[DeathDomokun]

Has anyone tried using polymer clay instead of plasticine?

 

[wdahm519]

Updated lists...
 
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3D Printed custom baffles for FA-003 pads.
 
Straight FA-003 Pad Baffles:
1. BMF
2. BMF
3. BMF
4. Geetarman49
5. DeathDomokun
6. LFF
7. Cortlendt
8.
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Quote:

Angled FA-003 Pad Baffles:
1. BMF
2. BMF
3. BMF
4. CYoung234
5. Geetarman49
6. Cortlendt
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
 
** I will release a final cost later too so this list doesn't bind you to anything yet ***

 
 

 

[E3SEL]

Quote:

Increase bass performance (due to the better seal) and some improvement in comfort, too.
 

 
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The direct changes going from stock pads to 840 pads is going to be V-shaped: improved bass, lower mids and treble; loss of mids.
As discussed previously, this 'loss of mids' is mostly because the stock pads accentuate mids very much and the 840 pads do not.
 

Thanks a lot for the responses, I was hoping I would hear something along them lines.
 
 

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

 
As I understand it, this is what is necessary to achieve a flatter frequency response curve. You must enhance bass extension and at the same time tame the mids a little. You see that when you compare the frequency response of stock T50RPs with let's say LFF's Paradox setup.

Yup! Just as you said, this is especially efficient if you come from stock pads or a mid-forward setup. Mine wasn't but eh... I got a lot more used to the sound and feel of them with 840's already, without making changes still. Not as bad as I originally spoke about them, though needs work.
 
Sadly my modding dilemma is that last week was still rather cold and my hands couldn't work with as much precision. This week... suddenly so hot, wearing the Fostex is too warm!! Until I get used to the temperature again, I've escaped to portapros :b
 
 
On another note, is there a non-destructive way to remove the pivoting joint from the cups? Not sure if conventional maple makes good cups, but I am trying to figure out if there is a way to expand the current cup volume (rather than fully making new cups). No set plans on doing such a mod yet, though curious.

 

[TierAngst]

You can count me in on a pair...pending price. I have my FA-003 pads mad stretched to fit over. 

 

[KneelJung]

I think the right driver on my T50 just died, the one I was recently soldering on. I Actually thought it went out yesterday, and that one of the wires I soldered had probably come loose. After opening and inspecting it the wires were in tact, but the driver started working again. Things were fine yesterday and earlier, but when I went to use them tonight the right channel was out again. After reopening the right cup everything looks fine but no magical cure this time. So I closed it back up and checked the connection in the relay in the other cup thinking maybe the problem was with that connection. Everything looks fine there too, so I'm confused

 

[olegausany]

Hi i'm completely new to this thread and unfortunately can't do any modding myself except replacing stock pads with the Shure 840 ones so just want to know if anybody who has expierence and willing to do this for me (preferably in New York city)? I don't need wooden cups since i was told that they aren't required to achieve the best sound

 

[skeptic]

After lurking in this thread for quite a while, I finally gave in this afternoon and ordered myself a pair.  What do you guys think - should I live with them stock for a week or so (to appreciate the humble origins), or order up some plasticine, silverstone, 840 pads, etc. right out of the gate?

 

[olegausany]

Quote:

After lurking in this thread for quite a while, I finally gave in this afternoon and ordered myself a pair.  What do you guys think - should I live with them stock for a week or so (to appreciate the humble origins), or order up some plasticine, silverstone, 840 pads, etc. right out of the gate?

It all depends where are you coming from but i would still get 840 pads if you want to improve bass

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

Hi i'm completely new to this thread and unfortunately can't do any modding myself except replacing stock pads with the Shure 840 ones so just want to know if anybody who has expierence and willing to do this for me (preferably in New York city)? I don't need wooden cups since i was told that they aren't required to achieve the best sound

What kind of mods do you intend to do? Most of the mods, at least the reversible ones, are very very very simple to do. Things like buying plasticine (or any non-drying modeling clay) and putting some on the baffles, or just stuffing the cups with cotton.
If you plan on going all-the-way the you're probably also looking at dynamat and whatnot, then I guess it'll be a little tougher. You can try the reversible ones first; they're reversible anyway! Just don't pull the cables too hard and you should be fine. Oh, and don't touch the 3 center screws on the baffle cause you don't need to.


