[DatGameh]

Sorry guys, if you guys don't mind, may I ask some questions regarding modding?
I don't really know another place where people are responsive, so I assume that this is probably the best place to ask these questions.
I started a thread for a while, and no one has answered... So I'll just copy the message, if I may.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Some time next month, I am planning to go to Japan to get myself a T50RP (along with other things, of course).
I plan to take apart these headphones, and begin by adding a suspension headband made out of one of my broken belts.
But when it comes to the stuff inside, I have a few questions to ask:
 
1. Does rebond foam work well as an alternative?
 
This foam seems to be quite dense, and I think this should be adequate enough to be used in my headphone. I'm going to use a hot wire foam cutter to cut the foam, and I think that this can allow flexibility in increasing or decreasing the thickness of the foam. But, since it's rebond foam, how greatly will that impact the sound quality compared to the thin, black sound dampening foams? Since these are basically random foams put together, it may absorb more noise in one spot than the other. I'm just wondering if it may cause audio randomness in small places, like a small echo in a corner or something.
 
2. As long as I give enough breathing space for the vent, there isn't such thing as too much sound dampening foam, is there?
 
Rebond foam is quite thick, and this can allow me to cut it to any thickness. Maybe even covering the whole earcup! But, I don't know if this may be beneficial though. Too much isn't good either, right?
 
2. Any form of plasticine will work, right?
 
I'm not sure if there are multiple types of plasticine or not, but I usually find plasticine for kids, or just some generic, non-branded plasticine in where I live. The plasticine doesn't really have that many differences in ingredients, that can affect my headphones, right? Especially if there are oils of some sort...
 
3. Why do some people made dimples in their plasticine?
 
I don't really see the benefit of doing it. Its like comparing a solid tube to a hollow tube. They do pretty much just as well as each other when it comes to being pressed, but at the end, the hollow one always collapses first. What I mean by this is that these dimples look like weak points, where the energy is basically stuck/the vibrations aren't absorbed efficiently.
 
4. Are Shure HPAEC1840 Earpads work fine, right?
 
I never owned decent headphones with replacable earpads, so I'm quite confused as to why many people are fighting over the kinds of earpads. I heard from Z (Z Reviews) that thin pads are best used, since the drivers work best when the ears are close to the driver. I also heard that the earpads can also affect the sound quality in ways I am not familiar with. After some research, I found the Shure HPAEC1840 to be good pads, because of its comfort and softness. But, how much will it affect the sound quality? Could it dampen the treble or something?
 
5. What are good alternatives to the V-Moda cables?
 
Japan doesn't sell V-Moda products, so I can't find the cables. Are there any not-expensive angled cables that work, or will anything I find work just as well?

 

[nick n]

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 1. Does rebond foam work well as an alternative?
 
This foam seems to be quite dense, and I think this should be adequate enough to be used in my headphone. I'm going to use a hot wire foam cutter to cut the foam, and I think that this can allow flexibility in increasing or decreasing the thickness of the foam. But, since it's rebond foam, how greatly will that impact the sound quality compared to the thin, black sound dampening foams? Since these are basically random foams put together, it may absorb more noise in one spot than the other. I'm just wondering if it may cause audio randomness in small places, like a small echo in a corner or something.
 
 I looked at Rebond foam at The Foam Factory  link that came up and it is not in the Acosutical Foams category at all.  Some foams do very little, and the foams used inside these are usually adhesive backed thin foams used specifically for noise control inside computers etc  ( Acoustipack, Paxmate and other re/brands ). These have very specific acoustical properties.
 Nothing says another foam won't work, personally I'd give it a shot and see what you think.
 Anything that will help absorb cup resonances flying around in there can help, but not always to the same degree and not always in a good way.  I'm not familiar with anyone yet trying that particular type. 
Why not .
And let people know how it works.
I doubt a small variation will change anything from side to side with what you mentioned there it seems like pretty random stuff from pictures.
That's how so much of this started there's no real black and white concrete plan for these. Some of the best results at the beginning started out from random things, it's just some people might not want to mess around too much , and go for previously proven. Doesn't mean it is the best really.
 
2. As long as I give enough breathing space for the vent, there isn't such thing as too much sound dampening foam, is there?
 
