[HungryPanda]

It's all about experimenting, try both with nothing else and see

 

[robar]

I've opened up the Fengru Silver (tc200) to see what's inside, potentially for modding (reducing v shape plus improve low bass, or shell swap). Do you know what driver is this? A bit looks like diy mx500 on ali, but colored differently and supposedly 16ohm versus 32.
Opening up was fairly straightforward with little bit of hairdryer, but the driver itself was a bit glued to the shell, so the front cover came loose for a sec. I should be more careful next time, I'm quite scared of detached covers because I managed to ruin vido drivers with that.

 

[robar]

I don't recommend tc200 for diy projects, one of the drivers died on me when I opened up the shell. The circuit/magnet part was glued on the shell somehow, so when I took off the front the driver got separated, the circuit/magnet stayed in the shell while the membrane and coil remained in the grille and got damaged. :/ Interestingly, I didn't have this problem with the other half, it was pretty easy to open it and stayed intact just fine. Maybe some manufacturing inconsistency caused the excessive glue on the died one

 

[silverfishla]

Pliobond is the glue that you should get to mate driver and shell. Works great. Just in case, since I’ve seen other forms of glue floating around.
Edit: it goes on liquid and becomes tacky, then turns into a rubber seal. Squeeze out can be peeled off or rubbed off. Very clean bond.

 

[subwoof3r]

I succeed my first retermination to 2.5mm balanced TRRS ️ Very pleased with the result, balanced FTW!
Thank you @hakuzen & @HungryPanda for the hints! much appreciated

 

[Merlin-PT]

Pliobond is the glue that you should get to mate driver and shell. Works great. Just in case, since I’ve seen other forms of glue floating around.
Edit: it goes on liquid and becomes tacky, then turns into a rubber seal. Squeeze out can be peeled off or rubbed off. Very clean bond.

I saw a youtube video to see how Pliobond looked like and it looks like Patex that I have here, but I don't know if it's equivalent.
I never tried to glue the drivers before and didn't knew what to use, so the only one time I needed to glue a vido driver that was separated from the membrane, I used thin varnish, because it looked like that some kind of varnish was already used in the drivers. Patex would be too think and the varnish I used is thin like water (very low viscocity), doesn't occupy space. I was worried if it would react with the membrane, but had no problem.

To glue both parts of the plastic housing, I was thinking of using some kind of weak thread/nut locker, there are several strengths, the weak one is designed to glue, but also to unglue with weak force. It looks like some kind of thin varnish. Still I never used it, because all my housings close well without glue, so I don't know what is the best.

 

[HungryPanda]

E8000 is the glue that I use on all my earbud projects

 

[Merlin-PT]

I have several of those AliE glues in cart to try (for different uses), but didn't knew what to order first.
I'll order that one first. Thanks.

 

[subwoof3r]

Personally I'm using cyanolit (cyanoacrylate) glue, especially for MMCX PIN sockets, does the trick very well, but once its dry, its impossible to remove after. So I have to make other shells with other PIN sockets (which is sad, considering MMCX socket prices on ali)

 

[assassin10000]

Personally I'm using cyanolit (cyanoacrylate) glue, especially for MMCX PIN sockets, does the trick very well, but once its dry, its impossible to remove after. So I have to make other shells with other PIN sockets (which is sad, considering MMCX socket prices on ali)

I'm not 100% sure, but I think it's been mentioned that the off gassing or exothermic reaction from that glue can damage diaphragms. (By slater or hungrypanda iirc?)

Anyone here able to confirm?


I've been trying to decide on an adhesive myself, current choices are: e8000, pva or now pliobond.

 

[HungryPanda]

I personally would not recommend super glue. E8000 is best E7000 is a little bit more pliable and used more for phone and dap repairs

 

[subwoof3r]

E8000 (15ml) ordered!
thanks for your recommendations

 

[subwoof3r]

btw, if I may suggest, another of my great tools is THIS solder sucker (ENGINEER SS-02)
I'm using it now since few weeks. This is one of the best (if not the best) solder sucker ever made.
Greatly finished (100% made in japan) and sucking power is just incredible. A real pleasure to use this tool for every of my DIY projects. I tried cheaper solder sucker in the past and its night and day difference. The only cons is the price but it really worth it. Highly recommended from me

 

[endia]

btw, if I may suggest, another of my great tools is THIS solder sucker (ENGINEER SS-02)
I'm using it now since few weeks. This is one of the best (if not the best) solder sucker ever made.
Greatly finished (100% made in japan) and sucking power is just incredible. A real pleasure to use this tool for every of my DIY projects. I tried cheaper solder sucker in the past and its night and day difference. The only cons is the price but it really worth it. Highly recommended from me

I've been using this one for two years and never look back. totally different level to me.. but it was half the price at the time..

US $42.20 | WALFRONT 30W 220V 50Hz Electric Vacuum Solder Sucker /Desoldering Pump / Iron Gun
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Ob0l7R2o

 

[subwoof3r]

If it can help I just made (for myself) a balanced TRRS plug schema, hope it will help some of you in case of need
(sorry for the lunashop watermark, but I found the position of the plug very good to show)