[Hennyo]

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Just give them a chance to stretch out a bit. After taking mine off several times, I would say they are even easier to put on than the stock pads.
 
I have finally finished my major project of the past few weeks. Now I don't see many mentions of recabling around here, but I am really happy with how mine turned out. I was honestly never a huge fan of the single termination and wanted to go to something more traditional. I would up using 24ga silver plated copper silicon wire covered in 3mm nylon rope. The four wires are braided using a flat litz braid and the cable is terminated in a 1/4" Neutrik jack. Overall I am very happy with how it turned out. It sounds great and looks even better to me. The biggest problem of the whole ordeal was feeding the bare wire into the jacket. Once that was done, it was just a matter of getting my girlfriend to braid the wires for me and drilling some holes for insertion into the cups.
 
Even though the cable is now substantially thicker than the original cable (to be expected with four wires now), the cable is still just as flexible as the original. This was very important to me after comparing the stock cable to a recable I performed on my Grados using some Mogami Mini Quad, which is about 3x stiffer than this silicon wire.
 
Sadly my main computer is down with a whole host of problems I have been working through tonight, but hopefully I will be able to get some pictures posted up in the next few days if anyone is interested.
 

NOW you've got my attention! (Looking forward - Pics please!
 

 

[KneelJung]

 
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Maybe try flipping the flap inside-out then wrap it around the edges after placing it on the baffle like that?

Yeah that's how I get the stock ones on, and the 02 pads from my woodied pair too, but that method isnt working to well. I set them aside for a while but I'm going to give it another go before I go to bed.
 
 
Edit: Success!
 
They are both on, sound great. Definitekly better than my stock pads and I like them better than my O2 pads from my woodied pair. I like the 02 pads on my Martypants, just wasnt sold on them paired with my plastic pair.

 

[Nevod]

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The Russian guy has a point. Most definitely BA what he's doing. I wonder if fostex tuned the magnet plate/'shield' that way on purpose though... To give it a more cohesive(?) analytical sound that the lcd doesn't have. (That is the lcd = different in the way it analyzes the sound... qh (Questhate) kind of summed the difference between the two drivers presentation of detail on page 246 or something...

Sorry, what means "BA what he's doing"?
IIRC, Fostex stated that T50RP driver's construction is optimised for maximum sensitivity. The metal plates capture magnetic fields emanating from rear side of magnets and focus it in these ridges. The milled mod should have lower efficiency due to that there's less path for magnetic flux..
 

 

[drez]

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Just give them a chance to stretch out a bit. After taking mine off several times, I would say they are even easier to put on than the stock pads.
 
I have finally finished my major project of the past few weeks. Now I don't see many mentions of recabling around here, but I am really happy with how mine turned out. I was honestly never a huge fan of the single termination and wanted to go to something more traditional. I would up using 24ga silver plated copper silicon wire covered in 3mm nylon rope. The four wires are braided using a flat litz braid and the cable is terminated in a 1/4" Neutrik jack. Overall I am very happy with how it turned out. It sounds great and looks even better to me. The biggest problem of the whole ordeal was feeding the bare wire into the jacket. Once that was done, it was just a matter of getting my girlfriend to braid the wires for me and drilling some holes for insertion into the cups.
 
Even though the cable is now substantially thicker than the original cable (to be expected with four wires now), the cable is still just as flexible as the original. This was very important to me after comparing the stock cable to a recable I performed on my Grados using some Mogami Mini Quad, which is about 3x stiffer than this silicon wire.
 
Sadly my main computer is down with a whole host of problems I have been working through tonight, but hopefully I will be able to get some pictures posted up in the next few days if anyone is interested.
 

Excellent, would be interested in how to retain wires/strain relief with dual entry.  My hookup wires are cut - no going back.
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

KneelJung (I love that screen name), Someone on this forum responded to this same question I asked a few weeks ago; I don't remember who. He said to roll the flaps back, position the 840 pad against the baffle, and simply roll the flap over the lip of the cup, holding it in place while working your way around the cup. It's easy, effective, and works every time without stressing the flaps.
 
