Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Jul 8, 2010 at 3:07 PM Post #196 of 11,048

HiGHFLYiN9

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Quote:
I've never had good results with the one step stuff on any kind of wood. It's kind of surprising that it dominates the shelves at the home improvement stores. If you want to take another shot at it some day we do sell wood base kits by themselves.


I may take you up on that offer at some point Doc, I'll have to see how satisfied I am once the final coat is applied.
 
Jul 9, 2010 at 4:48 PM Post #197 of 11,048

maverickronin

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I'm considering one of these for my HD650s.  Could anyone with the relevant experience answer a few questions for me?  How does it compare to prebuilt tube amps in the same price range (LD MKIII, Darkvoice 336, etc)?  Is it a 'tube-y' tube amp, and in what way?  Liquid midrange? Syrupy? Rolled off bass and treble?  I looking for liquid mids, a drizzling of syrup, and all the bass I can get.
 
Thank you in advance.
 
Jul 15, 2010 at 8:58 AM Post #200 of 11,048

Todd R

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Quote:
Is there beneficial of using impedance adapter for low impedance hp...? ie... 150ohms onwards...
 
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/IMPEDANCE-RESISTANCE-ADAPTOR-3-5MM-6-35MM-PLUG-/300338066075?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ed8b329b
 
 
 

Since that is something aimed at the ER-4, it's simply an in line resistor. I think a true impedance matching would take some type of transformer or a circuit change as discussed here. Even though I started the thread, I haven't made any changes to my Crack yet to see how well it might work.
 
 
Jul 15, 2010 at 10:01 AM Post #201 of 11,048

komebudu

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Thx Todd,
 
Perhaps Bottlehead will consider in the future...selling crack with different coupling caps value ...
wink_face.gif

 
Jul 15, 2010 at 1:55 PM Post #203 of 11,048

druelle

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Just received notice that my Crack shipped today. Now begins the painful process known as waiting...
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 12:28 PM Post #205 of 11,048

druelle

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While I'm waiting for it to arrive, any tips for a first time builder?
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 1:18 PM Post #207 of 11,048

Doc B.

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Here's a few suggestions:
 
Plan on taking your time. Most kits that are assembled in a hurry end up with something mis-wired or with a bad solder joint somewhere, that might keep the amp from working the first time, or might create a failure a week or a month down the road. One can build this kit in an evening with some dedication and a good espresso, but a more reasonable (and enjoyable) time frame is to consider the build something to be done over a couple of evenings or on a weekend. A lot of folks end up with a sort of "post-build'em depression" once the kit is done, and typically the second thing they build is done at a more leisurely pace in order the savor the actual process of creation.
 
Good tools always make the job more pleasant. A good solder station costs more than a cheapo Radio Shack soldering iron, but it will work better. Based on my experiences soldering equipment together over the past 16 years I would say something on the order of 1000 times better. A good Weller or Hakko can cost under $100 and is worth its weight in gold when you get to those particularly tricky soldering bits. The most popular solution, for good reason, is to buy a Hakko 936. You will probably not need another iron for the rest of your life. Used solder stations are usually a reasonable purchase if you can make sure they work and the tip is in good shape. If you get a Radio Shack iron the tip will be ready for the garbage can when you are done with your first kit - if it makes it all the way to the end.
 
A magnifier will save you lots of headaches. Use it to examine every solder joint. Don't let some sort of goofy notion that only old farts need a magnifier keep you from using one. I've shown more than one under 40 yo guy a solder joint that wasn't right through my flip down magnifiers (chicks really dig me when I wear them) that he didn't catch with his naked eye. Same goes for a good work light. Makes the experience much more pleasant.
 
Good wire cutters like Weller (Cooper Tool) side cutters are a joy to use, and I like the "automatic" style wire strippers that have little jaws that come together and jaws that pull the wire out from the insulation as you squeeze the handles. Once again, it is hard to be certain that the Radio Shack equivalents will even make it all the way through the build without breaking.
 
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 5:08 PM Post #208 of 11,048

ironbut

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Quote:
 
 
A magnifier will save you lots of headaches. Use it to examine every solder joint. Don't let some sort of goofy notion that only old farts need a magnifier keep you from using one. I've shown more than one under 40 yo guy a solder joint that wasn't right through my flip down magnifiers (chicks really dig me when I wear them) that he didn't catch with his naked eye. Same goes for a good work light. Makes the experience much more pleasant.
 
 
 
 

 
Best advice ever! I got a pair of flip downs a couple of years ago on Doc's advice and man,.. what a difference these guys make (at least to my 50+ year old eyes)!
Not just for soldering but have you ever tried to remove a metal splinter? You know, the ones that get lodged in a pore of your finger then you grab something and it gets pushed in?
Well, finding the end of these and getting a pair of tweezers on it is a breeze with my flip downs.
Also great for reading that tiny printing on tiny stuff and doing neurosurgery on your sisters cat (just kidding).
 
I bought these and I'm happy with them but there are certainly cheaper ones and maybe Doc and others can chime in on what they've got.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Visor-Bausch-Lomb-Lenses/dp/B003E6OJ9U/ref=sr_1_76?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1279313719&sr=1-76
 
 
Jul 17, 2010 at 1:07 PM Post #210 of 11,048

Armaegis

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Hmm, I got a pair of Sextetts coming in but didn't realize they were 600 ohm, so this kit looks like just the thing I'd need (argh, this hobby feeds itself!)
 
Has anyone tried this with Orthos? I've been thinking of getting the Fostex T50RP from my local music shop, which are only 50 ohm.
 

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