Are they similar or identical?
With shipping, Cetron 7236 will cost me $100.
I just found a local seller for Tung Sol 7236 but the price is $140.
Do you reckon it's a better choice than 5998? Woo audio is selling it for a whooping $325!!
.
Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
- Thread starter HeatFan12
- Start date
Are they similar or identical?
With shipping, Cetron 7236 will cost me $100.
I just found a local seller for Tung Sol 7236 but the price is $140.
Do you reckon it's a better choice than 5998? Woo audio is selling it for a whooping $325!!
.
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
Similar, from posts here and there. I only have the Tung sol& Sylvania 7236 & 5998 to compare, and am kinda wanting the Cetron, only for it's cool logo. I hope that $325 is for a pair.
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Slade01
1000+ Head-Fier
Yeah no. Save your cash for a next level amp or headphones at that point...
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
I just saw one go for $135 on ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Tung-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
and you can find them cheaper.
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Personally, I like the Cetron 7236 over the Tung Sol. But that's just me.
I only have one TungSol 7236 and although it tests quite well, maybe it's just a poor sample. I tried to tell you guys about these Cetrons back when the guy was selling them on Ebay for $25 each. But was anybody listening? Noooooooooo.
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
Tung Sol sound better with HD6xx than the Beyerdynamic, it was the Tung sol vanishing from the shelves that peaked my interest in the Cetron. That and the cool logo.Personally, I like the Cetron 7236 over the Tung Sol. But that's just me.
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JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
And then my left channel goes out...great, 
have an idea what it is, just don't have time to take it apart today. I'm thinking one of the LED lights I put under there went out. If that's not it I read to release any discharge left in the capacitors. o.O I have no idea how to do that, and it sounds dangerous. Already swapped RCA cables, and I'd be more upset if it was my DACs RCA output that went out, so will check on that before opening the Darkvoice.
have an idea what it is, just don't have time to take it apart today. I'm thinking one of the LED lights I put under there went out. If that's not it I read to release any discharge left in the capacitors. o.O I have no idea how to do that, and it sounds dangerous. Already swapped RCA cables, and I'd be more upset if it was my DACs RCA output that went out, so will check on that before opening the Darkvoice.
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
It was the capacitor! I had a few LED stored for backup. And was ready to redo the one side that was not lighting up.
I noticed that the one LED would not immediately go out, when switched off. It would slowly burn away. The left LED was just dead. So I switched it on and off to check out the slow burning. Seemed like half a minute or so till the light diminished. Switched out the tube just because....and boom. Booth lights on!
I'm back in business
Either I have a bad LED or I need to let the capacitor fully unload before rolling another tube. Time will tell.
I noticed that the one LED would not immediately go out, when switched off. It would slowly burn away. The left LED was just dead. So I switched it on and off to check out the slow burning. Seemed like half a minute or so till the light diminished. Switched out the tube just because....and boom. Booth lights on!
I'm back in business
Either I have a bad LED or I need to let the capacitor fully unload before rolling another tube. Time will tell.
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
It was the capacitor! I had a few LED stored for backup. And was ready to redo the one side that was not lighting up.
I noticed that the one LED would not immediately go out, when switched off. It would slowly burn away. The left LED was just dead. So I switched it on and off to check out the slow burning. Seemed like half a minute or so till the light diminished. Switched out the tube just because....and boom. Booth lights on!
I'm back in business
Either I have a bad LED or I need to let the capacitor fully unload before rolling another tube. Time will tell.
Wait...the problem occurred until you switched tubes, and then started working right? I'd suspect the tube, not the capacitor. And even before the capacitor, I'd suspect a resistor, as there's usually a bleeder resistor to drain off current once the amp is turned off. If that resistor is open or not performing at the correct value, the LED will stay on longer. An LED typically works....or doesn't. Not much in-between with those.
Methinks you be needin' a tube tester.
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
No it's not the tube, or I don't think it is. I did have to glue the base for it not to short out on me, crap, maybe that tube blew out a resistor then. I tried fixing that tube so it wouldn't snap so loud on me...( Smacking my head right now) that has to be it, because the one LED light takes forever to shut off, almost a whole minute. The left LED is just dead now ... Lol...wow...I shot myself in the foot in that oneWait...the problem occurred until you switched tubes, and then started working right? I'd suspect the tube, not the capacitor. And even before the capacitor, I'd suspect a resistor, as there's usually a bleeder resistor to drain off current once the amp is turned off. If that resistor is open or not performing at the correct value, the LED will stay on longer. An LED typically works....or doesn't. Not much in-between with those.
Methinks you be needin' a tube tester.
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
And then my left channel goes out...great,
To bleed small caps like that, get a 5 watt, 1k ohm resistor from Amazon or someplace, preferably a metal can type. Grip the outer can with a pair of insulated pliers or small channel-locks, then bend the wires of the resistor down so they are in position to touch the '+' terminal and the '-' terminal when you hold the resistor with the pliers. Then just touch the resistor wires to the cap terminals and hold for a few seconds (just keep your fingers off the resistor wires while they are in contact with the cap terminals). Bleed away. Again, should only take a few seconds, but always best to check with a DVM afterwards to make sure the voltage is at (or very near) zero. The resistor itself might get warm (or even hot) which is why it's best to hold it with pliers.
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JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
This will be my Hail Mary.. and what does it mean when you get shocked five times and still stick your hand in there ..To bleed small caps like that, get a 5 watt, 1k ohm resistor from Amazon or someplace, preferably a metal can type. Grip the outer can with a pair of insulated pliers or small channel-locks, then bend the wires of the resistor down so they are in position to touch the '+' terminal and the '-' terminal when you hold the resistor with the pliers. Then just touch the resistor wires to the cap terminals and hold for a few seconds (just keep your fingers off the resistor wires while they are in contact with the cap terminals). Bleed away. Again, should only take a few seconds, but always best to check with a DVM afterwards to make sure the voltage is at (or very near) zero. The resistor itself might get warm (or even hot) which is why it's best to hold it with pliers.
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
This will be my Hail Mary.. and what does it mean when you get shocked five times and still stick your hand in there ..
It means your body is getting conditioned. When you can grab a fully charged 1 farad, 600v cap with your bare fingers, you'll be ready to snatch the pebbles from my hand. LOL!!
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