Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!

[DaBomb77766]

Hm - now, my first barrier.  What's the best way to open these?  Do I just unscrew all of the screws under the earpad?

 

[kingoftown1]

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Well, I just came back with the pair I ordered.  When I plugged them in first, the right channel wasn't working for some reason - but after jiggling around with the plug on the left earcup it fixed itself. Hopefully this doesn't come back...
 
Anyway, these really do sound quite nice.  I can definitely hear a ton of plasticky resonance though.  Guess I'll have to see what I can do about that.
 
Funny thing, though, I ran into someone in the store who was looking for a pair of T50RPs too - and apparently I was the first person to actually inquire about these before too.  It's a small world, I guess.

I know the price tag kind of sucks, but Deoxit really does fix this.  I was using a generic contact cleaning without a lubricant for a long time and found myself re-cleaning about once a week.  I broke down and bought some Deoxit and have perfect channel balance now with no signs of it wearing out.
 
 

 

[rawrster]

There are 4 screws in that plastic "ring" when you take off the pads and that is all you need to unscrew but be sure to set the screws aside so you don't lose them as they are quite small. There are 2 or 3 screws by the black felt closer to the driver. Those are screws you keep on and you do not need to unscrew those to gain access to the inside of the cups and the baffle.

 

[DaBomb77766]

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I know the price tag kind of sucks, but Deoxit really does fix this.  I was using a generic contact cleaning without a lubricant for a long time and found myself re-cleaning about once a week.  I broke down and bought some Deoxit and have perfect channel balance now with no signs of it wearing out.
 
 

Hm, I'll have to check it out if I ever run into any more problems.  Thanks.


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There are 4 screws in that plastic "ring" when you take off the pads and that is all you need to unscrew but be sure to set the screws aside so you don't lose them as they are quite small. There are 2 or 3 screws by the black felt closer to the driver. Those are screws you keep on and you do not need to unscrew those to gain access to the inside of the cups and the baffle.

Okay, thanks, I got it!  Hmm.  What now.

 

[rawrster]

After you unscrew it and put the screws in a safe place it's time to start modding. There are a bunch of mods so it will depend on which one you want to do. There;s a thread with a summary of many different mods so that thread may be a place to start if you have not seen it yet.
 
Of course this is under the assumption that the materials needed for modding are in your possession.

 

[DaBomb77766]

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After you unscrew it and put the screws in a safe place it's time to start modding. There are a bunch of mods so it will depend on which one you want to do. There;s a thread with a summary of many different mods so that thread may be a place to start if you have not seen it yet.
 
Of course this is under the assumption that the materials needed for modding are in your possession.

Yup, I'm putting them in a plastic container here, I won't lose them.  Those earpads sure are a pain to put back on...
 
Anyway, I do have the plasticine for the baffle filling, and I just found a huge bag of quilt filling...cotton-y stuff made from polyester.  Really thick and fluffy though, not sure how much good this would be for anything.

 

[Armaegis]

For you guys cutting up dynamat and the like, what do you use to clean off your scissors/blade afterwards?

 

[DaBomb77766]

 

Yeah - after putting some of it up to my ears, it attenuates no sound whatsoever.  Guess I might as well throw some in the cups though to see if it does anything at all...



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For you guys cutting up dynamat and the like, what do you use to clean off your scissors/blade afterwards?

Hm, you could try something like Fantastik, maybe?

 

[rawrster]

The earpads are easy to put back on. You really just have to watch out for the double sided tape. It ripped a bit of the stock pads for me but once I got the O2 pads I removed the double sided tape since I definitely don't want them damaging earpads this expensive.
 
The first mod I did was the modeling clay which I found helped quite a bit with the resonance. If you are not sure I would suggest trying mods that are reversable which basically means don't take out the white felt by the driver (I think it's felt at least) since it was quite difficult to take it off in one piece. You can slowly experiment from there.
 
 
As for the dynamat I just used soap and water and then used a paper towel to dry it off and did it a few times to fully remove the dynamat residue.

 

[DaBomb77766]

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The earpads are easy to put back on. You really just have to watch out for the double sided tape. It ripped a bit of the stock pads for me but once I got the O2 pads I removed the double sided tape since I definitely don't want them damaging earpads this expensive.
 
The first mod I did was the modeling clay which I found helped quite a bit with the resonance. If you are not sure I would suggest trying mods that are reversable which basically means don't take out the white felt by the driver (I think it's felt at least) since it was quite difficult to take it off in one piece. You can slowly experiment from there.
 
 
As for the dynamat I just used soap and water and then used a paper towel to dry it off and did it a few times to fully remove the dynamat residue.

I just remembered someone mentioning it earlier in the thread and tried putting the earpads on by flipping the flap on them inside-out then flipping it back on while laying it on the baffle, and it was way easier that way.  Looks like a bit of the double-sided tape came off and stuck to the earpads, but I didn't have any problems with ripping anything...
 
Anyway, I just tried stuffing the cups full of this cotton-y stuff.  Not sure if it made any difference or not honestly, and I can hardly remember what it sounded like before...so yeah having two pairs would definitely be helpful here.  I took out the bass port felt too.  It made a pretty minimal difference, but I think I'll just leave it off...I tend to like things a little more bass-heavy than anything.
 
Hmm.  Guess I might as well try doing the plasticine in the baffles.  Has anyone actually weighed exactly how much they used in each cup?

 

[vafan13]

Have you opened them up since initially doing the mod?  Are you not having any problems with the putty sagging/sliding?  I fear being a putty and also of (relatively) high weight that it would slowly succumb to gravity.
 
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BMF 6v3: Less Is More?

 

 

[wdahm519]

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I have a much simpler suggestion.  
 
