[cce121]

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I got it stock first but i was too excited about all the modding around here,i thought that i can bring it near LCD-2 level with only one time mod then i immediately mod it after one day burn-in so i don't remember how it sound for the first time.
I read many posts about how amazing this T50rp mid is but i never got that feeling until now. The stock T50rp has the mid to die for, i really enjoy it 

.
P/s: I also listen to the headphone before mod, about 3 or 4 hour to get the impression how it sound.

Mind you,these people here are the culprits. 

 

 

[OmarCCX]

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Comfort is subjective. What's comfortable for me might not be comfortable for you, and visa versa.

Exactly, my ears are quite large so I need pads that won't touch my ears. I also had to raise the pads a bit because they were also touching the drivers and after 2 hours it started to hurt. I now know how Dumbo feels. lol
 

 

[painter]

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I switched pads on my stock T50 and compared them a bit after about 20 hours of burn-in. I definitely prefer the stock pads sound. Everything in the middle to upper region sounds more detailed, but with slightly less instrument separation and soundstage compared to the Shure pads. I also found the Shure pads didn't sound quite as lively as the stock pads, especially on drums.  
I'd say, get the Shure pads if you feel like you need better isolation and more comfort. If you're happy with the stock pads, don't give it too much thought and just enjoy them.
 

I thought the same,  but cut out the stock felt right over the driver,   then the sure pads sound incredible.   It makes sense not to have two layers of material on top of the driver.
 
 
What power are people finding is average to make these phones sing?
 
I am up to about 2Vrms which is about 100 mW,   a lot higher than the 98db/mW on the box would indicate.  The mods done are the foam lining, the clay, the felt cut-out, and the sure pads.
 
These headphones have me turned upside down.   First they are inexpensive,  sound amazing.  But the power requirements are odd.   It seems like they want more and more power.   My SET gives up at 1Vrms,  and it gets real expensive building a good SET for much more power than that.  So now I have to decide wether to stick with the O2 or build a huge tube amp or a hybrid.
 
Anyone else measured their power usage with these phones?  What are popular amplifiers for these?
 

 

[Indread]

So I'm wondering, do the more popular mods to the T50RP generally reduce or add soundstage? It seems like the more poplar, more preferred ones, tend toadd stage. I'm not sure what happens to the soundstage as a result.

 

[DeathDomokun]

I've heard of people using old receivers to power these things. It would have been good to read about it before spending $150 on an O2.
The Realistic STA-2200 was one of the receivers mentioned for being hi-fi in the same price as mid-fi receivers, although I don't have any experience with them and I'm just parroting what others have said.

 

[kalbee]

Although I don't own a STA-2200, I can say that my T50RP sounds better on my STA-2000 than say a FiiO E9 or E17. The last two have the size benefit though, don't have space in my room for those large amp:radio.

 

[micmacmo]

 
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Do you have a stock T50, LCD2 or Senn 650 tested on this system?  It's hard to grock what the curve means without a few known "references" to compare curves against...  
 

 
Here's a comparison of the microfiber mod against my stock K701 (as a member of team mid-fi, I have no gold-standard headphones to compare.). I think it reflects much of what people say about the K701: bright, slightly analytical sound, nice mids but with a decided bass roll-off.
 
 
 
Note how smooth the k701 curve is compared to the tight up-and-down fluctuations of the microfiber curve. These minor bumps aren't audible to my ears and I'm not sure why they happen, but they always appear, to varying degrees, with this mod and my measurement rig.
 
If I had to describe the sound of this mod, I'd say it's lush but still detailed. 
 
I chose microfiber because it has some of the best elements of cotton, just more so: very fine filaments, high surface area and relatively pervious to air/sound. I'm not sure that other materials (eg, silk) might not offer similar effects. 
 

 

[mrspeakers]

Interesting...  Thanks for sharing!  Too bad you live so far away, probably never see you at a meet, but would be curious to hear these.

 

[proid]

I've been experimenting with fabric cut from a microfiber dust cloth. These are those square towels that look like face cloths, with a relatively thick pile on both sides. I've taken small squares (3.5 x 3.5 cm^2) of this material and taped it directly over the driver with two-sided tape around the periphery of the driver grate. 
 

 
And here's the FR curve (generated by REW using Panasonic WM-61A mics)
 

 
There's a bit of audible variation between the left and right channels, between 1 kHz and 5 kHz, that I'll have to figure out. But I'm generally pretty pleased with the sound. 
 
