[bluemonkeyflyer]

^^  No, that's part of the pivoting mechanism. 
 
I was replying to headphonatic's question about the headband hanger screws, on each side that hold the cups tightly to the metal hangers. Here's what he needs if he does not want to try repairing them, himself:
 
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/296071.html
 
fullcompass told me last year they can order any replacement parts BUT the prices are usually very high like $22 for 1 ear pad, $21 for a cable, 0.75 for each tiny screw.
 
Earlier, I was replying to leeperry's statement regarding the 4 small baffle-to-cup screws stripping out their receiver threads in the cups.

 

[Coolzo]

After modding my Fostex T50RP, I've found that they can be both flatter and more detailed than a Grado SR225i or Beyerdynamic DT990 (of course, they still have a bit of a mid-bass hump).
 
I used a sort-of combination of the Rastapants and BMF mods, plus perhaps a few of my own touches. The main thing is, though, that I used a combination of Kleenex under the pads (as per BMF) and extra extra cotton in the cups (as per rasta, but a bit more than usual I think).

 
You can also see (albiet with a little effort) in the first picture, that I began to layer silverstone acoustic foam on top of the modeling clay inside of the baffle-end of the cups. (I'm not quite sure if this is standard, but it contributed to the transient response nontheless). In the second picture, you see the Kleenex but also how the pads are mounted; I used 3/4 polyester felt tape/adhesive to join the pads to the baffle. This way, I didn't have to stretch them; as a result, more detail is to be heard, and they are much more comfy.
 
A final picture, displaying again the pad mounting only (without kleenex)

 
Hopefully, this spawns some more ideas (specifically on attachment of the SRH840 pads). I shall dub them... Coolpants XD

 

[devouringone3]

Here's mine:
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
I've had quite a hard time closing the can for the last time, lol. Though when pressing hard the screw holes did manage to align themselves together, and plastic parts gets sealed into and surrounded by plasticine, so it's very much airtight now, and I don't even think I would have the force in my arms to re-open them :/. The cups are very much filled (specially with that big cube of airy foam) so I didn't see the need to add Kleenexe or watt in them.
 
On the exterior they look exactly like a stock T50RP but about 125 grams weightier. I've used very much all of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fostex-T50rp-super-mod-kit-includes-paxmate-newplast-aka-silverstone-/110770524982?clk_rvr_id=345989576139#ht_1122wt_1344 , but no Dynamat.
 
I have taken only one direction and took pauses to re-assemble it and give it a listen only 3 times (doing one cup at the time and panning from left to right to hear the progress), just to make sure I wasn't going in an utterly wrong way. I told myself if it looks nice inside it will sound nice outside.
 
Sound is good but not great. They are not so bassy, but I've definitely killed all the resonance.

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

you're welcome ... and while we all lust for the recipes for the secret sauces, those in the know realize that objectivity is your friend; so if you don't already have one, consider getting a measurement kit from bluemonkeyflyer.  this will greatly aid you in your quest.  <if you do have a measurement tool, please post some graphs>

I do have measurements, but none are proper ones. They give a general un-smoothened graph without display of average... I had posted them, just not the after-cotton. They don't show anything under like 250Hz so that's useless for this case. The overall graph does lean towards a larger bottom though. But besides the point, I understand that my description is can sound objective (read: advertisement) but know that this is no proclamation of great success but of a disaster. And as I quote my brother: "this is horrible!"
In case I forgot to mention, that 'bass' is not good bass.
 
Started taping the vents and HM5 pads arrived today so I will be trying those out too.
 
But as I mentioned previously, I am in the want of one of those kits, I just need to wait a bit till I can actually spend again. I'm still a student.
I also got BMF's post bookmarked so I can actually acquire the parts when I am ready for it.
 
@Coolzo: Cool indeed!

 

[IronSnake]

Quote:

Here's mine:
 

 

 
devouringone3, did you use mild or sharp cheddar cheese?  All kidding aside, what material is that?

 

[devouringone3]

Loll!! Hahaha
 
Hard silicone patch ("silicone rubber"?).
 
Congratulations for taking the time to erase all but one of my many images for your quote of me
 
I weighted/measured approximately (my food balance isn't sensitive enough to do it precisely :/ ) 50 g of Newplast for each cups. That's the graduation where the fat-free cheese is standing at on the picture.