Remove the craft felt, put about 6 or 7 "regular" cotton balls (tease them apart to loosen the fibers) into the cup, and apply a reflex dot to the center square only on the inside of the driver.
 
With all due respect to transport and micropore, that's a short-term adhesive product meant to last for a couple of days.  It's unknown how this will age, or if the glue will even stay tacky and hold for extended periods, or how the aging of the adhesive may change the sound.  For the center reflex dot, I used electrical tape, which should adhere for years and won't change properties.  
 
You'll need to fiddle with the porting a bit, but on my 840 setup about 80% open yielded a very nice sound with extended bass, and clear highs.  You could also cover a second or third square with the electrical tape as an experiment.  It should brighten things a little further.  
 

 
I know this is from way back when, but I applied these changes and I'm hugely satisfied with the sound.  Its clearer and way more balanced.  I had no idea how dark and slightly muffled my setup actually was until I tried this.  It really opened things up.  Highly recommended!  The only gripe I have is bass is a tad weak but I'm getting used to it because my bass was a bit overwhelming and boomy before with the porting.  I kind of had to "live with it" before because if I closed the ports any more, the voices sounded tinny.
 
Thanks Mrspeakers!  BMF, if I get a 2nd set of T50RP's I'll try your idea as well.  But for now these stay.
 
If I were to do direct A/B comparison (which I can't do), I'm sure I would find that:
 
- Everything sounds more open, starting to model the sound of an open headphone with larger soundstage
- The headphone sounds overall brighter compared to my previous set up
- Highs and mids are much crisper with obviously more detail
- Bass is decreased but remains very punchy and no bleeding into midrange
 

 

[Hennyo]

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I know this is from way back when, but I applied these changes and I'm hugely satisfied with the sound.  Its clearer and way more balanced.  I had no idea how dark and slightly muffled my setup actually was until I tried this.  It really opened things up.  Highly recommended!  The only gripe I have is bass is a tad weak but I'm getting used to it because my bass was a bit overwhelming and boomy before with the porting.  I kind of had to "live with it" before because if I closed the ports any more, the voices sounded tinny.
 
Thanks Mrspeakers!  BMF, if I get a 2nd set of T50RP's I'll try your idea as well.  But for now these stay.
 

This is also what I'll try before applying the improved Rastas on pages 270-80. My set arrives tomorrow. Rasta 2 vs ^ stated mod, vs Rasta 2i which measures better than LCD-2. If Luis obliges, I would love to own a pair of Paradox's as well. (As I believe they are the best T50 has to offer. Followed quite closely by the constantly evolving Rastas. Which measured phenomenal. Please observe, one of the most prolific Stax users opinions about the modded T50rp:
 
 

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1. n3rdling
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1. 1,714 Posts. Joined 2/2008
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Thanks Marv for putting this together, was great fun.
 
Didn't listen to that much:
 
AD2000: A bit disappointing to me.  I'd never heard these before and was hoping the hype from a couple of members was warranted, but they were pretty average sounding to me.  Really grainy sounding which was annoying.
 
LFF's modded T50RPs:  Highlight of the meet for me personally.  Best ortho I've ever heard, only ortho that has a good amount of air and a nice soundstage.  This sounded more like an open headphone really...it totally caught me off gaurd.  Tonal balance was fantastic, very similar to the SR009 but wasn't as refined/fast/open.  
 
LCD3: I don't have much of a reaction to this headphone.  Sounded more balanced than the LCD2rev1 I had (haven't heard rev2).  Overall good but not a giant killer by any means in my mind.  I was thinking of buying one but am no longer interested.
 
It was nice seeing all you guys, you were all fun to talk to.  Cya next time

 

 

[leeperry]

Anyone tried this?
 
Got these hygienepads from beyerdynamic ($9 for 5 pairs) and installed them on T50RPs. I might cut a circle on the pad later.
 
You can stuff other pads or custom foams inside and put them on T50RPs.
 

 

Nice! I use those: http://www.scansound.com/Stretchable-Headphone-Covers.htm
 

 
They're very much acoustically transparent....aren't yours as well? I clean them every evening w/ 90% alcohol and I ditch them on a weekly basis.
 
I wish I had tried these on the cd3k instead of watching its earpads turn into mush every few months: http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq346/zephyrusrain/Photo12.jpg

 

[wdahm519]

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This is also what I'll try before applying the improved Rastas on pages 270-80. My set arrives tomorrow. Rasta 2 vs ^ stated mod, vs Rasta 2i which measures better than LCD-2. If Luis obliges, I would love to own a pair of Paradox's as well. (As I believe they are the best T50 has to offer. Followed quite closely by the constantly evolving Rastas. Which measured phenomenal. Please observe, one of the most prolific Stax users opinions about the modded T50rp:

1.  

 
Well I guess if your'e going to do that I might as well post the mods that are done to mine so its perfectly clear what I have right now.  I'm not sure if yours is 100% the same:
 
- SilverStone acoustic foam covering the inside of the cup, no foam on headband hanger stud
- No material on back of driver except for a square of electrical tape on the center square acting as a reflex dot
- Plasticine mass loading the interior side of the baffles and sealing the baffle (plasticine on the "rim")
- Two TRIPLE SIZED cotton balls, teased, inside the cups.  I used two because Mrspeakers and BMF found that something like 6 regular balls sounded best.  2 x 3 (triple) = 6
- Dynamat on ear side of baffle
- Shure 840 pads with cotton ball "bratwurst" underneath rear of the pad to angle the pads
 
- I also have a leather headband mod still because I find it super comfortable, but that doesn't affect sound so yeah.
 
 
Try it if you like, I don't take credit for most of it because its other peoples findings, but it sounds great.