Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
Jan 21, 2015 at 8:07 AM Post #1,591 of 2,832
Jan 22, 2015 at 10:14 AM Post #1,593 of 2,832
So while waiting for new wood I decided to salvage the cups I messed up...the friction fit I wanted isn't there, but they work. More improvements planned for the next try (lower profile baffle for more space in the cup, another try at bass ports...)



The cable is simple Mogami, stripped from the Y, which is only heat shrink. I suppose at some point I will remove the ZMF stickers from that headband :)
 
Jan 22, 2015 at 12:45 PM Post #1,594 of 2,832
So while waiting for new wood I decided to salvage the cups I messed up...the friction fit I wanted isn't there, but they work. More improvements planned for the next try (lower profile baffle for more space in the cup, another try at bass ports...)



The cable is simple Mogami, stripped from the Y, which is only heat shrink. I suppose at some point I will remove the ZMF stickers from that headband
smily_headphones1.gif

 
I love your cups!
 
Can those be purchased? My love of the T50RP is growing. Finally have it tuned to near perfection (for me) and happy enough to invest more $$$ into them.
 
Jan 22, 2015 at 1:16 PM Post #1,595 of 2,832
I love your cups!

Can those be purchased? My love of the T50RP is growing. Finally have it tuned to near perfection (for me) and happy enough to invest more $$$ into them.


Thanks...I just shot you a PM.
 
Jan 23, 2015 at 4:23 AM Post #1,596 of 2,832
So I've been thoroughly enjoying my 'Nickerfied' Make-Up-Pad modified T20RP MKII for quite a few weeks... (months?)
If however like me, you find the treble ever so slightly too piercing or just a bit too forward on some recordings, there's a very simple mod that I find works for me to just take the edge off.
(I do have a preference for slightly rolled-off treble, or 'darker' sounding headphones.)
 
Under the 'bluemonkeydots' (as described on page 1) is a thin gap where the adhesive backing has been snipped away.
Simply place in this gap a thin piece of soft 1mm creatology felt. It should cover/fill the entire length of the hole but be slightly thinner than the hole, as it will most likely try to expand and may peel away the paxmate adhesion if the felt is slightly too big.
 
No idea how it measures, but my ears like it.
That's it.
 
Jan 23, 2015 at 5:44 PM Post #1,598 of 2,832
  Wow, the 3D printed wave guides look really cool. Perhaps I missed it but what do I need to do to print some myself?

Hi BSH,
 
Send a PM to SenCreaTive.
 
The ones I ordered from shapeways <.> com should arrive, tomorrow.
 
News at 10:00,
 
BMF
 
Jan 23, 2015 at 6:26 PM Post #1,599 of 2,832
Wow, the 3D printed wave guides look really cool. Perhaps I missed it but what do I need to do to print some myself?


Once we finalize the design I'll put them up on shapeways to either buy at cost, or download the file.

I might make a few different versions, like a single print pair, or part treeless ones for home printing.

In short you'll just need a 3D printer. If you want to make the print smooth instead of having a bunch of ridges l, you'll have to make sure it was printed out in ABS plasic. (Most common anyways) then Google the smoothing process. Seems rather simple, I've never tried it though. You don't have to smooth them out, but I fear the ridges may effect sound reflection
 
Jan 26, 2015 at 11:45 AM Post #1,602 of 2,832
  Woot, very exciting. Im so glad they fit, when I have time Ill put them up "For Sale" 

 
Beta 2?
 
Consider waiting until you get your set - take a look, install them, and take a listen before making them available.
 
I think there's room for improvement. You could make the base of the 3 singles and the 2 inner wave guides on the main frame a little bit wider.  1.0 to 1.5 mm overall greater width or 0.5 mm to 0.75 mm on either side of each wave guide should work just as long as they don't cover any portion of the 2 mm diameter holes. This would remove rotor turbulence produced at the sharp "ledges" on either side of the two remaining driver cross-members. Widening the wave guides just enough to cover these ledges should remove this source of turbulence and further smooth the sound waves.
 