 

[Coolzo]

Devour, now THAT is damping  
 
EDIT: In fact, I think I might add some more to the drivers themselves... (none atm, just stock cloth)...
Quote:

(hellofalotapics)

 

[jgray91]

Quote:

Here's mine:
 

Spoiler: What%20is%20this%20I%20don't%20even...

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  
 
On the exterior they look exactly like a stock T50RP but about 125 grams weightier. I've used very much all of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fostex-T50rp-super-mod-kit-includes-paxmate-newplast-aka-silverstone-/110770524982?clk_rvr_id=345989576139#ht_1122wt_1344 , but no Dynamat.
 
I have taken only one direction and took pauses to re-assemble it and give it a listen only 3 times (doing one cup at the time and panning from left to right to hear the progress), just to make sure I wasn't going in an utterly wrong way. I told myself if it looks nice inside it will sound nice outside.
 
Sound is good but not great. They are not so bassy, but I've definitely killed all the resonance.
 

 

Measurementsssssss.... and more impressions. And material lists..?

 

[devouringone3]

!!
 
Material list is exactly all of this stuff: 
 
"1 packet of Deoxit cloth (for de-corroding the left headphone cable socket)
1 mini-vial of .5ml dielectric silicone grease (protects socket from further corrosion)
25x22cm (9.5x9 inches) Paxmate Plus 4mm adhesive acoustic foam (for both cups and ear-side)
105gm high density Newplast plasticine (may be enough for thin layer on cups also)
8x12cm of stiff 2mm polyester felt (for the back of the driver and vents, cut out up to six 3.7cm² for driver tuning)
4.5x9cm of stiff 2mm polyester felt (to cover driver on ear side if required).
Roll of 3mm double-sided tape for attaching felts to back of driver.
Silicone rubber for making reflex dots (not shown in photo)
5cmx50cm 3M Transpore clear perforated surgical tape (for the back of the drivers, not shown in photo)"
 
(quoted from the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fostex-T50rp-super-mod-kit-includes-paxmate-newplast-aka-silverstone-/110770524982?clk_rvr_id=346009747820#ht_1122wt_1344)
 
Oh yeah and those 8 orange tooth picks used as plasticine guards.
 
I even used the deoxit + silicone grease, but too much of the later one, so I now have a bad ground-loop noise problem somewhere in the headphone connection of the detachable cable, and I'm sure it's caused by the silicone grease. I did manage to remove most of it with Q-Tips but the problem is still slightly there. I listen to the headphones anyway.
 
 
One would expect/suggest that all this dampening would "strangle" the driver, remove all the bass and make up for a "muted" insensitive sound, but it's not the case.
 
The bass is super limited, but when you find a way to increase clamping pressure it becomes super good! and enough to my taste in quantity... although not as deep as my Koda^2 MKII, but definitely of the same tightness and quality.
 

 
More bass than Grados, but about the same bass as a HP-1000 actually. Definitely not the deepest thing but very good. I don't have measurements for my T50RP mod, lol.
 
Treble felt rolled-off to me initially, but now I'm not hearing it as problem anymore, and I even think it's well extended now. Mids are totally T50RP-like I would say, without all the resonance. I lost a lot of sensitivity along the way though and if I don't increase clamping pressure the highs quickly becomes harsh when turning up the volume. With clamping force (I'm putting on me and the headphones a sport headband) though I've just rediscovered my mod and I think it sounds super sweet. Maybe even better than my Koda^2 MKII, which was well reviewed by VictorHalgaard on YouTube.
 
They do not sound as intricate as weird is my reflex dot and sandwiched layers of white felt on top of the driver are.
 
I have not cut a square in the ear-side felt lining of the cups. I used default pads, no tape on the vent. They really look to be stock.

 

[Purpleness]

Just want to give a big thank you to micmacmo.
I completed the rockwool + lens cleaning microfiber mod a couple days ago, and i have to say in thoroughly impressed. 
I used Grodan Rockwool as specified, and unbranded microfiber. Paxmate in the cups "wells" and around the edges. Flush filled with newplast as well. 
The tonality is spot on, highs are crisp but not overbearing, the mids have a very tangible quality, especially with voices. 
The bass is nice, and extends fairly well, I wish there was a tiny bit more of it though (i have the bottom vent fully open, top three closed). 
The soundstage is amazing, instrument separation is spot on! 
 
