Oneminde
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How would you describe the difference, is the T60 more V shaped ?
Fostex T60RP
- Thread starter Sopp
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Oneminde
New Head-Fier
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"Refined Fostex proprietary Regular Phase (RP) diaphragm driver using copper foil etched polyimide film and powerful neodymium magnet" - The material is also known as Kapton and does exist as flexible PCB material. Her is my question: Since the diaphragm size is roughly 38x38mm - making it 38mm in diameter. Increasing it to 50mm is a 31% size increase. What I am proposing is to use the same pattern, same track width etc but add 1-2 tracks and make then 31% longer. Has anyone considered doing this ???
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Asahi Templar
100+ Head-Fier
For most people, the opposite actually, the Hifiman headphones will sound more V shaped, especially the 400i/4xx.
The dips from 1-2k on the Hifiman headphones causes vocals to sound further away from you in the mix and the strong energy around 4k causes the attack of some instruments to sound very strong/close to you. The combined effect is that vocals sound more distant and instruments closer than normal. Many people would describe this as sounding "v shaped" though is not a true V as the whole midrange is not recessed. They have a pretty unique presentation because of their upper mids that some people will love. I am just not one of them. Of course when EQed they can be made to sound more neutral and I think they are great with EQ,
The T60RP is more correct in its handling of the uppermids which causes vocals and instruments to be placed normally in the mix. It does have a little extra energy around the midbass and that fairly large 10k treble spike, but the mids are not recessed in anyway. If you arent really sensitive to the 4k region perhaps the attack of some instruments will sound a little lacking, but I think for many people the dip is good as our ears are most sensitive in that region. Some people would describe it as bright because of the 10k spike, but I wouldnt say V shaped.
kintsaki
500+ Head-Fier
I have been stranded by a snow storm in my summer home and with no Internet Service for the last several days an as a result, I did not see your posts asking for my opinion.
I had not had any experience on any of the hardware you are asking me to comment on. I could attempt to voice an opinion based on specs and graphs, but I really believe that is not possible so I will not comment. There are very many reasons you cannot predict performance on specs.
It would take a very long post for me to to convince you and, in the end, you would go on believing what your DNA and prior experience tells you to believe. Sometime in the future you will get the experience and knowledge required to rethink your beliefs.
This is not to say that you are on the wrong track, for the most part you are and you are doing fine but you are not there yet.
If money is an object (and for many of you it is) then my advice is to go for the t20/40/50, the t60 is not a good value, it has wood but not top pads it is refined yet somewhat treble hot and it could be improved on bass and soundstage.
The way to mod it to achieve significant improvement on bass and soundstage without sacrificing other things, and this is true for any Tx0, is to increase the internal size of the enclosure. Messing with the driver can only take away the Regular Phase. Playing with baffle vent openings and size and density of foam rings only tunes treble/bass tone and Frequency Response to personal preferences.
Enclosure size can be increased two ways.
One way, is obviously to replace the cups with larger ones, that is how Dan (of MrSpeakers) improved the T50 with the 3D printed caps and the deep true leather Alpha pads, later Zack that was initially relying in deep pads did it with the Ori cups.
Smeggy was 5 years ahead of them with the larger all wood cups but thin pads, although adding Alpha pads greatly improved base response.
Further increasing the size of the Smeggy's, like I accidentally did with the M1060 wooden rings after I damaged their drivers, resulted in a phone that came as close to speakers as anyone could imagine and in addition added tremendously on the body of the voices and the instruments in a way that is only present in live concerts. If we could add venting ports in a redesigned baffle for the Smeggy’s we could get a phone that could not be easily surpassed.
The second way of increase apparent size, to a moderate degree, is to use fiberglass to fill the enclosure because of the laws of thermodynamics associated with the thermal insulation of fiberglass.
This is done for 60$ by Mayflower and results in a truly bass mean phone but with problems in the mid-range. Luckily if we reduce the size and density of the baffle ring and add some of the material that Dan sells for upgrading the Ether C flow to 1.1 (29$ kit) or other equivalent material we get back all the mid-range and tame the treble and end up with a more efficient bass, mid and treble head all at the same time, a hell of a fun to listen to for days headset with no fatigue. I bet you this is what Mod house does with the Argons to achieve base soundstage and fun to listen to Frequency response.
It is only slightly less refined than the T60 (perhaps due to the absence of wood).
