[wormsdriver]

What kind of glue did you use? most would be using hot glue for sleeve to cups but I've seen a few where they used wood glue which is a PITA to remove, like how Grado mounts their drivers in the wooden sleeves which I found vinegar to help soften.

Yup, wood glue. I figured i was happy with the metal/wood combo. They always seem to work good on the Magnums.
They do sound excellent BTW, except for that peek which was eq down effectively, but you know how it is, we're always trying to squeeze out more out of these cans.

 

[fleasbaby]

Yup, wood glue. I figured i was happy with the metal/wood combo. They always seem to work good on the Magnums.
They do sound excellent BTW, except for that peek which was eq down effectively, but you know how it is, we're always trying to squeeze out more out of these cans.

Indeed. Not only that, we do the squeezing by hopping from driver to driver, each developed by competing/different companies who (as far as I know) don’t pass notes to each other. YMMV indeed

 

[fleasbaby]

For what its worth....

• A stock Grado cup from the SRxxi/e series has an inner chamber that is just shy of 1 and 1/4 inches from the driver face to the grill.
  
• The stock Grado driver is about 3/8 thick (well, an old SR325 driver I have on hand, and an old Nhoord prototype, and some Nhoord Reds).
  
• That leaves roughly 7/8 of an inch between driver back and grill.
  
• The drivers are all about 1 and 6/8 wide. Half of that is 7/8 of an inch.

thelostMIDrange advised before that a cup's length shouldn't exceed 1 and 1/4 inches. He never tied it to math, or specifically said he was aiming for chamber length less than half the diameter of the driver, but this correlates very nicely with @Konstantin690 's observation (the chamber shouldn't be longer than 1/2 of the driver diameter).

Another nice piece of information for the community I guess.

 

[wormsdriver]

ok so I removed the drivers and tried them in shorter enclosures. One wood, one plastic, sibilance was minimally reduced, What? I don't remember the R1 drivers ever being sibilant so something else must be the culprit! I had just started using blutak to hold the drivers in the cups so I then tried foam on the plastic cups which were design this way by @Rhydon to isolate the driver (I believe) and that worked! the blutak was making the R1 drivers very sharp and peaking at those sibilant frequencies! I moved them back to my original metal/wood cups but the foam was too thick for mounting the drivers so I used electrical tape instead to create enough friction for press fitting the drivers in and that also worked! Sibilance has been greatly reduced but I was still hearing a tiny bit of it... I then listened to my Ps2000e and Ether C and was hearing some sibilance there that I've never heard before. I switched sources, still there! What!? Am I going nuts!? Lol

The only thing I can think of is that over the weekend I attended a birthday party in a dance hall and unfortunately our table was too close to the DJ's damn speakers and that S.O.B. had the music up to 11! Seriously, it was so uncomfortable we left after about 30 - 40 minutes after the music started. I thought my hearing was back to normal by the next morning but after listening to music yesterday and today my ears still seem to be fatigued from that experience. Guess I'll have to take it easy for a few days.

Have you guys ever experience such a thing?

 

[wormsdriver]

A few more pictures:

 

[fleasbaby]

ok so I removed the drivers and tried them in shorter enclosures. One wood, one plastic, sibilance was minimally reduced, What? I don't remember the R1 drivers ever being sibilant so something else must be the culprit! I had just started using blutak to hold the drivers in the cups so I then tried foam on the plastic cups which were design this way by @Rhydon to isolate the driver (I believe) and that worked! the blutak was making the R1 drivers very sharp and peaking at those sibilant frequencies! I moved them back to my original metal/wood cups but the foam was too thick for mounting the drivers so I used electrical tape instead to create enough friction for press fitting the drivers in and that also worked! Sibilance has been greatly reduced but I was still hearing a tiny bit of it... I then listened to my Ps2000e and Ether C and was hearing some sibilance there that I've never heard before. I switched sources, still there! What!? Am I going nuts!? Lol

The only thing I can think of is that over the weekend I attended a birthday party in a dance hall and unfortunately our table was too close to the DJ's damn speakers and that S.O.B. had the music up to 11! Seriously, it was so uncomfortable we left after about 30 - 40 minutes after the music started. I thought my hearing was back to normal by the next morning but after listening to music yesterday and today my ears still seem to be fatigued from that experience. Guess I'll have to take it easy for a few days.

Have you guys ever experience such a thing?

That event might be the culprit...but I've experienced a similar "smoothing" when using a foam mount. My daily drivers are foam mounted Magnum V8. Press-fit is much loved, and has its benefits, but when looking for long-term listening comfort I've always seen foam-fit as a valid option. I'm sure I'm committing some sort of audiophile sacrilege doing this, but life is short, and hearing declines with age, so...