Rebond foam is quite thick, and this can allow me to cut it to any thickness. Maybe even covering the whole earcup! But, I don't know if this may be beneficial though. Too much isn't good either, right?
 
You can try completely filling the shell, many folks do close to that with massive slabs of Rockwool.
If it is too much you will be able to tell I think by an increasingly deader sound and the increased difficulty to drive them. Loads of damping can often really lower their sensitivity so it can take a lot more volume and power to run them to adequate levels if this happens ( and/or could ruin the sound  ).
 You'll know when you hear it what sort of amounts to try and since it is as yet an unknown material you'll have to do some trial and error. I'd suggest going to one extreme  then seeing what that does as a baseline for the sound, then you can tell how much if any you need to decrease it. Best to go to the extreme first I think anyhow. Otherwise you might end up doing tons of tiny less noticeable mods to get to that extreme...
 
2. Any form of plasticine will work, right?
 
I'm not sure if there are multiple types of plasticine or not, but I usually find plasticine for kids, or just some generic, non-branded plasticine in where I live. The plasticine doesn't really have that many differences in ingredients, that can affect my headphones, right? Especially if there are oils of some sort...
 
Newplast for sure is fine, but you are right yes many plasticines have an oil base and that is not good for the plastic over time.
Also stuff like grey non hardening window putty offgasses and can corrode exposed copper.
So Newplast for sure is OK i forget the other alternatives in here.
 
If you want to avoid plasticine you can try out some Sorbothane which is rather cheap considering  the amount you would use. there are various densities and thicknesses. I have another T50 here I am trialing some poly pumice coating inside the rears but might swap  the plasticine option on the driver rear baffle for a denser Sorbothane ( YESI WILL ACTUALLY SORB IS TOO GGOD ). It can have excellent effects  much better than Dynamat IMHO.
 Less dense  is the 30D ( "D" stands for Duro rating = basically it's density and how it vibrates , which changes the vibrations into heat and deals with  vibes basically.) 70 D might be fun to try as it is heavier  and might combine both the mass loading AND the vibration control while also adding it's special something to the sound.
 
 
 
3. Why do some people made dimples in their plasticine?
 
I don't really see the benefit of doing it. Its like comparing a solid tube to a hollow tube. They do pretty much just as well as each other when it comes to being pressed, but at the end, the hollow one always collapses first. What I mean by this is that these dimples look like weak points, where the energy is basically stuck/the vibrations aren't absorbed efficiently.
 
This may or may not be necessary. the thinking is that any extra stuff that helps scatter the sound around is better , rather than it hitting a flat surface and reflecting en masse.
Some people also add a top layer of adhesive foams  or adhesive felts on top  of the plasticine so really it may or may not be worth it.
 
4. Are Shure HPAEC1840 Earpads work fine, right?
 
I never owned decent headphones with replacable earpads, so I'm quite confused as to why many people are fighting over the kinds of earpads. I heard from Z (Z Reviews) that thin pads are best used, since the drivers work best when the ears are close to the driver. I also heard that the earpads can also affect the sound quality in ways I am not familiar with. After some research, I found the Shure HPAEC1840 to be good pads, because of its comfort and softness. But, how much will it affect the sound quality? Could it dampen the treble or something?
 
I do agree about not liking the Shure 840 pads myself. I fought and fought with them  forever with a mod,  but ultimately the larger opening and height  was determined to be causing the top end to be a bit  much, so I searched forever and found a set of pads that not only are cheap, but are in between the Shure and Stock pad heights, while keeping the same inner opening dimensions as stock, which is IMPORTANT .
So whammo!!! bass  is back honestly beyond expectations from a  simple pad swap ( with this mod ) and really good again, and no more treble issues from the shure pads.
 That's for sure what I found, but if someone has a warmer mod they might enjoy the shure pads...
There are a few sellers of them , this is what they are ( I need to order a stack more for other things also )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Replacement-Ear-Pads-Cushions-for-SHURE-SRH840-SRH440-SRH940-Headphones-/331924504782?hash=item4d483e00ce:g:XNoAAOSwajVUPejY
You will need to slightly stretch them on they will fit, and also I used some double sided fabric tape in about 6 -8 spots to hold the flaps to the cup outside that way they can be removed, but stay put . That is also in POST #1  here
 
