[edges7z]

   
Are you sure about the screw? Do you need the Front Hanger Holder Ref No. 8... or Connector B Ref No 5?
 
The Front Hanger Holder Ref No. 8 needs the screw with Ref No. 20.
 
The Screw with Ref No. 21 secures Connector B, Ref No. 5.
 

I don't know how I let that slip! haha, I meant the Connector B piece, which that line coming off of it lines up with the screw part #21.
THAT'S what I need

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I don't know how I let that slip! haha, I meant the Connector B piece, which that line coming off of it lines up with the screw part #21.
THAT'S what I need

OK. I have what you need. PM me.

 

[Pars]

  My humble opinion:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements#user_nick_n_Memory_Foam_Modification_November_2013
http://www.head-fi.org/t/729146/the-nickerfied-fostex-t50rp-impressions-and-mod-thread
 
But with driver variations being what they are, I wouldn't recommend this mod if the treble is already quite strong in stock form.

Thanks. I'll take a look at that more when I take inventory of what has been done to these so far. Both pairs I have use the Shure 840 pads. From what my brother told me, the mods to these are basically a slight variant of Mr. Speakers RP2 with 840 pads mod. Both sound slightly different; the pair I use I rewired using a 4-pin mini XLR to balanced, and use cables made of Mogami to 4-pin XLR. I currently run these using an ss dynalo balanced, so I have enough power. The treble in these is not strong, so I'll decide what of the current mods to reverse or modify. I believe that the stock white paper covering the drivers has been removed on both pairs.

 

[rikk009]

Ok. What exactly will elevate the frequency around 3-5k a bit more? 

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

 
 
My god. That took a very long time to deal with to get these Alpha pads on.
 
First thoughts; MUCH bigger soundstage (probably due to more sound leakage as well) , low bass has been brought up quite a bit, mid-bass seems to be the same, some how brought details forward. Perhaps its a few treble spikes or such. Very echo-y atm, waiting on my open alphas to be printed, the actoustic foam on the ear side, and finally throwing my own wave guides on should help once its there.
 
They are significantly more revealing. I really didn't expect that. Bad production and file quality shines as well as a rusty mirror.
 
 
EDIT: My headphones used to drop off at around 55-60 hrtz or so, I could still hear it that low, but started dipping, now it seems pretty level all the way down to 30. But there is definitely some echos in the highs as well. Which makes since give the more space. But they really do show how imbalanced my cans are left to right. VERY distracting. Just got word my Alphas are totally done, Just waiting until I have time to pick them up. So Ill be reworking the mods very soon. Hopefully that fixes the imbalance. Worst case, its somehow the drivers
 
After 20 mins of listening, my ears are ROASTING.

 

[rikk009]

The echo is most probably due to treble reflectors. 

 

[axtran]

Easiest way to put the pads on is to flip them inside out, and then compress and flip them so that they wrap the cups. Totally helped with putting some 1540 pads onto my Vibro's.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

  The echo is most probably due to treble reflectors. 

 
I have my mods specifically set to minimize treble. Im assuming its reflections on the ear side from the pad itself. I went from the drivers pressed up directly to my ears, to small caverns lol.... Im getting my alphas tomorrow, Im assuming silverstone foam on the ear side will help hugely.

  Easiest way to put the pads on is to flip them inside out, and then compress and flip them so that they wrap the cups. Totally helped with putting some 1540 pads onto my Vibro's.

 
 
I tried that, but what actually goes around the cup was too small out of the box, luckily real leather can stretch rather nicely, with not much worry of tearing like pleather. I stopped at my mom's house and picked up some leather shoe stretch as well which helped. Just a long slow process of pulling on the leather until it was just big enough to yank over the cup. I was careful not to over stretch just in case the Alphas are slightly smaller
 
 
 
Brought them on my roadtrip Im on now (over my MDR-10s or Momentum over-ears), hoping to get a feel for how the pads sound so I can better judge the Open alphas. Buuuut, I forgot my 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter at home. So now Im stuck with no cans at all. The horror. 

