[bogginhead]

I finally got around to installing a Muses01 into my DIY. Now...it won't hold a charge. I saw some discussion a few pages back on this issue; what was recommended to solve this? I've got the blinking blue light.

 

[Mad Max]

So the V5i arrived today from Burson. Firstly, forget about fitting it in the E12DIY casing (in case that wasn't clear from other people's comments). Here's a pic to demonstrate: https://photos.app.goo.gl/76ctI1r2gLwUTqrt1

Sadly, my first test session resulted in fried HA5002 buffers!!!! I should clarify that this was NOT user error as the V5i worked perfectly with the LM49600, but was a bit shaky with the BUF634. I'm not sure exactly what is going on to cause the problems (hissing, etc.), but I do know that my HA5002 are junk now.

I expect to hear wonderful things from the V5i once I'm brave enough (and my ears have settled down enough) to try it again, but for now wanted to warn you good folks to be careful if using the V5i op-amp in your E12DIY.

I'm seeing in the datasheet that HA5002 should get input resistors of somewhere between 50-1k ohms, any amp we play with is only going to use 10 ohms at most. That could be a part of the problem. Burson output frying something is definitely weird, assuming no mistake on your part like putting in the wrong opamp type (single vs dual) or inserting something backwards.

 

[ClieOS]

I'm seeing in the datasheet that HA5002 should get input resistors of somewhere between 50-1k ohms, any amp we play with is only going to use 10 ohms at most. That could be a part of the problem. Burson output frying something is definitely weird, assuming no mistake on your part like putting in the wrong opamp type (single vs dual) or inserting something backwards.

One thing I have said in the very early of this thread when using HA-5002 (which I think I am probably the first to use it on E12DIY) is that this buffer has no current limiting. If the source (the opamp upstream) already has a lot of output current, that add to HA-5002's output when you plug your headphone in WHILE the amp is already turned on, the left and right channels' pins can short just a tiny bit and send a power surge back to the HA-5002, which will fry it if it is big enough. I am guessing that could be the case here (*which might not be a problem when used with opamp with smaller output current as the surge might not be big enough to destroy the buffer). Regardless, the proper way to use HA-5002 as buffer for headphone is to always plug your headphone in (or unplug the headphone) when the amp is turned off

 

[Hal Rockwell]

Does anyone has a clue where can I get a replacement battery for E12DIY?

 

[ClieOS]

Does anyone has a clue where can I get a replacement battery for E12DIY?

Try contacting FiiO first. They probably used the same battery for the A5 as well. For the least you ca get the proper spec for a replacement battery.

 

[Hal Rockwell]

Try contacting FiiO first. They probably used the same battery for the A5 as well. For the least you ca get the proper spec for a replacement battery.

Tried that. They have non left in stock.

 

[snellemin]

Got bored and finally installed stand-offs for the capacitors. Now I can roll caps too.

 

[evenrave]

I just registered and I can not upload a photo, I did not understand how. I have MUSE 02 and they play superbly after replacing the LME49720. But I bought from a dealer from the United States at a price cheaper than the official. How to upload a photo on this site? I apologize for Google translator)
In appearance, they are very similar to the original but the legs are not very soft, they are the same as op LME49720, only with effort you can bend them, but even if it is not original, they give an adult sound, warm, natural and pleasant.

 

[Zweiguys]

Got bored and finally installed stand-offs for the capacitors. Now I can roll caps too.

@snellemin Would you explain your mods? Why the resistors on the buffers? What’s the component on the muses 02?
tia

 

[ClieOS]

@snellemin Would you explain your mods? Why the resistors on the buffers? What’s the component on the muses 02?
tia

Resistors on the BUF634 is to push it into wide bandwidth mode (from 30 MHz to 180 MHz). Think of it like an overdrive. Some think it gives a better sound that way but other think it is an overkill, as even 30MHz is already way more than you will ever need for audio purpose.

The red capacitor (look like a Wima?) next to the opamp is probably for decoupling (*V+ and V-). In short, it is there to provide extra stability in case of any fast voltage fluctuation.

 

[Zweiguys]

Resistors on the BUF634 is to push it into wide bandwidth mode (from 30 MHz to 180 MHz). Think of it like an overdrive. Some think it gives a better sound that way but other think it is an overkill, as even 30MHz is already way more than you will ever need for audio purpose.

The red capacitor (look like a Wima?) next to the opamp is probably for decoupling (*V+ and V-). In short, it is there to provide extra stability in case of any fast voltage fluctuation.

Thanks for that info. Do you feel these changes/additions are worth it overall?
How about the caps included in the diy kit? I read through most, if not all, of this thread and haven’t seen much mention of them.

 

[ClieOS]

Thanks for that info. Do you feel these changes/additions are worth it overall?
How about the caps included in the diy kit? I read through most, if not all, of this thread and haven’t seen much mention of them.

I have not tried wide bandwidth mode on the buffer so I can't comment about it. The Wima on the opamp should be fairly benign though I don't think it will have any drastic effect to the sound. The one I will recommend modding is actually the input caps, which are those two goldish caps next to the opamp on the picture above.

 

[Zweiguys]

Has there been any in depth discussion on changing the caps you mention? I’m up to page 118 of this thread and the topic of caps is starting to be talked about. I’d like a better understanding of what it is I’m reading.
I’m not sure I’d attempt any component replacing. I’ve done plenty of cap replacement on iMac G5 computers and had my share of lifted solder pads. I don’t want to ruin a perfectly good amp. I do though wish to learn about what I’m hearing and what it is that makes it sound the way it does.
Currently I have fiio X5ii, E12diy with opa627 and ha5002 driving a Massdrop HD6xx.
Again, thank you for taking the time to help me out.

 

[ClieOS]

Has there been any in depth discussion on changing the caps you mention? I’m up to page 118 of this thread and the topic of caps is starting to be talked about. I’d like a better understanding of what it is I’m reading.
I’m not sure I’d attempt any component replacing. I’ve done plenty of cap replacement on iMac G5 computers and had my share of lifted solder pads. I don’t want to ruin a perfectly good amp. I do though wish to learn about what I’m hearing and what it is that makes it sound the way it does.
Currently I have fiio X5ii, E12diy with opa627 and ha5002 driving a Massdrop HD6xx.
Again, thank you for taking the time to help me out.

You won't find a lot of info about input caps on this thread. The best bet is to search the DIY forum for older threads. One thing I will suggest is to put in pin socket instead of soldering the caps directly to the PCB.

Also read this: https://tangentsoft.net/audio/input-cap.html
^That where I started my caps rolling journey all those years ago. The rest are all trial and error to find what best suit your taste.

 

[Hal Rockwell]

Hi guys, after a few weeks listening to V5iD, muses02 and SS3602 pairing with LM49600.

My setup: X7II + E12DIY in high gain + Norne Draugh V2C + Denon D7200.

I came to a conclusion as below:

SS3602>V5iD>Muses02

The muses02 to my ear is more mid centric and smoother compare to the other two.

Meanwhile V5iD and SS3602 are much less mid forward, with v5i and ss3602 you will get more depth and width, much better clarity than muses02. The bass get more control with these 2. However the Treble in V5iD does not impress me as much as SS3602.

Out of the 3, mid in ss3602 is the most laid back, i think that's the reason why I feel the air and space is wider?

Anyway, considering the price tag SS3602 performs as expected. Meanwhile the V5iD is a surprise for me, it's half the price tag of SS3602 but the differences in performance is not that far off. I find them sounding quite similar, I think I can say SS3602 is an upgrade version of V5iD with twice the price tag.

How's the battery life with the V5i and SS3602?