5. What are good alternatives to the V-Moda cables?
 
Japan doesn't sell V-Moda products, so I can't find the cables. Are there any not-expensive angled cables that work, or will anything I find work just as well?
 If you can't order directly from VModa ( I do to Canada here , love the silicone IEM tips...) then there are a couple great modders in here that could possibly make you one up. 
They would know also what jacks will do well in the stock female jack, since the Vmoda are mainly used because the barrel of the tip is slightly more snug in there vs others as you may know.
I know some of the smaller right angled Neutrik I buy tend to be a little looser than others for example, so can't recommend those.
If you can find some small packages of the Caig DeOxit wipes try to use those from time to time, better yet buy a can of it for everything.
PETEREK member in here ( http://www.head-fi.org/u/348881/peterek ) comes immediately to mind for cable stuff on these he would know and seems to do dependable, solid, quality work.
Bet he could figure something really nice according to your exact needs for you.
 
*** one important thing  the screw posts inside can become stripped if forced over the course of repeated opening and closing during mod trials, best thing I found was to use a ratcheting screwdriver set to reverse, so that when you screw down and it starts to encounter resistance it will spin out so you know then to do a slight snug hand tighten at that spot .
Rather than directly screwing down all the time  you can misjudge, overtighten, and possibly strip the screwposts inside, and then you'll need to consult the first thread about repairing those.
 
Anyone else got any immediate advice?

 

[goh2499]

Are you modifying mkii(old model still available) or mkiii. This can effect pad selection. Mkiii seems to be more sensitive to different thickness of pads from what I have read.

I am working with mkii

I used A plasticine modeling clay non drying from Wal-Mart called EZ-Shape and have read not to use any modeling clay that says oven dry as they can eat away the baffle.

Myself I did not use any acoustic foam and just filled cups with some poly batting,used for quilts, that I had available to me and placed felt in front of the drivers and used Shure 840 pads, dont like the fit will try some brainwaves angled instead

Fostex now has a shorter cable that is 3.5 at both ends that can be purchased separately or comes with mkiii

 

[DatGameh]

Well, just to clear things up, I do not live in the USA.
Almost the other side actually. Near the equator.
So stuff from Walmart, or from this website will be near impossible to get my hands on.
That includes stuff like Dynamat and Sorbothane.
 
I need something common. Like rebond foam. Almost-as-good alternatives.
Also, I plan to get the mk3. I think that's the only one sold today, haha.
 
Alright. Thanks for your response, @nick n.
Although, I have a response to reply.
 
1. So, rebond foam will work just fine, huh?
That's good to hear. But what should I expect with the different types of foam?
 
2. Well, I'll try to counter this effect by making the foam shaped concave. This way, there will be adequate space for the air to flow freely. Do you think this might help? I'm planning to keep the vent the way it is, by the way. I think it's alright the way it is.
(I wrote two twice, so the next one is going to skip the third one. I already understand your statement there.)
 
4. I see. Well, I think the better the support on the buffer, the better. I think I'll just leave it for now.
By the way, the Plasticine... How thick should it be? I see people simply go up to the wall of the molding "chambers".
I see some go more than that. I kind of want to make an inclined wall that surrounds the driver a little, but I think that's overdoing it.
 
5. These earpads don't look legit at all... They aren't really made by Shure, aren't they?
Also, I was talking about the Shure 1840. Not the lower end 840. It uses leatherette earpads, while the 1840 uses velour.
But, I heard that the velour earpads will only intensify the treble even more
But... I think I'll skip the EBay link. Sorry, but as I said, I don't live in the US.
Well, I'm looking at the earpads of the same price, though...
How about I use the Shure 840 earpads, and put cotton/tissue on the driver to reduce the treble, like what you suggest, @goh2499? I will use an AMP to accompany this solution, of course. It's generally harder to hear the farther it is from my ear, right?
 
6. His products are actually very interesting. But I'm afraid I can't have access to that...
Now that I think of it, is the only reason people don't like the cable is because its springy? Or does it break easily?
 
Well, thanks again for your response, and also yours, @goh2499. 
I'm looking forward to getting these headphones and trying them out.
 
P.S.
 
