[deja-vu]

The light on the side lights up blue for anything 44k and below... it lights up green for hi-res when it hits 96k and above. To my knowledge so far, it does not have any other light options.
Would be cool if they took a page from the FiiO book and had blue for lossy, purple for FLAC, yellow fo hi-res, green for dsd, and I would guess some kind of turquoise or whatever for MQA.

At this point, Hiby has stated publicly, that there is no MQA support currently scheduled for this device, and has not hinted as to whether that will change in a coming update.
I suspect it will come soon, as their $200 R3 player has full support for this format. We shall see.

Here's a question for the more technically inclined among us... Currently the R6 Pro only supports DSD native up to 256... is supporting 512 something that could be changed with a firmware update,
or does this require different hardware? Not that 512 is a big deal as there are virtually no tracks/albums anywhere that can be had at this resolution, but it has me curious.

... white light appears playing DSD iso files

 

[duncan21]

My hiby R6pro just gone dead suddendly, is there anyway to do a hard reset? Hope it's going to work.

Thanks.

 

[ariscotle]

My hiby R6pro just gone dead suddendly, is there anyway to do a hard reset? Hope it's going to work.

Thanks.

Don't know for sure... when mine died (purposely ran battery down until it died), I just plugged in the USB cable and it booted right back up...
Have you tried this?

 

[duncan21]

Don't know for sure... when mine died (purposely ran battery down until it died), I just plugged in the USB cable and it booted right back up...
Have you tried this?

Already tried it, didn't work

 

[Nayparm]

My hiby R6pro just gone dead suddendly, is there anyway to do a hard reset? Hope it's going to work.

Thanks.

Hi Duncan, give Option1 a shot, if not try Option2.

Option1:
Hardware reset:
Hold the power button for 30 seconds+ until it restarts.

Option2:
Enter Recovery:
Hold power button and volume up until it resets and you see hiby logo.
Let go power but keep hold of volume up, you will enter recovery with the droid on his back and it will say 'no command'.
Now to get the hidden menu, hold power button and tap volume up, you will get the menu.
With the volume keys select factory reset and tap power button it will reset to factory, now with the volume keys select power off and tap power button.
Turn back on and you should be fine (it will take a while after a factory reset and will probably show an encrypting screen and reboot again)

 

[ariscotle]

Already tried it, didn't work

I just sent Hiby a message on FB... they have been super awesome answering all my questions... and with them on the time difference, I usually get answers right away since I work graveyard.
I will chime back in as soon as I hear something... hopefully there is a hard reboot/reset you can do to bring that bad-boy back to life.

@Joe Bloggs

 

[hsdrggr]

Ah, well, poop. Thanks for the clarification. That makes that feature, for me and my use case of all streaming all the time (or downloaded streaming music), about as useful as a square wheel...

it only shows master but look at the frequency on the top - 44.1k and look at your side light. I think it’s blue

Guys from Russian audiophile forum(hiby r6 thread) said that older tidal ver 2.11.3 helped them.

2.11.3 doesn’t appear to work correctly on the R6 Pro. Playing MQA online and offline, showing 88.2k or 96k depending on recording, light is green on side button. All other HiRes online streams from Tidal show 88.2k on top of screen. I know some of their content is 44.1k. Light on side button stays green no matter what is played through Tidal. So it looks like we are still SOL for version of Tidal that works on the R6 Pro for playing offline MQA.

 

[zls88]

Last question - maybe someone who has one of the "big dogs" (Lotoo Paw Gold Touch, Cayin N8, Sony WM1Z, Astell&Kern A&Futura etc...) tell me... what do you get for features, or quality
when you take this step way up? The R6 Pro packs a lot of punch at $800... but those things are all $3k... From your experience, can you tell me where the extra $2 grand goes?

Thanks in advance.

I can speak to A&K specifically because I've tried their whole lineup extensively in an audio store. You get:

• A cooler looking device; the SP1000 series looks like an industrial sculpture
• A lot of theoretically superior audio processing hardware
• Tons of cool marketing
• If you really, really like the A&K sound coloration, obviously their devices cannot be beaten for it

However their devices are dramatically less versatile, because neutering their software EQ appears to be a big part of their marketing strategy. Frankly, if you are thinking about purchasing any of the devices you listed, I would strongly recommend you listen to it in-person a lot if possible, because most of it is marketing bull, but if you've already dropped thousands of dollars on the device the placebo effect is going to take over.

