[dw6928]

well thanks, I have learned a great deal about hard drives. I appreciate it.

 

[DennyL]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dw6928 /img/forum/go_quote.gif there is a school of thought that believes that there is much less wear and tear on your hard drive if you leave it running as opposed to the wear caused by start up and shut down. this happens to be a large group that believes this.

It is true, than many people believed this, but times change. If you listen to or watch almost any news bulletin or read a news paper you will learn that the planet is in crisis due to global warming. For example, in Australia people are limited to using 180 litres of water a day and if there is no rain in the next six to eight weeks, irrigation will be banned and crops and animals will die and farmers will go bankrupt. In the UK this April will turn out to be 3 deg warmer than the historical average. We all have a duty to do whatever we can to reduce our energy consumption. Who here on Head-fi believes that the sound quality of their system or the longevity of their hard drive is more important than saving the planet for future generations?

 

[dw6928]

certainly not I.

 

[d-cee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by daggerlee /img/forum/go_quote.gif d-cee, the large power thump you get when you turn it on and off is related to the DC offset. as I have noted time and time again the NE5532 produces very high levels of DC offset, around 30-35 mA (the DIY community considers 20 mA to be the absolute maximum safestl evel, although other people say 50 mA is the limit) since the new opamps you use have much lower DC offset the thump will be lower....

actually the thump never happened with the NE5532 that i can recall, it did happen with the AD823 and DY2000 though, which both measured well below 20mv of offset iirc. haven't yet measured the offset in the AD843s, will do eventually
Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif 1. 16v 4700uF Jamicon caps planned replacement: Nichicon FX 10,000uF 16V 2. 35v 100uF Jamicon caps planned replacement: 100uF Elna Silmic II 3. 63v 10uF Jamicon caps planned replacement: 10uF Elna Silmic II Questions: 1. Will the Nichicon FX series be an overkill? How is it if i get the Elna Slimic II 4,700uF 16V instead? 2. What's the minimum voltage rating required for caps 2 & 3?

i'd replace all caps with new ones at least rated as high as what's in there now. with the big power caps, you can probably try fitting in 22,000uF 16v caps would work

 

[yrh0413]

Quote:

Originally Posted by d-cee /img/forum/go_quote.gif i'd replace all caps with new ones at least rated as high as what's in there now. with the big power caps, you can probably try fitting in 22,000uF 16v caps would work

d-cee, is this list ok?
(2) Panasonic TSHA Al electrolytic cap,10000uF 16V
(2) Elna Silmic II 10uF 25V
(2) Elna Silmic II 100uF 35V
(4) Rectifier diode,MUR820 8A 200V
(4) Rectifier diode,UF4002 1A 100V
(6) PHE426 radial polyprop cap,470nF 250Vdc

Questions:
Quoted in red: Which is better? The MUR820s are slightly more expensive than the UF4002. From the specification sheet it seems that the 820s have faster recovery time than the UF4002s.

I notice there are 7 white film caps on the stock board, but why is everyone replacing 6 out of 7? In your mod list i notice you swapped 6 470nF polypropylene (which white film cap that you didn't swap out?)

Thanks!

 

[oqvist]

Lenny you are talking about a totally different thing

.

This thread is about the Heed Canamp not global warming.

 

[dw6928]

Well it kind of took this turn with the suggestion of leaving the Heed amp on 24 hours a day and the potential waste of energy. Perhaps back on topic is a good idea; what a great amp! how is that.

 

[d-cee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif d-cee, is this list ok? (2) Panasonic TSHA Al electrolytic cap,10000uF 16V (2) Elna Silmic II 10uF 25V (2) Elna Silmic II 100uF 35V (4) Rectifier diode,MUR820 8A 200V (4) Rectifier diode,UF4002 1A 100V (6) PHE426 radial polyprop cap,470nF 250Vdc Questions: Quoted in red: Which is better? The MUR820s are slightly more expensive than the UF4002. From the specification sheet it seems that the 820s have faster recovery time than the UF4002s. I notice there are 7 white film caps on the stock board, but why is everyone replacing 6 out of 7? In your mod list i notice you swapped 6 470nF polypropylene (which white film cap that you didn't swap out?) Thanks!

i'm not sure about the diodes to be honest, if it has faster recovery time i imagine that is the better if all else being equal. but i am not too familiar with diodes and how their specs affect the sound.

as for your choice in polyprop caps, theyre the same as the ones i use, however they are huge! and are a pain in the ***** to install, all of mine are mounted under the board and in various locations further down the track than in their original holes, i strongly suggest getting smaller caps.

i replaced all the film caps on my canamp with these polyprops

the rest of the caps looks fine but i still reckon you should get 22,000uF/16v or 10,000uF/35v caps

nothing like overkill

edit: oh and don't forget about the DIP-8 socket and some browndogs for easy opamp rolling!

 

[jeremiah]

Hi guys, I've been away for quite a while, been busy with work and all. Managed to wire the funds to Alpar just now, hopefully my CanAmp can be shipped out soon, can't wait can't wait!!

