[stratocaster]

I was just wondering if anybody of you Fostex modding experts could complete the following list. I guess that would be a huge help to me as much as anybody else looking for a quick summary and up-to-date consensus.
 
If you want to enhance the bass: a) ... b) ... c) ...
If there is too much bass: .....
If you want to have the mids a little more recessed: ....
How to enhance the upper frequencies: ...
How to get the highs under control if they are too pronounced: ...
 
I hope I didn't ask too much. Otherwise I will get the advice to study the 450 something pages first and reach my own conclusions anyway

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

I was just wondering if anybody of you Fostex modding experts could complete the following list. I guess that would be a huge help to me as much as anybody else looking for a quick summary and up-to-date consensus.
 
If you want to enhance the bass: a) ... b) ... c) ...
If there is too much bass: .....
If you want to have the mids a little more recessed: ....
How to enhance the upper frequencies: ...
How to get the highs under control if they are too pronounced: ...
 
I hope I didn't ask too much. Otherwise I will get the advice to study the 450 something pages first and reach my own conclusions anyway

 
You pretty much need to experiment yourself.  Enhancing the bass will come from opening up the headphones ports and let them breath, but this usually results in over bloated, warm bass.  If there is too much bass, seal it up.  
 
For everything else, the answer is fiberfill/cotton/fiberglass.
 
 

 

[kalbee]

Another one with bass is changing earpads. I have yet to try the ones others have used (SRH840, FA003, O2, SA5k, etc.) but from my relatively short time with SJ5 pads taped on, I can say for sure that the pads WILL change sound a lot.
Though using supra-aural pads like I did may not be a good idea. It was only until I tried something else again that I found my sound, although with much more bass response, became SUPER dark.

 

[headphonatic]

I feel like my mids are recessed, might be the cotton balls, any help?

 

[wje]

Quote:

Kind of a strange thought, but it has me worried.
I am going on a trip soon, and I wanted to bring my Fostex's. I did the clay mod, so I've got a bunch of clay in them. If they go through the xray with them, would the clay raise some suspicions?

That all depends.  Did the clay that you used have "U.S. Army" or "U.S. Marines" markings on it anywhere?  If so, then you should worry.  If it didn't then there's no need for alarm. 

 

 

[wje]

Quote:

I was just wondering if anybody of you Fostex modding experts could complete the following list. I guess that would be a huge help to me as much as anybody else looking for a quick summary and up-to-date consensus.
 
If you want to enhance the bass: a) ... b) ... c) ...
If there is too much bass: .....
If you want to have the mids a little more recessed: ....
How to enhance the upper frequencies: ...
How to get the highs under control if they are too pronounced: ...
 
I hope I didn't ask too much. Otherwise I will get the advice to study the 450 something pages first and reach my own conclusions anyway

Stratocaster,
 
Welcome to the dark side.  The side of Fostex headphone modifications.  You've spent a fair amount of time with making classy Grado headphones.  However, now, I believe is where the real fun will begin.  A $100 pair of headphones and about $30 in supplies (clay, Paxmate, Shure 840 ear foams) and you're going to have a lot of fun.  Believe it or not, I'm much more content at working on various tuning mechanics with these headphones than trying to develop the perfect trophy piece with the Grados -- perfectly cut cups, special leather headband, yada, yada, yada.  With the plastic cups (and Shure 840 pads) along with the rubber factory headband, I find the Fostex headphones quite comfortable.
 
So, now, you're ready for your adventure to begin.  Move slow.  Follow the pointers in the threads here on what has been done to date.  You'll end up with a headphone that sounds unlike the Grado house sound.  However, you'll still end up with an outstanding headphone that has a nice, balanced frequency response and is lovely to listen to for hours on end.  Every now and then, you'll have to pinch yourself when you think that you only have $130 or so invested in the headphones.  You'll think that you should have spent at least $430 for the sound, but you didn't.
 
Enjoy !!
 
 
 

 

[kalbee]

That all depends.  Did the clay that you used have "U.S. Army" or "U.S. Marines" markings on it anywhere?  If so, then you should worry.  If it didn't then there's no need for alarm. 

 

Hah, I wanted to make that reference too but decided against it xD

I feel like my mids are recessed, might be the cotton balls, any help?

Probably over damped. You need the cotton to be quite loose and teased.
Hope that can help your issue :x

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

Hah, I wanted to make that reference too but decided against it xD
Probably over damped. You need the cotton to be quite loose and teased.
Hope that can help your issue :x

I think we need to start using the term "over-damped" more conscientiously.  Saying over-damped and meaning "you have too much damping in your cups" are to very different things.  Over-damped vibrational response is NOT what is happening.

 

[glorydays]

Quote:

I feel like my mids are recessed, might be the cotton balls, any help?

