[micmacmo]

I use Monoprice cable. My concern would be the mass and thickness of the premium stuff. Including insulation, it's about 7 mm thick and correspondingly heavy. Perhaps the slightly lower-quality but lighter-gauge stuff from Monoprice would serve you better?
 
Quote:

 Wait.  Can I just buy a cable like this...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021815&p_id=5598&seq=1&format=2#description
 
 
...and simply strip off the RCA ends of the cable and solder them to the drivers?

 

 

[micmacmo]

Depending on how DIY you want to get, you can make your own DIY 3-D printer so you can print your own DIY cups. 

 
As a starting point for the cups, here are the original Thunderpant's cup dimensions that Smeggy posted.
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

see page 297 post # 4452
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/4440#post_7865719
Quote:

So I got my SRH-840 pads in yesterday.  Had a ******* helluva time getting them on, but I managed it after about 10 minutes.  These are waaayyy more comfortable than the stock pads.  Even moreso when I stuff some tissues under the back of them.
 
Could just be me, but it seems to open up the treble a little more?  I'm not noticing muffled treble as much as before...but I'm not prepared to do A/B testing with the stock pads since they're such a pain in the ass to switch.

 

 

[yipcanjo]

 
Quote:

 
Anyone interested in a group buy of some baby lambs?  

Funniest thing I've read all day!
 
Quote:

I use Monoprice cable. My concern would be the mass and thickness of the premium stuff. Including insulation, it's about 7 mm thick and correspondingly heavy. Perhaps the slightly lower-quality but lighter-gauge stuff from Monoprice would serve you better?


 

Great point. Thanks

 

[snakeeater69]

Quote:

 


 Wait.  Can I just buy a cable like this...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021815&p_id=5598&seq=1&format=2#description
 

...and simply strip off the RCA ends of the cable and solder them to the drivers?

Do not use Monoprice cable! I did a re-cable with one of their "Premier" cable which is suppose to be their best cable and do not like the how they sound. These cable muddy up the details compare to the stock cables. The cables you are looking at are very thick and stiff. The Premier version are thick but not as stiff. I had to strip mine and braided the cable. Re-cabling with this cable was not worth it because it sounded worst then stock.
 
Do not buy the 1/4 to 1/8 adapter from them to use with the stock T50RP cable. Those are pure crap and the sound will cut-off like crazy because it fits very loose. Get the Sennheiser' 1/4 to 1/8 ($~6)  if you don't want to pay for Grados.
 
If you are going to do a re-cable, make sure that it will improve or at least be equal to the stock cable. I'm in the process of redoing my cable again once I get my silver plated cables gets here.  Dale Audio has the best price on Neutrik 3.5mm TRS Plug and is free shipping. Buy some heat shrink while you are at it too since it is also pretty cheap. For cable sleeving just get some 550 lb paracord color of your choice. Do not get Techflex Pet-Flexo because it is prone to microphonic. If you just want a cable with 3.5mm, just get the V-Moda cable that LFF or somebody mention. It is more simple and cheaper.
 
Cheap but decent route:
Navships 26gauge silver plated copper 25'  $7 Navship ebay /or (conare or mogami cable, the cable itself isn't too expensive but the shipping is). I went with the Silver Plated Copper.
Neutrik 3.5mm $1.35 (might as well order a couple more to make some mini to mini with all the extra cable)
Paracord 550lb 50' $5 amazon or Braided Nylon Sleeve $7 from furryletters ebay
 
Just letting you know so you don't make the same mistakes as I.

 

[yipcanjo]

 
Quote:

Do not use Monoprice cable! I did a re-cable with one of their "Premier" cable which is suppose to be their best cable and do not like the how they sound. These cable muddy up the details compare to the stock cables. The cables you are looking at are very thick and stiff. The Premier version are thick but not as stiff. I had to strip mine and braided the cable. Re-cabling with this cable was not worth it because it sounded worst then stock.
 
Do not buy the 1/4 to 1/8 adapter from them to use with the stock T50RP cable. Those are pure crap and the sound will cut-off like crazy because it fits very loose. Get the Sennheiser' 1/4 to 1/8 ($~6)  if you don't want to pay for Grados.
 
