[Bobo Fret]

Howdy all.
 
Gonna try a DIY headphone cable for my Hifiman 560's.  I'm still researching parts and supplies, but I do have some questions on the general procedure I thought I would ask.  I've read the 1st 50 pages of this thread and got some great info, but I can't read all 266, so forgive me if some of this was covered.
 
I have experience making guitar patch cables, speaker cables, Speakon cables and the like, but I could use a little guidance here.
 
 
·   1.  Regarding the actual wiring:  For a 4-conductor braid, is this correct?  On the TRS side:  One wire to tip and ring respectively and two wires to sleeve?  On the Hifiman connectors after the split:  The wires from tip and ring go to the Hifiman center pin on the L and R connector respectively.  This leaves one wire to connect to the outer sleeve on each L and R connector respectively.  Correct?
 
·   2.  So if I wanted to start with a 6-wire braid instead of 4, I presume one extra wire is connected to each of the tip and ring on the TRS side and on the other end, the extra wire terminates on the center pin on the Hifiman.  Correct?  I’ve read that connecting the “extra” wires on the outer sleeve of the Hifiman connectors instead of on the center pins is not the way to go, yes?
 
·   3.  I’d like to try to use some nylon mesh or MDPC-X for an outer covering.  Maybe two colors, one for before and after the split respectively.  My question is, what’s going on at the Y-split with the mesh?  For example in the picture below (I like the Viable splitter) what's going on under there?  Simply heat shrink all the ends together?  Is this where the hot glue comes in?  I see hot glue on supply lists for DIY but I don’t see anywhere what it’s used for.  As an alternative, would it be acceptable to do paracord inside the nylon mesh wrap and simply keep the paracord exposed past the split and terminate the mesh at the Y?  Maybe a little cleaner/easier that way????
 
·   4.  How to heat the heat shrink tubing correctly.  I generally use a lighter, but that looks poopy, but for my guitar pedalboard patch cables I don’t care about the scorch marks.  Correct way?  Hairdryer?  Heat gun?  
 
·   5.   What setting on my multi-meter for testing connections?  I know...dumb question.
 
    Sorry for such basic questions. I really appreciate any and all input.
 
     BTW, is this splitter heavy?  I presume it's aluminum.
 
    
 
 
 
S
 
 

 

[Zashoomin]

  Howdy all.
 
Gonna try a DIY headphone cable for my Hifiman 560's.  I'm still researching parts and supplies, but I do have some questions on the general procedure I thought I would ask.  I've read the 1st 50 pages of this thread and got some great info, but I can't read all 266, so forgive me if some of this was covered.
 
I have experience making guitar patch cables, speaker cables, Speakon cables and the like, but I could use a little guidance here.
 
 
·   1.  Regarding the actual wiring:  For a 4-conductor braid, is this correct?  On the TRS side:  One wire to tip and ring respectively and two wires to sleeve?  On the Hifiman connectors after the split:  The wires from tip and ring go to the Hifiman center pin on the L and R connector respectively.  This leaves one wire to connect to the outer sleeve on each L and R connector respectively.  Correct?
 
·   2.  So if I wanted to start with a 6-wire braid instead of 4, I presume one extra wire is connected to each of the tip and ring on the TRS side and on the other end, the extra wire terminates on the center pin on the Hifiman.  Correct?  I’ve read that connecting the “extra” wires on the outer sleeve of the Hifiman connectors instead of on the center pins is not the way to go, yes?
 
·   3.  I’d like to try to use some nylon mesh or MDPC-X for an outer covering.  Maybe two colors, one for before and after the split respectively.  My question is, what’s going on at the Y-split with the mesh?  For example in the picture below (I like the Viable splitter) what's going on under there?  Simply heat shrink all the ends together?  Is this where the hot glue comes in?  I see hot glue on supply lists for DIY but I don’t see anywhere what it’s used for.  As an alternative, would it be acceptable to do paracord inside the nylon mesh wrap and simply keep the paracord exposed past the split and terminate the mesh at the Y?  Maybe a little cleaner/easier that way????
 
