Calling All "Vintage" Integrated/Receiver Owners
Aug 16, 2012 at 1:05 PM Post #5,686 of 19,143
i don't know much about either one, but i have heard some of the old Kenny's and they are all very good.  and at 50 bucks you really can't go wrong if it works. 
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 1:16 PM Post #5,687 of 19,143
Quote:
Any thoughts/opinions on a Kenwood KR-6060 for ~$50 or a Sony STR-7065 for $140?
Are these units well regarded and prices reasonable. Not much here on Headfi, but the Sony seems well thought of and both prices seem pretty reasonable to me.
Thanks.


Both great units. The Sony was TOTL for it's model line and is build like a tank. It's from around 1974. Only info I could find on the Kenwood is 65 watts per channel but I am not 100%. If the Kenwood is in clean shape and both work fine I would pick the Kenwood.
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 7:01 PM Post #5,688 of 19,143
i don't know much about either one, but i have heard some of the old Kenny's and they are all very good.  and at 50 bucks you really can't go wrong if it works. 

Both great units. The Sony was TOTL for it's model line and is build like a tank. It's from around 1974. Only info I could find on the Kenwood is 65 watts per channel but I am not 100%. If the Kenwood is in clean shape and both work fine I would pick the Kenwood.


Thanks guys, really appreciate the comments. The were from two different sellers and I was able to meet the Kenwood seller this afternoon and bought that for $50. Pretty great condition and just hooked up some cheap speakers to verify it works, which it does - except A+B output option for some reason doesn't output on either A or B even though each of A and B outputs independently - I suppose I could DeOx the knob, though not a whole lot of scratchiness on the knobs in general. Checked offsets and L is under 10mV, but right is a little marginal at 35-38mV. So little out there on this unit that it may be a bit of a struggle to find out how to tweak the offset down on the right channel, but can run it like this and still be okay I think.

Here are some pics:




Will try these out with speaker taps on my Hifimans in a bit. (The back says 4-16ohm speaker range, but my understanding was that as long as it's not a tube amp, I could go higher without a problem, so I'm assuming I'm safe.)
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 7:16 PM Post #5,689 of 19,143
Any HD800 users here? I am thinking about getting one, but will only get one if it will synergize well with my receivers Pioneer sx 1010 and Sansui G7000. thanks
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 7:30 PM Post #5,690 of 19,143
Quote:
Thanks guys, really appreciate the comments. The were from two different sellers and I was able to meet the Kenwood seller this afternoon and bought that for $50. Pretty great condition and just hooked up some cheap speakers to verify it works, which it does - except A+B output option for some reason doesn't output on either A or B even though each of A and B outputs independently - I suppose I could DeOx the knob, though not a whole lot of scratchiness on the knobs in general. Checked offsets and L is under 10mV, but right is a little marginal at 35-38mV. So little out there on this unit that it may be a bit of a struggle to find out how to tweak the offset down on the right channel, but can run it like this and still be okay I think.
Here are some pics:



Will try these out with speaker taps on my Hifimans in a bit. (The back says 4-16ohm speaker range, but my understanding was that as long as it's not a tube amp, I could go higher without a problem, so I'm assuming I'm safe.)

Nice deal! Here is some info on DC offset. http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 8:08 PM Post #5,691 of 19,143
Quote:
Thanks guys, really appreciate the comments. The were from two different sellers and I was able to meet the Kenwood seller this afternoon and bought that for $50. Pretty great condition and just hooked up some cheap speakers to verify it works, which it does - except A+B output option for some reason doesn't output on either A or B even though each of A and B outputs independently - I suppose I could DeOx the knob, though not a whole lot of scratchiness on the knobs in general. Checked offsets and L is under 10mV, but right is a little marginal at 35-38mV. So little out there on this unit that it may be a bit of a struggle to find out how to tweak the offset down on the right channel, but can run it like this and still be okay I think.
Here are some pics:



Will try these out with speaker taps on my Hifimans in a bit. (The back says 4-16ohm speaker range, but my understanding was that as long as it's not a tube amp, I could go higher without a problem, so I'm assuming I'm safe.)

 
 
35-38 mV is not too bad.  If it sounds good and is not running noticeably hotter on the side with the higher offset, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Aug 16, 2012 at 10:14 PM Post #5,692 of 19,143
Fantastic looking unit you got there captouch.
Heck of a score!
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 1:48 AM Post #5,693 of 19,143
Terrible pictures but I got a Sansui 9090 for free. Haven't listened through speakers yet but there is a very audible electrical hum through the headphones and the receiver gets really hot on the metal parts. How hot should it be? I used an infrared thermometer and read about 115F.
 

