FiiO E17 "ALPEN" - First Impression + Final Thought
Feb 27, 2012 at 1:56 PM Post #1,921 of 6,777
I hope the E17 has a better DAC performance (bass at least) than the E7.  Out of my MacBook USB, with the same files as my iPhone analog out, the iPhone has a proper amount of bass and generally more pleasing and dimensional sound.  
 
Anyone else noticed something similar with the E7? 
 
Anybody compared something similar, or at least the bass via USB, between the E17 vs E7?
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 2:08 PM Post #1,922 of 6,777
Hmm hd600 into spdif

A computer working flawlesly does not mean it will not get any problems. I was just stating facts and experience

E17 and E7 have exact same DAC. What will and does change performance is the e17s new receiver chips and ts two more powerful and better operational amplifiers. ... And eq options
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 2:20 PM Post #1,923 of 6,777

OK this sounds helpful now. Here are the audio devices I see: SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E17) Speakrsr/headphones Communications headphones, Digital Audio (S/PDIF)
Now, I tried manipulating E17 unplugged from the USB, with OPT input, the crackling sound persists still. "Configure" button does not work for any of these devices so I am not sure how to set things right. Someone mentioned Dolby Digital encode format does not work for E17 so I unmarked it, no positive result. I didn't use AUX input of course. Can anyone provide some kind of ... instruction to how I set it to spdif or optical?
Quote:
HD600 directly into SPDIF? If it's a shared analog/SPDIF plug on your computer, then plugging the optical cable in may have set the computer to optical mode on the shared plug. If you go into the sound properties in your control panel and look at 'manage audio devices,' you should see two entries (at least.) One will be Speaker/HP and the other will be Digital Output(Optical) - if it's set to Optical then the headphones won't work when plugged into the shared jack. Highlight Speaker and click 'set to default' and your headphones should work again.
 
As for the E17, does it work when you have a stereo audio cable between your laptop's headphone jack (on Speaker mode) and the E17's AUX input? If so, then does it work when you have a USB cable connected between your laptop and the E17's mini-USB plug, with your 'manage audio devices' set to SPDIF? (Which should appear when you have the E17 plugged into the laptop via USB) Also, be sure you're plugging the optical into the input next to the headphone jack on the E17 (on top, not bottom) and not the AUX input.
 
 



 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 2:23 PM Post #1,924 of 6,777

Yea I definitely understand that. however, as previous person mentioned, there's a possibility to input headphones directly as this is combined jack and that works, so I don't think that's the jack.must be wrong setup or smth else
Quote:
Hmm hd600 into spdif
A computer working flawlesly does not mean it will not get any problems. I was just stating facts and experience
E17 and E7 have exact same DAC. What will and does change performance is the e17s new receiver chips and ts two more powerful and better operational amplifiers. ... And eq options



 
Feb 27, 2012 at 2:30 PM Post #1,925 of 6,777


Quote:
Hmm hd600 into spdif
A computer working flawlesly does not mean it will not get any problems. I was just stating facts and experience
E17 and E7 have exact same DAC. What will and does change performance is the e17s new receiver chips and ts two more powerful and better operational amplifiers. ... And eq options

 
 
It is understandable to compare the E17 with the E7, but performance-wise the E17 should be compared to the iBasso D10. Well it is not better than the D10, but "within the range of vision". The E7 sounds too dry IMO. They all share the same DAC, but E17, E7 and D10 sound very different.
 
E7 = lean curd cheese
 
E17 = juicy beefsteak
 
D10 = juicy kobe meat beefsteak
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 2:48 PM Post #1,926 of 6,777


Quote:
 
 
It is understandable to compare the E17 with the E7, but performance-wise the E17 should be compared to the iBasso D10. Well it is not better than the D10, but "within the range of vision". The E7 sounds too dry IMO. They all share the same DAC, but E17, E7 and D10 sound very different.
 
E7 = lean curd cheese
 
E17 = juicy beefsteak
 
D10 = juicy kobe meat beefsteak


most compare the E series by FiiO to the D-Zero and D7..it's not fair to compare it to a product 75% more expensive
 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 3:15 PM Post #1,927 of 6,777


Quote:
most compare the E series by FiiO to the D-Zero and D7..it's not fair to compare it to a product 75% more expensive
 



Aah ok, the D-Zero.
 
I was just thinking SQ-wise, wasn't thinking about prize. Also having both at home, it was tempting to compare them. If you use a crappy combination of opamps in the D10, you can make the D10 sound worse than E17, hahahaha
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 5:54 PM Post #1,928 of 6,777


 
Quote:
OK this sounds helpful now. Here are the audio devices I see: SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E17) Speakrsr/headphones Communications headphones, Digital Audio (S/PDIF)
Now, I tried manipulating E17 unplugged from the USB, with OPT input, the crackling sound persists still. "Configure" button does not work for any of these devices so I am not sure how to set things right. Someone mentioned Dolby Digital encode format does not work for E17 so I unmarked it, no positive result. I didn't use AUX input of course. Can anyone provide some kind of ... instruction to how I set it to spdif or optical?


 


Speakers/Headphones will be your headphone out jack... analog out. This would go to the AUX on the E17 and the E17 input should be set to AUX.
 
SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E17) would be the USB digital out... USB cable from your laptop to the mini-USB on the E17 and the E17 input should be set to USB.
 
I THINK the Digital Audio (S/PDIF) would be the optical out from your laptop... you would use the optical out from your laptop which should be the headphone out if the jack is a dual type. You would have the mini-toslink to toslink/adapter you got from Micca from the headphone jack to the SPDIF IN input on the E17 (on top next to the headphone jack) and set the input to OPT.
 
What I would do is concentrate on getting the digital USB working first. When you look at the control panel, which option has a green check next to it? (There SHOULD be a green check on the device that the laptop is currently using to output sound.) See if you can set it to the one that says FiiO and use the USB cable to the E17, which should be set to USB.
 
EDIT: I just looked at the specs for your laptop. You have 2 line-out (analog) and a combined headphone/SPDIF jack, which will be your optical out. Also, you have different types of USB ports... for the E17 I would recommend the straight USB2 ports vs the USB2/USB3 combo or the eSata/USB combo.
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:15 PM Post #1,929 of 6,777
Wow. me confused. 
here is how it looks (screenshot)


 
The other end of the cable indeed is RED when I plug the tosslink cable into my laptop's port. I use then adapter to connect the smaller end to my E17 into the port on top of the device. E17 is also connected via USB to my pc. headphones are in the Headphone jack (on top of the device). Now, if I disregard all the SPDIF input stuff, my E17 outpots sound via USB, if i choose for it to output sound via OPT, crackling begins. HERE's where it gets interesting: if I disable E17 in sound devices, the crackling sound in the headphones minimizes to a very small, background level. needless to say its still disturbing.
I started digging further and here' s what I discovered:

Turns out, if I set the format to 192000 Hz on either 16 bit or 24 bit, the sound gets all crackllin' and whoreish. I also did not notice any big difference between the two (s/pdif or USB). I would even say the sound is even clearer over usb?...
 
ideas?
Quote:
Speakers/Headphones will be your headphone out jack... analog out. This would go to the AUX on the E17 and the E17 input should be set to AUX.
 
SPDIF Interface (FiiO USB DAC-E17) would be the USB digital out... USB cable from your laptop to the mini-USB on the E17 and the E17 input should be set to USB.
 
I THINK the Digital Audio (S/PDIF) would be the optical out from your laptop... you would use the optical out from your laptop which may be the analog out if the jack is a dual type. Not being familiar with your laptop, I can only go with what mine is. You can tell if your headphone out jack on your laptop doubles as optical if you plug a mini-toslink cable to it, (if you got your E17 from Micca then you have he cable and adapter) set the Digital Audio S/PDIF as the defalut, and see a red light on the other end of the cable.
 
What I would do is concentrate on getting the digital USB working first. When you look at the control panel, which option has a green check next to it? (There SHOULD be a green check on the device that the laptop is currently using to output sound.)



 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:20 PM Post #1,930 of 6,777


Quote:
Wow. me confused. 
...
 
Turns out, if I set the format to 192000 Hz on either 16 bit or 24 bit, the sound gets all crackllin' and whoreish. I also did not notice any big difference between the two (s/pdif or USB). I would even say the sound is even clearer over usb?...
 
ideas?


 



As set, you should be getting sound via the USB input setting on the E17. Have you tried this without the optical cable?
 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:22 PM Post #1,931 of 6,777
if S/PDIF is personaly causing you problems.. just use USB. yes audiophiliey it is "better" to use 192KHz but really unless you know exactly what you are doing, as in super tracks, some tube amps and great components there with some HD800's most won't hear 96KHz and 192KHz difference if at all
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:23 PM Post #1,932 of 6,777


Quote:
if S/PDIF is personaly causing you problems.. just use USB. yes audiophiliey it is "better" to use 192KHz but really unless you know exactly what you are doing, as in super tracks, some tube amps and great components there with some HD800's most won't hear 96KHz and 192KHz difference if at all


He has a crackling problem we're working on atm... he mentioned the 192 as possibly contributing to the problem.
 
 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:35 PM Post #1,933 of 6,777


Quote:
He has a crackling problem we're working on atm... he mentioned the 192 as possibly contributing to the problem.
 
 

Skimming doesn't get you everything :wink: I'll leave it to you guys then. I wont necessarily "read read" the posts on S/PDIF so if anyone else has any specifc questions just put an @bowei006 IF they want to reach me
 
 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 6:40 PM Post #1,934 of 6,777


Quote:
Skimming doesn't get you everything :wink: I'll leave it to you guys then. I wont necessarily "read read" the posts on S/PDIF so if anyone else has any specifc questions just put an @bowei006 IF they want to reach me
 
 


Backup is always a good thing, your input is appreciated. (KNEW I'd caught you skimming! :p) I think we're narrowing things down, and I'll definitely @ you if we get to the bottom of it and I can't find a solution. :)
 
 
 
Feb 27, 2012 at 7:03 PM Post #1,935 of 6,777
Aight I see whats going on here :D 
I DO appreciate all and any input you guys have in my questions, really, I do.
yes, correct, the issue we are dealing with is crackling all over the place when S/PDIF jack is set to default and device set to output OPT via 24 or 16 bit and 192 000 Hz.
USB connection works like charm, sound is great, no questions asked there. 
 

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