I was gonna get my T50 paradoxed, but now I don't feel the need to.
 
Thanks micmacmo!!!!

 

[paradoxper]

Quote:

Just want to give a big thank you to micmacmo.
I completed the rockwool + lens cleaning microfiber mod a couple days ago, and i have to say in thoroughly impressed. 
I used Grodan Rockwool as specified, and unbranded microfiber. Paxmate in the cups "wells" and around the edges. Flush filled with newplast as well. 
The tonality is spot on, highs are crisp but not overbearing, the mids have a very tangible quality, especially with voices. 
The bass is nice, and extends fairly well, I wish there was a tiny bit more of it though (i have the bottom vent fully open, top three closed). 
The soundstage is amazing, instrument separation is spot on! 
 
I was gonna get my T50 paradoxed, but now I don't feel the need to.
 
Thanks micmacmo!!!!

Do you have any measurements for comparison to the Paradox?

 

[Purpleness]

I don't have any way to capture measurements unfortunately.

 

[jgray91]

Quote:

Spoiler: Expand%20and%20be%20amazed...sort%20of

 
!!
 
Material list is exactly all of this stuff: 
 
 
INCLUDED
 
1 packet of Deoxit cloth (for de-corroding the left headphone cable socket)
1 mini-vial of .5ml dielectric silicone grease (protects socket from further corrosion)
25x22cm (9.5x9 inches) Paxmate Plus 4mm adhesive acoustic foam (for both cups and ear-side)
105gm high density Newplast plasticine (may be enough for thin layer on cups also)
8x12cm of stiff 2mm polyester felt (for the back of the driver and vents, cut out up to six 3.7cm² for driver tuning)
4.5x9cm of stiff 2mm polyester felt (to cover driver on ear side if required).
Roll of 3mm double-sided tape for attaching felts to back of driver.
Silicone rubber for making reflex dots (not shown in photo)
5cmx50cm 3M Transpore clear perforated surgical tape (for the back of the drivers, not shown in photo)
 
Oh yeah and those 8 orange tooth picks used as plasticine guards.
 
I even used the deoxit + silicone grease, but too much of the later one, so I now have a bad ground-loop noise problem somewhere in the headphone connection of the detachable cable, and I'm sure it's caused by the silicone grease. I did manage to remove most of it with Q-Tips but the problem is still slightly there. I listen to the headphones anyway.
 
(quoted from the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fostex-T50rp-super-mod-kit-includes-paxmate-newplast-aka-silverstone-/110770524982?clk_rvr_id=346009747820#ht_1122wt_1344)
 
One would expect/suggest that all this dampening would "strangle" the driver, remove all the bass and make up for a "muted" insensitive sound, but it's not the case.
 
The bass is super limited, but when you find a way to increase clamping pressure it becomes super good! and enough to my taste in quantity... although not as deep as my Koda^2 MKII, but definitely of the same tightness and quality.
 

 
More bass Grados, but about the same bass as a HP-1000 actually. Definitely not the deepest thing but very good and musical.
 
Treble felt rolled-off to me initially, but now I'm not hearing it as problem anymore, and I think it's fairly well extended now. Mids are totally T50RP-like I would say, without all the resonance. I lost a lot of sensitivity along the way though and if I don't increase clamping pressure the highs quickly becomes harsh when turning up the volume. With clamping force (I'm putting on me and the headphones a sport headband) though I've just rediscovered my mod and I think it sounds evenly. Maybe even better than my Koda^2 MKII.
 

 

Bookmarking this and your previous post. This is too valuable to miss. Should also give me some more insight. Thanks.

 

[devouringone3]

Quote:

Bookmarking this and your previous post. This is too valuable to miss. Should also give me some more insight. Thanks.

 
Wow hey sure, I need to go mow the grass but as soon as it's done, in about 2 hours I'll tell you more, and I can go fairly precise, cause I do remember the effect each layers of modifications had on the sound, starting from stock sound and building up.

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

 
Wow hey sure, I need to go mow the grass but as soon as it's done, in about 2 hours I'll tell you more, and I can go fairly precise, cause I do remember the effect each layers of modifications had on the sound, starting from stock sound and building up.

You should post that on here too