Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Feb 7, 2021 at 1:45 AM Post #10,651 of 12,335
Let me know what you think of the mundorf caps; I assume you're replacing the 100uf? I'm considering those, but I've heard they're a bit warm, so I'm also looking at some clarity cap CSA that are on sale.

I love BH, and nothing that's happened will stop my love for them, but I do get frustrated when I want to work on the amp with limited time and end up having to stop for delays from missing or faulty parts. The screws werent a big deal for me either, I got some the next day at Home Depot, but waiting on a fuse took a couple days, and now I'm waiting on the missing rectifiers. I'm super slow, so these delays just make things take longer and longer.


Too bad, sorry to hear so many troubles. I guess probably it's a good idea to check parts on the checklist upon arrival, that way even there are missings a 2nd shipment should solve it all, but then at that time people probably don't know what these parts are for.

BH was probably in a rush to get those kits out after the Black Friday, haha. Hopefully they will send you the missings asap.
 
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Feb 7, 2021 at 1:35 PM Post #10,652 of 12,335
Let me know what you think of the mundorf caps; I assume you're replacing the 100uf? I'm considering those, but I've heard they're a bit warm, so I'm also looking at some clarity cap CSA that are on sale.

I love BH, and nothing that's happened will stop my love for them, but I do get frustrated when I want to work on the amp with limited time and end up having to stop for delays from missing or faulty parts. The screws werent a big deal for me either, I got some the next day at Home Depot, but waiting on a fuse took a couple days, and now I'm waiting on the missing rectifiers. I'm super slow, so these delays just make things take longer and longer.

I added both the 100uf and the .1uf caps to the low current board. The caps did add slight bit of warmth, however I think the increased clarity added by the Two-Quiet made up for it. It certainly sounds cleaner, more articulate than any Crack I've ever heard.
 

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Feb 11, 2021 at 8:16 PM Post #10,653 of 12,335
My Crack with Speedball is shipping! Hopefully I can finish rebuilding my Darkvoice before it arrives... so at least I have something to listen to.
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 9:18 PM Post #10,655 of 12,335
My Crack with Speedball is shipping! Hopefully I can finish rebuilding my Darkvoice before it arrives... so at least I have something to listen to.

I had a darkvoice while my crack was broken for a couple months before repair. Great amp, that darkvoice! Once I got the crack going again, though, I had to say goodbye to it.
 
Feb 11, 2021 at 10:02 PM Post #10,656 of 12,335
I added both the 100uf and the .1uf caps to the low current board. The caps did add slight bit of warmth, however I think the increased clarity added by the Two-Quiet made up for it. It certainly sounds cleaner, more articulate than any Crack I've ever heard.
I have Munsdorf Evo Oil caps as well. They really add a lot of clarity and sound stage. I love them.
 
Feb 14, 2021 at 8:50 PM Post #10,657 of 12,335
Who has paired both the Bendix 6080 and Tung Sol 5998 with their Crack?

Which did you prefer and why?

I have a Bendix 6080 incoming, and also considering to get a 5998 pair eventually.
 
Feb 14, 2021 at 8:58 PM Post #10,658 of 12,335
I got a pre-made Crack + speedball coming my way soon, should be hear next week. Looking forward to it.

Will be comparing it to my CMA12 and Figaro 339.
Let us know! The LF339 and Crack (and Crackatwoa) were my top picks for an OTL amp to try out with the ZMF Aeolus, as you know from the other thread... On @DenverW 's (and others') recommendation actually, I ordered a Crack kit to build myself. Along with a solder and all the gear :D Looking forward to the whole process!
 
Feb 14, 2021 at 9:38 PM Post #10,659 of 12,335
Proud crack and SB owner here, wanna ask wheres the best place to get your hands on some munsdorf caps and which one I should be buying for the crack?

Also if any crackatwoa owners here and shed some light on whether it's a noticeable upgrade from the crack plus sb? I find very little review and impressions of the crackatwoa hence the ask . Cheers
 
Feb 15, 2021 at 7:56 AM Post #10,660 of 12,335
Proud crack and SB owner here, wanna ask wheres the best place to get your hands on some munsdorf caps and which one I should be buying for the crack?

Also if any crackatwoa owners here and shed some light on whether it's a noticeable upgrade from the crack plus sb? I find very little review and impressions of the crackatwoa hence the ask . Cheers

I own the C2A, never had a Crack (no pun intended) but from what I can tell you that the crackatwoa has the shunt regulator tubes, which means that the amp has a better channel separation. And of course, a larger chassis. Other members who had a Crack experience might have better answers than mine.
 