Otherwise, the other mods I've included in my current setup have been described elsewhere, specifically:

1. Cup lining: Two strips of AcoustiPack lining the bottom halves of both cups and 1 cm strips of Paxmate lining the walls of the central well of the cups directly behind the driver. 
2. Cup fill: ~2cm-thick absorbent cotton to fill the central well of the cup.  
3. Baffle mass loading: The compartments of the baffle are flush-filled with tungsten putty.
4. Ear side of baffle: B-Quiet (Dynamat equivalent) covering the entire baffle, except over the driver opening. The B-Quiet is covered with adhesive craft felt. Stock dust cover remains over the driver but I removed it from the rest of the driver before applying the B-Quiet.
5. Pads: Fischer 003 pads.
6. Recable: Double entry with Canare mini starquad.
7. Baffle holes (one open per cup), cup vents (felt covered) and driver covering (white material) are all stock.

 
If anyone has (had) a chance to use microfiber, I'd love to hear about your experience. 

Can you post more detail pictures of the fabric?

 

[OmarCCX]

Quote:

I thought the same,  but cut out the stock felt right over the driver,   then the sure pads sound incredible.   It makes sense not to have two layers of material on top of the driver.
 
 
What power are people finding is average to make these phones sing?
 
I am up to about 2Vrms which is about 100 mW,   a lot higher than the 98db/mW on the box would indicate.  The mods done are the foam lining, the clay, the felt cut-out, and the sure pads.
 
These headphones have me turned upside down.   First they are inexpensive,  sound amazing.  But the power requirements are odd.   It seems like they want more and more power.   My SET gives up at 1Vrms,  and it gets real expensive building a good SET for much more power than that.  So now I have to decide wether to stick with the O2 or build a huge tube amp or a hybrid.
 
Anyone else measured their power usage with these phones?  What are popular amplifiers for these?
 

 
Might try that someday.

I also tried the T50s with a Sony receiver and it wasn't providing enough power. My audioengine D1 drives them better, but I'm not a massive fan on the D1's amp section. It warms the sound a bit too much, so I might consider getting an M-Stage later on.
 
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

I've heard of people using old receivers to power these things. It would have been good to read about it before spending $150 on an O2.
The Realistic STA-2200 was one of the receivers mentioned for being hi-fi in the same price as mid-fi receivers, although I don't have any experience with them and I'm just parroting what others have said.

While the Objective2 is a good amp, a vintage receiver can do most hungry headphones much better justice.  The receiver will add some coloration to the sound - which is up to the listener as to whether they like the final sound, or note.  However, the downside of the vintage gear is the lifespan that it could or couldn't have.  If it's already 30 years old, and the caps haven't been touched, it could be ready for an overhaul.
 

 
Quote:

Quote:
 
Might try that someday.

I also tried the T50s with a Sony receiver and it wasn't providing enough power. My audioengine D1 drives them better, but I'm not a massive fan on the D1's amp section. It warms the sound a bit too much, so I might consider getting an M-Stage later on.
 

The headphone-out section in more modern-day receivers is not very optimal.  As others have pointed out, many of them have their own op-amp circuits, which can kill the sound.  That's why many of us have utilized speaker taps to run hungry headphones off of the speaker output section instead.
 

 

[OmarCCX]

How do I remove the 

dust cover felt on the ear side?

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

How do I remove the 

dust cover felt on the ear side?xacto 

exacto or box cutter.  Just trace around the border of the driver and cut the square out, leaving the dust screen in place.

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

While the Objective2 is a good amp, a vintage receiver can do most hungry headphones much better justice.  The receiver will add some coloration to the sound - which is up to the listener as to whether they like the final sound, or note.  However, the downside of the vintage gear is the lifespan that it could or couldn't have.  If it's already 30 years old, and the caps haven't been touched, it could be ready for an overhaul.
 
The headphone-out section in more modern-day receivers is not very optimal.  As others have pointed out, many of them have their own op-amp circuits, which can kill the sound.  That's why many of us have utilized speaker taps to run hungry headphones off of the speaker output section instead.
 

There are a number of high power affordable solutions, though, besides new or vintage receivers.  The Audio-GD NFB-12 is a really good DAC/Amp for an absurdly low price, Schitt makes great high power mid price gear, etc.  The T50RP can take way more power than your ear could tolerate, but anything that puts out more than 100mW at 50ohms should be OK.
 

 

[headphonatic]

Does acoustic foam on the baffle really help a lot? Over the clay fill.
P.S; I combined the DAC destroyer to my O2, and I decided to plug my T50rp's directly into the DAC Destroyer, and it powered and sounded better? Am I going insane?