Just to avoid confusion, I just want to point something out: I'm very new in the audio world.
I'm pretty much an amateur in audio. I wish for these headphones to be my intro to the world of being an audiophile, heheh.
So I might need a small explanation of what to expect. Like a slight reduction in treble using *this* material instead of *that*. I already understand the meaning of a majority of statements, so no need to struggle speaking in Layman's term.
Thanks, again

 

[nick n]

  Well, just to clear things up, I do not live in the USA.
Almost the other side actually. Near the equator.
So stuff from Walmart, or from this website will be near impossible to get my hands on.
That includes stuff like Dynamat and Sorbothane.
 
I need something common. Like rebond foam. Almost-as-good alternatives.
Also, I plan to get the mk3. I think that's the only one sold today, haha.
 
Alright. Thanks for your response, @nick n.
Although, I have a response to reply.
 
1. So, rebond foam will work just fine, huh?
That's good to hear. But what should I expect with the different types of foam?
 
2. Well, I'll try to counter this effect by making the foam shaped concave. This way, there will be adequate space for the air to flow freely. Do you think this might help? I'm planning to keep the vent the way it is, by the way. I think it's alright the way it is.
(I wrote two twice, so the next one is going to skip the third one. I already understand your statement there.)
 
4. I see. Well, I think the better the support on the buffer, the better. I think I'll just leave it for now.
By the way, the Plasticine... How thick should it be? I see people simply go up to the wall of the molding "chambers".
I see some go more than that. I kind of want to make an inclined wall that surrounds the driver a little, but I think that's overdoing it.
 
5. These earpads don't look legit at all... They aren't really made by Shure, aren't they?
Also, I was talking about the Shure 1840. Not the lower end 840. It uses leatherette earpads, while the 1840 uses velour.
But, I heard that the velour earpads will only intensify the treble even more
But... I think I'll skip the EBay link. Sorry, but as I said, I don't live in the US.
Well, I'm looking at the earpads of the same price, though...
How about I use the Shure 840 earpads, and put cotton/tissue on the driver to reduce the treble, like what you suggest, @goh2499? I will use an AMP to accompany this solution, of course. It's generally harder to hear the farther it is from my ear, right?
 
6. His products are actually very interesting. But I'm afraid I can't have access to that...
Now that I think of it, is the only reason people don't like the cable is because its springy? Or does it break easily?
 
Well, thanks again for your response, and also yours, @goh2499. 
I'm looking forward to getting these headphones and trying them out.
 
P.S.
 
Just to avoid confusion, I just want to point something out: I'm very new in the audio world.
I'm pretty much an amateur in audio. I wish for these headphones to be my intro to the world of being an audiophile, heheh.
So I might need a small explanation of what to expect. Like a slight reduction in treble using *this* material instead of *that*. I already understand the meaning of a majority of statements, so no need to struggle speaking in Layman's term.
Thanks, again

Everyone starts out "amateur" but fresh thinking can also be a good thing. Nothing to worry about there!
 
I only mod the MK2 so the MK3 does share some aspects, but is a different approach with a lot of it due to internal ventings.
 
I have no idea whatsoever if that Rebond foam will work all I am saying is why not try it and let us know I don't remember anyone else trying it yet. Maybe they have and posted it as "Carpet Underlay" or something.
 
Plasticine  you can do whatever you want, I don't think there would be much difference  between adding it to the top of the chambers or higher up.
It's all about mass loading  there.
 
Legit pads well no they are meant for whatever, I use them for a few different things. If you do find issues with the Shure's whatever you use due to larger opening/height and  tizzy trebles, keeping your ears closer to the driver usually adds better low end.
I just got more than favourable results  with those and they are a bit taller than stock so a bit more comfortable.
 
The Shure 840 pads already have a layer of earside foam built into  them that might be enough, or can easily be cut out  to be replaced as needed.
 
if you mean why don't people use the stock Fostex cable? IF so it is because it did not fit tight enough ( at least on the MK2 ) and over time due to movement or loosening or slight corrosion ( all plugs get a bit of corrosion/dirty ) it would result on poor sound or periodic dropouts of sound.
If you keep it clean it should or may be just be fine.
 
Stacked layers of cotton gauze might also be easy to try on the front of the driver.
 
Make sure to live with them in stock form for a bit  and learn what they are like inside and out , you may find you do not need to do excessive mods.

