Oops, updating here. I managed to get it working. It wasn't reading a special character from my password; so i put in a new password via desktop and now it's working. I like it, it has fewer crashes using Qobuz than with Tidal.Qobuz doesnt work with this player, on any fw. Iwrote about it but there is no answer.
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Hiby R3 Pro Portable Bluetooth DAP
- Thread starter acygni
- Start date
Exactly, that was another embarrassing point that md slowed me down in testing here.In oder to change between streaming services you have to press and hold the Tidal icon until you see a pop up list and then you can select Qobuz. This is nos mentioned anywhere in the manual nor the website I saw that on a YouTube video cuz when I got my player I also cannot figure it out.
I'm currently experiencing similar issues to you. I would love album artist tab included in Hiby OS but Hiby hasn't included it thus far. I have inquired via email in the past and Hiby has not responded to the application. As far as the software issues with 2.0 I would recommend either installing 2.01 Beta version or downgrading like your mentioned. There is a thread on reddit about the Beta version and you can read it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiby/comments/10k9wm4/hiby_r3_pro_saber_2022_etc_firmware_beta_v201/Having used the R3 Pro Saber for a while, I have a couple of pet peeves
- buggy firmware/UI (I tried v2, kept rebooting, went back to 1.7, where it reboots less often), lack of some basic functions (e.g - group/list by album artis)
- very weak BT - connection cuts out already at 2-3m
As far as Bluetooth, I have the Hiby R3 Pro Saber 2022 edition and I don't have issues with bluetooth range at least not thus far.
Thanks for the pictures. It's pretty cool to see the internals of the Hiby R3 2022 edition as I have this device. Why did you open up the device if I may ask?I confirm that HiBy R3ProSaber 2022 has two ES9219C DACs. Here are my photos
I'm currently experiencing similar issues to you. I would love album artist tab included in Hiby OS but Hiby hasn't included it thus far. I have inquired via email in the past and Hiby has not responded to the application. As far as the software issues with 2.0 I would recommend either installing 2.01 Beta version or downgrading like your mentioned. There is a thread on reddit about the Beta version and you can read it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiby/comments/10k9wm4/hiby_r3_pro_saber_2022_etc_firmware_beta_v201/
As far as Bluetooth, I have the Hiby R3 Pro Saber 2022 edition and I don't have issues with bluetooth range at least not thus far. However, I have only used bluetooth a couple of times with a JBL speaker in a social gathering and the device was stationary near the speaker (10 feet away max).
I had random reboots even on FW 2.01, and random freezing UI during play and scrolling Tidal playlists. I opened up the device to get access to UART pins.Thanks for the pictures. It's pretty cool to see the internals of the Hiby R3 2022 edition as I have this device. Why did you open up the device if I may ask?
I didn't find another way to get the error logs other than have the access to the serial console.
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I have experienced random freezing when opening artist with a lot of albums (20 or more albums). For this reason, I have transition to listen to my music in folder view because the performance of the device is mediocre at best. I hope Hiby considers upgrading their CPU and ram in their future models of non-android music players.I had random reboots even on FW 2.01, and random freezing UI during play and scrolling Tidal playlists. I opened up the device to get access to UART pins.
I didn't find another way to get the error logs other than have the access to the serial console.
I do not use Tidal thus, I cannot comment on the performance of the device utilizing Tidal.
XTF1
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Any interesting messages/errors from the UART connection?I had random reboots even on FW 2.01, and random freezing UI during play and scrolling Tidal playlists. I opened up the device to get access to UART pins.
I didn't find another way to get the error logs other than have the access to the serial console.
I'll post the logs later if you interested.Any interesting messages/errors from the UART connection?
I didn't catch any of random reboots in whole evening, playing Tidal tracks, scrolling playlists and switching to play the files from microSD.
I noticed thought the http client (thread) (that starts from Tidal tap or online radio station tap) haven't stop and continue works in background until I starts playing the track from microSD card or turn off WiFi. Sometimes that http client does a lot of pending requests and it makes user interface freezes - the only thing that available from GUI is switch off WiFi from sliding menu. Moreover there is no "stop" button anywhere in the player interface, just "pause".
The most of UI lags and freezes are related to 'SQLite 3' database requests and showing album covers. Offline plays from microSD uses 'usrlocal_media.db' in internal memory. Tidal client uses '.tidal/tidal.db' in the microSD for storing/reading album covers.
Other GUI resource related lags can be reduced with optimization of theme *.png files and system fonts, like in custom firmwares https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the...pro-on-sale-now.872288/page-400#post-15300999
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It also supports external BT USB audio transmitter KB9P with aptX BT codec (related thread https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aptx-adaptive-aptx-lossless-usb-transmitters.961856/ )
It has more stable BT connection with TWS and HiBy WU1.
