down:   http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements.  btw, no one has suggested that mere burn-in will bring t50rp to sonic quality of lcd-2.
 
to answer your questions (via my own experience with 2 sets of t50rp):
1. not much, really
2. 840 pads provide greater depth & internal width - you can increase the depth by stuffing rolled cotton at the 'back' of the earpad - you'll probably gain an extra 1/4" to 1/2" all around (width, height, depth).
3. when new, the cable is very firmly attached to the jack - first rotate it to the unlocked position (cable end points to the back of the cup, not downwards), then pull straight out firmly. 
 
next, use a bit of deoxit (or other electronics contact cleaner) and apply to the trs 3.5mm plug.  insert, rotate, remove, insert, rotate, remove ... several times so that the jack contacts & plug contacts are thoroughly cleaned.  this should ameliorate the intermittent dropout situation.

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

 
I'll put up some pics later... it's semi-closed. Big clue: It has bass vents and also a front baffle port just like the T50rp.

 
edit: for those curious, this was my last crazy transplant... www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554183/

wow ... great  superlative job there, Armaegis.

 

[Armaegis]

edit : weird double post

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I'll put up some pics later... it's semi-closed. Big clue: It has bass vents and also a front baffle port just like the T50rp.

edit: for those curious, this was my last crazy transplant... www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554183/

Beautiful transplant job, Armaegis, and a great pictorial , too! Thanks

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armaegis /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
So now my other dillema, I'm not sure if I can go through with the intended transplant. It will require significant modding of the donor baffle (aka: go nuts with the dremel) as well as trimming off excess plastic on the T50rp driver, and even then I'm not even sure if I can get the whole driver to fit into the cup. I *might* at most have 1mm clearance, or more likely negative clearance unless I dremel some notches into the cup too... But nothing venture nothing gained? hmm...

 
 
 

Originally Posted by micmacmo /img/forum/go_quote.gif

Armaegis, sounds like an interesting project. Care to share what the recipient baffle and cups will be? Open or closed?

 
 

 
I'll put up some pics later... it's semi-closed. Big clue: It has bass vents and also a front baffle port just like the T50rp. 

 
edit: for those curious, this was my last crazy transplant... www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554183/

 
 
So I recently acquired a headphone that has similar bass vents and a baffle port...
 
 

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!

 
 
The problem however, is that the cup isn't as big as I thought it would be. 
 
 

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!

Here's the rear of the baffle... (note the small white square at the bottom which is a baffle port)

 
 
and here's the same shot with a piece of paper that I traced the T50rp driver onto...

 

 
See my dilemma? Now the camera angle actually makes it look worse. The paper is *just* barely inside, and if I trim a bit more off the sides then I can use at least 2 of the 6 screws that hold the baffle onto the cup, assuming that the thickness even fits in the cup. And I'm likely going to have to remove the entry jack because I don't think I'll have space for it.
 
So... do you guys think I should go for it? To even start down this path requires irreversible changes to both headphones. At least with my early Phiaton transplant it could be undone, and my Sextett transplant (unfinished) was with bare SFI drivers and an empty Sextett shell. This potential project is hacking apart two perfectly good headphones... 

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

...  
So... do you guys think I should go for it? To even start down this path requires irreversible changes to both headphones. At least with my early Phiaton transplant it could be undone, and my Sextett transplant (unfinished) was with bare SFI drivers and an empty Sextett shell. This potential project is hacking apart two perfectly good headphones... 

 
if budget is not an overriding concern, then i'd say 'go for it' ... the rest of us will be looking forward to your post-modding assessment ... and enviously at your skill (as obviously reflected by your photos).

 

[whitefero]

They do look great