[WyldRage]

I was thinking about it as well for my pair of HE-5LE, since my current amps are not up to the task (the Castanet neds all its power, and they still sound off). So Doc, would you recommend S.E.X. for orthos? Or the Stereomore?

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

I proposed the question regarding using the Stereomore for headphones on the Bottlehead forum. Doc mentioned that the Stereomore may be a little on the noisy side due to the AC heaters for headphones. Dropping a resistor in-line with the headphone output may help, but no one has tried it yet.
 

 

[Doc B.]

Also, IIRC you had mentioned doing this with the 45 version of the Stereomour over on the Bottlehead Forum. The SEX amp will put out pretty much the same power level as a Stereomour on 45s, probably even a 1/4W or so more than the S'mour. And indeed, it will likely be more quiet doing so.
 
Regarding the desire to use DHTs with headphones - the DC supply of the Paramount is part of what makes it more expensive (and of course it's a pair of monoblocks which is problematic with headphone connections), but it does make a really nice DHT based headphone amp because it is very quiet. I use a pair in 300B configuration for AKG K1000s, but the 2A3 version could be plenty of power for most cans. It's direct coupled between stages in 2A3 config, so it has a little bit better resolution.

 

[thewolf1976]

How would the Crack do with Yamaha HP1 Ortho's? Just discovered these cans, thinking about trying to grab a pair but don't know a lot about what type of amp is needed. I posted in the Ortho thread also.
 
Technical specifications:
Impedance: 150 ohms
Frequency Response: 20-20,000Hz
Diaphragm: 12 micron polyester
Magnet: sintered ferrite or anisotropic ferrite, 55mm Diameter
Sensitivity: 94dB/mW (Anisotropic model: 96dB/mW)
Rated input: 3w
Max input: 10w
Harmonic distortion: < 0.3% at 90dB SPL

 

[tdogzthmn]

It sounds great with most cans.  If the orthos require alot of current the crack should work very well.

 

[ironbut]

I had a pair of Yamaha ortho's back when they were new (they used to sell them in record stores in the late 70's or early 80's). They were very easy to drive for planar drivers. I think the Crack wouldn't have any trouble with those.
On the other hand, from the limited exposure that I've had with the Audeze and Fang's planars, they're a different beast altogether. I've only heard the LCD sound really good (I've heard them in about 4 different versions with more than 10 different amps)  with transformer output amps. Just like planar speakers, the amp driving them needs plenty of output power.
Also, both of the current production planars are what the audio press like to call "ruthlessly revealing". Maybe it's just me, but almost all the amps I've listened to them on sounded pretty bad and pairing them with the planars made it pretty obvious that the amp was the issue.
IMHO, anyone that wants to enjoy either of those headphones should be prepared climb up the amp ladder pretty far.

 

[Nebby]

Wood base still needs clear coating but I couldn't resist putting the amp together once the powder coater was done with the panel and bell. Speedball install tomorrow, should be interesting to hear the difference before and after (though I'm also changing output caps at the same time, so it won't really be comparable I guess..).
 

 

[mrarroyo]

Nice work there Nebby! Instead of clearcoat have you considered a wax finish?

 

[Nebby]

Speedball has been installed along with Erse output caps. The speedball definitely lowered the noise floor of the amp and improved the already good sound. I'm not very good at describing sound but it definitely sounds better to me!
 
Mrarroyo: I considered it, but given the heat-producing nature of the amp (it doesn't get hot-hot, but it does get warm) I opted not to use a wax finish.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

Nice work there Nebby! Opt for anything out of the ordinary on the inside?

 

[Nebby]

I didn't change too much:
TKD 100k pot
Erse MPX output caps
Neutrik chrome bushing jack
Powder coated plate and transformer bell
 
and of course:
Obnoxiously large aluminum volume knob
(still not sure if I want to stick with the black volume knob or go for the silver knob, I have both and have been swapping back and forth)

 

[Armaegis]

I would stick with the black knob for a solid two-tone look (and I would blacken the base of the big tube as well).

 

[Nebby]

The base of the tube I'm using now is black

 

[Armaegis]

Ah, well there you go then

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

That must be the stock tube in the photo. I got the same one with that tan fabric going around the base. I did some swapping and settled on a Sylvania 6AS7 for now.