 

[wormsdriver]

Friends don't let friends glue their wooden sleeves to their metal cups. Lol

 

[wormsdriver]

@Konstantin690 have you ever tried felt in front of the driver?

 

[Konstantin690]

@Konstantin690 have you ever tried felt in front of the driver?

Felt no, but I've tried very thin foam material from some other headphones and they "robbed" something, I didn't like it.
The most acoustically transparent material so far is the fabric inside the Audeze pads, looks like the dust cloth used in front of speakers, very thin.

 

[wormsdriver]

It seems I'm becoming more sensitive to some higher frequencies or maybe I'm listening at higher volumes than what I have in the past so I'm trying to warm them up a bit.

Also it might be that I have the ps2000e and im getting used to the sound so in comparison the r1 sounds bright and I'm trying to get my R1 build closer to that sound.

I've been tweaking the R1 quite a bit lately and I've tried many things. They sound good with TTVJ flat pads, L-cush, L-cush tape mod, and I tried the G-cush but mids and highs sound a bit thin and bass not as impactful with the g-cush. When I was just using the L-cush I started using a ring made from a foam sheet of paper from the craft store around the top of the driver just underneath the pads. I found it reduces the higher frequencies warming up the sound a bit. I then tried it with the flat pads and it sounds great. I then compared it to the ps2ke but of course was missing the bigger soundstage. So I tried it with g-cush but again the sound got thin that's when I decided to try the felt over the driver and I actually ended up using a 2mm felt disc and a 1mm felt disc stacked together and im now getting closer to the psk2e sound.

I got the idea from the Ether C. Mr.speakers uses foam pads in front of the driver to tune the sound so I tried it out with the r1 with good success.

Anyhow sorry about the rambling but these drivers are really quite something and highly customizable!

 

[fleasbaby]

Friends don't let friends glue their wooden sleeves to their metal cups. Lol

Ouch...

It seems I'm becoming more sensitive to some higher frequencies or maybe I'm listening at higher volumes than what I have in the past so I'm trying to warm them up a bit.

Also it might be that I have the ps2000e and im getting used to the sound so in comparison the r1 sounds bright and I'm trying to get my R1 build closer to that sound.

I've been tweaking the R1 quite a bit lately and I've tried many things. They sound good with TTVJ flat pads, L-cush, L-cush tape mod, and I tried the G-cush but mids and highs sound a bit thin and bass not as impactful with the g-cush. When I was just using the L-cush I started using a ring made from a foam sheet of paper from the craft store around the top of the driver just underneath the pads. I found it reduces the higher frequencies warming up the sound a bit. I then tried it with the flat pads and it sounds great. I then compared it to the ps2ke but of course was missing the bigger soundstage. So I tried it with g-cush but again the sound got thin that's when I decided to try the felt over the driver and I actually ended up using a 2mm felt disc and a 1mm felt disc stacked together and im now getting closer to the psk2e sound.

I got the idea from the Ether C. Mr.speakers uses foam pads in front of the driver to tune the sound so I tried it out with the r1 with good success.

Anyhow sorry about the rambling but these drivers are really quite something and highly customizable!

Keep going! Onward in the name of science!

I remember briefly discussing mesh vs no mesh with some folks. Opinions were divided: it either affected or didn't affect the sound, and it was either necessary or unnecessary to protect the diaphragms. Some don't appear to dope the diaphragm, or at least use a dope that dries rapidly, and so can afford no mesh, others don't and run the risk of getting particles stuck on the diaphragm without it.

 

[wormsdriver]

Ouch...



Keep going! Onward in the name of science!



I remember briefly discussing mesh vs no mesh with some folks. Opinions were divided: it either affected or didn't affect the sound, and it was either necessary or unnecessary to protect the diaphragms. Some don't appear to dope the diaphragm, or at least use a dope that dries rapidly, and so can afford no mesh, others don't and run the risk of getting particles stuck on the diaphragm without it.

that's true! these R1 drivers don't seem to have that problem were particles will easily stick to them, other drivers were magnets for dust particles, etc.

 

[fleasbaby]

that's true! these R1 drivers don't seem to have that problem were particles will easily stick to them, other drivers were magnets for dust particles, etc.

One driver person said the mesh messed with their frequency responses as well...

 

[wormsdriver]

hey guys if anybody is interested I'm selling my R1 build: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/epsilon-r1-grado-build.888634/

 

[sling5s]

There seems to be a new driver: Epsilon P1