[Maxhawk]

   
That's just for the speedball upgrade right?
 
I would feel at ease if there was a simple video of it being added with instructions & tips.
I seen a few videos for assembling the Bottlehead, but nothing on the speedball upgrade.

Yes that's just for the speedball. When you purchase the speedball kit, it comes with a nice PDF installation guide with lots of detailed pictures and instructions showing you how to build the boards and make the connections. You do need to be good with a soldering iron, and the more difficult part I think will be removal of installed resistors and wires since they'll likely be wrapped around eyelets and soldered in place. Solder wick will help remove the solder but you have to be careful not to overheat things.
 
Here's are a couple of random image I found on the internet, one original and one with the speedball kit installed:
 
 

 

[Thenewguy007]

So the Speedball is those 4 chips/boards & extra two capacitors along with the long black things on the chips.

 

[Doc B.]

   the more difficult part I think will be removal of installed resistors and wires since they'll likely be wrapped around eyelets and soldered in place. Solder wick will help remove the solder but you have to be careful not to overheat things.

Nah, just cut the suckers out and install the new stuff. I think builders inadvertently mess up more stuff trying to desolder and unwrap leaded components than they do when just cutting out the old part and soldering in the new one.

 

[JamieMcC]

I don't know why but untidy braiding really bugs me. Its pretty quick and easy to do a 3 strand braid once you know how.
 

 

[adydula]

Put the three wires in a drill chuck, hold the other end with pliers or in a vise, turn on drill slowly and you will get very neat evenly spaced braids etc....
 
Alex

 

[Maxhawk]

  So the Speedball is those 4 chips/boards & extra two capacitors along with the long black things on the chips.

 
The 2 caps are the original ones, simply bent over 90 degrees to give clearance for the boards. Those "long black things" are heat sinks. The large 3K resistors are replaced by the board with the 2 heat sinks. There are two smaller resistors soldered directly to the terminal strip at the bottom. Those are each replaced by a small board.
 
And Doc's advice is good. If you're not super handy with a soldering iron, cut the leads and solder to the stubs left behind.

 

[Armaegis]

  Nah, just cut the suckers out and install the new stuff. I think builders inadvertently mess up more stuff trying to desolder and unwrap leaded components than they do when just cutting out the old part and soldering in the new one.

 
The second and third time I built a Crack, I left a little more lead space on the resistors that would be replaced by Speedball, making them easier to cut out. Similarly, I installed the caps laying down and spaced out further, so I wouldn't have to bend them later.
 
The very first time I installed the Speedball, I had to use a dremel cutting disk to get the big cast resistors out because it was too tight to fit in some wire cutters.

 

[adydula]

Ha!!
 
I just used solder wick and got them out np...
 
A.

 

[adydula]

Lately I found a RCA 6AS7G and a old NOS 5963 Sylvania that have been just magical to me... at a very low cost compared to the :RARE priced out of this world stuff..
 
A.

 

[JustinBieber]

Got the carbon fiber wrap in. I used 3M 1080 wrap. It's very easy to work with as long as you have a heat gun. Hair dryers take way too long to heat it up.
 
 
 

 

[Mich4lle]

Got the carbon fiber wrap in. I used 3M 1080 wrap. It's very easy to work with as long as you have a heat gun. Hair dryers take way too long to heat it up.


 

I have the same soldering iron. That looks pretty cool. What does your base look like? Or if you haven't done it yet, what plans do you have for it? And are you planning to listen to Justin Beiber on it?

 

[moriez]

  I rolled in this Valvo E80CC but it's too smooth for my taste and prefer the CBS Hytron 5814 to it. Basically a good bit more air and detail to be heard. If there's anyone who wants to swap one of his tubes or wants to buy the Valvo off me send a PM. 

 
Just a little follow up. The Valvo is actually quite a suitable tube when listening with my HD540 which has a tendency to sound bright. Going to hold on to it.
 
 
Quote:

  Looks like the Cracks gone to rehab and come out the other end a changed amp

 
Jamie, any plans of building yourself one of these Crack-a-two-a's?
 
Or two? (hint ^^)

 

[JamieMcC]

  Got the carbon fiber wrap in. I used 3M 1080 wrap. It's very easy to work with as long as you have a heat gun. Hair dryers take way too long to heat it up.
 
 
 

Nice job, using vinyl wrap opens up a lot of great finish options. I like the look a lot and painting the 12au7 socket clip and screws is a nice detail  Its also easy to mount the retaining clip from underneath.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

   
Jamie, any plans of building yourself one of these Crack-a-two-a's?
 
Or two? (hint ^^)

 
Hi Maurice
 
Not at the moment but maybe in the future. Things are a little hectic for me the moment I have a couple of other projects under way another Pass ACA amp build and a little ZMR 250 fpv racer due to start (waiting for parts) which I need to finish before taking anything else on. Add into the mix my other half is expecting due in September so spare time will be in short supply for the foreseeable future.

 

[Armaegis]

  Got the carbon fiber wrap in. I used 3M 1080 wrap. It's very easy to work with as long as you have a heat gun. Hair dryers take way too long to heat it up.
 

 
Isn't carbon wrap usually shinier? Or is it just the angle/lighting?

 

[JustinBieber]

Whoops, double post!