So, you may ask why haven’t you or Hiroaki of Fostex done so already?
For one, because then Zeos would run out of endgames.!
Well no, Zeos is my favorite reviewer, because he is helpful imaginative and resourceful.
I, being in Greece, luck the means (3D printing shops, CNC, wood working etc.) and Hiroaki needs to keep coming up every year with newer and better models to sell.
Speaking of Zeos,
Watch his video to see how enlarged cups can make a headphone sound kind like a speaker.
They are no way clean and sound weird this is because the original drivers are no good (he says they are like Senns and I am a hell of an anti-Senn guy)
Had you done this to an RP you would have headphones sounding like Apogee Acoustics speakers.
and here is the link for the Apogee speakers
http://www.apogeeacoustics.com/news.html
Now as for those that prefer an analytical sound and don't have an ifi USB to clean up the dirt coming off that horrible connection, what can I say, they are hard core audiophiles.
I had not had any experience on any of the hardware you are asking me to comment on. I could attempt to voice an opinion based on specs and graphs, but I really believe that is not possible so I will not comment. There are very many reasons you cannot predict performance on specs.
It would take a very long post for me to to convince you and, in the end, you would go on believing what your DNA and prior experience tells you to believe. Sometime in the future you will get the experience and knowledge required to rethink your beliefs.
This is not to say that you are on the wrong track, for the most part you are and you are doing fine but you are not there yet.
If money is an object (and for many of you it is) then my advice is to go for the t20/40/50, the t60 is not a good value, it has wood but not top pads it is refined yet somewhat treble hot and it could be improved on bass and soundstage.
The way to mod it to achieve significant improvement on bass and soundstage without sacrificing other things, and this is true for any Tx0, is to increase the internal size of the enclosure. Messing with the driver can only take away the Regular Phase. Playing with baffle vent openings and size and density of foam rings only tunes treble/bass tone and Frequency Response to personal preferences.
Enclosure size can be increased two ways.
One way, is obviously to replace the cups with larger ones, that is how Dan (of MrSpeakers) improved the T50 with the 3D printed caps and the deep true leather Alpha pads, later Zack that was initially relying in deep pads did it with the Ori cups.
Smeggy was 5 years ahead of them with the larger all wood cups but thin pads, although adding Alpha pads greatly improved base response.
Further increasing the size of the Smeggy's, like I accidentally did with the M1060 wooden rings after I damaged their drivers, resulted in a phone that came as close to speakers as anyone could imagine and in addition added tremendously on the body of the voices and the instruments in a way that is only present in live concerts. If we could add venting ports in a redesigned baffle for the Smeggy’s we could get a phone that could not be easily surpassed.
The second way of increase apparent size, to a moderate degree, is to use fiberglass to fill the enclosure because of the laws of thermodynamics associated with the thermal insulation of fiberglass.
This is done for 60$ by Mayflower and results in a truly bass mean phone but with problems in the mid-range. Luckily if we reduce the size and density of the baffle ring and add some of the material that Dan sells for upgrading the Ether C flow to 1.1 (29$ kit) or other equivalent material we get back all the mid-range and tame the treble and end up with a more efficient bass, mid and treble head all at the same time, a hell of a fun to listen to for days headset with no fatigue. I bet you this is what Mod house does with the Argons to achieve base soundstage and fun to listen to Frequency response.
It is only slightly less refined than the T60 (perhaps due to the absence of wood).
So, you may ask why haven’t you or Hiroaki of Fostex done so already?
For one, because then Zeos would run out of endgames.!
Well no, Zeos is my favorite reviewer, because he is helpful imaginative and resourceful.
I, being in Greece, luck the means (3D printing shops, CNC, wood working etc.) and Hiroaki needs to keep coming up every year with newer and better models to sell.
Speaking of Zeos,
Watch his video to see how enlarged cups can make a headphone sound kind like a speaker.
They are no way clean and sound weird this is because the original drivers are no good (he says they are like Senns and I am a hell of an anti-Senn guy)
Had you done this to an RP you would have headphones sounding like Apogee Acoustics speakers.
and here is the link for the Apogee speakers
http://www.apogeeacoustics.com/news.html
Now as for those that prefer an analytical sound and don't have an ifi USB to clean up the dirt coming off that horrible connection, what can I say, they are hard core audiophiles.
