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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread

Discussion in 'DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions' started by wje, Aug 10, 2013.
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  1. sennfan83261
    Thanks for the quick help. Actually, the connectors I bought are mono (TS) (Rean NYS226BG) because many of the after market balanced cables sold for newer Hifiman cans (3.5mm) use mono 3.5mm connectors. Based on your reply, when using mono 3.5mm connectors for these cans, the tips are L+/R+ and the sleeves are L-/R- based on your post. Looks simple enough, thanks for your help!
  2. Paladin79
    You may well be all right, and yes the tips are left and right plus, sleeves are left and right minus.
    sennfan83261 likes this.
  3. legopart
  4. chrisdrop
    After some significant weeping & gnashing of teeth (apparently I suck at soldering still), and with the sage guidance of @teknorob23 - I have finished my UP-OCC silver interconnects:

    20191109_180832.jpg 20191109_180756.jpg
  5. musicinmymind
    Both stock cables for PFE 232 were dead a year back and my favorite IEM was catching dust. Last week I used connectors from Stock cable and made my own custom one.
    Now rocking with 232 again, with sliver only cables it more balanced now.

    IMG-20191113-WA0007.jpg IMG-20191113-WA0003.jpg
    Slipmyster likes this.
  6. Feilong4
    I'm planning on making a female 4-pin XLR to banana plugs for a Hifiman Susvara. Are Mogami W2893 wires ok for that application? I don't want a speaker amp destroying anything.
  7. Incel
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
  8. legopart
    How do you gonna split it?
    You need something like this:
    https://www.redco.com/Gotham-GAC-2prflt.html looks smother
    or this https://www.redco.com/Mogami-W3106.html

    "I don't want a speaker amp destroying anything"
    what do you mean?

    - you have to check with voltmeter any continuity leakage between all of the connectors.
    - you can test on 100% Left side setting, if only the left side function (no leakage or problem to Righ)
    *then do the same for the Right side:

    I made a lots of mistakes past days with the soldering and connectors
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
  9. Feilong4
    I'm probably gonna have them in Paracord and then braid them. Should the Mogami W2893 wires still be ok? I've used those before so I'm more comfortable using those.

    >what do you mean?

    I fried an audio component from a speaker amp before so I'm being cautious just in case.

    I have made a few custom cables before though just wanted to know if I'd have to get different cables if I were to hook it up to a speaker amp.
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
  10. legopart
    You said 4pin xlr (balanced)
    now you say - speaker amp ...

    26 AWG
    Served Shield Approx. 73/0.12A
    Electrostatic Noise
    50mV Max.
    Electromagnetic Noise 0.15mV Max.
    Microphonics at 50K / Load 30m V Max.
    Voltage Breakdown Must withstand at DC 500V/15sec.
    Insulation Resistance 100000 M / × m Min. at DC 125V, 20°C

    from this site: https://daleproaudio.com/products/m...or-balanced-audio-cable-black-200-meter-spool

    If you gonna use it not with headphones amp then I don't know how much it qualified for it!
    I think that it will function fine without any problems but still not quality enough for speaker cable .

    My electrical knowledge is very low!
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
    Feilong4 likes this.
  11. BenTandBroken
    When making a dac to amp interconnect from TRRS to L+R 3 pin XLR I ran into a ground issue. The TRRS DAC side of the cable doesnt have anything to connect to the XLR ground pin.
    The issue is the dac and source on the TRRS side use switching power supplies (ungrounded 2 pole power plugs and one grounded but plugging it in doesn’t resolve the noise) and the amp/xlr side uses grounded 2 pole. As long as I use battery power on the dac/source side of things I’m okay, but god forbid i plug in the dac or source or anything else on this side of the chain to a charger. Noise City -from the switching power supply i assume.
    I have tested using a temporary dedicated ground setup I made and connecting anything on the dac side of the chain directly to the outlet ground fixes the noise, but I don’t currently have a dedicated grounding setup to always do this.
    So I’m just wondering what I can do for a permanent solution. I’m looking to see what y’all suggest. Did I just make a dumb mistake building the cable or maybe there’s another/better solution I’m overlooking. Thanks.

    ***EDIT: Found a solution for the Dac I’m using. (LH GOV2+ or any geekout dac with balanced output) AD907898-2864-4076-8C8A-D02D252718C1.jpeg
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
  12. Angelic
    I'м planning to make a cable for my HE6 headphones. But while looking for suitable 6.3mm and 3.5mm plugs, I saw that they were mostly made of gold-plated brass, and it's electrical conductivity is many times lower than that of copper or silver. Logically, whenever is quality of copper or even silver cable is high, the sound quality of the whole cable will be exact as the quality of the weakest link of the chain - the brass plug's electrical conductivity / purity. Does anyone know is there any gold or silver plated copper plug in the market?
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
  13. imas69
  14. Angelic
    Thank you for an advice. Just checked the specifications, and even these are expensive connectors, there is no pure copper, as : Main conductor: for Furutech: Nonmagnetic Rhodium-plated α (Alpha)Phosphor bronze conductor; for Eidolic - copper alloy (I’m reckoning that would be brass then?) plug chassis, layer of rhodium.
    So for above mentioned alloys we have (if electrical conductivity of Copper is 100%): 11% for Phospor Bronze, 28% for typical brass, 38,40% for Rhodium. Unfortunately, even the Aluminium has 61% of Copper's conductivity.
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
  15. Matthew420
    You also don’t encounter pure silver solder. Like solder, a connector has physical requirements that one can’t meet using pure copper or silver. You need rigidity/durability that can only be achieved by alloying.
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