[BotByte]

Quote:

FWIW, I did NOT recable mine. I think the stock cable is fine as long as it is making proper contact.

 
+1
 
I see no use in a recable also. Unless you want the looks or the challenge.

 

[LFF]

Quote:

The FA003 pads (leather and velour) do not fit on the T50RP.. at least if you're trying to put them on in a traditional manner.  I "stuck" the velour pads on to see how it would feel and, boy, the comfort is downright sinful.  Soundstage is insane since my ears aren't anywhere near the baffle.  If this is the type of comfort I can look forward to when the O2 pads arrive, I'll never have to hear my wife yell at me again  

Nice to see someone else is enjoying that combination of FA-003 pads and mod'd T50RP's.

 
They certainly don't fit, but when adapted to the Fostex, the comfort and isolation is superb. I think the FA-003 pads work better for the mod than the O2 pads. Just my opinion of course.
 

 

[Hennyo]

When do the O2 pads arrive?! You'll have to tell us which you like more! (sound wise) Although I think we all can guestimate pretty accurately the differences, it'd be neat if you could let know which one you ultimately prefer more. : ) Full on review!
 
What about LCD-2 pads?! Would they fit?

 

[FlySweep]

I certainly will compare the two as far as fit, sound, etc once the O2's arrive (most likely late next week since they're coming from Japan), Hennyo..
 
Firs though, I need LFF to give me his secret sauce that get's the 003 pads firmly fixed on the T50RP..  

 

[CatboyMac]

I'm lazy and modding the cups seem like a hassle. Are there any 3rd party earpads that are compatible with the T5rp?

 

[BotByte]

Quote:

I'm lazy and modding the cups seem like a hassle. Are there any 3rd party earpads that are compatible with the T5rp?

Most people add 3rd party earpads.
 
I think I'm the only one who made their own pads by hand.

 

[LFF]

Quote:

Firs though, I need LFF to give me his secret sauce that get's the 003 pads firmly fixed on the T50RP..

Here is the secret sauce:
 

 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

How do I get the cups off the headband?  Do they snap off at the articulating bearing?

 
No!  Do not try to snap-off the horseshoe-shaped front hanger holder (#8) from the outside of the cups (#1) at the articulating bearing.  If you do, you will snap-off the rear hanger holders' (#9) 2 plastic protrusions that fit into the holes at either end of the metal hangers (#7).  Instead, refer to the instructions and exploded drawing, below.
 
Experienced T50RP modders:
 
1.  Remove the plastic plate (#18) to gain access to the the screw (#20) that attaches the hanger (#7), rear hanger holder (#9), and front hanger holder (#8) to the cups.
 
 
First timers:
 
1.  Remove the earpads (#3) from the baffles/cups (#12 and #1) by carefully pulling them away from 4 dabs of white adhesive around the perimeter of the baffles.
 
2.  Remove all 4 outside baffle screws (#23). Do not remove the other three screws (#23) that hold the drivers to the baffles.  Be careful to not drop/lose these tiny screws; they cost $1.50 EACH.  Use a magnetic screw driver.
 
3.  Gently separate the baffles (#12) from the cups (Left housing #1 and Right housing #2), taking care to not detach the hook-up wires from their delicate solder points on the drivers (#15) and headphone jacks (#16).
 
4.  Use an Xacto knife around the perimeter seam of the plastic plate (#18) glued onto the round compartment located at the center/inside of the cups, directly in-line with the headband hanger holder (#9 and #8) and in-line with the center square of the back side of the driver (#15).  After loosening the glue in the seam, you can pry the plate off which gives access to the screw (#20) that secures the hanger (#7), rear hanger holder (#9), and front hanger holder (#8) to the cup (#1).
 
5.  Remove the screw (#20) which allows disassembly of the hanger (#7), rear hanger holder (#9), and front hanger holder (#8) from the cup.
 
6.  When re-assembling, avoid over-tightening the 4 screws (#23) that attach the baffles to the cups in order to prevent stripping the cups' plastic threads.  If you happen to strip these threads, use some Lock-Tite or glue in the cups' screw holes. 

 

[dogears]

^wow!!!

 

[ccklone]

Quote:

How does it compare with stock? I recabled my Superlux 668B with cat5e and it make huge improvement. Then i use some thin buffalo cat6 which is very soft and the conductor must be about 1/2 compare to cat5e to recable and its worse than cat5e.

Hey Now,
 
Not sure really. It sounded better than the stock oem cable, but then it could have just been that I balanced the T40v.1. The Cat6 cable was 28awg copper - 4 twisted pairs, 8 total wires. My cat6 cable is not soft at all, it is stranded copper. I have been using the stuff Monoprice. Real cheap 8^).
 
