[PhaedraCorruption]

Quote:

A quick Google search found several sites with information on the frequency range for sibilance. They place sibilance somewhere between 4k-7k hz. So, my hearing loss above 15k hz has nothing to do with not hearing it. Maybe I'm just not as sensitive to sibilance as some.
 

That's odd, I too thought it was in the upper frequencies. 
 
Anyways, I lost the stock felt months ago, but I did put something much like it over the port. I'll try with only 1 layer and then I'll try with just electrical tape as a reflex dost, I'll repost back with results. 

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

A quick Google search found several sites with information on the frequency range for sibilance. They place sibilance somewhere between 4k-7k hz. So, my hearing loss above 15k hz has nothing to do with not hearing it. Maybe I'm just not as sensitive to sibilance as some.
 

It's not quite so simple as that. The harmonics have a strong influence on your ablity to accurately discern the sound of the fundamental.
 
If we're talking purely about sinewaves, then yes. But real tones are a construction of the fundamental frequency plus a whackton (that's a scientific term folks) of harmonics of varying amplitudes. Think of the sound as an envelope carrying a package of higher order harmonics inside it. If you can't hear the highest frequencies, you still get the bulk of the envelope but lose some detail and shaping.
 

 

[200poundsofamp]

Quote:

 

 
I think you just described why modding these things will eventually drive a person completely insane.
 
It's been my experience that when you boost the treble on these things, you boost everything 7k and up. So you inevitably get some sibilance with it.
 
I've had the best luck just using foam or felt, IMO a reflex dot isn't needed at all using the stock pads, it's very easy to get these sounding zingy just by damping the driver and closing off some of the vent. But, best to find out for yourself.

 

[200poundsofamp]

btw, have you guys seen how the paradoxes measure? Except for the channel imbalance (I call shenanigans) they look exceptional.

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

Quote:

That's odd, I too thought it was in the upper frequencies. 
 
Anyways, I lost the stock felt months ago, but I did put something much like it over the port. I'll try with only 1 layer and then I'll try with just electrical tape as a reflex dost, I'll repost back with results. 

 
Tried it with only 1 layer, not much difference, but with electrical tape as a reflex dot, I found that bass extension was very depleted. Although now sibilance is no longer an issue. 
 
Hm, starting to regret removing the stock stuff behind the driver. 

 

[applepancakes]

-recabled using cheapy 24 gauge wire i had lying around. had to route out through the vents cause of the size
 
-hooked it up to a topping ta2020, lots of background noise when nothing is playing. too much soo. tried different psu, cables, dac etc. no diff.
 
-hooked it up to ordo ta2020 amp, noticable but much much less noise than topping. muchmuch better than ordo's headjack that's built into it. getting much more bass sub 100hz.
 
-still getting a channel imbalance i think. i thought recabling would get rid of it all together. i didn't remove the old cables, but i suspect that that plastic block where cables are soldered together might be in part due to the problem. might try to remove it or at least remvoe the old cables i left in there and plug up some holes in around where the 3.5mm jack was. channel imbalance is really really annoying.

 

[takili]

   New to the party and getting back into DIY audio after a very long break, Hi to everyone! I have I think been very fortunate to discover this forum and this thread in particular!
   Having now aquired the relevant beasty's and spent some time breaking in and getting a feel for the unmodded sound, (and I must say being very impressed with how these sound in their raw state), I have done a couple of the very basic mods and yes, WOW, again!
   As I first started reading the thread from the last page I soon realised that in order to get up to speed I would need some background info, so went back to page one, hence I have started with blue tack and felt. Whilst reading forward, I also worked backwards in order that I could see where the present state of the art is up to. In consequence I have some old ideas and some new ideas incorporated into my first efforts.

The port is currently about 85-90% closed with duct tape.
The reflex dot definitely helps the base extension for me.

