DIY Cable Gallery!!
Jul 9, 2012 at 3:40 PM Post #9,616 of 16,306
Jul 9, 2012 at 3:44 PM Post #9,618 of 16,306
The pins are the same length, but the ground pin is a wider diameter. Thicker. 
 
Jul 9, 2012 at 6:24 PM Post #9,620 of 16,306
Quote:
Back again -- this time with a recable of my friend's Grado SR-80. Her stock cable was in shambles. She wanted to keep the cost down, so I used some materials I already had from earlier projects -- Mogami Star Quad 2534 and Switchcraft 3.5mm plug. Whole thing is sleeved in nylon multifilament. I'm satisfied with the y-split, but not thrilled with the results. And overall, the bottom 2/3rd of the cable is quite heavy with the un-stripped, sleeved Mogami with Switchcraft. And the thickness of the Mogami locked me into some design choices that I would have otherwise made differently.
 
Before:

 
After:

 
Very nice work. the 2534 is a great cable and I agree the raw wire is much better ergonomically than the regular 2534. But hey, she might need that extra ruggedness after the stunt she pull on those porr Sr60's. Maybe you should recommend a new headband that doesn't spin freely (most cause of problems is that free spin which twists the cable too much).
 
Jul 10, 2012 at 12:40 AM Post #9,621 of 16,306
New HE-6 cable:
 

 
This one was a bit of a pain - twisted pairs of 24AWG solid core rectangular OCC copper in a nylon jacket with Furutech XLR's.  Cable is a bit stiff and needs to be handled carefully not to bend too much (I didn't use and damping - maybe next time) but hopefully the OCC wire will be fairly durable.  Twisting the rectangular wire took many, many hours, not sure how that compares to braiding.
 
Jul 10, 2012 at 10:45 AM Post #9,622 of 16,306
After buying these DT220 for less than 20€, i had a couple of months a good time until the cable breaks close to the Left Side.
I used Mogami mini Quad, Rean/Neutrik plugs and some techflex. It's not a beauty but it was a lot of fun because the old Beyerdynamic design is sooo easy to disassembly :)
->
 

 
The mini Quad is still in one piece with equal lengths. Don't know why Beyerdynamic did solder the wire to this additional plate (pic 2)
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My first "real good" headphone... had to delete all mp3 files and encode all disks again (to flac
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)
 
Jul 10, 2012 at 5:08 PM Post #9,624 of 16,306
Quote:
Is shielding neccessary for headphone recables? 
 
Does it damage the signal quality at all if used? 

 
 
Nope, all of my cable and most DIY cables lack shielding. Look at ALO audio, I see no cables shielded there. Also most stock cables aren't shielded anyway.
 
Jul 10, 2012 at 6:28 PM Post #9,627 of 16,306
For a standard left/right/common headphone connection, there's no point to shielding: There's nothing for the shield to ground to.

You can ground a shield to the ground of the TRS, just don't tie it down on the other ends, just float it. That way any interference is only present in the return line and, better yet, at the end of it. You could put a ferrite bead at the plug to help deal with the EMI/RFI making it back to the plug as well if you were worried about that.

I prefer to just get a nice braid over dealing with shields though, so while that works, I've never felt the need to do it.
 
Jul 10, 2012 at 8:40 PM Post #9,629 of 16,306
Quote:
What Braided Sleeving should I be buying for 24-26 AWG cable? 1/4 or 1/8? 
 
I'm also considering buying these.
 
http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=CPN
 
For a 26 awg wire which size should I get?

 
 
3/16ths has worked for me in the past on 24. For 26 AWG cables I use 1/8th. So you kind of need to pick one or the other. 3/16 is too big for 26 AWG and 1/8 is too small for 24 AWG.
 
I wouldn't bother with those. The shipping price alone is ridiculous.
 
PS. Make sure you pick up nylon multifilament. Monofilament or PET is extremely stiff.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360217197985?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1054
 

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