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Oneminde
New Head-Fier
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Lets start with this one. I sort of understand where you come from in your argument, but you are also making assumptions. Perhaps because it is easier or your experience tells you that most people are slightly stupid and maybe they have brand loyalty to consider, or maybe they fall victim for marketing. While I do have a belief system like everybody (including you) mine is flexible. "You know what you know until you know more". Loudspeakers; I had to accept the fact that membrane material used is less connected to how the driver sounds, the difference between a very detailed and accurate acoustical performance was down to other parameters, likewise, hard dome drivers does not equal poor performance which many believe. I have heard soft dome tweeters that outperform hyper modern hard domes. But this wasn't always the case, it used to be: "The harder the material, the better acoustical performance" but this is not true. Its a combination of factors and in the end, if a driver, headphone or loudspeaker is better, then it is better and arguments are futile. But we know that is not how people work. I try not to be set in my ways because my ways is not more important than truth or fact. Its okay to be biased as long as you are aware of it and accept that others might not share your opinions. The point is that, if you are happy with what you've got, cool. That should not upset anyone, but as it goes, people love to impose their opinion (not saying you in particular are doing so), because what they believe must equal the truth and everyone must know this truth - "For I have seen the light"
I talked to another loudspeaker engineer about the objective perspective how a loudspeaker should be acoustically tune - yes, I work as a loudspeaker engineer - and he stated that a loudspeaker should be as neutral as possible, boringly neutral. The Fletcher Munson Curve or Equal loudness is down to the recording or sound engineer. He is absolutely correct, how can I prove this. Simple. Look at amplifiers and their measurements. Anything that is not flat between say 5 Hz to 100kHz is consider poor performance. I have listened to fairly popular loudspeakers which many like, they have a Fletcher Munson curve and is tuned that way and using modern driver materials, it is obviously an engineering choice (biased) but it is not correct from an objective perspective. I assume they did so in order for the loudspeakers and drivers to sound more detailed and clear than what they do in reality. Bring them down to a neutral frequency response and they might sound veiled and boring. Then there are loudspeakers tuned to a neutral response which sound many times more accurate and have clarity, brilliance & presence the other loudspeaker can only dream of - read as better drivers and filters.
Its very dangerous to be dogmatic about the things one preach. Open the door, show someone an alternative reality and give them options to both venture into it but also leave the door open so that they can leave at their own free will. That is the fundament I build my arguments on ... these days. So I very much appreciate your debate about damping factor, but it will not win any awards if the acoustical performance from the components and circuits if they perform subpar. And how a headphone and amplifier perform is divided into two groups - the objective and the subjective, the later always win.
This is what I am also thinking. I have theory's to why the T60 sound the way it does - not going to say better because better could be subjective - and so far, NO ONE has mentioned this factor. Either it is overlooked and/or people are unaware. I will certainly explore it which will either confirm it or not, I am neutral here since I have not confirmed my suspicions. Then there is all the other types of mods you have talked about. In due time I will start to experiment.
Zeos is okay, I like his style - he is himself for better or worse ... LOL, compared to other reviewers who have something stiff up their butt.
- Onemidne
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kintsaki
500+ Head-Fier
Lets start with this one. I sort of understand where you come from in your argument, but you are also making assumptions. Perhaps because it is easier or your experience tells you that most people are slightly stupid and maybe they have brand loyalty to consider, or maybe they fall victim for marketing. While I do have a belief system like everybody (including you) mine is flexible. "You know what you know until you know more". Loudspeakers; I had to accept the fact that membrane material used is less connected to how the driver sounds, the difference between a very detailed and accurate acoustical performance was down to other parameters, likewise, hard dome drivers does not equal poor performance which many believe. I have heard soft dome tweeters that outperform hyper modern hard domes. But this wasn't always the case, it used to be: "The harder the material, the better acoustical performance" but this is not true. Its a combination of factors and in the end, if a driver, headphone or loudspeaker is better, then it is better and arguments are futile. But we know that is not how people work. I try not to be set in my ways because my ways is not more important than truth or fact. Its okay to be biased as long as you are aware of it and accept that others might not share your opinions. The point is that, if you are happy with what you've got, cool. That should not upset anyone, but as it goes, people love to impose their opinion (not saying you in particular are doing so), because what they believe must equal the truth and everyone must know this truth - "For I have seen the light"
I talked to another loudspeaker engineer about the objective perspective how a loudspeaker should be acoustically tune - yes, I work as a loudspeaker engineer - and he stated that a loudspeaker should be as neutral as possible, boringly neutral. The Fletcher Munson Curve or Equal loudness is down to the recording or sound engineer. He is absolutely correct, how can I prove this. Simple. Look at amplifiers and their measurements. Anything that is not flat between say 5 Hz to 100kHz is consider poor performance. I have listened to fairly popular loudspeakers which many like, they have a Fletcher Munson curve and is tuned that way and using modern driver materials, it is obviously an engineering choice (biased) but it is not correct from an objective perspective. I assume they did so in order for the loudspeakers and drivers to sound more detailed and clear than what they do in reality. Bring them down to a neutral frequency response and they might sound veiled and boring. Then there are loudspeakers tuned to a neutral response which sound many times more accurate and have clarity, brilliance & presence the other loudspeaker can only dream of - read as better drivers and filters.
