[WayTooCrazy]

HELP! Ok, I've been building cables using Redco TGS-QD Quad Microphone Cable. I'm using 3 of the wires (2xblue and 1xwhite) for the headphones. For the life of me, I can't keep them from bleeding sound between the channels. I've rebuilt the same cable 6 times. Then, grabbed a new cable (same as above) and put on new connectors (this is coming from an AKG K240) and still getting bleeding between the left & right channels.

I've built a similar cable using the Canare L-4E6S and have not had this issue at all. I don't think there is something that I'm doing incorrectly... has anyone else had this issue before?

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif HELP! Ok, I've been building cables using Redco TGS-QD Quad Microphone Cable. I'm using 3 of the wires (2xblue and 1xwhite) for the headphones. For the life of me, I can't keep them from bleeding sound between the channels. I've rebuilt the same cable 6 times. Then, grabbed a new cable (same as above) and put on new connectors (this is coming from an AKG K240) and still getting bleeding between the left & right channels. I've built a similar cable using the Canare L-4E6S and have not had this issue at all. I don't think there is something that I'm doing incorrectly... has anyone else had this issue before?

Have you checked continuity with a multimeter all the way through the plugs from each solder point to each solder point? At some point you may have connected something funny, or one of your connectors is bad. I have had mini plugs that came to me with a short already in them. A bad solder joint could be an issue, although you have built it so many times, that is probably not it. Just for gits and shiggles use the fourth wire for the ground to balance the signal (probably won't impact it, but why not give it a try).

 

[FraGGleR]

My favorite is Mogami W2893. Has starquad geometry, is very flexible, thin (but the conductors are plenty big enough), has a nice shield, comes in cool colors, each conductor is a different color making soldering to the right spot a breeze, and Mogami is more fun to say than Canare

The Viablue plug will function no better or worse than a $1 Neutrik. If you think it looks $9 better, then buy them and and enjoy looking at them. Your money, your cable.

If you are going to be using the multifilament nylon from momomomomomomo, then you are going to need some 3-1 heatshrink to secure it, as I don't know if it will fit into the Viablue, and I know it won't fit into the black Neutrik's. It is not easy to fit into the nickel Neutrik's with the large opening either.



Quote:

Originally Posted by pila405 /img/forum/go_quote.gif @momomo6789 - Thank you very much for the advice and the nylon suggestion - I guess I will use it . @dfkt - Why? It look really good [In terms of beauty] and also sturdy. Don't you think I cant have a good cable with this plug and this budget? look at it: http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/292...5mmviablue.jpg Oh, and guys, there is no Y split for the HD555. Can you also give me the exact model name of the Canare/Mogami cable, cause it is my first DIY cable so I know almost nothing in this area...^^'

 

[apatN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif HELP! Ok, I've been building cables using Redco TGS-QD Quad Microphone Cable. I'm using 3 of the wires (2xblue and 1xwhite) for the headphones. For the life of me, I can't keep them from bleeding sound between the channels. I've rebuilt the same cable 6 times. Then, grabbed a new cable (same as above) and put on new connectors (this is coming from an AKG K240) and still getting bleeding between the left & right channels. I've built a similar cable using the Canare L-4E6S and have not had this issue at all. I don't think there is something that I'm doing incorrectly... has anyone else had this issue before?

I dealt with some copper wire that would always short on me. I couldn't figure it out until I saw that the crimp on the connector actually cut through the cable and short the two conductors...

 

[WayTooCrazy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FraGGleR /img/forum/go_quote.gif Have you checked continuity with a multimeter all the way through the plugs from each solder point to each solder point? At some point you may have connected something funny, or one of your connectors is bad. I have had mini plugs that came to me with a short already in them. A bad solder joint could be an issue, although you have built it so many times, that is probably not it. Just for gits and shiggles use the fourth wire for the ground to balance the signal (probably won't impact it, but why not give it a try).

Quote:

Originally Posted by apatN /img/forum/go_quote.gif I dealt with some copper wire that would always short on me. I couldn't figure it out until I saw that the crimp on the connector actually cut through the cable and short the two conductors...

Unfortunately, I don't have a decent enough MultiMeter that lets me do a continuity on it... but I ended up picking up a "AA" battery holder from RatShack and attached alligator clips to it. I then attached that to one lead... and used the meter off of the other lead on the holder to the other end of the cable until I found the ones that gave me the 1.2v that I was looking for (rechargeable battery). I did find some crossed wires. So, I un-soldered everything and tried again (double checking as I went)... and everything was good from that point... now I take a listen with my AKGs... and AGAIN IT BLEEDS! DAMN YOU REDCO! Well, maybe the batch I had or something. I even went as far as pulling out all the conductors from the sleeving/jacket and EMI and braided them... and shoved it into techflex for testing, made new connections... and she still bleeds, but I liked the way it looked...