In truth, you would probably be better off putting the money into better headphones. For that matter, frankly most audiophile accessories are bull, more so as it becomes more expensive; I mean, christ, this very site has reviews of $4000 "audiophile" SSD drives and NAS, which is an absurdity beyond words to me, as a storage engineer...

Already tried it, didn't work

When mine "died" once I had to hold the power button for a long time. I mean, really, a surprisingly long time -- like 15 seconds or so. Much longer than most other devices.

 

[deniska80]

@Joe Bloggs, one more thing. Is there any way to add more steps between volume levels? Probably you can ask hiby developers.
It’s about balanced output.
If I listen to the music on level 28 it can be a little bit quiet to me but when I add 1 level it is to loud. Some of my fellows noticed the same issue. There is no such problem with se. but se is not so good in terms of sq.

 

[jsmiller58]

Just wanted to comment about request people had to stream via Bluetooth from their phone to the R6 Pro when they are not within range of WiFi...

You may want to see if the following is an option for you (will depend on your carrier and country, I suspect). Enable on your phone tethering/hotspot when you do not have WiFi for your DAP and then connect your DAP to the phone’s hotspot. Your DAP will now think it is connected via WiFi. Of course you are chewing up data on your phone’s cellular plan, but you would have done the same with Bluetooth from your phone as the phone is pulling the music down via cellular.

Hope this helps (I haven’t tried this on the R6 Pro, but do it all the time for my iPad)

 

[Joe Bloggs]

2.11.3 doesn’t appear to work correctly on the R6 Pro. Playing MQA online and offline, showing 88.2k or 96k depending on recording, light is green on side button. All other HiRes online streams from Tidal show 88.2k on top of screen. I know some of their content is 44.1k. Light on side button stays green no matter what is played through Tidal. So it looks like we are still SOL for version of Tidal that works on the R6 Pro for playing offline MQA.

Yes, 2.11.3 did have the side effect of making everything double in output frequency, MQA or no MQA. This is all fine and normal for an MQA decoder per MQA standards because, the final arbiter of whether something is MQA or not lies within the compressed bitstream itself in the "below background noise bits" of each sample (e.g. 2 bits per sample for a 16-bit stream), so it can't actually be properly decoded in the first second of so after skipping to a new track or the middle of a track via seeking. The way to deal with this as recommended by MQA is to upsample everything using the MQA upsampler whether or not it is MQA, to prevent glitches in the audio when playing something not identifying itself as MQA in advance (via filename or tags) that unexpectedly happens to be MQA.

 

[Joe Bloggs]

I just sent Hiby a message on FB... they have been super awesome answering all my questions... and with them on the time difference, I usually get answers right away since I work graveyard.
I will chime back in as soon as I hear something... hopefully there is a hard reboot/reset you can do to bring that bad-boy back to life.

@Joe Bloggs

Thanks for the heads-up on FB!

Hi Duncan, give Option1 a shot, if not try Option2.

Option1:
Hardware reset:
Hold the power button for 30 seconds+ until it restarts.

Option2:
Enter Recovery:
Hold power button and volume up until it resets and you see hiby logo.
Let go power but keep hold of volume up, you will enter recovery with the droid on his back and it will say 'no command'.
Now to get the hidden menu, hold power button and tap volume up, you will get the menu.
With the volume keys select factory reset and tap power button it will reset to factory, now with the volume keys select power off and tap power button.
Turn back on and you should be fine (it will take a while after a factory reset and will probably show an encrypting screen and reboot again)

Yep, them's the options you want to try if your R6 locked up for reasons other than overdischarging.

If instead it's just the battery being "too dead" to be charged up again (i.e. this happened after the R6 ran out of battery), you should connect the R6 to a regular USB port on a computer (powered on of course) and leave it overnight.

 

[Drakonas]

There is an LED on the side that will be on constantly, even with no activity, that slowly drains the battery...