 

[walbum4262]

Well, just to clear things up, I do not live in the USA.
Almost the other side actually. Near the equator.
So stuff from Walmart, or from this website will be near impossible to get my hands on.
That includes stuff like Dynamat and Sorbothane.

I need something common. Like rebond foam. Almost-as-good alternatives.
Also, I plan to get the mk3. I think that's the only one sold today, haha.

Alright. Thanks for your response, @nick n
.
Although, I have a response to reply.

1. So, rebond foam will work just fine, huh?
That's good to hear. But what should I expect with the different types of foam?

2. Well, I'll try to counter this effect by making the foam shaped concave. This way, there will be adequate space for the air to flow freely. Do you think this might help? I'm planning to keep the vent the way it is, by the way. I think it's alright the way it is.
(I wrote two twice, so the next one is going to skip the third one. I already understand your statement there.)

4. I see. Well, I think the better the support on the buffer, the better. I think I'll just leave it for now.
By the way, the Plasticine... How thick should it be? I see people simply go up to the wall of the molding "chambers".
I see some go more than that. I kind of want to make an inclined wall that surrounds the driver a little, but I think that's overdoing it.

5. These earpads don't look legit at all... They aren't really made by Shure, aren't they?
Also, I was talking about the Shure 1840. Not the lower end 840. It uses leatherette earpads, while the 1840 uses velour.
But, I heard that the velour earpads will only intensify the treble even more
But... I think I'll skip the EBay link. Sorry, but as I said, I don't live in the US.
Well, I'm looking at the earpads of the same price, though...
How about I use the Shure 840 earpads, and put cotton/tissue on the driver to reduce the treble, like what you suggest, @goh2499
? I will use an AMP to accompany this solution, of course. It's generally harder to hear the farther it is from my ear, right?

6. His products are actually very interesting. But I'm afraid I can't have access to that...
Now that I think of it, is the only reason people don't like the cable is because its springy? Or does it break easily?

Well, thanks again for your response, and also yours, @goh2499
. 
I'm looking forward to getting these headphones and trying them out.

P.S.

Just to avoid confusion, I just want to point something out: I'm very new in the audio world.
I'm pretty much an amateur in audio. I wish for these headphones to be my intro to the world of being an audiophile, heheh.
So I might need a small explanation of what to expect. Like a slight reduction in treble using *this* material instead of *that*. I already understand the meaning of a majority of statements, so no need to struggle speaking in Layman's term.
Thanks, again

Hi datgameh

Great to see another person get into modding.

I will say it like this, there is no right or wrong in modding and only your ears are the ones to decide is something sounds right it wrong.

Read the first post by BMF and learn the rules or what happens if you mod inside or outside the cups. And make that a guideline

As for materials only your imagination is the limit, try stuff out and trust your ears and report your finding here to share with others.

As for pads you would make your own, go to a red cross store or any other 2nd hand store and buy a leather jacket made of thin leather and sow your own

 

[DatGameh]

 
Everyone starts out "amateur" but fresh thinking can also be a good thing. Nothing to worry about there!
 
I only mod the MK2 so the MK3 does share some aspects, but is a different approach with a lot of it due to internal ventings.
 
I have no idea whatsoever if that Rebond foam will work all I am saying is why not try it and let us know I don't remember anyone else trying it yet. Maybe they have and posted it as "Carpet Underlay" or something.
 
Plasticine  you can do whatever you want, I don't think there would be much difference  between adding it to the top of the chambers or higher up.
It's all about mass loading  there.
 
Legit pads well no they are meant for whatever, I use them for a few different things. If you do find issues with the Shure's whatever you use due to larger opening/height and  tizzy trebles, keeping your ears closer to the driver usually adds better low end.
I just got more than favourable results  with those and they are a bit taller than stock so a bit more comfortable.
 
The Shure 840 pads already have a layer of earside foam built into  them that might be enough, or can easily be cut out  to be replaced as needed.
 
if you mean why don't people use the stock Fostex cable? IF so it is because it did not fit tight enough ( at least on the MK2 ) and over time due to movement or loosening or slight corrosion ( all plugs get a bit of corrosion/dirty ) it would result on poor sound or periodic dropouts of sound.
If you keep it clean it should or may be just be fine.
 
