I don't understand left is left and right is right. I don't have those phones but if you wire negative to the tip and whatever to the sleeve and ring you will be out of phase. Yes it will play but recordings were meant to be heard as the recording microphone diaphragm pushes in the speaker pushes out. Out of phase is fine for a sub connected to a speaker but for a speaker or headphones just sounds messed up IMHO.
What I'm saying is if your cable is essentially an extension cable because you have the same connector on both ends, just make sure you solder the same wires to the same connectors. It doesn't matter which is L/R/G if you just make sure they're the same on both sides.
I'm wondering if anyone has some wire suggestions. I just got some Grado 325es and I love everything about them except the PC Power Cord of a headphone cable it uses. I believe the 325e uses an 8-conductor wire, are there any very flexible options? My dream cable would be covered up got the splitter and then just braided to each side and terminated to the mini viable 3.5mm plug. Any thoughts would be awesome.
Hi so the gold-plated barrel surrounding the RCA centre pin has two parts snapped off on my connector.
Here's a pic to show what I'm talking about (two notches have been snapped off completely):
This has no effect on SQ right? I'm thinking the barrel is just to secure the centre pin in place or are there wires soldered to it?
Let me know, you guys probably know more than me
That part is the grounding sleeve. As long as it's still making contact with it's reciprocal connector, you'll be OK. All but one of those flanges could fall off and as long as the last one is in contact, it'll still be grounded. The configuration in which it is manufactured is to keep it snug in place. Two birds, one stone dealio.
So I guess you have to keep it rotated into a certain position for it to go on without banging into the broken off bits, huh?
What I'm saying is if your cable is essentially an extension cable because you have the same connector on both ends, just make sure you solder the same wires to the same connectors. It doesn't matter which is L/R/G if you just make sure they're the same on both sides.
Strange issue, strange question. I just shortened the cable on my Audio Technica AD-700 and put a new jack on. The joints are soldered and independently wrapped in electrical tape, as they should be. I heatshrunk it, and it works. I get sound of both sides reliably. BUT, voices are whisper quiet in 90 percent of songs I listen to. They sound underwater and far away. Some songs sound like they are stuttering in and out rapidly. This occurs across multiple sources, but is not noticeable on all songs.
Did I mess something up in the wiring? How? Did I ruin the drivers? I did use a multimeter, set to measure resistance to check for shorts as I soldered, during this I heard a loud pop occasionally from the headphones. Did this blow them out? I'm really confused guys.
It sounds like maybe you got them wired out of phase; that is the signal and ground wires switched on one driver. Does the sound seem diffuse, where you can't pinpoint where the performers are in the soundfield? Is there any bass, or is it MIA?
BTW, wiring the drivers out of phase does no harm at all.
It sounds like maybe you got them wired out of phase; that is the signal and ground wires switched on one driver. Does the sound seem diffuse, where you can't pinpoint where the performers are in the soundfield? Is there any bass, or is it MIA?
BTW, wiring the drivers out of phase does no harm at all.
The sound sounds strange. I'd say diffuse. I can't pinpoint anything, imaging is awful. Things sound distant. Voices are absent on most modern tracks. The phase issue makes sense. I heard nothing out of the ordinary in a frequency sweep. So I wired it wrong and I have to redo it? How do I figure out which is correct?
I just read your first post about using the meter and getting a pop. The meter sends a very small voltage to check for continuity. I'm sure that's what was causing the pop.
If you're still getting sound from each driver, then you probably didn't do any damage, but in the future, don't put the probes so current goes through the drivers.
To correct the problem you're having, you just need to switch the wires on one driver. That will put things back in phase. You can do it at the driver itself, or at the plug.
That part is the grounding sleeve. As long as it's still making contact with it's reciprocal connector, you'll be OK. All but one of those flanges could fall off and as long as the last one is in contact, it'll still be grounded. The configuration in which it is manufactured is to keep it snug in place. Two birds, one stone dealio.
So I guess you have to keep it rotated into a certain position for it to go on without banging into the broken off bits, huh?
Cheers thanks for detailed response, was thinking about getting it replaced but this saved me a few $$$
They were bent pretty badly (point of no return) when I got them so I just snapped them off fully, they still fit snugly!
They hold up pretty well regardless what position they are in, dem Neutrik connectors
Hmm, mine came with that cable. I can test it with my DMM later tonight if you still need info on it by then. That should at least tell you what connects to what.
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