 

[axtran]

   
I have my mods specifically set to minimize treble. Im assuming its reflections on the ear side from the pad itself. I went from the drivers pressed up directly to my ears, to small caverns lol.... Im getting my alphas tomorrow, Im assuming silverstone foam on the ear side will help hugely.
 
 
I tried that, but what actually goes around the cup was too small out of the box, luckily real leather can stretch rather nicely, with not much worry of tearing like pleather. I stopped at my mom's house and picked up some leather shoe stretch as well which helped. Just a long slow process of pulling on the leather until it was just big enough to yank over the cup. I was careful not to over stretch just in case the Alphas are slightly smaller
 
 
 
Brought them on my roadtrip Im on now (over my MDR-10s or Momentum over-ears), hoping to get a feel for how the pads sound so I can better judge the Open alphas. Buuuut, I forgot my 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter at home. So now Im stuck with no cans at all. The horror. 

Same experience I had with Alpha pads going onto these Vibro's before I put on the 1540's.

You'll also want to try ZMF pads. They're more comfortable, IMO (the Lambskin ones).

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

We'll finally had the guts to install my own mod. The wave guides.

Hard to say becuase I installed them while doing open alphas, but sound stage is a bit bigger, but the positioning is vastly improved. All the sibilance issues I was having is gone as well. Doubt that was from the guides though

They are bass light right now, I haven't retuned them for the new cups, they are absolute mid monsters atm

 

[MarcusHe]

I've hit a problem while doing a few mods, I've managed to rip the negative wire on the right cup out of where it was soldered. Is this fixable for someone with very limited soldering experience? If so could someone explain how I should proceed? I have backup headphones so it is not a huge problem if it doesn't work, I should really learn how to solder properly anyway.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I've hit a problem while doing a few mods, I've managed to rip the negative wire on the right cup out of where it was soldered. Is this fixable for someone with very limited soldering experience? If so could someone explain how I should proceed? I have backup headphones so it is not a huge problem if it doesn't work, I should really learn how to solder properly anyway.

post a close up picture.

If it's ripped off, a repair will be difficult.

I've replaced several for guys who did the same thing. I have one driver diaphragm left.

 

[MarcusHe]

I'll post pics as soon as my phone is charged.
 
 
 
The left wire in the photo looks like it detached from the solder, there looks to be a tiny hole in the solder where the wire used to be.  Would simply reheating the solder and placing the wire back in be enough, or does it have to be in direct contact with the diaphragm? The wire doesn't actually looked damaged at all.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I'll post pics as soon as my phone is charged.


 

The left wire in the photo looks like it detached from the solder, there looks to be a tiny hole in the solder where the wire used to be.  Would simply reheating the solder and placing the wire back in be enough, or does it have to be in direct contact with the diaphragm? The wire doesn't actually looked damaged at all.

I can't tell which one is detached. Is it the top driver, red wire?

In any case, if the solder pad is not torn off it's an easy fix if you know how to solder. Apply liquid flux to the solder pad and the detached wire. Place the wire on top of the pad and hold it down with a plastic spudge or mini screwdriver so it maintains contact when you apply heat from your soldering iron. Make sure you first tin, clean off the tin on a moist sponge or preferably brass wool, and repeat until the iron tip is shiny. I'd set the temperature of the iron at about 600F. Touch the soldering iron tip to the diaphragm solder pad and the wire at the same time. This will allow rapidly reflowing the solder pad to the solder on the wire...assuming you've already re-tinned the wire. You should be able to reflow within 2 seconds of soldering iron contact. I recommend using a 0.5 mm conical tip. Any longer than 2 seconds risks destroying the solder pad and melting it right off the diaphragm. Remove the iron but keep light pressure on the wire-to-solder pad junction for a couple of seconds until the solder solidifies. If it doesn't work, let the solder pad cool and repeat all the previous steps.

If you don't know how to solder, find someone who does. Keep in mind, though, that there will be risk involved...even with proper equipment and technique.

 

[MarcusHe]

This is what the real problem looks like, sorry about the crappy pictures.




Thank you for the advice, I think ill practise soldering a bit before I try fixing the headphones.