[Dyaems]

just got my pair of t50rp few days ago... everything is stock and first impression... uncomfortable. the clamping is fine sideways but the problem is with the headband, it presses the top of my head (i hate that in headphones) and i get abit dizzy at some point of time. it also gets hot after 30 minutes of listening, which is bad for me because i live in a warm country. i can wear the other headphones i have much longer and they are far more comfortable than the t50rp. i may need to do the headband mod LFF provided x pages before to solve this problem i just hope it doesn't look bulky for an already bulky headphone when i wear it with the mod. i also have the srh 840 and fa003 pads are coming my way to change the stock pads if needed to have more comfortability-- doesnt get hot as fast as the stock pads.
 
the sound is pretty decent though, very good microdetail retrieval, non-fatiguing highs, sss/ess/shh sibilance is never present. very good instrument separation and imaging as well. i also tried throwing some poorly recorded (harsh treble basically) pop songs and it is still somewhat pleasant to hear those songs with the t50rp. although there is a peak in the 4-6k region (not sure, just guessing lol) but that almost went away after an hour of using the t50rp.
 
i am using a dx100 as a source/amp for now. maybe the dx100 is doing all these things because people here mentioned that the stock sounds really bad? maybe and maybe not. also, not sure if i want to build or buy an amp for it because the dx100 can drive it quite well.
 
i think for me this just needs impactful bass and a bit of treble sparkle and im temporarily set. i only added the clay thing BMF sent to me (and other materials too, i should thank BMF for that in this thread) for now since i think that is the one that will give minimal change in its sound signature.
 
is it worth 75usd? yeah, definitely for me. but i paid around 130usd for it because of sales tax and shipping so it is not worth it for me.
 
sorry for the wall of text and i hate reading wall of text!

 

[SquareSoftness]

Quote:

just got my pair of t50rp few days ago... everything is stock and first impression... uncomfortable. the clamping is fine sideways but the problem is with the headband, it presses the top of my head (i hate that in headphones) and i get abit dizzy at some point of time. it also gets hot after 30 minutes of listening, which is bad for me because i live in a warm country. i can wear the other headphones i have much longer and they are far more comfortable than the t50rp. i may need to do the headband mod LFF provided x pages before to solve this problem i just hope it doesn't look bulky for an already bulky headphone when i wear it with the mod. i also have the srh 840 and fa003 pads are coming my way to change the stock pads if needed to have more comfortability-- doesnt get hot as fast as the stock pads.
 
the sound is pretty decent though, very good microdetail retrieval, non-fatiguing highs, sss/ess/shh sibilance is never present. very good instrument separation and imaging as well. i also tried throwing some poorly recorded (harsh treble basically) pop songs and it is still somewhat pleasant to hear those songs with the t50rp. although there is a peak in the 4-6k region (not sure, just guessing lol) but that almost went away after an hour of using the t50rp.
 
i am using a dx100 as a source/amp for now. maybe the dx100 is doing all these things because people here mentioned that the stock sounds really bad? maybe and maybe not. also, not sure if i want to build or buy an amp for it because the dx100 can drive it quite well.
 
i think for me this just needs impactful bass and a bit of treble sparkle and im temporarily set. i only added the clay thing BMF sent to me (and other materials too, i should thank BMF for that in this thread) for now since i think that is the one that will give minimal change in its sound signature.
 
is it worth 75usd? yeah, definitely for me. but i paid around 130usd for it because of sales tax and shipping so it is not worth it for me.
 
sorry for the wall of text and i hate reading wall of text!

 
Ouch. From 75 to 130. That is a lot for shipping. I just got my T20RP mkII from B&H for $58. I'm pretty sure they have the same drivers. My initial impressions are pretty much the same as yours. I don't like how it sounds, but of course we are here to hopefully make them sound good.

 

[headphonatic]

Heck I hated the way it sounded at first, they sounded tinny, dry, and dark, the vocals were so emphasized and everything else was practically nonexistent, sorry for ranting.

 

[kalbee]

@Dyaems: I bought mine in stores locally and I paid like $115 (CAD > USD at the time) with the tax. Hope that makes you feel better!
 
And, well, I am one of the few that actually liked the stock form a lot I guess. I like my vocals and don't mind a capella, maybe that's why.

 

[MattTCG]

I will join the t50 club in a few short days!! Would be sooner if not for the danged holiday. Oh well, fireworks and cookouts whoopie!!

 

[Congo5]

  Hi all:
 
Got another pair today to mod for a friend. 
the first ones are 90 days old. shure 840 pads, BMF V8 (mostly). LFF headband suspension..
 
First --thank you BMF for your guides and google doc's
And LFF for the suspension idea... so much better!!!  It is required.
 
 I could not live with a stock pair. They are just bad.
 