Quote:

After lurking in this thread for quite a while, I finally gave in this afternoon and ordered myself a pair.  What do you guys think - should I live with them stock for a week or so (to appreciate the humble origins), or order up some plasticine, silverstone, 840 pads, etc. right out of the gate?

Live with them stock for a bit. It will give you an idea of the strengths and weaknesses of these cans; from there you shape the sound as you see fit with different mods and materials. Wouldn't hurt to get the materials first, although make sure you'll need them. Silverstone is probably one of the more expensive material listed (until dynamat?), and well, if you have leftovers you can always sell/share with other people or shove them in a desktop PC.
 
 

 

[olegausany]

 
 
 


Quote:

What kind of mods do you intend to do? Most of the mods, at least the reversible ones, are very very very simple to do. Things like buying plasticine (or any non-drying modeling clay) and putting some on the baffles, or just stuffing the cups with cotton.
If you plan on going all-the-way the you're probably also looking at dynamat and whatnot, then I guess it'll be a little tougher. You can try the reversible ones first; they're reversible anyway! Just don't pull the cables too hard and you should be fine. Oh, and don't touch the 3 center screws on the baffle cause you don't need to.
Live with them stock for a bit. It will give you an idea of the strengths and weaknesses of these cans; from there you shape the sound as you see fit with different mods and materials. Wouldn't hurt to get the materials first, although make sure you'll need them. Silverstone is probably one of the more expensive material listed (until dynamat?), and well, if you have leftovers you can always sell/share with other people or shove them in a desktop PC.
 
 

I like mids and highs of stock ones but bass needs improvement but i'm not good in opening them and putting something in especially when you have no idea how to do it right what result to expect that's why i'm looking for somebody who can help. Pads i'm picking up tomorrow and will put them on
 
 
 

 

[dyna10x]

KJ I had the same problem when I resoldered a new wire on to a driver. I think it's due to too much heat damaging the contact of the solder pad with the fragile copper trace of the driver. When I tried to resolder again the solder pad lifted away completely and my attempts to get a new contact by exposing copper trace were unsuccessful. I believe some have been able to repair this using silver epoxy.

 

[DeathDomokun]

What effect does poking holes in plasticine have?

Pic is stolen from a BMF post and I don't claim it's mine and yada yada

 

[wje]

Quote:

I think the right driver on my T50 just died, the one I was recently soldering on. I Actually thought it went out yesterday, and that one of the wires I soldered had probably come loose. After opening and inspecting it the wires were in tact, but the driver started working again. Things were fine yesterday and earlier, but when I went to use them tonight the right channel was out again. After reopening the right cup everything looks fine but no magical cure this time. So I closed it back up and checked the connection in the relay in the other cup thinking maybe the problem was with that connection. Everything looks fine there too, so I'm confused

Brian,
 
Being that the connection appears solid, there still might be some issues with making a solid connection to the actual solder plate itself.  Where it stands, I'd suggest buying the Permatex rear window defogger repair kit for about $12 - $13 at an auto parts store.  The primary item you'll need is the little bottle of the brown paint (it's a really tiny bottle) and the brush that comes with it.  Apply a coat around the two solder joints allowing the paint to flow down the solder a bit and connect to the board.  Apply about 3 coats, allowing for 15 - 30 minutes of dry time between coats.  Wash the small brush out with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel after each use.  The paint included in the Permatex kit is an electrically conductive paint, so it will work well and hopefully solve your issue.  
 
I don't think heating up the soldering iron to do more work is a good thing this time.  Since it was mentioned that the original solder was aluminum, it's hard to take a tin combination solder with a rosin core and get it to work 100% on these headphones.  I've found lower melting point solder, but would really desire to buy aluminum solder next time via mail order and do it right.  Also, with the aluminum solder, one can work with much lower temperatures with their soldering iron.  For example, I set mine to the 15W setting and then used an extension cord with a dimmer switch in it so I could further reduce the iron temp. so I wouldn't blast the Fostex pads with 800 degrees of heat.
 
Use the Permatex paint though.  I've bought it, tried it and it works!

 

[BmWr75]

Probably no effect at all.
 
Quote:

What effect does poking holes in plasticine have?

Pic is stolen from a BMF post and I don't claim it's mine and yada yada