[nick n]

I recently redid a pal's T50rp memory foam mod to tweak up the bass levels ( still stays tightish ) and added some Sorbothane around the baffle side of the driver.
 
 He had made a small comment that otherwise would have gone unnoticed were I not paying attention. He said the top end was slightly toned back a bit to better levels.
So because mine suck due to peaky drivers I revisited what I did do his and mine at the same time and added twice the amount of Sorbothane 1cm squares to mine to see what effect it would have according to his comments.
 
It allowed me to remove an entire layer of earside tuning foam ( from ebay seller Wang Yifei = Sennheiser foam tuning discs  ) I had installed there, which took it down to just the square insert over the driver and a single disc under the pads.
 Of course the added Sorbothane didn't hurt the sound
Pads fit nicer also, and this is off a cooler source ( Colorfly C3 ) to beefy portable amp even so I might be able to remove another full disc, will try that later.
 
Anyhow pics are more fun than words.
 
Latest iteration.
 Thanks again for the random comment Master W!
 
this

 
now also goes with this plus one tuning foam disc under pads, maybe removing that.
An entire extra row of Sorbothane  so 12cm squared extra now per side.

 

[kman1211]

First time posting in this thread, I've had the T50RPs for a while. I've been tinkering with my T50RP's for a while off and on for a while, finally got them to where I like them. They remind me a bit of my Audioquest Nighthawk with less mid-bass but still lots of bass impact and more present upper mids. The treble is smooth and the soundstage is massive. They do look a bit like quite ugly inside and all the modeling clay I used made them heavy, but whatever works to get them to sound right and I do find them comfortable. Getting rid of the annoying sibilance issues in the treble was the biggest challenge for me. Sadly my left driver inherently has a bit of a buzzing/rattle issue when heavy bass is playing but it doesn't bother me much.
 
No mods to headband or cable, just using Shure SRH-1540 pads and I removed the foam on the opening on the earcups.

 
A lot of modeling clay and yes that's a folded napkin over the opening.

 
More modeling clay on the baffle and some felt fabric cut into a square with some electrical tape to hold it in place.

 
I removed all the paper dampening material on the back of the driver, massively increased bass output and soundstage size, also helped with the sibilance issue. Clarity also improved and got rid of the grit and grain the sound usually has. Problem is the bass and sound was quite uncontrolled and hollow sounding with reverb issues, which is why I have so much dampening in the earcups. It's also irreversible.

 

[ZGLISZCZ]

"Sadly my left driver inherently has a bit of a buzzing/rattle issue when heavy bass is playing but it doesn't bother me much."
 
hi man! you might have some dirt on diaphragm, or you might want to be sure distortions arent recorded in the track, I was reopening driver on mine for few times until I destroyed diaphragm. Just to realise distortion was in the track but I didnt heard it on other headphones I have.

 

[nick n]

good points about the tracks./recordings plus the possible particle.
 
Since the driver has had the backing removed that may also have let something small in there.
 
Another thing there have been a few found in the past that have had issues with diaphragms being slightly bowed up from the factory and hitting/bottoming out on the magnets. Tghis bottoming out only happens on low/powerful bass which is making the diaphragm throw to it's farthest point, where it hit and bottoms out briefly.

 

[ZGLISZCZ]

might be, as naked driver moves more, but I would guess its particles on diaphragm (I was using rockwool on mine but this thing makes some sort of wool powder after a while and driver soaks it). plus those distortion in recordings... you might try to swap chanels in your player and see if it distorts in the same cup or not, but it might be that only one driver will reveal distortions in recordings but it wont be a driver failure. seriously those badboys can be really revealing and you will hear lot of dodgy things in your records. I was using k701 which I think are pretty revealing but my modded cans (custom wooden enclosure an basically everything beside drivers) were different league of transparency.
 
btw. you know how it is with us. distortion might be barely auditionable but you will end up nervously listening records with ears hunting for distortion, you will became mad and wont enjoy music any more untill you will figure it out. I remember this reliefe when I realise distortion is in the track and stop bothered
 
edit. also it might be small glue residue on magnet inside driver that hooks on diaphragm (happened also

 

[kman1211]

"Sadly my left driver inherently has a bit of a buzzing/rattle issue when heavy bass is playing but it doesn't bother me much."

hi man! you might have some dirt on diaphragm, or you might want to be sure distortions arent recorded in the track, I was reopening driver on mine for few times until I destroyed diaphragm. Just to realise distortion was in the track but I didnt heard it on other headphones I have.

It's not distortions as I've come across the rattle issue on any track with heavy bass. Any distortion that is revealed on the T50RP is also revealed on my Nighthawks, though the T50RP doesn't have the smoothness and refinement of the Nighthawks. Though I do know what you mean about most headphones not revealing the distortion well of the track, I found the K712, DT 150, HD 600, and HD 650 not all that revealing of distortion in the track. It's been like that since before I even tried modding it and only does it on the left channel, I've done the channel swapping before. It's likely the driver is simply slightly bowed out as mentioned by nick n.

 

[c61746961]

I found the glue holding the magnets to the driver assembly had disintegrated leaving some debris on the diaphragm. If you disassemble your drivers, be extra careful when releasing the pins and the motions when pulling the assembly apart, try to do it straight up, otherwise part of the assembly may dislodge and get pinned to the other half, potentially damaging the diaphragm.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

kman1211

You have to remember, new plast only reflects sound. So it won't remove that sibilance, it will only bounce it around. Which is why most mods use acoustic foam, memory foam, lattice structures ect, to help stop reflections. Some use square felt on the back of the driver to help filter treble put.

 

[PETEREK]

Hey guys, I made a How-to video of how I fill the 'Lock' hole on the stock T50RP cup to prep for paint and a different input type. No editing whatsoever, just a cut-and-next-step type of video.
 
HD viewing option should be available shortly after I post this.
 

 

[maul]

Searched the thread, didn't find anything and I'm a newb. Will these fit on the T50s: http://www.brainwavzaudio.com/products/headphone-pad-angled

 

[walbum4262]

Searched the thread, didn't find anything and I'm a newb. Will these fit on the T50s: http://www.brainwavzaudio.com/products/headphone-pad-angled

From what I have seen in this thread they do fit, but the fit is extremely tight, I think I saw it mentioned that you have to put some oil on the rim that goes over the cups and work in that oil and slowly stretch the rim ever so slightly without ripping it apart.

 

[c61746961]

They fit very tightly to the mk2 revisions. If you remove and install them a few times you will very likely end up ripping the pleather or at least the elastic band attached to the flap, making them lose grip to the cup.

 

[maul]

Thanks for the responses - I was hoping for some fat lush Mad Dog type stuff, with some increased soundstage with the angleds. I already have the Shures ordered though, so maybe I'll consider it in the future.

 

[maul]

When I removed the pads, there is a single layer of stock felt over the front of the driver. Is this supposed to be removed? I didn't see it in any of the steps, yet I'm often seeing images similar to this: http://pics.shorty.org/files/1223/Fostex/N82_521-t50rp.jpg
 
Maybe I missed something, I won't be modifying it for now, but some clarification would be awesome - 

 

[DangerClose]

  When I removed the pads, there is a single layer of stock felt over the front of the driver. Is this supposed to be removed? I didn't see it in any of the steps, yet I'm often seeing images similar to this: http://pics.shorty.org/files/1223/Fostex/N82_521-t50rp.jpg

 
Some people do, some people don't.  There's enough debate about it that I'd leave it alone since it's not fully reversible.  Or at least leave it alone until you're sure removing it is going to help the sound you want.