Its very dangerous to be dogmatic about the things one preach. Open the door, show someone an alternative reality and give them options to both venture into it but also leave the door open so that they can leave at their own free will. That is the fundament I build my arguments on ... these days. So I very much appreciate your debate about damping factor, but it will not win any awards if the acoustical performance from the components and circuits if they perform subpar. And how a headphone and amplifier perform is divided into two groups - the objective and the subjective, the later always win.
This is what I am also thinking. I have theory's to why the T60 sound the way it does - not going to say better because better could be subjective - and so far, NO ONE has mentioned this factor. Either it is overlooked and/or people are unaware. I will certainly explore it which will either confirm it or not, I am neutral here since I have not confirmed my suspicions. Then there is all the other types of mods you have talked about. In due time I will start to experiment.
Zeos is okay, I like his style - he is himself for better or worse ... LOL, compared to other reviewers who have something stiff up their butt.
- Onemidne
I am not sure I understand every point you are trying to make in response to my last post.
Everything I post is either a statement or a story (in both cases some are mine and some are other peoples')
Statements are opinions not facts, stories are past events.
My posts are presented in a black and white fashion (although in reality there are 500 shades of gray) in order
to be concise and avoid misunderstandings, and not to impose any of my opinions or beliefs.
I have already stated before that I am a low IQ (93) person and that I have learned quite a few things here that I was not aware of
and because of this I enjoy this forum. I liked most posts and flagged them so. I have re-evaluated many of my beliefs and
confirmed the findings of other people here and that helped me to improve the performance of my phones.
I do believe that people fall victims of marketing but more so of the placebo effect, that is why audio designers
run double blind tests to verify that some of their brilliant ideas have actually the desired effect.
I have described in detail all my mods and verified them with my colleagues in the University and in the Recording industry, and with my
top tier musician friends. I have also described what I would like to do to further modify or to design a phone based on the RP
drivers that I have not been able to implement due to my limited means because I now reside in Greece.
I have to make some assumptions because not everybody fills his profile but being stupid myself (IQ=93)
I never assume that other people are stupid.
In fact I have stated before to the people here "No matter what anybody tells you, trust your own ears and beliefs"
and have given people alternative suggestions when my primary one would not work for them.
Despite my 50 years experience and advanced education in this field I am more of a music-phile and I
prefer live performances and fun sounding systems to highly analytical ones. As a result I just made 500+
headfier after 15+ years here.
Oneminde
New Head-Fier
- Joined
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@kintsaki. It's Not How Smart You Are, It's How You're Smart!. I've met people who have 130+ in IQ and while they are more intelligent than me, they are not smarter, and I have met people who have less IQ than me but show evidence of sometimes making smarter decision. So while I have a higher IQ score than you, I would not worry If I where you. In the end, it is how you use your knowledge and how you solve problems that matter. Also, people with high IQ typically experience less joy than someone who has an average IQ (90-110) because they overthink things, and a persons IQ is like a muscle, it can be trained and grow
You made several comments which I am not going to argue about / against, but I largely agree on stuff that is considered general or apply on a large portion of the population. We have a personal history which influence how we see the world etc. My situation is that I can't do anything atm, but this should clear up this fall and I can seriously start working on the headphone. So I am currently spending some time with Kevin Glimore's amplifiers (Dynalo / Dynahi) so I can build a class A amplifier, alongside (hopefully) collect a THX/AAA/789 as well as the Atom.
Now for a question I've been wondering about for a while: You mentioned doing a 2 driver per side version of the Fostex RP. Is this on a planing stage or have you already tested the principle and have an idea of its performance ???