Stacked layers of cotton gauze might also be easy to try on the front of the driver.
 
Make sure to live with them in stock form for a bit  and learn what they are like inside and out , you may find you do not need to do excessive mods.

 
Alright, then. I guess I'll have to try them out stock for a few weeks before doing some changes.
Since I'm going to Japan by a month, I won't be here for some time before some posts.
I might post here after a few months, when I have the opportunity.
 
So, anyways, thanks for your and also @walbum4262's response! I've taken note of all of that 

So, from reading the first page, I can see that adding the Shure earpads add bass, but severity in the treble too.
But, this thread focuses on the mk2. More or less, should I expect the same results with the mk3?

 

[walbum4262]

Alright, then. I guess I'll have to try them out stock for a few weeks before doing some changes.
Since I'm going to Japan by a month, I won't be here for some time before some posts.
I might post here after a few months, when I have the opportunity.

So, anyways, thanks for your and also @walbum4262
's response! I've taken note of all of that 
So, from reading the first page, I can see that adding the Shure earpads add bass, but severity in the treble too.
But, this thread focuses on the mk2. More or less, should I expect the same results with the mk3?

If you fully close the bass ports in the mr3 version your close to the baffle of the mk2

 

[DatGameh]

If you fully close the bass ports in the mr3 version your close to the baffle of the mk2

Sorry, but what do you mean by that?
Closing the bass ports in the mk3 is equivalent to filling the baffle of the mk2?

 

[DatGameh]

Oh, and one more question guys
I remember looking through page 38 in the "Just listened to some T50RP" thread, and I saw someone post their "final" damping design.
This is a diagragm ofthe design:

Quote
"All right, combining Sachu's damping suggestion along with the notion from the ortho thread on progressive damping, I just tried my quite possibly final damping scheme. They are now bright, extremely clear, with the best bass extension I have ever heard in a headphone. Some may find this scheme a bit bright, but it would also be easy to put something in front of the driver to warm things up a little."

From what it looks like, this design is extremely similar to the mk3's damping design.
The only difference iz that the hole is in the middle, and it uses multiple types of tape (Transpore and Micropore surgical tape).

I just want to ask:
Do you think his is a mod worh doing, or is it quite indifferent compared to the current damping of the mk3?
Are there any damping mods you guys think is pretty good as well?

 

[mrspeakers]

Rear damping on the driver is very sensitive.  I wouldn't suggest removing the paper, and if you put anything adhesive ON the paper, keep in mind glue residue can stick in the pores of the paper, invisibly, and make the paper more resistive.
 
The rear paper acts as a damper for the driver, smoothing and extending the highs and bass and reducing THD.  If you do remove it, you'll simply be looking for alternate damping materials, e.g. a paper that is thinner or more porous, etc.
 
When we wanted to increase damping, an easy material to use that (in those days, materials change and YMMV) was a set of Ace hardware 3/4" square felt floor protectors for furniture legs.  Another easy shortcut would be to take some post-its and trim out what you need from the adhesive band.  The glue they use is pretty clean on removal and I don't think will clog the pores of your paper.

 

[dmillz4dayz]

Hey everyone,
 
I have been having some trouble with my T50rp mkII's left driver. I was listening to it the other day when the left side slowly faded out until I couldn't hear anything. Now it doesn't work at all. I took the headphones apart to make sure all the wires were still connected (they were) and then checked the impedance of each side. The left was only about 3ohm while the right was 60ohm. I then took the left driver apart and found two burns/blemishes(here are the pictures). Has anyone encountered this? Is it fixable? Thanks for your input.

 

[c61746961]

Wow, looks like some debris may have shorted the traces, try cleaning it up with isopropyl alcohol and measure the impedance again. Be extra careful when reassembling, the glue holding the magnet assembly together tends to lose its strength and the magnets could fly and snap against the other half of the assembly, pinning the membrane and possibly damaging it.

 

[dmillz4dayz]

I tried that and unfortunately it didn't help. In fact, I now can't get a connection between the leads. I'm guessing it's the break on the left blemish. Is there a way to bridge that gap? Maybe carefully tape it off and paint a conductive material over the break? Or would that mess with the impedance? 

 

[c61746961]

That completely surpasses my skill set, but you may have some luck with something like this.