My battery issues were fixed after I wiped the cache and did a factory reset. Instructions below:

1) Go to Android settings (either from notification bar when swiped down or click on Settings link in the list of apps when swipe the main android screen up).

2) In Setting, scroll down to System and select Wireless Update

3) Click to check for updates. The latest fw is 1.11GBeta released on 1/27/19 (or later in case if they released another one)

4) Doesn't hurt to do Factory Reset after you are done, just to clear everything, though be aware factory reset can delete internally stored files.

The best way to do factory reset to clear everything out is to do it through Android Recovery which you get into by following these steps:

1) Make sure R6 Pro is powered down.

2) Hold Vol+ and Power button together for 3sec.

3) When you see a resting Android with "no command" message, press just a Power button and while holding it down press Vol+ to get into Android Recovery.

4) Use Vol +/- key to navigate up/down through the menu and Power button to select menu item.

5) Wipe cache partition first, then do Wipe data/factory reset.

Last thought in terms of initial use... charge to full, and then use until its dead about 2-3 times... really calibrates the battery for proper charge and use cycles... will definitely extend battery life for playback and longevity.
Enjoy... this player is awesome!

I wish this false information would stop spreading. This over-recommended step of letting the batteries die and charge to 100% no longer applies to lithium-ion and lithium-polymer (basically lithium-ion also) batteries in the last 2 decades. In fact it actually kills batteries faster. Techies have continued to believe that this practice, which did apply to early designs of lithium batteries, is still needed for current equipment today, when in fact the design of current lithium-ion (and polymer) batteries will cause a LOSS in permanent charging capability when the battery drops below 60% or so for an extended period of time. The lower the charge goes before it recharges can have more drastic effects. Think of these batteries like a shock-spring that is naturally extended, a spring naturally wants to stay at its extended/manufactured state (battery full). When compacted (losing charge), it wants to go back to its normal state. The more it compacts, the weaker the spring (battery) becomes. Over time, it will not extend as far. The further you compact it for longer periods of time, the less it will want to extend back to its normal state.

Basically, the more you discharge it (lose charge = discharge) to a low-level, the less longevity the battery will have. This is ESPECIALLY the case in the first 60 days you own a new battery in a device. DO NOT let the battery drop below ~60% during the first 2 months of use, if you want to get the most battery out of the device. And keeping it charged as much as possible will help it to last.

This misinformation has spread way to far, and a lot of advanced computer hardware engineers even think this is still how you should treat batteries, but none of them have kept up with the times of how current lithium batteries have been in the last 20 years somehow. :/

New R6 Pro owner. Looking for Day 1 advice from current owners... what should I be doing to prep my device? I assume step 1 is charge the battery, step 2 is connect to WiFi, and step 3 is look for any OTA updates... what else?

Quoting you so you see my post above. I urge you not to let the battery lose charge like the other person recommended. He is not doing it because he is necessarily misinformed. The problem is a large amount of people still think that current lithium batteries work the same way as older generation lithium batteries, and this information is taking forever to hit the masses. I have been able to keep a near full charge on most of my game consoles and portable devices for years by following this standard.

 

[duncan21]

Than you guys, have tried all the methods, nothing works.

Need to send it back to the local distributor.

 

[jsmiller58]

***Edit: ok, this what happens when you don’t pay attention... to yourself. I myself engaged others on this thread regarding the need for an iEMatch solution for sensitive IEMs and the R6 Pro... I wish past jsmiller58 had ordered a 2.5mm version of the iEMatch solution so it would fit into my 2.5mm to 4.4mm adapter.

Warning to potential buyers. The R6 Pro hisses like a basket of snakes with sensitive IEMs. Have a solution on hand.***

(Original post)

Another R6 Pro question...

When no music is playing, the background is dead silent. When I play any content on Tidal, YouTube Audio, YouTube, or through the USB Audio Player Pro apps a loud hiss starts up. When I stop playing the content, and even keeping the app open the hiss wii continue for a few seconds then suddenly stop.

I am running from the balanced output.

I am running firmware - R6PROINT_1.11GBeta_20190127_1546 - my device reports the software is up to date.

What is this? Is there a setting I have missed? Is this a known bug or do I have a lemon?

The device is unusable with this hiss.