No, wait. You didn't ask this question, did you? The reply system won't let me copy and paste this reply to the OT and I'm too lazy to re-type it where it belongs.
 
Edit: I just read back a few posts. It was you and you already got the same suggestion.
 
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Yeah that's how I get the stock ones on, and the 02 pads from my woodied pair too, but that method isnt working to well. I set them aside for a while but I'm going to give it another go before I go to bed.
 
 
Edit: Success!
 
They are both on, sound great. Definitekly better than my stock pads and I like them better than my O2 pads from my woodied pair. I like the 02 pads on my Martypants, just wasnt sold on them paired with my plastic pair.

 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

That is modding with a capital "M"!
 
I looked at the drivers several months ago and wondered why the holes are so small and whether or not enlarging them would improve the sound, or not. Then I read somewhere that Fostex had computer analyzed and modeled the entire design for maximum results. Interesting, though.
 
Quote:

Sorry, what means "BA what he's doing"?
IIRC, Fostex stated that T50RP driver's construction is optimised for maximum sensitivity. The metal plates capture magnetic fields emanating from rear side of magnets and focus it in these ridges. The milled mod should have lower efficiency due to that there's less path for magnetic flux..
 

 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

What did you mod?
 
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Wow, I just got to the point where the tonality of these things is *perfect* for me. I listen to it and don't want to change a thing. Great bass extension, perfect amount of treble, awesome midrange tone, and very, very smooth.

Only thing wrong is I'm getting a little midrange reverb, probably because I'm using felt instead of paxmate, but damn, how satisfying.

 

Yes, please post pix.
 
Quote:

Quote:

Just give them a chance to stretch out a bit. After taking mine off several times, I would say they are even easier to put on than the stock pads.
 
I have finally finished my major project of the past few weeks. Now I don't see many mentions of recabling around here, but I am really happy with how mine turned out. I was honestly never a huge fan of the single termination and wanted to go to something more traditional. I would up using 24ga silver plated copper silicon wire covered in 3mm nylon rope. The four wires are braided using a flat litz braid and the cable is terminated in a 1/4" Neutrik jack. Overall I am very happy with how it turned out. It sounds great and looks even better to me. The biggest problem of the whole ordeal was feeding the bare wire into the jacket. Once that was done, it was just a matter of getting my girlfriend to braid the wires for me and drilling some holes for insertion into the cups.
 
Even though the cable is now substantially thicker than the original cable (to be expected with four wires now), the cable is still just as flexible as the original. This was very important to me after comparing the stock cable to a recable I performed on my Grados using some Mogami Mini Quad, which is about 3x stiffer than this silicon wire.
 
Sadly my main computer is down with a whole host of problems I have been working through tonight, but hopefully I will be able to get some pictures posted up in the next few days if anyone is interested.
 

 

 

[dogwan]

Here's some progress pics. Got the re-cabling most of the way there. Still need to terminate and connect the drivers. Cups have been sprayed with Quiet-Kote and baffles filled.
 
My cables are my own recipe. I twist my own 34ga. magnet wire and feed it into thin walled teflon tubing and then braid it up. total of 6 strands for the positive (=26.27ga) and 2x 4strands on the negative side(=25.03ga). This gives me 6 individual wires to braid. Much beefier than most stock cables and still very flexible. I've found the sound of these cables very satisfying on other cans that I've redone. I'm very hopeful it will work just as good on these. OMG, I can't believe how thin  the stock wire is on the Fostex's, this can't be good for a power hungry phone!
 
Anyway, last mid term tomorrow. After that I should be able to get these back together and start tweaking the sound.
 
-Dogwan
 

 

[drez]

I need to find one of those rubber stoppers you used!  The only solution I could come up with is using silocone to hold the cables in place.

 

[dogears]

@dogwan, great work dog!

