= HiFiMAN HE-560 Impressions & Discussion Thread =
Mar 3, 2018 at 8:14 PM Post #19,156 of 21,168
Mine from Adorama sale looks like this.

Four digit serial number on the right slider and the PAPER box.
Probably exclusive serial number for this paper box version?
It has no correlations with the driver serial numbers which is in seven digits.

Driver serial number nomenclature might be:
1st digit: last digit of the year of the production
2nd to 5th digit: month and day of the production (mmdd)
6th to 7th digit: serial number of the day (and odd number for the left and even number for the right driver)
Keep in mind that this is just my guess.

2018-03-04 09-56-53-IMGP5614.jpg
 
Mar 3, 2018 at 9:59 PM Post #19,158 of 21,168
...Driver serial number nomenclature might be:
1st digit: last digit of the year of the production
2nd to 5th digit: month and day of the production (mmdd)
6th to 7th digit: serial number of the day (and odd number for the left and even number for the right driver)...

According to that scheme, my drivers would have been built on March 29, 2017. I purchased mine well after that, so certainly plausible.
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 1:38 AM Post #19,159 of 21,168
Mine from Adorama sale looks like this.

Four digit serial number on the right slider and the PAPER box.
Probably exclusive serial number for this paper box version?
It has no correlations with the driver serial numbers which is in seven digits.

Driver serial number nomenclature might be:
1st digit: last digit of the year of the production
2nd to 5th digit: month and day of the production (mmdd)
6th to 7th digit: serial number of the day (and odd number for the left and even number for the right driver)
Keep in mind that this is just my guess.


INTERESTING!

My warranty exchange (not broken) headbands do not have a number scribed to the headband but my broken ones (from Adorama) DO have the same numbers scribed into it !

The new ones also do not say HE560 on them.

Also, the broken ones feel smoother to the touch than the warranty'd ones. Those ones have a grainier texture to it.

I wish I could break off a small piece of my new ones and go run some surface analysis on both of them and see if there's any differences between the two. :)
 
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Mar 4, 2018 at 7:54 AM Post #19,160 of 21,168
The problem is that HIFIMAN designed the yokes to be very tight, about three mm tighter than the width of the cup, I think the plastic they've used is not able to withstand the stress from this for a long time and thus snap over time.

After some interations this should work, I've made this part to fit the cups with just a slight bit of tensioning so the stresses should be minimal. I don't have a broken one on hand so I can't assemble it. The original yokes have a small aluminium insert which should fit in the slot you can see in the pictures. Assembly would require you to take out the one from the broken yoke and glue it in the slot, then glueing both halves together. After this you can sand down the seam slightly if needed. This is printed in ABS plastic and should have enough flex to prevent snapping.

I need someone to test these for me and that person should meet the following requirements:
  • Have a broken yoke from which to scrap the part needed.
  • Have a digital caliper to measure potential adjustments.
  • Have the time to do this when the parts comes ASAP.
  • Preferably live in Europe as I have to ship from the Netherlands
Please let me know if you're interested, in return for testing you will only have to pay for shipping and get the part for free.
_DSC3171.jpg _DSC3173.jpg _DSC3174.jpg
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 8:23 AM Post #19,162 of 21,168
The problem is that HIFIMAN designed the yokes to be very tight, about three mm tighter than the width of the cup, I think the plastic they've used is not able to withstand the stress from this for a long time and thus snap over time.

After some interations this should work, I've made this part to fit the cups with just a slight bit of tensioning so the stresses should be minimal. I don't have a broken one on hand so I can't assemble it. The original yokes have a small aluminium insert which should fit in the slot you can see in the pictures. Assembly would require you to take out the one from the broken yoke and glue it in the slot, then glueing both halves together. After this you can sand down the seam slightly if needed. This is printed in ABS plastic and should have enough flex to prevent snapping.

I need someone to test these for me and that person should meet the following requirements:
  • Have a broken yoke from which to scrap the part needed.
  • Have a digital caliper to measure potential adjustments.
  • Have the time to do this when the parts comes ASAP.
  • Preferably live in Europe as I have to ship from the Netherlands
Please let me know if you're interested, in return for testing you will only have to pay for shipping and get the part for free.
Those cups look sweet. They don't even look like the same HP.
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 8:38 AM Post #19,164 of 21,168
I made the cups myself using teak wood like the original beta versions HIFIMAN was presenting and giving out to beta testers. You can see more pictures over here: https://imgur.com/a/Ev27o. HIFIMAN opted to go with wood fineer over a plastic cup because wood cups were prone to cracking due to humidity and temperature changes I think. Mine have been holding up well for the past three years or so.
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 8:44 AM Post #19,166 of 21,168
I made the cups myself using teak wood like the original beta versions HIFIMAN was presenting and giving out to beta testers. You can see more pictures over here: https://imgur.com/a/Ev27o. HIFIMAN opted to go with wood fineer over a plastic cup because wood cups were prone to cracking due to humidity and temperature changes I think. Mine have been holding up well for the past three years or so.

Wow!
That's awesome mod!
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 5:15 PM Post #19,168 of 21,168
Does anyone have any tips for replacing the headband? I'm trying to attach the yokes to the cups but the cups seem way too wide to be able to snap onto the yoke from both sides. I feel like If I stretch the yoke enough so that they can wrap around the cup then it's going to snap like the last one.
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 6:23 PM Post #19,169 of 21,168
Does anyone have any tips for replacing the headband? I'm trying to attach the yokes to the cups but the cups seem way too wide to be able to snap onto the yoke from both sides. I feel like If I stretch the yoke enough so that they can wrap around the cup then it's going to snap like the last one.
I haven't done this yet, but I'd insert one tab into the ear cup, and slide the the other yolk tab along the curved edge of the ear cup* until it snaps into place.

* use a piece of very thin, smooth plastic to protect the wood veneer
 
Mar 4, 2018 at 7:07 PM Post #19,170 of 21,168
I haven't done this yet, but I'd insert one tab into the ear cup, and slide the the other yolk tab along the curved edge of the ear cup* until it snaps into place.

* use a piece of very thin, smooth plastic to protect the wood veneer

Thanks. Sliding did the trick.

INTERESTING!

My warranty exchange (not broken) headbands do not have a number scribed to the headband but my broken ones (from Adorama) DO have the same numbers scribed into it !

The new ones also do not say HE560 on them.

Also, the broken ones feel smoother to the touch than the warranty'd ones. Those ones have a grainier texture to it.

I wish I could break off a small piece of my new ones and go run some surface analysis on both of them and see if there's any differences between the two. :)

My replacement headband came just as you described. Also, the clamp force on the new one is not nearly as skull-crushing as the original. Maybe these were made not to suck?
 
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