 
Thanks

 

[Dyaems]

got abit shocked when my friend showed me how much i should pay, good thing we sorta did a group buy so the shipping cost is lessened. else i might pay more than 150usd for it!
 
i think my friend ordered this at B&H, plus sales tax in NY? and shipping costs from NY to our country.
 
i don't mind it though, as long as the t50rp can be tuned to the sound signature that im looking for without spending too much money on it.
 
Quote:

@Dyaems: I bought mine in stores locally and I paid like $115 (CAD > USD at the time) with the tax. Hope that makes you feel better!
 
And, well, I am one of the few that actually liked the stock form a lot I guess. I like my vocals and don't mind a capella, maybe that's why.

 
Quote:

 
Ouch. From 75 to 130. That is a lot for shipping. I just got my T20RP mkII from B&H for $58. I'm pretty sure they have the same drivers. My initial impressions are pretty much the same as yours. I don't like how it sounds, but of course we are here to hopefully make them sound good.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Heck I hated the way it sounded at first, they sounded tinny, dry, and dark, the vocals were so emphasized and everything else was practically nonexistent, sorry for ranting.

 
The major impression I got was just out of control resonance, leading to a tin-can sort of sound. Deep bass was more present than I expected given Tyll''s 30Hz square wave measurement, but the rest of the range was pretty lousy, even by $75 standards. I agree that the stock comfort also sucks. I did get the feeling that there's a good driver in there trying to get out, though. The headstage for example was wider, deeper, and better defined than even some considerably more expensive dynamics.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I don't remember if I posted this link, earlier. This demonstrates the effects of cutting or boosting certain frequencies. Put on your headphones.
 
http://audio.tutsplus.com/tutorials/mixing-mastering/6-different-frequencies-and-how-to-spot-them/
 
Here's a link for equalization suggestions...Not mine...that may be helpful:
 
http://www.recordingeq.com/Subscribe/tip/tascam.htm
 
I may as well include the Equal Loudness Contours interactive link, too:
 
http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/resources/freqchart/main_display.htm

 

[No_One411]

I'd like to make a shoutout to wje and Bluemonkeyflyer. I bought a pair of modded T50RPs from Wayne(wje), who was very helpful throughout the whole process. I may buy another T50RP in the future and try to mod them myself. They are a phenomenal pair of headphones, and I find them to do almost everything right. Props to Bluemonkeyflyer, who developed the mods. They sound great. I really appreciate all your time and effort in perfecting these mods. 

 

[wje]

Quote:

I'd like to make a shoutout to wje and Bluemonkeyflyer. I bought a pair of modded T50RPs from Wayne(wje), who was very helpful throughout the whole process. I may buy another T50RP in the future and try to mod them myself. They are a phenomenal pair of headphones, and I find them to do almost everything right. Props to Bluemonkeyflyer, who developed the mods. They sound great. I really appreciate all your time and effort in perfecting these mods. 

 
Not a problem.  Though, I'll pass all credit to BMF. For it was his legwork, "never-fail" attitude to keep stepping up to the plate and trying various combinations of mods to concoct the right sound.  On a latest BMF 8.1 build, I did try an alternative component out that I need to measure and see if it is beneficial for use vs. Acoustipack.  I'll share my findings and maybe BMF will be onto an 8.2?  

 
It really doesn't take much - just follow the order of the process.  There are some alternative methods in the approach that one can utilize, too.  
 
And, yes, BMF does deserve a big thank you !  If I had just been handed a pair of BMF 8.1 headphones and not known the price involved, I would provide my impressions based on the experience.  Then, when they told me the cost, I'd have to tell the individual that they were lying because it just couldn't be possible to provide such a headphone, modify it and have all of the sound beauty for the stated price.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

 
i think for me this just needs impactful bass and a bit of treble sparkle and im temporarily set. i only added the clay thing BMF sent to me (and other materials too, i should thank BMF for that in this thread) for now since i think that is the one that will give minimal change in its sound signature.
 

 
Quote:

  Hi all:
 
Got another pair today to mod for a friend. 
the first ones are 90 days old. shure 840 pads, BMF V8 (mostly). LFF headband suspension..
 
First --thank you BMF for your guides and google doc's
And LFF for the suspension idea... so much better!!!  It is required.
 
 I could not live with a stock pair. They are just bad.
 
 
Thanks

 
Quote:

I'd like to make a shoutout to wje and Bluemonkeyflyer. I bought a pair of modded T50RPs from Wayne(wje), who was very helpful throughout the whole process. I may buy another T50RP in the future and try to mod them myself. They are a phenomenal pair of headphones, and I find them to do almost everything right. Props to Bluemonkeyflyer, who developed the mods. They sound great. I really appreciate all your time and effort in perfecting these mods. 

 
Quote:

 
Not a problem.  Though, I'll pass all credit to BMF. For it was his legwork, "never-fail" attitude to keep stepping up to the plate and trying various combinations of mods to concoct the right sound.  On a latest BMF 8.1 build, I did try an alternative component out that I need to measure and see if it is beneficial for use vs. Acoustipack.  I'll share my findings and maybe BMF will be onto an 8.2?  