 

[Arleus]

Disclaimer: I want to just stress that these are great sounding headphones. I'm mentioning only the flaws in this post
 
About the drivers, I was actually getting close to coming to the same conclusions the other night. I've still been trying to track down the source of this 1k resonance that's been plaguing my build. I removed the cups, and pressed the baffle and pad against each ear so that I was essentially listening to a completely open headphone (it wasn't comfortable - I had to hold my head right against the desk!). It essentially sounded the same, with the same problems as when I had the cups on. Good news there is that the foam, mass damping, and cotton wool I had in the cups is doing its job, and essentially providing little by the way of reflection, which goes some way to explain the quite open sound I have. The bad news is, the 1k resonance was still there, the slight muddiness and congestion was still there, and the lack of treble extension was still there. It's not a great test, because you could easily argue that the driver isn't supposed to work in an open design, but since the flaws are essentially the same with and without the cup, I think it's fair to hypothesise that it is the driver / housing / baffle for the moment. 
 
Now, a couple of things about my build - I've still got the stock white fabric on the back of the driver, and the stock black fabric on the ear-side. I'm slightly nervous about removing them, as it would take my build over the line, and into irreversible territory, and I'm not sure how easy it is to get equivalent fabrics in my area. I imagine removing that black ear-side felt will open up the sound somewhat?
 
Am I the only person noticing these 'flaws' (or characteristics, if you will) of the sound? If that's the case, I probably need to change my build. Or, do we think it might be inherent in the design of the driver / housing? Or, as another option, is it an issue with the pads (I'm still using stock, though I believe BMF stated they sound the same as 840, a few pages back). Or, is it simply the headphones I'm comparing to? You can see from my signature that I tend to prefer fast / analytical / sparkly sound signatures. I love the lush richness of my T50rps midrange, but do I have to sacrifice that to obtain the other qualities I enjoy?

 

[mmayer167]

@ dogwan, Yea that stock cable awg is super small! i shortened up an extra cable and re-terminated with a rat-shack 3.5mm plug for portable use and couldnt help but notice how small it is compared to the mogami im used to! im interested in your impressions on the larger awg.
 
 
M

 

[micmacmo]

Dogwan, I certainly hope your mods sound as good as they look. Nice craftsmanship there. 

 

[200poundsofamp]

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What did you mod?
 

It's basically just messing around with the faust mod. When you tried it sounded too warm, right? Did for me too, and there were resonance problems. It really doesn't have to be like that, by using variations of different densities of felt over the back of the driver, a reflex dot, and messing around with the vents you can really dial in the sound you want. I've been using variations of it on the T20v2 and YH-3 and really like the results on all of them.

I've been basing their sound signatures around my favorite dynamic heapdhones, so T20v2 = DJ100 and T50rp = SRH840, and it's surprising how similar you can make them sound. Right now my orthos sound like those but with the little things I don't like about them corrected.

I'd like to get them measured first to see if it's even worth mentioning what I did. If they come out looking like the edition 10 I won't bother! But right now personally I enjoy them a lot.

 

[200poundsofamp]

Quote:

 
Am I the only person noticing these 'flaws' (or characteristics, if you will) of the sound? If that's the case, I probably need to change my build. Or, do we think it might be inherent in the design of the driver / housing? Or, as another option, is it an issue with the pads (I'm still using stock, though I believe BMF stated they sound the same as 840, a few pages back). Or, is it simply the headphones I'm comparing to? You can see from my signature that I tend to prefer fast / analytical / sparkly sound signatures. I love the lush richness of my T50rps midrange, but do I have to sacrifice that to obtain the other qualities I enjoy?

I have mine sounding like the srh840 with less midbass and a little less treble, so there's a slight analytical edge to the sound and snares have a little zing, but the rich midrange is still there. Don't know if that would do it for you. I don't know if it's possible for them to sound as treble happy or analytical as a Grado or K701 or srh940 though, when I tried it it just sounded way too damped.

Maybe try some different earpads? If you get some with larger openings it soaks up some bass and gives them a meaner treble tilt. Could give you more to work with.