Yeah, these are from an Ebay post.
I had guessed that a measurement of 100/52 did sound pretty weird, for example. Although I have yet to fully understand how to read these kinds of measurements (however not trustworthy they might be) in relation to the actual audible effects while using them in an amp.
Good stuff researching the 6SA7, I’m honestly not very familiar with the variant.
I tried a LOT of tubes and variants with the crack. Power and inputs. My personal favorite was the stock standards, the 12au7. Everyone varies, but I found magic in the tubes the crack was built around. If I could go back in time, I’d tell fresh tube me to spend less on tube rolling and more time on things like clean power, good source and signal chain, and some simple upgrades like a choke.
I shifted to the crackatwoa eventually, which let me keep using the tubes I bought, but I just didn’t need as many as I got.
I have a crack otl I did the 'ho lee' mod on with muse es caps and bradley allen resistors. Its great! But I wanted to know for those of you who eventually moved on from crack to better tube amps maybe with a similar sound, what did you go to? Thanks.
Since I'm very much new in the hobby I'm still a bit confused when it comes to rebranding. For example, how would I be able to understand whether the tube I have was made by Holland rather than someone else? Unfortunately I don't have the original package.
The country the tube is manufactured at is often written on the tube. These can wear off though but there are also usually markings on the tube that will tell you the date and factory the tube was made. Each manufacturer used their own code system. Phillips also owned/manufactured Amperex and Mullard tubes from the 60s onward. I forget the exact nomenclature but a little research on the web can give you the manufacturer codes for Phillips/Amperex/Mullard tubes.
As the others have alluded to the Phillips family of tubes was manufactured in many countries (Holland, England, US, India (under the BEL name, Japan (Matsushita), and others). There are differences in these but they tend to share a house sound (warm, dynamic, forward vocals, good staging). The codes can really tell you what you have, some research into the codes is worth it IMHO.
If any of you with an extra custom base that you'd sell, please PM me. I have a stock base that could be refinished but just looking for something different.
Yeah. I think they sold one more limited run of 15 units or so earlier this year after it was retired, but I don't know how likely it is to happen again.
Even more so now that Bottlehead made it very clear how they intend to retire from the business.
Sorry I'm just now responding to this as I just saw your post. I must preface that the Mainline is not completely stock as it uses Mundorf caps and also uses a CBS blackplate 5814 for the 12AU7 tube (5814 is a variant of the 12AU7). Both the Mundorf caps and the CBS 5814 made a big improvement in sound (warmer yet more transparent, more dynamic, more and better defined bass, more 3D soundstage). The Mogwai is currently running GE Fatboy 6CA7s for power tubes and a 1945 RCA smoked glass 6SL7 for the input tube which are an excellent match with the Mogwai.
Comparing the two amps the Mogwai tends to be the warmer sounding amp but choice of tubes makes a very big difference. The Mundorf caps and CBS 5814 tube adds a lot to the warmth of the Mainline. The Mogwai is also much more powerful, has more bass slam, and a bigger soundstage. I tend to prefer the Mogwai overall but the Mainline does have a midrange that is incredible. The ZMF Aeolus and Atticus in particular have incredible synergy with the Mainline. Sorry again for the much delayed response and hope this helps!
Sorry I'm just now responding to this as I just saw your post. I must preface that the Mainline is not completely stock as it uses Mundorf caps and also uses a CBS blackplate 5814 for the 12AU7 tube (5814 is a variant of the 12AU7). Both the Mundorf caps and the CBS 5814 made a big improvement in sound (warmer yet more transparent, more dynamic, more and better defined bass, more 3D soundstage). The Mogwai is currently running GE Fatboy 6CA7s for power tubes and a 1945 RCA smoked glass 6SL7 for the input tube which are an excellent match with the Mogwai.
Comparing the two amps the Mogwai tends to be the warmer sounding amp but choice of tubes makes a very big difference. The Mundorf caps and CBS 5814 tube adds a lot to the warmth of the Mainline. The Mogwai is also much more powerful, has more bass slam, and a bigger soundstage. I tend to prefer the Mogwai overall but the Mainline does have a midrange that is incredible. The ZMF Aeolus and Atticus in particular have incredible synergy with the Mainline. Sorry again for the much delayed response and hope this helps!