·   4.  How to heat the heat shrink tubing correctly.  I generally use a lighter, but that looks poopy, but for my guitar pedalboard patch cables I don’t care about the scorch marks.  Correct way?  Hairdryer?  Heat gun?  
 
·   5.   What setting on my multi-meter for testing connections?  I know...dumb question.
 
    Sorry for such basic questions. I really appreciate any and all input.
 
     BTW, is this splitter heavy?  I presume it's aluminum.
 
    
 
 
 
S
 
 

1. correct
2. correct...btw you will soon understand why we all hate hifiman connectors. 
3. you could do any of the ways that you mentioned,but you could also just have enough paracord to reach into the y split and have friction take care of the rest.  Meaning that the material you use weather it be paracord or nylon microfilment, or even techflex will most likely stay hidden in the connector if you just extend it a bit into the Y split.  
4. You can do it very well with a lighter, but you have to keep the flame moving the entire time or you will burn the heat shrink.  Also, as soon as it shrinks, you need to turn off the heat.  If you do it right, you can get it looking like it is supposed to. Hairdryer works, but takes forever.  Heatgun is the best, but also the most expensive.  
5. Set it to ohms.  basically you are testing for continuity using the ohms setting (the one with the omega).  if you touch two ends and the meter reads 0 (or very close to 0) than that means that it is conducting from one side to the other, if it reads 1 (which is equivalent in this case to infinity), that means that there is no continuity. Use this to test if you are checking for shorts and seeing if you soldered everything correctly and well.  
 
That splitter is aluminum and very light.  Also a lot bigger than you would think so be careful...it is very big.  
 
keep asking questions.  If you don't ask, you can't learn.  

 

[Bobo Fret]

My new best friend!!!
 
Thanks a million Zashoomin!  I think I have enough information to get me started now.
 
I'm sure I'll have questions going forward, so I'lll be sure to check in.
 
Off to bed...

 

[Bobo Fret]

And since we're sort of on the topic...do y'all see any benefit to doing a 6-wire vs.a 4-wire braid sonically.  It would be a bigger PITA working with more wires and those Hifiman connectors, so if the benefit doesn't significantly outweigh the hassle, then forgets it.
 
 
Also, anyone digging Plussounds' copper/silver/gold wire?  Worth the cost vs. staight-up copper (or plated copper for that matter).  I know it's debatable, but opinions still appreciated.

 

[Zashoomin]

  My new best friend!!!
 
Thanks a million Zashoomin!  I think I have enough information to get me started now.
 
I'm sure I'll have questions going forward, so I'lll be sure to check in.
 
Off to bed...

 
 

  And since we're sort of on the topic...do y'all see any benefit to doing a 6-wire vs.a 4-wire braid sonically.  It would be a bigger PITA working with more wires and those Hifiman connectors, so if the benefit doesn't significantly outweigh the hassle, then forgets it.
 
 
Also, anyone digging Plussounds' copper/silver/gold wire?  Worth the cost vs. staight-up copper (or plated copper for that matter).  I know it's debatable, but opinions still appreciated.

I don't think there will be any difference other than the fact that a 6 braid will look cooler and be a bit thicker.  That is if you choose to expose the wires instead of adding sleeving to them.  
 
I love plussound's wires (also take a look at toxic cable's wires. They are also very very nice.) Very easy to work with and super high quality.  Is there a difference in sound?  I can't hear any but depends on who you ask. I like the look of silver cables so I almost always just buy silver plated copper or silver wire for the looks. (it only matters if you have bare cables though and don't use sleeving.)

 

[PETEREK]

And since we're sort of on the topic...do y'all see any benefit to doing a 6-wire vs.a 4-wire braid sonically.  It would be a bigger PITA working with more wires and those Hifiman connectors, so if the benefit doesn't significantly outweigh the hassle, then forgets it.