 
 
Also, the lights will only light up if the selector switch is between aux and am settings.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 1:51 AM Post #5,694 of 19,143
Quote:
Terrible pictures but I got a Sansui 9090 for free. Haven't listened through speakers yet but there is a very audible electrical hum through the headphones and the receiver gets really hot on the metal parts. How hot should it be?
 

 
 
Also, the lights will only light up if the selector switch is between aux and am settings.

Get it checked out before you use it. Sounds like you may have a short somewhere. Worth fixing though, definitely.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 5:13 AM Post #5,695 of 19,143
Does anyone have experience with a Pioneer 120w A88X. It's from 1985 with dual mono and 3 transformers. according to seller it's in good condition. Does it does it sound like a good HE-6 amp, better than say a new PM6004 Marantz? I put in a bid for 250$.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 11:05 AM Post #5,696 of 19,143
Get it checked out before you use it. Sounds like you may have a short somewhere. Worth fixing though, definitely.


Agree completely. Something definitely is wrong, but since you got it free, it for sure is worth spending a little to get it working. 9090DBs are going for $500-900 on eBay these days depending on condition.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 11:22 AM Post #5,697 of 19,143
Quote:
Terrible pictures but I got a Sansui 9090 for free. Haven't listened through speakers yet but there is a very audible electrical hum through the headphones and the receiver gets really hot on the metal parts. How hot should it be? I used an infrared thermometer and read about 115F.
 

 
 
Also, the lights will only light up if the selector switch is between aux and am settings.

9090 is  a beast and worth fixing. Unplug all inputs to receiver, put input to AUX, turn volume to 0 and loudness off. Make sure speakers A are selected only. CAREFULLY with a multi-meter, put the red lead on the right speakers + and black lead on the right speakers -. Report back on the voltage. Should be 50mv or less. I have a feeling you have much much higher reading. And do not hook up speakers until you have done this-could blow them.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 7:01 PM Post #5,698 of 19,143
Here's a picture of the inside of the KR-6060 I just picked up.  The picture is big, so don't click on it unless you want to see a 12MP image.  
redface.gif

 

 
While I have it open, I was going to DeOxit a bit, but I haven't done these two way toggle switches.  Do I spray in the single hole in the metal on the bottom/horizontal surface, or the two black holes on the vertical?
 

 
And for the Power Dial (switches between Off, Phones, A, B, A+B), do I spray in the front gold portion (near the front of the receiver), or the gray plastic box nearer to the inside of the receiver where the power is connected?
 

 
Newbie questions, but I just don't want to spray in the wrong area and damage something.  Thanks.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 7:19 PM Post #5,699 of 19,143
Quote:
Here's a picture of the inside of the KR-6060 I just picked up.  The picture is big, so don't click on it unless you want to see a 12MP image.  
redface.gif

 

 
While I have it open, I was going to DeOxit a bit, but I haven't done these two way toggle switches.  Do I spray in the single hole in the metal on the bottom/horizontal surface, or the two black holes on the vertical?
 

 
And for the Power Dial (switches between Off, Phones, A, B, A+B), do I spray in the front gold portion (near the front of the receiver), or the gray plastic box nearer to the inside of the receiver where the power is connected?
 

 
Newbie questions, but I just don't want to spray in the wrong area and damage something.  Thanks.

Spray in both when in doubt but you want to spray where you have metal to metal contact. Hard to tell with pictures. I usually spray  short blasts in the switch holes and work them back and forth 10-20x. Then wait 5 minutes and power up.
 
Aug 17, 2012 at 8:33 PM Post #5,700 of 19,143
Uh-oh, looks like my Kenwood KR-6060 has a problem.  Maybe that's why they sold it.  
confused.gif

 
First noticed it when I powered it up and it was plugged into the same power conditioner as the rest of my system.  My other components were powered on and I was playing a CD through my other amp.  
 
When I powered up the Kenwood, the display lights flickered and while they were flickering, static/power (imagine Frankenstein getting his energizing jolts) sounds came out through my speakers (powered by the other amp) (independent of the pre-amp volume control).  Must have been feeding back thorough the power conditioner???  
 
Once the Kenwood calms down (display lights steady and relay noise clicks), static/power sounds go away.
 
Moved it to another outlet and tried several times to power up the Kenwood.  It always goes through this unstable period where lights are flickering (not sure what it's doing to the outlet since nothing else is plugged into the same outlet this time).  Variable amount of time, but the lights eventually go steady, but I did see it go back into the unsteady state with the lights going back into the unsteady/flickering state before becoming steady again.  Needless to say, I don't feel safe plugging anything into it at this point.
 
Maybe the power supply/transformer?  Any other ideas (possibly loose connections to check) and thoughts whether such power-related problems are worth fixing or too major to be worthwhile?
 
Anyone know anyone in the Bay Area (San Jose, etc) who might be able to take a look and diagnose?
 
Thanks.  
frown.gif

 

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