I might have to make some space for a Mainline kit soon. I have the Kenzie OG with an Atticus on the way at the moment and I’m really loving the slam and dynamics of it at the moment. Although I might try and build a Crack first just to warm up.
Yeah. I think they sold one more limited run of 15 units or so earlier this year after it was retired, but I don't know how likely it is to happen again.
Even more so now that Bottlehead made it very clear how they intend to retire from the business.
hm dang, building a SEX right now might have to order a Mainline sooner than anticipated to round out my BH collection , still down that i didnt get to build a crackatwoa
I might have to make some space for a Mainline kit soon. I have the Kenzie OG with an Atticus on the way at the moment and I’m really loving the slam and dynamics of it at the moment. Although I might try and build a Crack first just to warm up.
I absolutely recommend trying a Crack (especially with Speedball) and Mainline. Both go with ZMFs and other high impedance phones like peanut butter and jelly.
My main reason for getting a Mainline initially was to get a transformer-coupled tube amp that I could run my planers with. The Mainline while capable of running efficient planers is not really powerful enough to power less efficient planers at more than low to moderate listening levels. It is excellent with both low and high impedance dynamic phones however.
That's where the Mogwai comes in. It powers all phones I have tried with it whether they are low or high impedance, efficient or power hungry, or dynamic or planar drivers with extreme power and grace.
I recommend the Crack because it is just so much fun to listen to with high impedance cans. It really gets you lost in the music. The Mainline on the other hand is a more refined listen. It's more accurate and more detailed while still retaining the musicality that Bottlehead is known for. Both have their place and are worthy of one's time both from a building and listening experience.
I bet the Atticus and Kenzie combo is incredible btw. Congrats!
I absolutely recommend trying a Crack (especially with Speedball) and Mainline. Both go with ZMFs and other high impedance phones like peanut butter and jelly.
My main reason for getting a Mainline initially was to get a transformer-coupled tube amp that I could run my planers with. The Mainline while capable of running efficient planers is not really powerful enough to power less efficient planers at more than low to moderate listening levels. It is excellent with both low and high impedance dynamic phones however.
That's where the Mogwai comes in. It powers all phones I have tried with it whether they are low or high impedance, efficient or power hungry, or dynamic or planar drivers with extreme power and grace.
I recommend the Crack because it is just so much fun to listen to with high impedance cans. It really gets you lost in the music. The Mainline on the other hand is a more refined listen. It's more accurate and more detailed while still retaining the musicality that Bottlehead is known for. Both have their place and are worthy of one's time both from a building and listening experience.
I bet the Atticus and Kenzie combo is incredible btw. Congrats!
I can’t wait either. I’m definitely satisfied with the Kenzie’s power output for my LCD-2 so I might not even need a Mainline if I just end up having too much fun with the Crack.
Maybe save that money for one of the 300B speaker amps.
Since I'm very much new in the hobby I'm still a bit confused when it comes to rebranding. For example, how would I be able to understand whether the tube I have was made by Holland rather than someone else? Unfortunately I don't have the original package.
Sadly Some tubes have counterfeit markings. Including ones used in the Crack. The rarer they are - the more likely to be fake. The other issue is "NOS" tubes in general. As if thats enough on its own. Most of the stuff I see doesn't come with any test data - just some glad handed "they sound great, way better than any new tubes", and so on. You get tests when the vendor is honest or the results are stellar.
I did a lot of tube rolling in the 90's and the prices compared to now are insane. All I wanted recently is a good tested TungSol 5998. Bought 2 in the past 15 months, and they were all crap - not NOS - just Old Stock.
Sorry to be a downer, It's hard NOT to get ripped off by poor quality or insane prices - in the NOS world.
I've had my fair share of experiences where I buy tubes that ostensibly test well on testing hardware, but the seller clearly never tested them in an actual amp, because they had horrible ringing and/or microphonics once they got to my door. I'm sure electrically they were superb, but sonically they were just garbage.
Ten years ago there were only a handful of options for high z cans.
2023 it's a buyer's market and consumers are spoilt for choice. Crack is more a lifestyle product now imo. It's a fantastic project has it's own sound but no longer the value proposition it once was.
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, still down that i didnt get to build a crackatwoa 
