Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Apr 12, 2017 at 5:31 PM Post #8,416 of 12,346
 
  NO actually the CRACK got smoked by a lightning strike:)Long story short my site trailer at the job site got strike  by a lightning awhile back.

Yikes.

The really bad thing is the insurance doesn't want to pay for any personal belongings because the trailer is only insured for limited business coverage.F@#ing account dept. man i wish i knew...
 
Apr 12, 2017 at 7:11 PM Post #8,417 of 12,346
  The really bad thing is the insurance doesn't want to pay for any personal belongings because the trailer is only insured for limited business coverage.F@#ing account dept. man i wish i knew...

Please do not take this question the wrong way. With the transformer being bad the lightning obviously came through the power and not the signal input. Are the wires to the transformer burned? Is it pretty obvious the transformer was wiped out? I have done a ton of work on lightning and power surge damage so I was just curious how you determined the transformer is bad. 
 
Do you still  have the amp and can you take a couple photos?
 
I am wanting to help if I can but I would need a little info first. 
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 3:58 PM Post #8,418 of 12,346
 
  The really bad thing is the insurance doesn't want to pay for any personal belongings because the trailer is only insured for limited business coverage.F@#ing account dept. man i wish i knew...

Please do not take this question the wrong way. With the transformer being bad the lightning obviously came through the power and not the signal input. Are the wires to the transformer burned? Is it pretty obvious the transformer was wiped out? I have done a ton of work on lightning and power surge damage so I was just curious how you determined the transformer is bad. 
 
Do you still  have the amp and can you take a couple photos?
 
I am wanting to help if I can but I would need a little info first. 

Yes the cable/Tranny are burnt as far as i can see the only salvageable parts is the wood case and the top plate.
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 4:19 PM Post #8,419 of 12,346
  Yes the cable/Tranny are burnt as far as i can see the only salvageable parts is the wood case and the top plate.

The majority of other parts are not super expensive, if you can get another transformer from Bottlehead I could repair or replace most anything else pretty easily. I am going to have factory pot, 1/4 inch jack, tube sockets wiring etc. left after my build. I will have the original cabinet and top plates and those do not help you much. Shipping it back and forth between Canada and the states would be troublesome but it could be done. I can even offer to send you kit parts I do not use no charge but the transformer is the kicker.
 
I received a Crack kit yesterday but`have not so much as opened the box, I hope to check it out this weekend in between cable builds. There could be even more parts I could send you in an attempt to help out.
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 8:27 PM Post #8,420 of 12,346
 
  Yes the cable/Tranny are burnt as far as i can see the only salvageable parts is the wood case and the top plate.

The majority of other parts are not super expensive, if you can get another transformer from Bottlehead I could repair or replace most anything else pretty easily. I am going to have factory pot, 1/4 inch jack, tube sockets wiring etc. left after my build. I will have the original cabinet and top plates and those do not help you much. Shipping it back and forth between Canada and the states would be troublesome but it could be done. I can even offer to send you kit parts I do not use no charge but the transformer is the kicker.
 
I received a Crack kit yesterday but`have not so much as opened the box, I hope to check it out this weekend in between cable builds. There could be even more parts I could send you in an attempt to help out.

WOW!That is so nice of you
beerchug.gif
but thank you if i  build a next amp it would be different from the crack.I have an idea of using a rectifier tube and all my existing tubes so i don't need to do more costly tube rolling.congrats for your amp! 
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 8:49 PM Post #8,421 of 12,346
  WOW!That is so nice of you
beerchug.gif
but thank you if i  build a next amp it would be different from the crack.I have an idea of using a rectifier tube and all my existing tubes so i don't need to do more costly tube rolling.congrats for your amp! 

You have always been most kind and if I could help I would.
I ran into a slight snag with the control knobs for mine, they were to be turned from solid copper but the young man who would have done the work finally admitted he probably lacked the experience so I had already purchased bakelite knobs from the 20's or 30's that will add appeal to the finished product. My biggest holdup right now is a set of metal circle cutters that I will use for the tube sockets and VU meters. I will need to cut those holes before I start adding a patina to the copper. At least now I have the top plate I can match against the copper to insure my cuts are the correct sizes. I plan to mount the front and back plate with brass screws and eventually I will have to decide between solid brass or brass plated. Tube sockets will be mounted with copper rivets. I get cautious when I start to use dissimilar metals, I have had enough education in specific fields to know what I do not know. I hope that makes sense lol.
 
