Any suggestions for cheap(ish) durable braided cable for Denon D5000s? My stock cable keeps fraying and getting into crazy knots. I'd want something as good as the stock cable.
It looks like good wire. I might give it a try. I really like the silver plated ofc wire I found on ebay. It sounds nice very bright and clear. It made better interconnects than a pair of monster cables I paid 3x as much.
Hi there everyone, I hope this is the right place to post this (first post!). I'm just about to start gathering parts to make some decent cables, first cable to make will be a stereo 1/4" jack lead. I've decided on Canare L4E6S Starquad cable as it seems to be well used on these forums, so I'm presuming it's decent. However, I'm not 100% on wiring it up!
For starquad, with its 4 conductors plus shield, would you wire the 2 white conductors to L (tip), 2 blue to R (ring) and the shield to ground? Seems right to me, but I thought I'd check before I spend any money & waste it!
Also, as for sleeving the cable, I would love to use paracord as I like how it looks and feels (I've sleeved a few PSUs for PCs), but obviously paracord is way too smaller diameter for the starquad. Does anyone know what material sleeving I need to be looking for to buy similar stuff but larger? (or links?! - I'm UK)
Thanks everyone, and sorry for the stupid questions! noob.... hehehe
Hi there everyone, I hope this is the right place to post this (first post!). I'm just about to start gathering parts to make some decent cables, first cable to make will be a stereo 1/4" jack lead. I've decided on Canare L4E6S Starquad cable as it seems to be well used on these forums, so I'm presuming it's decent. However, I'm not 100% on wiring it up!
For starquad, with its 4 conductors plus shield, would you wire the 2 white conductors to L (tip), 2 blue to R (ring) and the shield to ground? Seems right to me, but I thought I'd check before I spend any money & waste it!
Also, as for sleeving the cable, I would love to use paracord as I like how it looks and feels (I've sleeved a few PSUs for PCs), but obviously paracord is way too smaller diameter for the starquad. Does anyone know what material sleeving I need to be looking for to buy similar stuff but larger? (or links?! - I'm UK)
Thanks everyone, and sorry for the stupid questions! noob.... hehehe
Usually what I've seen done is wiring one conductor to tip, one to ring, and two to ground. Leave the shield unconnected.
For sleeving the entire cable, I've seen people use shoelaces (cut off the tends and it's a hollow tube!) or something called Techflex. Hope this gets you moving in the right direction!
Cheers stillhart! I can't believe the shielding is un-wired, having only ever wired up guitar cables for people, where the shield is wired... Doesn't not wiring the cores up in pairs defeat the point of having four cores?
Also, I'll have a look at techflex, shoelaces are abit soft for me - I tend to be quite brutal on cables and wear through them alot hahaha Thanks
Cheers stillhart! I can't believe the shielding is un-wired, having only ever wired up guitar cables for people, where the shield is wired... Doesn't not wiring the cores up in pairs defeat the point of having four cores?
Also, I'll have a look at techflex, shoelaces are abit soft for me - I tend to be quite brutal on cables and wear through them alot hahaha Thanks
Kevlar reinforced shoelaces are probably worth looking into (like for work boots). They shouldn't be too expensive.
Regarding the shielding, I got the impression you were wiring a TRS plug, which doesn't take advantage of the 4th conductor. This is how I understand people wire TRS with Mogami cable. I believe you can tin the shielding in with the two ground conductors if you want, but most folks seem to think it's not necessary.
This is a guide that I found helpful that might help you too: http://www.instructables.com/id/Quality-DIY-headphone-cable-replacement/?ALLSTEPS
I used mogami 2893, or you can use canare 4e5c for this http://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1385375/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL which I covered in 650 para cord you have to strip both the rubber outer sleeve and also the shielding off the cable then it will be small enough to put the para cord over. what others are saying is correct you don't use the shielding its 2 grounds(white) and use the blues for left and right signal.
Cheers guys, very helpful! I guess the starquad formation is only useful for balanced audio then, in terms of cancelling out interference. So a high quality 2 conductor (+ shield) would be just as good? Or is it better to have the ground through a dedicated conductor and just tin in the ground as suggested for starquad?
And kevlar shoelaces might be a good idea!
Also, the instructable was very useful, thanks for the link.
Cheers guys, very helpful! I guess the starquad formation is only useful for balanced audio then, in terms of cancelling out interference. So a high quality 2 conductor (+ shield) would be just as good? Or is it better to have the ground through a dedicated conductor and just tin in the ground as suggested for starquad?
And kevlar shoelaces might be a good idea!
Also, the instructable was very useful, thanks for the link.
I use star quad, strip out the wires, sleeve them individually, then braid em. I use 4 because it makes a nice looking braid. Mostly that's an aesthetic choice. Looks good, very flexible.
If you choose to do a 2-conductor cable, you'll want to use the shielding as the ground, I guess. I've never tried it, but you definitely need a ground...
I lost track of just what are we making with Star-Quad?
a] Balanced analog interconnect
b] Unbalanced analog interconnect
c] Headphone cable
Note that for balanced interconnects, Twisted Pair Shielded (TPS) will be as good as Star-Quad except in extremely hostile environments. Running a mic cable near theater lights would be an extremely hostile environment.
I was asking how to wire starquad for trs, unbalanced stereo, but it's all sorted now! Seems to me starquad is primarily designed for stereo balanced signal, but obviously works well for other stuff! Once I get some money together I'll order my parts and get started, keep an eye on the picture thread...
Hey everyone i just wanted to ask since my rp-htx7 form panasonic came to their age, the jack started to fall apart.
And i decided to change it, however going with just a jack was to simple so, I decided to add the detachable mod.
However i cannot do it neatly and place jack socket inside of the cup there is almost no space at all(or i havent found small enough jack socket)
So i decided to go with the dongle such as LUMBERG KLK 22.
And here's my question should i change the cable thats soldered to the driver(considering that it'll be pain in the back because of how close the soldering points are.)
Will there be any significant "diffrence" considering using old cable and some brand new one mixed together with a jack socket.
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