 
It really doesn't take much - just follow the order of the process.  There are some alternative methods in the approach that one can utilize, too.  
 
And, yes, BMF does deserve a big thank you !  If I had just been handed a pair of BMF 8.1 headphones and not known the price involved, I would provide my impressions based on the experience.  Then, when they told me the cost, I'd have to tell the individual that they were lying because it just couldn't be possible to provide such a headphone, modify it and have all of the sound beauty for the stated price.

 
I appreciate hearing from people who have used my mods as a starting point and succeeded in tweaking their implementation to achieve the sound quality they like best. It is rewarding to know whenever I've helped others in their "quest for the best" DIY mod. The community reaps the benefits when people share their successes, failures, components used, and methods employed. Every DIY'er must take anyone's mod configuration and "make it their own." There are no slam dunks because slight differences in implementation and/or materials used often result in Big sound quality differences - for better or for worse.  Keep on modding and posting your results. Thanks for the kind words, here, and by back channel PM's.  

 

[TK277]

I opened up my Apple earbuds that came with my iPhone for giggles, but the joke was definitely on me. I did laugh, though, at one track... I have the soundtrack from "The Raid: Redemption" and the track "Suicide Music" is a good test track for bass. At 0:40 there's a lyric along the lines of "let the bass boom" and then the bass is extended. On the earbuds it was "let the bass boom" and then nothing, lol! No bass. On the modded Fostex it hit all the way down. Ah, I love it.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Someone asked about how I make a modified bass port, and why. To be clear, I am referring to modifying the cup vents, not the little hole at the top of the baffle on the ear side which I refer to as the baffle port. Note, however, that you can also modify the baffle port as I described in my Google Document that can be found in the headfi WIKI---> T50RP Mod Summary started by Ardilla ---> under BMF V8.1 ---> Google Document #5.

I find that leaving the cup vents in their stock form allows too much venting which causes the bass to be loose and boomy. The bass is uncontrolled, bleeds into the lower midrange, and masks treble detail. While completely sealing the cup vents may work, the down side is that the sound quality may change as the barometric pressure rises and falls.

Making a modified bass port works for me. My method includes 3 components: the stock cup vent felt, electrical tape over the stock cup vent felt, and self-adhesive felt over the electrical tape. To work, all edges must be sealed with glue or silicone. I use GE Silicone II. It is easily removed if you want to change something.

The cup vent felt keeps dust and debris out of the headphones. The electrical tape seals all the cup vent area on the inside except for a small notch cut from the electrical tape to expose about 2x2 mm of the cup vent felt over the center of the lower cup vent slot (1 of 4). Self-adhesive felt over the electrical tape may be unnecessary but I use it in case it imparts some degree of dampening to minimize reflections off the tape. If you decide to use self-adhesive felt, here, you want to cut a notch the same size as the one you cut in the electrical tape and align both notches so your ~ 2x2 mm bass port over the cup vent felt remains patent. Increasing or decreasing the modified bass port by as little as 1 mm can make a difference in the sound quality for better or worse. You must find the size needed for your overall configuration.

Experimenting with various sizes is more easily done on the outside of the cup vents. Once you determine the size you need, you can then create a permanent modified bass port on the inside. The challenge is aligning your tape and/or self-adhesive felt notches exactly over the position needed to expose the desired size and position of your bass port over the lower cup vent slot. I use needles stuck through the outside of the lower cup vent to mark the boundaries of the location where I want my modified bass port to be placed on the inside. A fine tip white permanent marker can then be used on the inside to mark the positions, or location, of your modified bass port indicated by the needles. This makes it easier to align the notches cut from the electrical tape and/or self-adhesive felt that will create your bass port.

Rules of Thumb:

A larger bass port gives more bass. Make it too big and your bass is boomy.

A smaller baffle port gives more bass. Make it too small and you may have pressure equalization problems.

I hope this helps.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Making a modified bass port works for me. My method includes 3 components: the stock cup vent felt, electrical tape over the stock cup vent felt, and self-adhesive felt over the electrical tape. To work, all edges must be sealed with glue or silicone. I use GE Silicone II. It is easily removed if you want to change something.

 
Ah, yes.  Thanks for pointing this out.  At the time, I didn't have silicone in a tube, but did have hot glue.  I had a Q-Tip handy and squirted some hot glue into the area and shaped it with a Q-tip (on side of the vent mod).  Then, when the first side cooled down, I moved onto the 2nd one using the same technique - a little dab of hot glue and then the Q-Tip to shape it into place to hold everything together.
 
Probably, the only benefits of using the hot glue are: 1) It could be less costly, if you have some in supply at home.  2) It will cure quicker and within 2 minutes, you could be stuffing the cups and performing a re-assembly.  You know how us tweakers don't like to wait.