Also, anyone digging Plussounds' copper/silver/gold wire?  Worth the cost vs. staight-up copper (or plated copper for that matter).  I know it's debatable, but opinions still appreciated.

For the cost, I would always go with DHC nucleotide. Great wire and extreme flexibility.

 

[Bobo Fret]

Thanks guys.

 

[Bobo Fret]

Does the quality of the ground wires matter? 
 
My guess would no, except as it relates to aesthetics in a non-covered cable. 
 
Perhaps even worth getting something with better insulation than wire quality?
 
I'm almost positive I still have some of the cables I yanked out of my '76 Monte Carlo (first car) back in the early '80's in a box in my shed, which had a lovely "vintage" greenish patina last I looked.  I just knew I'd find a use for it someday.

 

[Zashoomin]

  Does the quality of the ground wires matter? 
 
My guess would no, except as it relates to aesthetics in a non-covered cable. 
 
Perhaps even worth getting something with better insulation than wire quality?
 
I'm almost positive I still have some of the cables I yanked out of my '76 Monte Carlo (first car) back in the early '80's in a box in my shed, which had a lovely "vintage" greenish patina last I looked.  I just knew I'd find a use for it someday.

yes it does.  Not just looks, but it also determines how easy or hard it is to work with, how long it will last, how flexible it is, how easy it will solder, etc...
 
better cables will almost always also come with better insulation as well.  
 
Down side is good cables cost money...sometimes a lot of money.  

 

[Bobo Fret]

Sure, I get all that, I was really talking in terms of sound quality. 
 
If it's nice and bendy, well insulated, and matches the size of "the good wire", can the ground be any old wire?
 
I've already purchased all my wire (24awg copper Litz from Plussound) for my first project.  I thought the price was insanely reasonable relative to some of the non-DIY stuff I own.  But if one could find a reasonable groundwire that could match characteristics with the "the good stuff", the cost could be brought down to ridiculous levels. 
 
That, being said, I expect I'm to lazy to delve that far into it.  Maybe, if I was doing longer run interconnects, power cables, etc.  For the 3-foot cables I'm doing for my headphones and (next) IEM's for my DAP/bedside amp - ain't worth the hassle.

 

[Bobo Fret]

Is there a generally accepted convention on how to wire the 3.5mm / 6.3mm jack?
 
Does the tip wire always terminate at the left headphone?  Vice versa?  Dealer's choice?

 

[buke9]

  Is there a generally accepted convention on how to wire the 3.5mm / 6.3mm jack?
 
Does the tip wire always terminate at the left headphone?  Vice versa?  Dealer's choice?

Yes tip L + sleeve R + barrel -. Unless you want to listen to your headphones backwards ; ) I hooked up a set backwards once and tested before final assembly (glad iI did). Listening to a song you know and hearing something coming for the opposite side is a weird feeling.

 

[Bobo Fret]

Well, I've been accused of having my head screwed on wrong, but I shall try to conform to convention
 
Thanks!!!

 

[Stillhart]

  Well, I've been accused of having my head screwed on wrong, but I shall try to conform to convention
 
Thanks!!!

 
Well keep in mind that if you're making a symmetrical cable (TRS on both ends, for something like a PM-3), it doesn't matter how you wire it as long as it's the same on both sides.

 

[buke9]

   
Well keep in mind that if you're making a symmetrical cable (TRS on both ends, for something like a PM-3), it doesn't matter how you wire it as long as it's the same on both sides.

I don't understand left is left and right is right. I don't have those phones but if you wire negative to the tip and whatever to the sleeve and ring you will be out of phase. Yes it will play but recordings were meant to be heard as the recording microphone diaphragm pushes in the speaker pushes out. Out of phase is fine for a sub connected to a speaker but for a speaker or headphones just sounds messed up IMHO.