I made a headphone extension recently with 16 total 28awg copper wires (8 twisted pairs)  from a 14ft long Cat6 cable, 2 x 3 pin XLR to 4 pin XLR female. Sheathed it in Techflex. Looks spiffy. Works good enough.
 
--
Finest kind,
Chris
 
 

 

[OmerNess]

So I'm going on a vacation to Amsterdam in a month and a half and i"m wondering if there is a store selling these for a normal price (guess 40~50 euros) there
shipping these to Israel through amazon or B&H is a pain because of the high shipping rates and taxes, about 35$ for shipment and 20$ dollar taxes, making these 120$~130$ instead of 70$
unlike "Smuggling" the fostex into israel on my ears when I'm back from Europe which will cost me nothing more but the price of the phones.
 

 

[rawrster]

So I've gotten around to lightly modding my pair so far. I don't have the acoustic foam yet (have to order it) but I do have the modeling clay and the felt so far. I think I'll continue to mod them for a while but I do have a few questions.
 
That black felt by the earpads..is that to be removed and if so what effect does it have? Also I assume the acoustic foam is used to prevent the resonance that I keep hearing because it's quite bad so far. I can hear some potential but I do have to get past that first. I'll play with what I assume is the bass ports that is covered by some kind of foam. Lastly the small black felt covering the holes 4 small rectangular holes..what effect does that have if removed?
 
I'm sure some of this has been covered multiple times but this thread is quite long..so thanks

 

[Rally555]

Omerness,
 
Jesse here in San Antonio.  My wife and I were there in July.  There is a place called Hobo Hifi near the Albert Cuyp market.  It is on a main street down from the market.  If you are walking through the market at either end there is a main street crossing  and it is down about a block. I'm sorry I don't know the street name but you should be able to find it.  The market isn't that long.  They are members of Head-fi and very knowledgeable about headphones.  They will be able to direct you. They don't sell Fostex there but again they are very helpful and knowledgeable. Here are some photos of their shop.  Sorry I don't know the address, but you should be able to find it.  As you can see it is a very nice shop.  

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

 
That black felt by the earpads..is that to be removed and if so what effect does it have? Also I assume the acoustic foam is used to prevent the resonance that I keep hearing because it's quite bad so far. I can hear some potential but I do have to get past that first. I'll play with what I assume is the bass ports that is covered by some kind of foam. Lastly the small black felt covering the holes 4 small rectangular holes..what effect does that have if removed?
 
I'm sure some of this has been covered multiple times but this thread is quite long..so thanks

 
See post 2573 on this page.  Look at part #10: Dust cover.  Some have found removing this dust cover from the front of the driver provides more treble.  I removed it and held it up to light.  It is very thin and loosely woven.  Some have removed it and noticed improved treble.  I did not hear a difference, but I a deaf above 12k Hz.  People with intact hearing in the higher registers may hear a difference where I did not.
 
I'm not sure what you are referring to as bass ports covered with foam.  Where is the foam?  
 
The bass tuning port is at the bottom of the cups and covered with a slightly denser fabric  (part # 17: damper) compared to the thin dust cover.  I removed it and placed electrical tape over all 4 slits.  I slowly pulled the tape away exposing first only 1 slit, then 2, etc. until all 4 were open.  Some have found significant increase in bass as more slits are opened.  I did not notice a significant increase in bass when fully open; only a minimal change to my ears and I can hear down to 20 Hz.
 
FWIW:  There is a very small hole on the front/ear side of the baffle.  You can stick a paperclip through it and see where it comes out of the driver on the back side.  This, I assume, allows pressure equalization on either side of the baffle; in other words, the pressure is the same inside the cup chamber as outside.  You can experiment with fully open vs partially covered with tape vs fully covered with tape to see what effect, if any, is produced.
 
Let us know what you find as you continue your mods.
 
 

 

[OmerNess]

Quote:

Omerness,
 
Jesse here in San Antonio.  My wife and I were there in July.  There is a place called Hobo Hifi near the Albert Cuyp market.  It is on a main street down from the market.  If you are walking through the market at either end there is a main street crossing  and it is down about a block. I'm sorry I don't know the street name but you should be able to find it.  The market isn't that long.  They are members of Head-fi and very knowledgeable about headphones.  They will be able to direct you. They don't sell Fostex there but again they are very helpful and knowledgeable. Here are some photos of their shop.  Sorry I don't know the address, but you should be able to find it.  As you can see it is a very nice shop.  

thanks for the helpful reply!