DIY Cable Gallery!!
Mar 20, 2010 at 7:30 PM Post #5,401 of 16,312
Folks, I apologize if this is a little off-topic. I'm new to this tech and DIY sub-culture and I've heard this term used frequently. Would someone explain balanced to me in the context of cabling?
 
Mar 20, 2010 at 8:07 PM Post #5,403 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mediaogre /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Folks, I apologize if this is a little off-topic. I'm new to this tech and DIY sub-culture and I've heard this term used frequently. Would someone explain balanced to me in the context of cabling?


Balanced has very little if anything to do with cabling, its about how signals are sent to the headphones. SE or single ended, has two channels (L+ and R+) with a ground for each channel (L- and R-). The signals go through L+ and R+ and a ground signal is sent through L- and R-. The ground signal is supposed to be as close as possible to a "zero" or some referred value from the design of an amplifier. For example, if you have an amp with a dedicated earth ground, it should be zero, but if you have a portable amp, your amp's design may set "ground" to say 0.1 volt or whatever other voltage may be easiest to work with.

On a balanced set up, you have 4 channels (L+,L-, R+, R-). The signals still go through L+ and R+ like in the SE setup, BUT the crucial difference is that the exact same signal but inverted is sent through L- and R-. So lets take for example a binary code of 1101101001010.
R+ = 1101101001010
R- = 0010010110101

and another signal would go through L+ and L- in the same way. The idea is if any noise disrupts R+, it would disrupt R- just as well. Since the signals are inverted with respect to one another, when they get to the headphone, the noise in R+ will cancel with the noise in R-. So the cables will pick up noise, but it will get rejected in how the signal is transmitted to the headphones. In addition since the signals are inverted with respect to each other, you end up hearing the difference between the signals and you end up getting some inherent amplification from a balanced configuration.

Quote:

i'd like to see that, even insanely tight braids dont cross at 90 degrees (more like 75-80), close but no cigar. I would never use starquad either. if I cant run 2 twisted pairs in parallel and shield them from each other I tend to twist them VERY lightly, like once every 20-30cm the wires this way do not cross at all, but they do go parallel every now and then, which has its own effect, but is IMO the lesser of the 2 evils. all exposed wire cables are a trade off, you can trade one effect for slightly more of another. of course sometimes I o indeed do a round braid if practicality dictates this, but its not ideal


I think we're talking about two things here. You're stating that the braids cross as 75-80 degrees, I think you're talking about the point where the two wires criss cross with one another. What I'm referring two with the signals being perpendicular is something like in this picture:
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...les/KSC_04.jpg

Take a look at the black and take a look at the clear wires. Those are perpendicular to one another. In fact if you "debraid" the wires and allow the black wires and clear wires to go back together separately, what you get are two wires that are twisted together. So the "perfect solution" to the issue of two sets of two wires twisted tightly is actually a round quad-litz braid. In a quad litz braid you have 2 sets of wires, twisted tightly and connected together perpendicularly so that any interference from one channel will cancel out due to the nature of electromagnetic fields.

The angle you referred would be the angle between the signal and ground, which still exists in the twisted wiring method and any and all forms of starquad. If you take a look, starquad is very bad because the angle is very small (approx 15 degrees) so the signal and ground wires have more "contact" with one another. Versus say a VERY tight braid, you get a little bit more like 50 degrees. Then with a round quad litz braid, you get as you say something around 70 degrees. As far as I'm concerned, the round quad litz braid offers the best in terms of any geometry available out there with the exception of induction (starquads will always result in the least induction in wires because they will reduce the wire's diameter by the most).
 
Mar 20, 2010 at 10:10 PM Post #5,404 of 16,312
I fixed my issue, it was on the XLR end... I wired it incorrectly... so I found a document that shows me the wiring setup (which I apparently looked at before), and fixed my problem... here's the cable.
69ae1a3b.jpg
bbd3d92e.jpg
e083bf7f.jpg
 
Mar 21, 2010 at 1:04 AM Post #5,406 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by pdupiano /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How exactly did you wire the cable? At this point I'm now curious to see if your description of bleeding was actually just having the channels mixed up or if its something else entirely.


Well, being the COMPLETE NOOB that I am, I wired the Mini-XLR with Pins 1 & 2 as Left and Right, and Pin 3 as Ground. I didn't realize that Pin 1 was Ground with 2 & 3 being signal wires. Once I did that , all was well. What I was getting was sound all the time in Left & Right at different volumes when I faded from Left to Right in WinAmp. I could not isolate either channel completely. I ended up buying 25ft of Redco and then 50ft of Mogami, 5 Mini-XLR and 6 sets of Stereo and Mono Neutrik mini din plugs trying to get rid of this issue... and it was all mine from the start... so not that I have spare plugs and wire... I'm gonna make up a bunch of these...
 
Mar 21, 2010 at 2:42 AM Post #5,407 of 16,312
Well after a few months of reading this thred i thought i would actually contribute.

Here are some of the cables i've done. All for my 702's


This is the first one i made with much help from LingLing.

USES:
Mogami 2534
Viablue 3.5mm
Redco mini XLR
Black Techflex w/ white tracer

27092d1268027271-sold-custom-4-5-ft-akg-k702-k240-k271-cable-img_0242.jpg


Second one
USES:
Mogami 2524
Pailiccs 3.5mm
Switchraft mini XLR
Nylon multifilament sleeving

L1000847.jpg


Third One
USES:
Mogami 2534
Neutrik 3.5mm
Neutrik tiny XLR
Viablue neon sleeving

IMG_0258.jpg




Fourth One- My favorite and the one I primarily use
USES:
Mogami 2534
Viablue 3.5mm
Neutrik tiny XLR
Nylon multifilament sleeving

cfaa0eed.jpg

2212b467.jpg

a4d09632.jpg
 
Mar 21, 2010 at 6:18 AM Post #5,408 of 16,312
Nice work!

Where did you buy the Viablue sleeving?
 
Mar 21, 2010 at 6:29 AM Post #5,409 of 16,312
Thanks.

I got the viablue sleeving and 3.5mm plug at av-outlet.

they seem to have the best prices and is the only place i have seen viablue sleeving.
 
Mar 21, 2010 at 4:52 PM Post #5,410 of 16,312
Quote:

Originally Posted by Farnsworth /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks.

I got the viablue sleeving and 3.5mm plug at av-outlet.

they seem to have the best prices and is the only place i have seen viablue sleeving.



I have recently purchased the same sleeving + the red one and am so anxious, especially now that i've seen you result, to get my Canare starquad and finally start making a cable.
 

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