Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Apr 26, 2012 at 2:22 PM Post #7,862 of 11,346
 
Quote:
Interesting about NS and OS.  If the NS has denser driver damping paper, that would lead to less bass, and it wouldn't explain more variation.  So there must be something else at work. 

 
I had measured a drop in bass when I got my last batch of phones, but I also saw some improvement in the 3-6KHz range.  
 
My understanding (not validated) was that their production was damaged in the quake last year.  Supply chain changes may have meant a new vendor for the driver damper, for example.  Or perhaps this was deliberate.  
 
It's still possible to get fantastic sound out of these, but the tuning changes a bit...  I got great feedback on the Mad Dog mods at the LA meet last weekend, and I had both my cans using new phones.
 
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Apr 26, 2012 at 2:57 PM Post #7,863 of 11,346
 
Quote:
 
 
What changes did you hear?  
 
I would assume that the quietkote is working much like dynamat and damping out plastic vibrations.  I assume it wouldn't behave like paxmate to absorb sound that otherwise would reflect...

 
I figure the spray rubber would do a little bit of both vibration and acoustic damping. It's a very light mass load, adds visco-elastic layering, and roughens/softens the surface.
 
In terms of sound changes...
 
Mostly a cleaner low end, roughly 40-100Hz. Not much apparent change in bass quantity, but clarity was improved.
 
Upper end changes were harder to put a finger on. With stock I could hear two dips in the treble. With the spray, it's like the dips were more prominent during a sweep... but in trying to do volume matching with specific tones I could not discern a real difference. So perhaps removal of vibrations/reflections just made the dips in the sweep more defined (narrow?).
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 5:17 PM Post #7,865 of 11,346
Burson 160D and Audio-GD NFB-12.  
 
They sound very different, but given the price delta that's probably not a shock.  But at the super low price of the NFB-12, it's quite a steal.  I can't think of anything else near that price for a DAC/Amp that doesn't make me want to run for cover...
 
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Apr 26, 2012 at 5:18 PM Post #7,866 of 11,346
 
Quote:
I figure the spray rubber would do a little bit of both vibration and acoustic damping.

Yes, but what head-fi'ers are dying to know is...
 
After a day out on the water, are your T50RPs still completely dry?
 

 
 
I bought a pair of these a couple of weeks ago, then let them burn in for a few days. They are definitely the newer version with the bronze looking (as opposed to gold/brass) supports. I felt they were light on the bass, but the 840 pads made a nice improvement there. I also added a V-moda cable, which got rid of a little scratchiness in the connection that I experienced with the not-so-great fitting stock cable. Can't tell if the cable itself did anything for the bass since I did that the same day as I started using my new Audioengine D1 instead of my receiver's headphone jack. I'll agree with a previous poster that the D1 won't drive the T50RPs to ear splitting output, but it's plenty for me and sounds pretty good.
 
I haven't opened up the cups yet but I'm making a list of supplies I need from the crafts store and reading the mods wiki. Mostly I'd be looking to eliminate some of the resonance that plagues the midrange and gives these phones a sort of shouting-in-a-tunnel effect. A little more openness and extension to the treble wouldn't be unwelcome either. But I definitely hear the potential in the drivers. Even right out of the box I noticed a level of detail that surpasses my Grado SR-200s, which were the only quality headphones I used for 20 years until I reacquired an interest in this stuff a couple of months ago.
 
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 5:23 PM Post #7,867 of 11,346
 
Quote:
I felt they were light on the bass, but the 840 pads made a nice improvement there. I also added a V-moda cable, which got rid of a little scratchiness in the connection that I experienced with the not-so-great fitting stock cable. Can't tell if the cable itself did anything for the bass since I did that the same day as I started using my new Audioengine D1 instead of my receiver's headphone jack. I'll agree with a previous poster that the D1 won't drive the T50RPs to ear splitting output, but it's plenty for me and sounds pretty good.
 

 
The v-moda cable is electrically almost the same as stock, but the gold plating and the fact that the connector is perhaps a few microns bigger, and can rotate freely to "polish" the female jack, all contribute to getting rid of the scratchiness.  De-oxit is a good investment to prevent the scratchiness/breakup returning.  The have it at Radio Shack...
 
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Apr 26, 2012 at 6:03 PM Post #7,868 of 11,346
Guys, just tell me: what about the bass? I'm willing to trry them, but I'm a bass-head. Fortunately I've found the thunderous bass I was looking for plus the definitionl/clarity/micro-detail/superb mids and treble on the Denon HP700's, but I'm willing to give the Fostex a try if they are bass heavy as well. If not, well, I'll be happy with the Denons for quite some time : )
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 6:55 PM Post #7,869 of 11,346
 
 
 
Quote:
mrscotchguy: great avatar, lovely whisky.

 
Thank you, Laphroaig is delightful.  It makes listening much more enjoyable.
 