My thanks go out to the folks who mentioned the proper top plate size, it allowed me to get the perfect copper plate for my project, it will line up perfectly!
Instead of the thin slots I have something else in mind for ventilation, but I should figure out the pattern soon.
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 9:11 PM Post #8,423 of 12,346
Same here sound like it will be cool if all goes well.
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 9:36 PM Post #8,424 of 12,346
Same here sound like it will be cool if all goes well.

I have an experienced woodworker doing my cabinets, I will do final finish. The oak I purchased is nearly an inch thick, a foot wide, and forty-five inches long. I have some tools but not the 30 years experience doing such things. The copper plate I purchased is perfect for my needs, There is a slight weight difference (cough) between it and the original plate but I am do not plan on carrying this amp around with me.
The top plate in copper is like two pounds and it will not change much because I am only cutting three openings there. It should look cool and honestly the two round holes should not be an issue, the square opening will be a little tougher but I suspect the transformer will hide any deviations and I have two shots at this. I plan to keep the prettiest one.
 
Apr 13, 2017 at 9:54 PM Post #8,425 of 12,346
  I can't wait to see your finished amp.I just finished installing the choke in my amp the best $20 i've spent for this kit it makes the amp background quieter.

I hesitate to say what I have spent so far on my modifications of two kits and I am not exactly done yet. I do plan to have added room inside the cabinets for any changes I make. The one I keep for myself may well have a row of brass toggle switches on one side with appropriate old school bulbs but I have not thought that all the way through yet. They may end up on the matching headphone stand I plan to build with a cable connecting it to the amp. I may hide a dac there as well. I do not want anything real modern looking noticeably hooking right to the amp. 
 
There is suddenly a new listing for a Crack on Ebay, $875 with walnut base. Pretty looking but I do believe the top plate is spray painted. I can definitely claim mine will be professionally assembled if I post one there but I have seen the Mundorf EVO caps for sale and $150 for those seems a little pricey but it has been a few weeks since I checked some out. Mine will most likely have dual Alps pots but those are one of three brands I will be testing. TKD makes a good volume pot but I always wonder when I see them selling for $100 out of Hong Kong, same with Alps when they are $10 out of China. I prefer going through known distributors for some parts.
 
Apr 14, 2017 at 3:28 PM Post #8,426 of 12,346
Has anyone ran 50-70uF value for the output caps? How'd it sound? I understand 100uF is recommended, but anywhere from half to twice the stock value should be sufficient. Experimentation is in order for those who wish to do so? That is, without hurting anything correct? I'm curious to try a few values of different caps I have, and the total would be 70uF for each channel. 
 
Happy listening,
 
-T
 
Edit:
Confirmed it is OK to go half to twice the value. What about going past that?
 
Apr 14, 2017 at 7:21 PM Post #8,428 of 12,346
  Look up the exact calculations in the Output Capacitor Upgrading Questions thread on the BH forum.
 
I'm using 90uF with great effect. 

Pardon my lack of knowledge on this subject but are those the capacitors use the Mundorf  EVO 100 ufd caps for? If so going to a different value results in pretty good savings sometimes at the same voltage rating it would appear. That in itself looks like a good reason to try the other values.
 
Apr 14, 2017 at 7:45 PM Post #8,429 of 12,346
Just letting everyone know that the first big batch of sale Crack kits shipped out this afternoon. The rest will follow early next week. Thanks to everyone who ordered, we appreciate the support!
 
Apr 14, 2017 at 8:47 PM Post #8,430 of 12,346
Just letting everyone know that the first big batch of sale Crack kits shipped out this afternoon. The rest will follow early next week. Thanks to everyone who ordered, we appreciate the support!

Thank you Doc!
 

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