Thanks to @ClieOS , @snellemin and @bogginhead for the help and encouragement.
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FiiO E12DIY Limited Edition Version---DIY your own sound !
- Thread starter JamesFiiO
- Start date
Those Silmics are high ESR, they definitely need some bypass film caps. I recommend 400V WIMA MKP4s or 160V (or greater) Vishay MKP1839s, the latter is my favorite. 100nF or more, it's up to you.
unless there are some ceramic decoupling caps nearby somewhere in the circuit, you're likely to get a bit of "compression" in your sound with just Silmics.
unless there are some ceramic decoupling caps nearby somewhere in the circuit, you're likely to get a bit of "compression" in your sound with just Silmics.
Will any harm be done to the circuitry if I use only the Elena silmic II caps I have on order? I also have some of the gold Nichicon caps coming as shown inThose Silmics are high ESR, they definitely need some bypass film caps. I recommend 400V WIMA MKP4s or 160V (or greater) Vishay MKP1839s, the latter is my favorite. 100nF or more, it's up to you.
unless there are some ceramic decoupling caps nearby somewhere in the circuit, you're likely to get a bit of "compression" in your sound with just Silmics.
post #2332 by @snellemin.
Is the red component attached to the op amp a bypass film cap? (Same post #)
Will any harm be done to the circuitry if I use only the Elena silmic II caps I have on order? I also have some of the gold Nichicon caps coming as shown in
post #2332 by @snellemin.
Is the red component attached to the op amp a bypass film cap? (Same post #)
It won't technically 'harm' the circuit if you use only Silmic II. Whether you like the sound on it alone or with another bypass film caps together is however really more of a personal taste.
Where in the circuit would I install the additional cap(s)? Is it here?
I think I already answered the same question before on your previous post - it is between V+ and V- on the opamp socket.
If you still have no idea - read this page and look for the picture of pinout for the dual channels opamp: https://tangentsoft.net/elec/opamp-tester.html
p/s: Though I always encourage the DIY spirit, you should really read into the theory and reasoning before doing any mod.
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Muses 01 arrived along with two different types of input caps. My case required very little grinding in order for the op amp to fit. Ordered the caps for the op amp socket but I’ll wait to get a feel for what it is I’m hearing and if I feel it needs any adjustment. Time to slow down and see what I have going on.
The new sound is very nice. Making it easier to weed out the poor recordings I have.
The new sound is very nice. Making it easier to weed out the poor recordings I have.
bogginhead
Banned - AKA Lee McDonaldUnreturned Tour Gear, Sells Borrowed Gear, Incomplete Trades
Muses 01 arrived along with two different types of input caps. My case required very little grinding in order for the op amp to fit. Ordered the caps for the op amp socket but I’ll wait to get a feel for what it is I’m hearing and if I feel it needs any adjustment. Time to slow down and see what I have going on.
The new sound is very nice. Making it easier to weed out the poor recordings I have.
Awesome I'm trying to dredge up the courage to start on mine!!!
Installed the Vishay MKP 1839 at the values stated. Cleaned up the sound a bit.Those Silmics are high ESR, they definitely need some bypass film caps. I recommend 400V WIMA MKP4s or 160V (or greater) Vishay MKP1839s, the latter is my favorite. 100nF or more, it's up to you.
unless there are some ceramic decoupling caps nearby somewhere in the circuit, you're likely to get a bit of "compression" in your sound with just Silmics.
I soldered the cap directly to the muses 01. That’s was not my preferred way but I had trouble coming up with a way that I felt comfortable with doing.
Will changing the value of these caps have any effect on sound. If not I’ll leave well enough alone. If so I’ll come up with a way to install pin sockets so I can easily swap caps.
Looking for some clarification regarding R25/R27 R22/R20 (L:R20/R27)
This is mentioned on the included instruction sheet. States the gain multiplier on the high gain setting will be changed. Changed to more gain or less?
Can someone explain what resistors get moved and to where?
This is mentioned on the included instruction sheet. States the gain multiplier on the high gain setting will be changed. Changed to more gain or less?
Can someone explain what resistors get moved and to where?
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bogginhead
Banned - AKA Lee McDonaldUnreturned Tour Gear, Sells Borrowed Gear, Incomplete Trades
Does anyone know where I might find a replacement battery for my E12 DIY? I've looked everywhere on the internet and haven't found the correct one anywhere so far after a week of looking. Messaged FIIO and haven't received any response.
hoekeat
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I am running into same problem. Similarly, Fiio is not replying.Does anyone know where I might find a replacement battery for my E12 DIY? I've looked everywhere on the internet and haven't found the correct one anywhere so far after a week of looking. Messaged FIIO and haven't received any response.
Is there any compatible battery we can use? Or any LiPo that match the voltage will do?
KittySneeze
Head-Fier
Not sure this is helpful, but in the past FiiO has offered to conduct the repairs themselves, or even send instructions and battery to the customer. See the thread here for verification. Maybe try contacting them via their support email.
I’d be wary of sourcing batteries yourself since it is such an integral part of how portables function, and may result in power/audio issues in the device overall. However, they do mention you can replace the battery yourself so long as you can solder, so if you can find a matching spec battery that fits the size requirements, that is possible. Here’s the specs in case you didn’t have it.
Edit: This may work. It seems like the correct spec, but not sure about it’s quality or size in relation to the E12 chassis.
I’d be wary of sourcing batteries yourself since it is such an integral part of how portables function, and may result in power/audio issues in the device overall. However, they do mention you can replace the battery yourself so long as you can solder, so if you can find a matching spec battery that fits the size requirements, that is possible. Here’s the specs in case you didn’t have it.
Edit: This may work. It seems like the correct spec, but not sure about it’s quality or size in relation to the E12 chassis.
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Danthuyer
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Looking to buy one of these DIY units ... PM me
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