Apr 5, 2016 at 1:54 PM Post #11,236 of 11,346
Good news!
 
Fostex is offering $50 rebate on any RP MK3 headphone set between April-August 2016. 
 
here is the link: http://www.americanmusicandsound.com/en/pages/promos/promo_fostex_50_rebate_RPMK3_2016.html
 
This is a fantastic offer.
 
Apr 9, 2016 at 9:53 AM Post #11,237 of 11,346
Called AMS to make sure t50 sales from my site are eligible. They are! So you can order the t50 MK III from my site with any Co figurative of pads and get the 50 dollar rebate, essentially giving you a free set of ZMF pads.
 
ZMFheadphones ZMF headphones hand-crafts wood headphones in Chicago, USA with special attention to exceptional sound and craftsmanship. Stay updated on ZMFheadphones at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/ZMFheadphones https://twitter.com/ZMFheadphones https://www.instagram.com/zmfheadphones/?hl=en http://www.zmfheadphones.com/zmf-originals/ contactzmf@gmail.com
Apr 24, 2016 at 4:05 AM Post #11,238 of 11,346
Geez guys, making one more mod to my t20v2 today, I dislodged one of the drivers from it's housing. When the 2 magnets slipped and aligned fields, the 2 metal rings came apart, loosening the diaphragm. After putting everything in place, the dislodged side became significantly low compared to the intact one.
Does anybody here had experience with this kind of thing? Is this driver done and garbage-bin-ready or it just needs some glue to create tension on the diaphragm or something like that? ( summing the numbers of t20v2 modders here, this thread seems the best place on the internet to ask this
frown.gif
)
 
Apr 24, 2016 at 7:11 AM Post #11,239 of 11,346
  Geez guys, making one more mod to my t20v2 today, I dislodged one of the drivers from it's housing. When the 2 magnets slipped and aligned fields, the 2 metal rings came apart, loosening the diaphragm. After putting everything in place, the dislodged side became significantly low compared to the intact one.
Does anybody here had experience with this kind of thing? Is this driver done and garbage-bin-ready or it just needs some glue to create tension on the diaphragm or something like that? ( summing the numbers of t20v2 modders here, this thread seems the best place on the internet to ask this
frown.gif
)

 
Hi ACSantana, if diaphragm is not destroyed (no holes) then you should be fine. If you will look at driver frame there are 6 places for screws and 4 snapping snaps:P close to those 4 snaps there are 4 holes that supposed to work as a vents. You can use those 4 holes for screws to make it more sturdy. also make sure you assembled it right, and careful because those magnets are pretty strong
 
Apr 24, 2016 at 2:00 PM Post #11,240 of 11,346
   
Hi ACSantana, if diaphragm is not destroyed (no holes) then you should be fine. If you will look at driver frame there are 6 places for screws and 4 snapping snaps:P close to those 4 snaps there are 4 holes that supposed to work as a vents. You can use those 4 holes for screws to make it more sturdy. also make sure you assembled it right, and careful because those magnets are pretty strong

Hey ZGLISZCZ! Thanks so much for the reply! Those snaps in the frame and lots of screws sounds like those t20RPmkII square drivers... the problem happened with the t20v2 with those first round ones.
The diaphragm is not damaged on my t20v2 but I guess these round ones are not as disassembly-safe as those later square ones as I don't see nothing like those snaps to create the right tension.
Do you know anything about those?
 
Apr 24, 2016 at 5:49 PM Post #11,241 of 11,346
Hi, yea I meant later square driver, the one you have might need screw with nut/cap (my english is limited so Im not sure how to call this ring http://www.midabo.pl/dodatki/srubka.jpg ) on the other side if threads does not hold tight any more. careful with the diaphragm
 
Apr 24, 2016 at 6:57 PM Post #11,242 of 11,346
  Hello. I am keen to purchase Fostex T50RP MK3 and can anyone recommend budget desktop amp? I heard that it is quite hard to drive and might need strong amp to drive in full capacity. Any help would be greatly helpful. :) 


I recommend avoiding USB powered DACs or amps. Also avoid DAC/AMP combinations, especially the budget ones. I cover the reasons why in my review of the T50RP MK3. You don't need to spend a fortune. A good setup would be an SMSL Sanskrit 6 DAC ($105) paired with a SAP II Pro ($70) or above amp.
 
Apr 24, 2016 at 7:53 PM Post #11,243 of 11,346
  Hi, yea I meant later square driver, the one you have might need screw with nut/cap (my english is limited so Im not sure how to call this ring http://www.midabo.pl/dodatki/srubka.jpg ) on the other side if threads does not hold tight any more. careful with the diaphragm

I think I understood what you meant, nut and washer (that's ok... I'm also not a native English speaker... I'm Brazilian, just for the record
beyersmile.png
).
I tried applying more pressure on the magnet and diaphragm stack today to keep the diaphragm tighter in place and it actually got even quieter.
There were 4 dark points on the rings that hold and send electricity to the diaphragm I think that was some kind of glue to keep tension , so I tried putting some weak white glue to keep things in place. It got noticeably louder but not quite as loud as the untouched driver.
I'm running out of ideas. 
frown.gif
 
 
Apr 25, 2016 at 3:24 AM Post #11,244 of 11,346
I muted one of the channels and noticed channel crosstalk... actually that the signal on the channel corresponding to the dislodged t20v2 driver side was being divided equally with the non-dislodged side (that should be muted).
So I've found it's the two rings the diaphragm were touching, so also shorting and leaking current into the system. I've put some tiny electrical tape pieces as padding where the 4 dark spots are on the rings (that must be the original electrical insulator) and it's normal with just some occasional recurrence of the problem when I shake the headphones. So, jut a little more tinkering and I think it's problem solved.

A big thanks to ZGLISZCZ that was unfamiliar with those specific drivers but took a part of his time to try to help me... you're awesome man.
 
May 5, 2016 at 9:37 AM Post #11,245 of 11,346
I am newly entering the modding world. Was looking to grab a MK3 as it is reviewed as 'much' better than the previous ones. But getting a good deal on a used but totally unmodified Mk2 right now. Should I buy Mk2 or Mk3? Will mod it eventually. 
 
May 5, 2016 at 9:49 AM Post #11,246 of 11,346
I am newly entering the modding world. Was looking to grab a MK3 as it is reviewed as 'much' better than the previous ones. But getting a good deal on a used but totally unmodified Mk2 right now. Should I buy Mk2 or Mk3? Will mod it eventually. 


If you plan to mod them anyway I'd just get the cheapest.
 
May 5, 2016 at 6:59 PM Post #11,247 of 11,346
I am newly entering the modding world. Was looking to grab a MK3 as it is reviewed as 'much' better than the previous ones. But getting a good deal on a used but totally unmodified Mk2 right now. Should I buy Mk2 or Mk3? Will mod it eventually. 


Mk2 and mk3s have the same driver in the same cup, so after mods should in theory be the same
 
May 6, 2016 at 7:47 AM Post #11,248 of 11,346
Was getting the stuff together to sell my ZMF modded t50rps and found some leftover sticky back craft felt. If anyone in the US needs some send me a PM with your address and I'll send it to ya.
 

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