So, what is good cable for me to purchase that would be easy for me to either extract from it's sleeve, or singular conductors to do this kind of setup... 'cause I kinda like it, and its definitely more flexible with the jacket off. Is there any detriment to this type of setup?

 

[pila405]

This are the materials I came up with. What do you think about them?

Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables
Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables
Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables
Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables

Will it fit as HD555 non-splitting cable? Does all the materials match the purpose?

Thanks.

 

[apatN]

Yep, should work.

 

[.Sup]

Shortened my cable for portable use with mp3 player and replaced plug. Its a very complicated connector to work with but I managed.

 

[pila405]

Can you post your Sennheiser HD555 Cardas cable please? And tell us which materials you used?

 

[.Sup]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pila405 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can you post your Sennheiser HD555 Cardas cable please? And tell us which materials you used?

I bought that cable at Soloz Audio

Soloz Audio Home

 

[WayTooCrazy]

Very nice audio setup you got there... which Samsung monitor is that (I believe it's samsung anyway)?

 

[WayTooCrazy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Unfortunately, I don't have a decent enough MultiMeter that lets me do a continuity on it... but I ended up picking up a "AA" battery holder from RatShack and attached alligator clips to it. I then attached that to one lead... and used the meter off of the other lead on the holder to the other end of the cable until I found the ones that gave me the 1.2v that I was looking for (rechargeable battery). I did find some crossed wires. So, I un-soldered everything and tried again (double checking as I went)... and everything was good from that point... now I take a listen with my AKGs... and AGAIN IT BLEEDS! DAMN YOU REDCO! Well, maybe the batch I had or something. I even went as far as pulling out all the conductors from the sleeving/jacket and EMI and braided them... and shoved it into techflex for testing, made new connections... and she still bleeds, but I liked the way it looked... So, what is good cable for me to purchase that would be easy for me to either extract from it's sleeve, or singular conductors to do this kind of setup... 'cause I kinda like it, and its definitely more flexible with the jacket off. Is there any detriment to this type of setup?

Any idea on what GOOD singular wires I could use that are flexible, so that I can braid them for headphone cables? The Redco stuff is out of the question!

 

[.Sup]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Very nice audio setup you got there... which Samsung monitor is that (I believe it's samsung anyway)?

Samsung yes, T240. Its not that good honestly. My older 245B is much better and functional.

 

[qusp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WayTooCrazy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Unfortunately, I don't have a decent enough MultiMeter that lets me do a continuity on it... but I ended up picking up a "AA" battery holder from RatShack and attached alligator clips to it. I then attached that to one lead... and used the meter off of the other lead on the holder to the other end of the cable until I found the ones that gave me the 1.2v that I was looking for (rechargeable battery). I did find some crossed wires. So, I un-soldered everything and tried again (double checking as I went)... and everything was good from that point... now I take a listen with my AKGs... and AGAIN IT BLEEDS! DAMN YOU REDCO! Well, maybe the batch I had or something. I even went as far as pulling out all the conductors from the sleeving/jacket and EMI and braided them... and shoved it into techflex for testing, made new connections... and she still bleeds, but I liked the way it looked... [IM]http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv356/sid3w8z/TueMar16211941EDT2010.jpg[/IMG] So, what is good cable for me to purchase that would be easy for me to either extract from it's sleeve, or singular conductors to do this kind of setup... 'cause I kinda like it, and its definitely more flexible with the jacket off. Is there any detriment to this type of setup?

hmm, something needs to be done about this, perhaps a sticky or note on the first page. it is precisely BECAUSE you pulled the wires out and braided them all together that your stereo cable bleeds. think about it, you have taken 2 channels and woven them with one another, this causes crosstalk and i'm afraid this fashionable look is causing many a noob DIYER to have more crosstalk than is necessary. litz braiding is meant for single channel cables, if you want the braided look on a stereo cable, you will need to put up with it; or braid a 3 wire braid for each channel. covered like yours is, you would be better with dual twisted pair then if you want to get rid of crosstalk further, shield the pairs from each other. all components (apart from fully dual mono systems) have a small amount of crosstalk already, but with good gear it is negligible, however braiding a long stereo cable like that causes a considerable amount IME the result akin to a mild crossfeed if the cable is long enough. for shorter cables up to a couple if feet its sometimes still the most practical way to do it, but I only do it where i'm asked to, or if weight/thickness is a factor and I cannot sleeve it

 

[downsize]

Here's a couple of new cables i just made for a fellow Headfier.
Everything is UPOCC wire that has been Cryoed. Interconnects are pure silver, and the power cord is copper. Dialectric material is a mix of cotton weave, and also Teflon.