- Oneminde
You made several comments which I am not going to argue about / against, but I largely agree on stuff that is considered general or apply on a large portion of the population. We have a personal history which influence how we see the world etc. My situation is that I can't do anything atm, but this should clear up this fall and I can seriously start working on the headphone. So I am currently spending some time with Kevin Glimore's amplifiers (Dynalo / Dynahi) so I can build a class A amplifier, alongside (hopefully) collect a THX/AAA/789 as well as the Atom.
Now for a question I've been wondering about for a while: You mentioned doing a 2 driver per side version of the Fostex RP. Is this on a planing stage or have you already tested the principle and have an idea of its performance ???
- Oneminde
Just received these; a little lacking in sub-bass, slightly hot in the treble, but imaging is superb. After a few hours, treble seemed more subdued - do these actually burn in? and if so, how long would it take?
I'd give them a solid day of moderate/loud music to loosen up, especially the Tx0 as they are extremely up-tight upon unboxing, you'll know when they've loosen up a bit!
Congrats @kalibur, they look beautiful!
Congrats @kalibur, they look beautiful!
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Anyone tried ZMF oval cowhide pads on these yet? Hoping to increase the sub-bass and reduce the treble a notch.
artnoi
100+ Head-Fier
Just got myself a pair of T60RP in Hong Kong (HK$2380, non-VAT-refundable).
Was aiming at AKG K550 MK3 or Senn HD4.40 as cheap souvenir to myself, but ended up getting these wooden bad boyz instead lol. FYI I was heartbroken by the HE4xx, so I wanted to try other planar headphones.
At the time of purchase I lacked proper amplification (I only brought ust a 8-9 year old iPhone 4 that I use as my IEM player), but their (T60RP) sound rendered me unable to leave them unpurchased. They got loud with iPhone 4, but not loud enough, yet they outperformed both of the earlier-mentioned headphones by very big margin (K550Mk3 was a better choice of the two by the way).
I knew they’re gonna be a lot more awesome with my O2 amp, but now wonder if I need more powerful amplifier like the JDS Atom.
PS. My desktop setup is currently completely unbalanced (Topping D10+O2) so I did not buy the extra Fostex balanced cable.
edited: wording
Was aiming at AKG K550 MK3 or Senn HD4.40 as cheap souvenir to myself, but ended up getting these wooden bad boyz instead lol. FYI I was heartbroken by the HE4xx, so I wanted to try other planar headphones.
At the time of purchase I lacked proper amplification (I only brought ust a 8-9 year old iPhone 4 that I use as my IEM player), but their (T60RP) sound rendered me unable to leave them unpurchased. They got loud with iPhone 4, but not loud enough, yet they outperformed both of the earlier-mentioned headphones by very big margin (K550Mk3 was a better choice of the two by the way).
I knew they’re gonna be a lot more awesome with my O2 amp, but now wonder if I need more powerful amplifier like the JDS Atom.
PS. My desktop setup is currently completely unbalanced (Topping D10+O2) so I did not buy the extra Fostex balanced cable.
edited: wording
raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
If you already have the O2, then keep it this way. If you want more power, then indeed Atom is the way to go; best value for the sound.
O2 should drive T60RP to loud levels.
O2 should drive T60RP to loud levels.
kintsaki
500+ Head-Fier
@kintsaki. It's Not How Smart You Are, It's How You're Smart!. I've met people who have 130+ in IQ and while they are more intelligent than me, they are not smarter, and I have met people who have less IQ than me but show evidence of sometimes making smarter decision. So while I have a higher IQ score than you, I would not worry If I where you. In the end, it is how you use your knowledge and how you solve problems that matter. Also, people with high IQ typically experience less joy than someone who has an average IQ (90-110) because they overthink things, and a persons IQ is like a muscle, it can be trained and grow
You made several comments which I am not going to argue about / against, but I largely agree on stuff that is considered general or apply on a large portion of the population. We have a personal history which influence how we see the world etc. My situation is that I can't do anything atm, but this should clear up this fall and I can seriously start working on the headphone. So I am currently spending some time with Kevin Glimore's amplifiers (Dynalo / Dynahi) so I can build a class A amplifier, alongside (hopefully) collect a THX/AAA/789 as well as the Atom.