Perhaps your mids are recessed because the midrange backwaves getting absorbed the most. I'm experimenting with different cavity resonators at the moment. for combating the lower mids and treble. Today, I made some of cardboard, punching hole trough the clay on one end. Hole has to be of a certain length, like a tunnel. This, among other factors, regulate wich fq. the trapped air shoud resonate with. I suggest you search google. A bass reflex speaker is actually a cavity resonator in itself.
Making slits in the cardboard, is not sufficient to create a proper resonator, since the paper is wery thin.

 
 

 

[wje]

In regards to fixing an issue with a driver with a solder tab that has "disappeared" I collected some information from another member who had tried one method of reaching the traces to make a good contact along with reading earlier about another member who was able to  get some solder to melt at 350 (F).  With all of that in mind, I set out about my lunch hour to seek out some ideas and solutions.  I located some electrical solder (not aluminum) -- but, it has a melting point of 374 (F).  I then bought a corded lamp dimmer control for about $14.00 to use as my "poor mans" temperature adjustable soldering iron mechanism.  If I did more electrical work, I could justify owning a high-quality soldering station.  However, for this one-off type of work, I have to be as frugal as I can.  Using the slider on the dimmer, I had my iron plugged in and set to the 15W range.  I slowly raised the dimmer lever a small amount each time and then tested it to determine if the solder would melt.  I finally reached that point.  I was able to use a bit of flux after doing my best attempt to clean up any traces of the tabs that remained.  After the flux was set into place, I then ran my iron and solder in the "dot" area to make a nice small splot of solder that would secure a small wire.
 
I had some really good joints where the solder was really holding well and in position.  However, it started getting late and I still hadn't reached a good trace to link into, so I shut things down for the evening.  However, I do think this method is very viable in trying to recover a FUBAR driver or even if one desires to fully replace the stock wires all the way down to the solder spots.  Again, though, taking it down to that level just takes a very small amount of heat, a solder that melts at a low temp and a small dab of flux.
 
If things prove successful, I'll post some updates and hopefully pictures.  Again, that's if all goes successful.  

 

[kalbee]

I think we need to start using the term "over-damped" more conscientiously.  Saying over-damped and meaning "you have too much damping in your cups" are to very different things.  Over-damped vibrational response is NOT what is happening.

Good point. Will do!

 

[wje]

Just a quick update for y'all.  As mentioned earlier last week, B&H Photo has the T50RP headphones back in stock.  Today, their price was dropped back to $74.00 with free UPS Ground shipping.  Get 'em while they're hot.

 

[satwilson]

Quote:

In regards to fixing an issue with a driver with a solder tab that has "disappeared" I collected some information from another member who had tried one method of reaching the traces to make a good contact along with reading earlier about another member who was able to  get some solder to melt at 350 (F).  With all of that in mind, I set out about my lunch hour to seek out some ideas and solutions.  I located some electrical solder (not aluminum) -- but, it has a melting point of 374 (F).  I then bought a corded lamp dimmer control for about $14.00 to use as my "poor mans" temperature adjustable soldering iron mechanism.  If I did more electrical work, I could justify owning a high-quality soldering station.  However, for this one-off type of work, I have to be as frugal as I can.  Using the slider on the dimmer, I had my iron plugged in and set to the 15W range.  I slowly raised the dimmer lever a small amount each time and then tested it to determine if the solder would melt.  I finally reached that point.  I was able to use a bit of flux after doing my best attempt to clean up any traces of the tabs that remained.  After the flux was set into place, I then ran my iron and solder in the "dot" area to make a nice small splot of solder that would secure a small wire.
 
I had some really good joints where the solder was really holding well and in position.  However, it started getting late and I still hadn't reached a good trace to link into, so I shut things down for the evening.  However, I do think this method is very viable in trying to recover a FUBAR driver or even if one desires to fully replace the stock wires all the way down to the solder spots.  Again, though, taking it down to that level just takes a very small amount of heat, a solder that melts at a low temp and a small dab of flux.
 
If things prove successful, I'll post some updates and hopefully pictures.  Again, that's if all goes successful.  

As regards fixing a screwed up ( by your ownself ) solder conection, the permatex solution posted earlier in this thread is a better idea. As regards "fully replacing the stock wires" which I know you advocate, Mr Speakers advice to simply cut the stock wires to 1" and then solder to them, eliminates all these other problems. Do you really believe 1" of stock wiring going into the minuscle traces on the driver PC board are a problem?

 

[wje]

Quote:

Originally Posted by satwilson /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
As regards fixing a screwed up ( by your ownself ) solder conection, the permatex solution posted earlier in this thread is a better idea. As regards "fully replacing the stock wires" which I know you advocate, Mr Speakers advice to simply cut the stock wires to 1" and then solder to them, eliminates all these other problems. Do you really believe 1" of stock wiring going into the minuscle traces on the driver PC board are a problem?

I was also the person who posted the Permatex solution.  

 

 

[Taowolf51]

Is Permatex a glue for soldier points?