[fleasbaby]

  These are for me right Bruce??   ♫

 
LOL...no...hehehehehe

 

[peter123]

These are for me right Bruce??   ♫

They're mine Charlie, muahahaha!

JK......

 

[Charliemotta]

 

These are for me right Bruce??   ♫

They're mine Charlie, muahahaha!

JK......

We can have a race to Bruce's house.  I'll give you good directions!   

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  Hi All,
 
Just finished some Wenge cups and baffles, and thought I would share process pictures in the interests of community knowledge. This stuff was done in my extremely messy garage with a benchtop lathe and an assortment of other tools (nothing crazy...chisels, drill press, Skil-Saw mounted on a little worktable that acts as a table-saw, sandpaper, and light cursing).
 
My next pair will have baffles made with UHMWC.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Beautiful craftsmanship!

 

[fleasbaby]

  Beautiful craftsmanship!

Thanks Keith

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

Hi All,

Just finished some Wenge cups and baffles, and thought I would share process pictures in the interests of community knowledge. This stuff was done in my extremely messy garage with a benchtop lathe and an assortment of other tools (nothing crazy...chisels, drill press, Skil-Saw mounted on a little worktable that acts as a table-saw, sandpaper, and light cursing).

My next pair will have baffles made with UHMWC.

I love the colour of those. Those are awesome. I can't wait to see them finished

 

[fleasbaby]

I love the colour of those. Those are awesome. I can't wait to see them finished

 
Finished the build on them this morning:
 

 
The way I tune the bass is to not make a bass port, but when I glue the baffles to the cups (no screws and foam...not as effective at sealing up as hot glue) leave uniform gaps (my usual pattern is to make two brackets around the driver, like so: (0)). Other folks have used my cups with different porting to reportedly good effect. More bass, less bass, etc, etc...At the moment these are held together with modeling clay. The gent getting them will tune them himself and do the final hot glue.
 
Powered by a FiiO E12, these were a great reminder for me of why I love the T50rp driver in a good enclosure. Raunchy bass, great detail...flat, black background.

 

[fleasbaby]

...a side note...the wires now used in the T50rp MKIII are terrible. Hair-thin, to the point that I didn't want to do my usual trick of simply cutting, stripping and joining them to my cable. Not only that...the left side's wires appeared to be a margin more beefy than the right side's?!? Wierd inconsistency...
 
I wasn't excited at the prospect, but I sucked it up, put on my big boy pants, and desoldered the stock cables completely from that schiitty little circuit board that isn't even properly attached to the plastic driver frame, and soldered my cable direct to the board. It worked, but I wasn't too excited by it. 

 

[MF Kitten]

I just finished modding my new cans: DT990 Premium with Fostex T50RP drivers in them! I made a separate thread for it in the DIY area, but here's how they measure:

I think it looks a lot better than the cans they used to be:
http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=2241&scale=30

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I just finished modding my new cans: DT990 Premium with Fostex T50RP drivers in them! I made a separate thread for it in the DIY area, but here's how they measure:

I think it looks a lot better than the cans they used to be:
http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=2241&scale=30

 
Looks great! Congrats.
 
I'd love to see some pics of your transplant.
 
Beyer driver wires a ultra tiny and very fragile.

 

[MF Kitten]

Thanks!

I've started doing some further modding on them now though. Refining the dampening behind the driver, and getting some amazing results when doing so! Reading about the old yamaha orthodynamic headphones and how they worked made me realize how dampening affects the frequency response. If you can get something that is mostly "transparent" tonally, but at the same time has some good air resistance, you can get some really improved smoothness across the frequency spectrum. Removing all the crap I had going on, and literally just layering on piles of felt squares onthe back of the driver made a significant improvement, and I ended up being able to remove the thick foam pad I had in the cup. Excellent!

 

[Turhuuksia]

Never mind this post. (delete please)

 

[Primus2112]

Mark3's improving soundstage help.

Hi all, How can I tweak the T50rp M3 to get a bit more soundstage?

I am sure it varies....
Would adding some foam strips or cotton balls to the inside back of the cups help? 
Thanks for any help!

 

[rigodeni]

Hey guys I got myself a T40RP MK3 on sale at my local AV place. I have a gift card I plan to use for some replacement ear pads but not sure which to get. I was wondering if anyone can confirm if any of these would fit or not.
 
Beyerdynamic EDT 770 S
Beyerdynamic EDT 990 VB
Audio Technica HP-EP M-Series
Shure HPAEC440
Shure HPAEC840
Shure HPAEC240
 
I know there are plenty of other options, maybe better than these but those are my only options. Any comments on which you suggest would be appreciated.
 
Thanks!

 

[Primus2112]

Finished the build on them this morning:




The way I tune the bass is to not make a bass port, but when I glue the baffles to the cups (no screws and foam...not as effective at sealing up as hot glue) leave uniform gaps (my usual pattern is to make two brackets around the driver, like so: (0)). Other folks have used my cups with different porting to reportedly good effect. More bass, less bass, etc, etc...At the moment these are held together with modeling clay. The gent getting them will tune them himself and do the final hot glue.

Powered by a FiiO E12, these were a great reminder for me of why I love the T50rp driver in a good enclosure. Raunchy bass, great detail...flat, black background.

Nice! Question.. for a stock Mk 3,... How can I improve the soindstage??? More foam inside cups? Thanks!