The player recognize that USB BT transmitter as USB audio device.
It has more stable BT connection with TWS and HiBy WU1.
The player recognize that USB BT transmitter as USB audio device.
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Here are some logs: play and pause, change the tracks, local play and online play, play from folder and play from database etc.
The cracking sound (output to 3.5 jack) in first seconds of the some MQA tracks corresponds to these messages on log:
others MQA tracks for test are here (column "MQA stereo original resolution") http://web.archive.org/web/20191117105557/www.2l.no/hires/
BTW
And I never seen purple led indicator light (must be MQA Rendering) and led state in log must be "state 10" or "state 0xA", again never seen that.
The cracking sound (output to 3.5 jack) in first seconds of the some MQA tracks corresponds to these messages on log:
the track http://web.archive.org/web/20191117...g.no/hires/mqa-2018/2L-064_08_stereo.mqa.flac[ 2085.941831] r3pro_trigger stop
[ 2086.526078] r3pro_trigger start
[ 2088.768422] r3pro_trigger stop
[ 2089.391950] r3pro_trigger start
[ 2091.634281] r3pro_trigger stop
[ 2092.245073] r3pro_trigger start
others MQA tracks for test are here (column "MQA stereo original resolution") http://web.archive.org/web/20191117105557/www.2l.no/hires/
BTW
means blue led indicator light - corresponds to playing MQA Studio track.(GUI)system_if: system_if_set_led state 9
And I never seen purple led indicator light (must be MQA Rendering) and led state in log must be "state 10" or "state 0xA", again never seen that.
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I have actually experience the cracking sound multiple times on 2.01 version as well.Here are some logs: play and pause, change the tracks, local play and online play, play from folder and play from database etc.
The cracking sound (output to 3.5 jack) in first seconds of the some MQA tracks corresponds to these messages on log:
the track http://web.archive.org/web/20191117...g.no/hires/mqa-2018/2L-064_08_stereo.mqa.flac
others MQA tracks for test are here (column "MQA stereo original resolution") http://web.archive.org/web/20191117105557/www.2l.no/hires/
BTW
means blue led indicator light - corresponds to playing MQA Studio track.
And I never seen purple led indicator light (must be MQA Rendering) and led state in log must be "state 10" or "state 0xA", again never seen that.
VeightTripleDivision
Head-Fier
After more than 1,5 year of active service my R3 Pro had battery weakness, which also gave it Random crashes and freezes.
So I broke the rear glass, and swapped battery. The new battery was cheap mobile phone battery, which was not very good. Then I got another one, which is 2300mAh, had to take off R3's inner plastic edges a little with knife for it to fit.
Now I get real good hours, so I wrote Hiby an e-mail asking if they could sell me the rear glass cover. They did, 15$+shipping. Now waiting for it to arrive, seems like the new battery is also thicker, so I might need some filler around edges. Will see how it goes.
So I broke the rear glass, and swapped battery. The new battery was cheap mobile phone battery, which was not very good. Then I got another one, which is 2300mAh, had to take off R3's inner plastic edges a little with knife for it to fit.
Now I get real good hours, so I wrote Hiby an e-mail asking if they could sell me the rear glass cover. They did, 15$+shipping. Now waiting for it to arrive, seems like the new battery is also thicker, so I might need some filler around edges. Will see how it goes.
During past disassembly I noticed that the shield is just EMI shield, not a heatsink. So I decided to try use it as heatsink. One of my guess was overheat caused instability and reboots.
I placed silicone thermal pads (0.5mm thickness, just for reference https://aliexpress.us/item/1005003898523461.html) under the shield on potentially heated ICs: SoC X1000, FPGA HBC3000, DACs ES9219C. The pads are soft, thin, electric non-conductive, and non-adhesive, so it's safe to place on other electric components near IC (see the photo).
But there is important warning: to take off and place back the shield safety, you need to desolder battery wires. The shield locked on the motherboard with tiny metallic locks, and there is a chance to make short circuit trying to take it off or correctly placing back. For safety reasons I do not recommend this for unexperienced users.
I placed silicone thermal pads (0.5mm thickness, just for reference https://aliexpress.us/item/1005003898523461.html) under the shield on potentially heated ICs: SoC X1000, FPGA HBC3000, DACs ES9219C. The pads are soft, thin, electric non-conductive, and non-adhesive, so it's safe to place on other electric components near IC (see the photo).
But there is important warning: to take off and place back the shield safety, you need to desolder battery wires. The shield locked on the motherboard with tiny metallic locks, and there is a chance to make short circuit trying to take it off or correctly placing back. For safety reasons I do not recommend this for unexperienced users.
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