Feb 18, 2021 at 7:25 PM Post #10,661 of 12,335
My BHC has been in open heart surgery for the last couple weeks. I did a comparison between using the regulator from my last post and a more traditional CRCLC power supply. I decided to stick with the CRCLC for a few reasons:

1. The sound differences between the two PSU implementations were very minor (if any)... minor enough to justfiy not using the regulator. I can save the regulator for another project now.
2. CRCLC is running a bit cooler. There is a lot of heat dissipated in the "R" of the CRCLC, and the heat seems to stay more localized to that corner vs the giant regulator heatsink I had in there before.
3. I didn't like the way the regulator was mounted. I couldn't figure out a way to mount that giant heatsink to the top plate, and it was just putting stress on the mosfet pins.
4. Theoretically, I should be able to better hear the difference between rectifiers as well as the SS plugin now. Will do listening tests later.

B+ ranges from 165V - 200V depending on the rectifier plugged in, which is all within the spec of the original design. I can still use the SS rectifier plug-in if I want.

Other changes include:
1. Putting back the 100uF film cap as the last PSU cap.
2. Wiring the 12AU7 socket in series with the 6J5 sockets. I can now use either the 6J5's or a 12AU7.

It sounds dang good and is dead silent. I'm done for now... it's going back to the office. I'm tired of listening to my earbuds at work!

IMG_20210218_155128.jpgIMG_20210218_155136.jpgIMG_20210218_155259.jpgIMG_20210218_155346.jpg
 
Feb 18, 2021 at 7:35 PM Post #10,662 of 12,335
My BHC has been in open heart surgery for the last couple weeks. I did a comparison between using the regulator from my last post and a more traditional CRCLC power supply. I decided to stick with the CRCLC for a few reasons:

1. The sound differences between the two PSU implementations were very minor (if any)... minor enough to justfiy not using the regulator. I can save the regulator for another project now.
2. CRCLC is running a bit cooler. There is a lot of heat dissipated in the "R" of the CRCLC, and the heat seems to stay more localized to that corner vs the giant regulator heatsink I had in there before.
3. I didn't like the way the regulator was mounted. I couldn't figure out a way to mount that giant heatsink to the top plate, and it was just putting stress on the mosfet pins.
4. Theoretically, I should be able to better hear the difference between rectifiers as well as the SS plugin now. Will do listening tests later.

B+ ranges from 165V - 200V depending on the rectifier plugged in, which is all within the spec of the original design. I can still use the SS rectifier plug-in if I want.

Other changes include:
1. Putting back the 100uF film cap as the last PSU cap.
2. Wiring the 12AU7 socket in series with the 6J5 sockets. I can now use either the 6J5's or a 12AU7.

It sounds dang good and is dead silent. I'm done for now... it's going back to the office. I'm tired of listening to my earbuds at work!

IMG_20210218_155128.jpgIMG_20210218_155136.jpgIMG_20210218_155259.jpgIMG_20210218_155346.jpg
This is a mammoth
 
Feb 18, 2021 at 8:23 PM Post #10,664 of 12,335
My BHC has been in open heart surgery for the last couple weeks. I did a comparison between using the regulator from my last post and a more traditional CRCLC power supply. I decided to stick with the CRCLC for a few reasons:

1. The sound differences between the two PSU implementations were very minor (if any)... minor enough to justfiy not using the regulator. I can save the regulator for another project now.
2. CRCLC is running a bit cooler. There is a lot of heat dissipated in the "R" of the CRCLC, and the heat seems to stay more localized to that corner vs the giant regulator heatsink I had in there before.
3. I didn't like the way the regulator was mounted. I couldn't figure out a way to mount that giant heatsink to the top plate, and it was just putting stress on the mosfet pins.
4. Theoretically, I should be able to better hear the difference between rectifiers as well as the SS plugin now. Will do listening tests later.

B+ ranges from 165V - 200V depending on the rectifier plugged in, which is all within the spec of the original design. I can still use the SS rectifier plug-in if I want.

Other changes include:
1. Putting back the 100uF film cap as the last PSU cap.
2. Wiring the 12AU7 socket in series with the 6J5 sockets. I can now use either the 6J5's or a 12AU7.

It sounds dang good and is dead silent. I'm done for now... it's going back to the office. I'm tired of listening to my earbuds at work!

IMG_20210218_155128.jpgIMG_20210218_155136.jpgIMG_20210218_155259.jpgIMG_20210218_155346.jpg
Honey, I shrunk the Pendant?...
 
Feb 18, 2021 at 8:49 PM Post #10,665 of 12,335
Consider water cooling for the mosfet...LOL

Don't give me any ideas! I think I'll leave the water cooling to the PCs for now.

Honey, I shrunk the Pendant?...

Funny you mention that, I'm actually building out an EL84-based amp (like the pendant) right now. We'll see how it turns out.
 

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