The inner wave guide on the main frame at the Left side of the photo needs to be moved to the right by about about 0.75 mm so it centers over the driver grid support column.
 
I understand that these are tiny adjustments but we're dealing with tiny components. I've learned that apparently small modifications often result in big changes.
 
The middle support structures attaching the 3 inner wave guides are much thicker than the ones at each end. They were much more difficult to cut, even with a fresh zirconium X-Acto blade. If possible, make them the same size as the end ones for ease of use.
 
When you get yours, check the outer frame total thickness and "lip" that extends out from the frame, all the way around. Was this your design or did shapeways reinforce your design to improve print success. The 3 inner wave guides need to be heightened by ~ 1.5 mm to be even with the main frame wave guides. Mine were off by about 1.5 mm which I solved by sanding the bottom of the main frame until level with the 3 singles.
 
I'll be interested to hear your thoughts once yours arrive...should be soon.
 
Jan 26, 2015 at 1:03 PM Post #1,603 of 2,832
Beta 2?

Consider waiting until you get your set - take a look, install them, and take a listen before making them available.

[COLOR=222222]I think there's room for improvement. You could make the base of the 3 singles and the 2 inner wave guides on the main frame a little bit wider.  1.0 to 1.5 mm overall greater width or 0.5 mm to 0.75 mm on either side of each wave guide should work just as long as they don't cover any portion of the 2 mm diameter holes. This would remove rotor turbulence produced at the sharp "ledges" on either side of the two remaining driver cross-members. Widening the wave guides just enough to cover these ledges should remove this source of turbulence and further smooth the sound waves.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222]The inner wave guide on the main frame at the Left side of the photo needs to be moved to the right by about about 0.75 mm so it centers over the driver grid support column.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222]I understand that these are tiny adjustments but we're dealing with tiny components. I've learned that apparently small modifications often result in big changes.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222]The middle support structures attaching the 3 inner wave guides are much thicker than the ones at each end. They were much more difficult to cut, even with a fresh zirconium X-Acto blade. If possible, make them the same size as the end ones for ease of use.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222]When you get yours, check the outer frame total thickness and "lip" that extends out from the frame, all the way around. Was this your design or did shapeways reinforce your design to improve print success. The 3 inner wave guides need to be heightened by ~ 1.5 mm to be even with the main frame wave guides. Mine were off by about 1.5 mm which I solved by sanding the bottom of the main frame until level with the 3 singles.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
[COLOR=222222]I'll be interested to hear your thoughts once yours arrive...should be soon.[/COLOR]


Mhmm I'll have to see
 
Jan 26, 2015 at 4:19 PM Post #1,604 of 2,832
I was fooling around with mobile amps and my T50RPs which only have a balanced cable modification but other than that are vanilla, and noticed they take a LOT to drive properly. In addition, I noticed on the box that the  max input level is 3000mw, which seems quite huge for a headphone in this range. It also seems that this doesn't only apply to portable amps, some of my desktop amps even have trouble driving them well it seems like, although once they get a quality source and amplifier they sound quite amazing in a balanced configuration (given the amp supports balanced output).
 
Jan 26, 2015 at 6:58 PM Post #1,605 of 2,832
Never done this before but I am planning to to do the Paxmate Lattice Mod with Cotton or Grodan Rock Wool Mod Chapter 22.
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements#user_Paxmate_Lattice_Mod_with_Cotton_or_Grodan_Rock_Wool
 
I chose this mod because of the ease, relative low expense, and also BMF said they sound similar to the DBV V3. I have a set of MrSpeakers Alpha Pads for Fostex T50RP. The mod calls for Shure 840 Pads, but will the Alpha pads be OK or should I try another mod? Also, how does a mod like this or the DBV V3 compare to MrSpeakers Mad Dogs? Thank you all for your time and effort.
 

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