If you are going to do a re-cable, make sure that it will improve or at least be equal to the stock cable. I'm in the process of redoing my cable again once I get my silver plated cables gets here.  Dale Audio has the best price on Neutrik 3.5mm TRS Plug and is free shipping. Buy some heat shrink while you are at it too since it is also pretty cheap. For cable sleeving just get some 550 lb paracord color of your choice. Do not get Techflex Pet-Flexo because it is prone to microphonic. If you just want a cable with 3.5mm, just get the V-Moda cable that LFF or somebody mention. It is more simple and cheaper.
 
Cheap but decent route:
Navships 26gauge silver plated copper 25'  $7 Navship ebay /or (conare or mogami cable, the cable itself isn't too expensive but the shipping is). I went with the Silver Plated Copper.
Neutrik 3.5mm $1.35 (might as well order a couple more to make some mini to mini with all the extra cable)
Paracord 550lb 50' $5 amazon or Braided Nylon Sleeve $7 from furryletters ebay
 
Just letting you know so you don't make the same mistakes as I.

Ok.... I was *just about* to call BS on this "lower quality cable = lower quality sound" theory, and then I had something funny happened: the sound on my work PC ceased functioning.  I could plug my headphones into my phone -- works fine -- but nothing from the PC.  I finally removed the 6' mini-jack extension cable I had plugged in (from Radio Shack, no less) and plugged my headphones directly into the sound card.  Voila!  Sound comes back...and oh my gosh it sounds a LOT better.  Not only that, but I'm getting quite a bit more volume.
 
I stand corrected.  My apologies, Snakeeater69.  I will certainly heed your advice now
 
Thanks.
 
 

 

[symphonic]

Hi rus,
I can't say too much because I only have about 5 pairs around to audition (AD700, Roland RL50?, Superlux 668b, Fostex T50RP, Pioneer M390). I can certainly say that the Superlux are fatiguing to my ears, unless I EQ down the treble. These Fostex already sound much more soothing in comparison. The AD700 are not fatiguing to me at all.
 
RE: Amps, I don't think that you need one. On a Sansa Clip (or Ipod etc) you can pull 500 mV or so which is enough to drive the Fostex and Superlux 668b to 104 dB. That is much too loud for extended listening. (AD700 will go even louder). 
 
I haven't started the mod process but it seems pretty foolproof. Add some dampening to your tastes and you have it!
Quote:

I hope you Fostex guys don't mind me changing the subject just a little, but...
I'm wondering whether to Mod T50RPs, or buy other Brand?
 
I need to buy a neutral, non-fatiguing set of HPs. I will have just one set, no amp (unless I buy one (ie: xonar DG card or Fiio E7)) and I like folk and rock. Price range $50-150.
 
I can soldier but don’t have any kind of testing meters or experience. Is there a basic, tried and tested set of mods I could do to the T50RP, once, with reasonable chance for success; or would I be better off to buy something else? Do the T50RPs require an amp?
 
I almost order the Fischer FA-003s, but they are @$200 shipped.
 
I also considered the Senn HD518 for @$100, SRH-840 @130, and AKG k271 @$140
I’ve heard the ATH-M50, Ultrasone, Superlux, are aggressive, more fatiguing HPs? Is that true?
 
Thanks for any suggestions.

It's cool that you have the same idea of making the cup open/closed convertible. I want to put a DT880 style headband attached to the baffle section and have several cup configs that can plug on, probably using magnets (I love those rare earth powerful ones) or something along those lines. No screws to strip, if i can help it.
 
One thing I've noticed that's annoying already is how damn heavy the head band is. I know that weight gives a sense of quality (to justify price) but lighter is  better as far as headphone comfort goes.
 
My dad does wood turning and has already offered to turn cups for me. I'll probably try a few different volumes and also compare to rubber end caps which seem like a great idea. I have some concerns about the natural resonances of wood.
 
Quote:

I'll sketch up something very rough, but of approximately the right dimensions and see if I can get a quote sometime in the next week and a bit. If it's not prohibitively expensive (I'm hoping for something of the same order of price as the stock headphones, fingers crossed) I'll start drawing up a design. My plan at that point is to show you guys on the forums, take on suggestions, revise it, show you again... etc. etc. There's lots of variables that I just don't know how to pick - what's the best driver angle, for example? How big a volume should the cups have? These are questions I hope you guys will have some ideas about. This way it will be a community based project, and the design will be completely open. There's still the problem of what pads to choose, but I'm getting ahead of myself - don't get your hopes up until we see the price : )
 
Oh, what did you mean about graphics?
 