Oh yeah, in the meantime, does anybody have suggestions for good cables? I need a stereo-mini to RCA for connecting my sound card to the amp,oh yeah, are these called "interconnects"? (Yes, me is Noob)

I'll be going with output from an Auzen X-Meridian to CanAmp then k701 if that information is any helpful (which I doubt is,haha). Any particular cable that would work well to connect my soundcard to the amp? I heard a saying that a bad interconnect can jeopordize the whole system! Talk about the weakest link...hehe. I hope that's not true, at least for me, cause I certainly have no idea what is good! Heard about Canare and something Musical Bluey thing and all, well, i'm all ears now so throw out your best!

 

[yrh0413]

Quote:

Originally Posted by d-cee /img/forum/go_quote.gif i'm not sure about the diodes to be honest, if it has faster recovery time i imagine that is the better if all else being equal. but i am not too familiar with diodes and how their specs affect the sound. as for your choice in polyprop caps, theyre the same as the ones i use, however they are huge! and are a pain in the ***** to install, all of mine are mounted under the board and in various locations further down the track than in their original holes, i strongly suggest getting smaller caps. i replaced all the film caps on my canamp with these polyprops the rest of the caps looks fine but i still reckon you should get 22,000uF/16v or 10,000uF/35v caps nothing like overkill edit: oh and don't forget about the DIP-8 socket and some browndogs for easy opamp rolling!

Haha the dip8 socket will definitely be there, no worries! I'm still reluctant to swap the film caps as i don't think they will bring much effect to the sound. I'd checked RS and they state that the 22k uF 35V are 50mm tall, not sure whether they will fit (not going to take the risk as the 22k uF cost more than USD10 a piece). Lolz i didn't know i listed the wrong caps in the list above; it should be 10,000uF 35V instead of 16V.

As for the polypropylenes, i cannot order smaller values due to budget constrains. Its not a wise choice to order 6 different polyprops with different values in a packet of 10! Buy 60 polyprops and use 6? Lolz!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremiah /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi guys, I've been away for quite a while, been busy with work and all. Managed to wire the funds to Alpar just now, hopefully my CanAmp can be shipped out soon, can't wait can't wait!! Oh yeah, in the meantime, does anybody have suggestions for good cables? I need a stereo-mini to RCA for connecting my sound card to the amp,oh yeah, are these called "interconnects"? (Yes, me is Noob) I'll be going with output from an Auzen X-Meridian to CanAmp then k701 if that information is any helpful (which I doubt is,haha). Any particular cable that would work well to connect my soundcard to the amp? I heard a saying that a bad interconnect can jeopordize the whole system! Talk about the weakest link...hehe. I hope that's not true, at least for me, cause I certainly have no idea what is good! Heard about Canare and something Musical Bluey thing and all, well, i'm all ears now so throw out your best!

Congrats friend! I'm using Canare L-4E6S with Canare F-10 RCA plugs from my 0404 PCI. It does sounds decent but i'm going to upgrade to 1212m very soon. Do keep us updated on your purchase progress ya!

 

[arirug]

I bought the chord ichord:

http://www.avreview.co.uk/review/rev...20311234140416

 

[yrh0413]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkfloyd Never go under with cap voltage rating.... ok to go higher but only up to the next voltage rating (with an electrolytic) Best thing to do is measure the voltage across the existing caps (probe across the pads with your voltmeter set on the DC scale) If it's 26V then go with 35V not 25V if it's less than 25V then go with 25V caps.

anyone knows what are the voltage ratings for the 10uF and 100uF caps? Thanks in advance

 

[d-cee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackbird Audio /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm still of the opinion to leave the amp on all the time. This way you don't have to wait for it to get to operating temperature, where it will sound its best. When you're ready, it's ready for you! Just turn the volume all the way down and/or unplug the cans in case of something big getting on the line such as a lightning strike, so you don't loose the cans too. There are good after market power filters that will offer spike protection for such an apllication. Some even have insurance to replace your devices should they get damaged by a spike when using their products. Just listen to be sure they don't restrict the amp's current draw when you run it with one of them.

thanks dan, i do usually leave it on after work > bed time for the above reason but switch it off between sleep and work hours. i do feel that the sound is stabilised after a half hour or so of warm up time
Quote:

Originally Posted by daggerlee /img/forum/go_quote.gif d-cee, the large power thump you get when you turn it on and off is related to the DC offset. as I have noted time and time again the NE5532 produces very high levels of DC offset, around 30-35 mA (the DIY community considers 20 mA to be the absolute maximum safestl evel, although other people say 50 mA is the limit) since the new opamps you use have much lower DC offset the thump will be lower...

just measured the offsets from my AD823, DY2000 and AD843s they all have negligable offsets at the headphone out. all coming in at <3mV with the AD843s being closest to zero with measured offsets of like 0.5mV at the worst of times (floats between 0.1-0.3mV usually) which is surprisingly good considering some of the numbers that come out of my DAC's RCA outputs.
Quote:

Originally Posted by yrh0413 /img/forum/go_quote.gif anyone knows what are the voltage ratings for the 10uF and 100uF caps? Thanks in advance

I'll pop her open and measure that for you when i get the chance

 

[yrh0413]

thanks in advance d-cee!

 

[Canuck57]

I have about 100 hours of burn-in so far on my Heed. I've listened so far with Beyer DT990s and AKG 340s and I'm very pleased. There's solid bass, smooth mids and crystal clear extended highs. There's also a great spaciousness/airiness to the music