Now for a question I've been wondering about for a while: You mentioned doing a 2 driver per side version of the Fostex RP. Is this on a planing stage or have you already tested the principle and have an idea of its performance ???
- Oneminde
I am in the planning phase. I just started using Blender to draw a 3D sketch of what I am up to which is really crazy.
as soon as I have something readable I will post it.
I did put 2 drivers in the Smeggy+M1060 outer wooden ring case I made which is twice as large that of the T60
and it does make a significant difference so now I am working on a set that will be supported by the shoulders
instead of the head and will feature accordion style variable length return ducts for each driver along with a
thicker baffle that would allow me or a non technical user (such as musician for example) to be able to fine tune
it by varying the paths and the blocking of each driver with no tools.
Your idea on the driver diaphragm is interesting. See if you can use it to improve the speed of the driver to get it more refined.
In a few weeks I will receive my Verum 1 where a variation of your idea is used but on a large diaphragm and see how that sounds.
Planar phones whether Ortho or E-stat are hard to drive, Kevin has been working on that for years, so what you are doing there is good,
I just am not up to speed on that due to other priorities. For the time being I get by by chaining 3 progressively more powerful amps.
We do not disagree on general philosophy, we phrase it differently.
ff you have something you disagree with come out and say it, no matter how bad it may sound.
Now let me ask you a couple of questions
why your user id is Oneminde and not Onemindednot? or 1mindedno?
and which country are you located in now?
EDIT
to all members
I did talk to Mr.Tyler of Mayflower Electronics and he told me that his wife designs and makes the V1 and V3 mods and that she doesn't fill most of the cavity of the T50 RP V3 with fiberglass, she only uses a relatively thin layer of fiberglass. I will send her my 3D diagram when ready to get her opinion and ask her if she is interested in helping me to build it or if she wants to produce a kit for people to use with their tx0 RP's...
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Oneminde
New Head-Fier
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Two things here. 1) It looks like to me that Fostex is alone (?) in using Kapton as the membrane material 2) The electrode portion also have a much finer pattern than most. This is why when I eventually do try and make my own, I first want to test using the Fostex RP material and pattern. If that is a key or not to the performance, I have no idea, but should be doable.
Oneminde came about when I years ago chose a login name in a forum group and misspelled it. It should have been Onemind as One Mind > alone. I did not bother changing it and so Oneminde it was
and I come from and live in Sweden. Spend most of my time working on loudspeakers and headphones is another version of that which also interest me.Regarding design, I would actually recommend Fusion360 (CAD) instead of Blender. Yes you can design things in Blender, but its not optimized for production of the things you design. I use the start up license Autodesk provide users with who run a business that earn less than $100K a year. Also, much better and more intuitive than Solidwork.
No rush on your design, take your time and when you are ready, present your findings - looking forward.
- Oneminde
artnoi
100+ Head-Fier
So finally got back home to my desktop setup. After 2 days of adapting my ear to the sound of the headphones, I still find them a bit hot in treble, that I don't use them for metal. The peak is at maybe at 9-10kHz? (I saw it from measurement posted somewhere in this thread, but not sure about the number, just guessed here)
Imaging is good, maybe because of a dip in certain frequency band to create the so called room effect (I find some instrument's presence much less than with other headphones say HD600 DT880 K7XX). Overall I'm very impressed with width and depth.
edited: bass feels a bit different than what I'm used to
But anyway I wonder if the benefits of EQing (with software) down the treble will outweigh its drawbacks i.e. signal degradation or phase problems etc.
I tried to EQ 10kHz band to -2dB and I think I like that sound better, i.e. they don't bite anymore. But since I'm not golden ear either or possess the knowledge about this so I'm really not. sure what to do right now
Should Ispend money on new pads, or use built-in EQ in my music player app (Decibel for OSX)
Imaging is good, maybe because of a dip in certain frequency band to create the so called room effect (I find some instrument's presence much less than with other headphones say HD600 DT880 K7XX). Overall I'm very impressed with width and depth.
edited: bass feels a bit different than what I'm used to
But anyway I wonder if the benefits of EQing (with software) down the treble will outweigh its drawbacks i.e. signal degradation or phase problems etc.
I tried to EQ 10kHz band to -2dB and I think I like that sound better, i.e. they don't bite anymore. But since I'm not golden ear either or possess the knowledge about this so I'm really not. sure what to do right now
Should Ispend money on new pads, or use built-in EQ in my music player app (Decibel for OSX)
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