Quote:
 
 
You are correct. The New Stock (NS) is different in look and sound compared to the Old Stock (OS). The OS has potential for very low, deep, tight, tactile bass. The NS is a bit bass light when compared to the OS. Moreover, I find that the NS is a lot more picky when it comes to voicing the driver. The NS driver is much more sensitive to mods than the OS. There is also more variation in sound in the NS than the OS.
 
However, if you know what you are doing, you can still pull fantastic sound out of the NS....it just takes longer to do so.

 
>LFF
 
Thank you for confirming my suspicions about (NS) vs (OS).  I appreciate heads-up, this should prevent some frustration(s).
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
 
What did you use for mass loading?
 
Six months ago I used Lock-Tite Blue to hold the cup-to-baffle screws after stripping the plastic threads. The next day I found that Lock-Tite had interacted with the plastic and crumbled it. 
 
The white material you used for mass loading the baffles looks like it has a sheen to it I've not seen in plasticine and Newplast. If you used ordinary plasticine, what do you think caused your baffles to crumble?
 
BMF
 
 
 

 
>BMF
 
I used Sculpey Premo! : http://www.amazon.com/Premo-Sculpey-Polymer-Clay-Translucent/dp/B00114PWWU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1335479982&sr=1-1-spell
 
Though this can be had for a couple of dollars at Hobby Lobby, I do not think I will be purchasing this again.  Primo! works very well since it holds better than some other stuff brands I had tried before it.  Other brands seem to be crumbly and left residue as well as color all over the place. My hands, desk, and fingernails were BLUE for days.  I just cannot imagine this material to cause the plastic housing to just break apart as it did.
 
Is there a brand of clay/plasticine that is preferred over others?
 
 
 
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 7:18 PM Post #7,870 of 11,346
 
Quote:
Guys, just tell me: what about the bass? I'm willing to trry them, but I'm a bass-head. Fortunately I've found the thunderous bass I was looking for plus the definitionl/clarity/micro-detail/superb mids and treble on the Denon HP700's, but I'm willing to give the Fostex a try if they are bass heavy as well. If not, well, I'll be happy with the Denons for quite some time : )

 
Stick to the Denons IMHO.
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 7:30 PM Post #7,871 of 11,346
Hmm I think you can get crazy huge bass with the T50rp.  But it takes work of course, and the Denons come craptastic straight from the factory. 
wink.gif

 
Apr 26, 2012 at 7:36 PM Post #7,872 of 11,346
 
Quote:
 
I used Sculpey Premo! : http://www.amazon.com/Premo-Sculpey-Polymer-Clay-Translucent/dp/B00114PWWU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1335479982&sr=1-1-spell
 
Though this can be had for a couple of dollars at Hobby Lobby, I do not think I will be purchasing this again.  Primo! works very well since it holds better than some other stuff brands I had tried before it.  Other brands seem to be crumbly and left residue as well as color all over the place. My hands, desk, and fingernails were BLUE for days.  I just cannot imagine this material to cause the plastic housing to just break apart as it did.
 
Is there a brand of clay/plasticine that is preferred over others?
 
 
 

I'd avoid oven bake clay. They're pretty much not made to remain unbaked.
I got mine in an arts & craft store, and checked that it wasn't one of the made-to-bake type. Confirmed with the clerk if it was non-drying (not flour based) and he told me that the one I chose was oil-based and will not dry. Not sure if all plasticine are oil-based but that's what I use. Doesn't colour my hands or anything.
 
Then there's newplast... never used it but it seems to be preferred by those that have access to it. It's denser.
 
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 7:52 PM Post #7,873 of 11,346
 
Quote:
 
Yes, but what head-fi'ers are dying to know is...
 
After a day out on the water, are your T50RPs still completely dry?
 

 

 
All things considered, as long as you're not pouring water directly on the driver these things are reasonably waterproof now. Maybe a little bit of teflon/scotchguard on the bass vents and front of the driver, and you're good to go.
 
Apr 26, 2012 at 8:11 PM Post #7,874 of 11,346
I'm with you on the Laphroaig.
 
You're in the UK...order some Newplast from Chroma Colour.
 
Quote:
 
 
 
 
Thank you, Laphroaig is delightful.  It makes listening much more enjoyable.
 
 
>LFF
 
Thank you for confirming my suspicions about (NS) vs (OS).  I appreciate heads-up, this should prevent some frustration(s).
 
 
>BMF
 
I used Sculpey Premo! : http://www.amazon.com/Premo-Sculpey-Polymer-Clay-Translucent/dp/B00114PWWU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1335479982&sr=1-1-spell
 
Though this can be had for a couple of dollars at Hobby Lobby, I do not think I will be purchasing this again.  Primo! works very well since it holds better than some other stuff brands I had tried before it.  Other brands seem to be crumbly and left residue as well as color all over the place. My hands, desk, and fingernails were BLUE for days.  I just cannot imagine this material to cause the plastic housing to just break apart as it did.
 
Is there a brand of clay/plasticine that is preferred over others?
 
 
 

 
 
 
Quote:
Hmm I think you can get crazy huge bass with the T50rp.  But it takes work of course, 

 
^ Yes.
 
 

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