 
Adding a roll of cotton at the rear of the stock pads to move my ears away from the drivers helped reduce harshness in the HF. So many thanks to all for the above suggestions.
   Impressions after listening to the above is that I have been able to significantly improve over stock. Bass is extended, more punchy and clearer, Mids are more detailed and less muddy, presence and separation is more defined and HF is smoother. That's from listening to a mixture of Folk, Rock, Pop and Jazz.
   My source unfortunately is in no way doing these justice, consisting of a mere Sony Playstation and the speaker out from a pair of Bose media speakers Even so, I am impressed with what I am hearing at present. An SSMH amp is on the building board and a Shigiaclone is in the wings. I am looking forward to the improvements...
   Next on the list is to try and dampen the cup resonance more and to move on from the Blutac to Newplast modelling clay in the Baffle channels. Was it Dogwan who was wondering about the purpose of these channels? My own opinion, (Engineering background!) is that the webs that you see help stiffen the baffle. It's easier to mould thinner plastic I would think. I am looking forward to finding out how it went with the spray on absorber.
Regards to all
   

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Too bad you don't still have the stock black bass port felt to put back on. Maybe someone on the forum has some they don't need?
 
I just took off the 1/2 layer and left only one full layer of Transpore across the naked backs of the drivers. I put everything back in as described a few posts back. I get tons of deep, controlled bass without bloom into the midrange, clear midrange vocals/acoustic strings, and nice treble details. Again, this is with my ears, preferences, biases, and equipment. It is actually too bass heavy for my tastes so I will put the 1/2 layer of Transpore back on.
 
Good luck.
 
     Quote:

 
Tried it with only 1 layer, not much difference, but with electrical tape as a reflex dot, I found that bass extension was very depleted. Although now sibilance is no longer an issue. 
 
Hm, starting to regret removing the stock stuff behind the driver. 

 

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

btw, have you guys seen how the paradoxes measure? Except for the channel imbalance (I call shenanigans) they look exceptional.

Just going off the graphs, I think they roll off a bit too much after 100Hz (into the mids and treble), especially with that large 10KHz peak. That's just nitpicking, as I'm sure they sound fantastic.
 

 

[applepancakes]

ok so i think i had the drivers rotated the wrong way. it does seem to make a diff for balance (i have it such that the wires are nearest the bottom of the cup now). what is was the default position?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Baffle vent at the top. 
 
Quote:

ok so i think i had the drivers rotated the wrong way. it does seem to make a diff for balance (i have it such that the wires are nearest the bottom of the cup now). what is was the default position?

 

 

[Raguvian]

B&H has the T50RP for $74 with free shipping. I hope I'll like it!

 

[leeperry]

 
I think all pads have a huge effect on bass, but they vary based on the mod and the seal, so it's hard to generalize and say "this is the perfect pad."

So the O2 earpads don't really have recessed mids after all? You make peremptory statements, show us measurements then say that all those earpads are highly dependent on the cups damping...I'd like to try the O2(especially the improved MK2 black version) but g*ddamn, I'm not paying $155 for recessed mids, however comfy they could be

I hope I'll like it!

You never know

There are 4 surrounding the driver, 1 at each corner. The only one fully open is the one at the 11 o'clock position if you have the solder points at the 6 o'clock position. I think of it as a pressure equalization vent.

 
I think it's here to avoid having moisture building within the cups.

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

Quote:

Just going off the graphs, I think they roll off a bit too much after 100Hz (into the mids and treble), especially with that large 10KHz peak. That's just nitpicking, as I'm sure they sound fantastic.
 

Always hard to go by a frequency response test.   I listened to these and they were acoustically very flat.  
 
Note that Tyll uses a test measurement head and then applies a transform to map what is measured in the ear to roughly what it would look like outside the ear (hope I got that right Tyll).  My setup skips that, as I don't try to measure from within the ear, simply what arrives at the ear.  There are reasons why Tyll's might be more accurate, but I've not personally felt I really am swayed it's a lot better...  Which probably means I don't understand it.  
 

 
 

 

[rawrster]

Can anyone point  me to the link of the BMF#6? I tried a search and it didn't get to it so I must have missed it and I don't exactly want to search page by page..