 
 
@Sharkz - just saw your post. Yes, you could well be right about CNC being a better option. I'm jumping on the rapid prototype option simply because we've used it before and had a good experience with it on fiddly little parts. Something like a headphone cup might be just as easy to produce on a CNC machine, in which case maybe some other interested party might like to chase that option up, cost permitting.
 


 

 

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

Ok.... I was *just about* to call BS on this "lower quality cable = lower quality sound" theory, and then I had something funny happened: the sound on my work PC ceased functioning.  I could plug my headphones into my phone -- works fine -- but nothing from the PC.  I finally removed the 6' mini-jack extension cable I had plugged in (from Radio Shack, no less) and plugged my headphones directly into the sound card.  Voila!  Sound comes back...and oh my gosh it sounds a LOT better.  Not only that, but I'm getting quite a bit more volume.
 
I stand corrected.  My apologies, Snakeeater69.  I will certainly heed your advice now
 
Thanks.
 

 
While I am generally a cable skeptic, long cable runs of cheap material with no shielding (such as a generic rat shack extension) can pick up a lot of interference and may have unintended resistance/inductance/etc.

 

[DaBomb77766]

 
Quote:

see page 297 post # 4452
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/4440#post_7865719


 

Oh, that's what I did - still took awhile.  I'm hoping that putting it on once will stretch it out a little bit?

 

[Hennyo]

I put mine on once. I never wanna take if off again. =-) Every time I think about modding it in another way, I just end up thinking "nah."
 
;D

 

[DaBomb77766]

Quote:

I put mine on once. I never wanna take if off again. =-) Every time I think about modding it in another way, I just end up thinking "nah."
 
;D

I have seen some interesting earpad mods, though, involving either a sock or sewing an extra strip of leather or fabric to the flaps to make them longer...so that you could wedge more stuff underneath the pads.

 

[Hennyo]

I was playing with a set of RP2 I sold today, I found the easy way to be able to stuff more under the pads, (make them even higher) was to duct tape a small part of the pad to the cup. =) It's applicable to any of the pads. And it's the same as 'socking' it on. ; ) They sounded pretty damn good.
 
Taa Daa! It was helpful for the stock pads which slip off ridiculously easy after paper toilet roll (roll into cylinder for strength) stuffing them.

 

[yipcanjo]

 
Quote:

I subsequently made a few easy enhancements once I got my measurement gear setup that addressed these issues (forget where I posted those):
 
1) Use about 6 "regular" cotton balls teased apart per cup to fill the whole space in the cup.  This gets rid of a resonance at 1K that overdoes the mids.
 
2) Adjust the tape so the vent is about 80% closed.  This maximizes bass extension with these pads (don't forget two pieces of stacked paxmate on the rear edge of the pads to get some tilt).
 
3) Remove the craft felt and leave the driver bare, except for a piece of electrical tape on the center square on the inside of the driver.  This fixes the treble balance.
 
That should do it.  Let me know how it works for you.

So.... those changes (along with removing the 6' mini-jack extension cable I had) really helped a lot.  Mids are where I like them, highs have come back awesomely, and the all-around sound is less "weird" than before.  One issue, though, is that I feel I've lost a fair amount of bass extension.  Which of those changes would've reduced the bass, do you think? 
 
I changed...:

1. 3 of the 4 vent slats are now covered with tape, but nothing else on top of that vent area (foam, paxmate, etc.)
2. a piece of electrical tape over the middle square (of 9 total) of the modeling clay / inside part of the driver
3. no craft felt
4. teased about 5 cotton balls in each ear cup
5. slightly raised back portion of the ear pads
    

 Thoughts?

 

[snakeeater69]

^ Reduce the amount of cotton balls. The electrical type reflex dot also seems to take a lot of the bass away too.

 

[b0wl1ng]

Craft felt covering the whole of the back of the driver is what makes this mod, everything else with the exception of adding mass (of your choice) , though less is more in my opinion, to kill resonance is peripheral,